Prior to reading the sticky up top, I purchased from a large store one of those Jiffy 72 plant starter kits. So far so good though, with only the peppers being pretty late, but finally starting to show signs of sprouting. It was covered with the dome until the first seedlings showed, then the dome was removed. Only in the last couple days did the tray see any direct sunlight.
My main question, is what are the first "true leaves". They are not the ones I see in the picture below? Also, I'm trying to gauge how big they should be before putting them in the ground. I will not be "uppotting". I just don't have the room. My plan is to, at the appropriate time (which I gather will be at different times for each variety) take them outside for a few hours a day in the shade, then some sun, then put them in the ground. But I don't want to do it too early.
We have flurries (really?) tonight, and frost tomorrow night, and then hopefully that silliness ends. So if you could, please check out the picture below and let me know how things are advancing, what the heck true leaves are, and any other little tips that might help me with my specific situation. Thanks!!!
From left to right, they are: Vorlon Tomato, Black Giant tomato, Purple beauty pepper, Emerald Giant pepper, Toro Giallo pepper, Cucumber marketmore 76, Carrot Chantenay Red Core, Evergreen bunch, red torpedo, and long white onions, and an extra row each of Vorlon and Emerald Giant.
[img]https://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j439/Jeffross1968/Garden/103_1316.jpg[/img][/img]
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- Location: Western NC Zone 6b
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- Senior Member
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- Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2011 11:00 pm
- Location: Western NC Zone 6b
The first true leaves are ones that actually look like the plant they are going to be....Your tomatoes do not have them yet. do you have a light you can put above these plants? They are beginning to look a bit leggy, which means they need more light...directly above them. I always uppot, as the plants should be good size before you just plant them outside, especially the tomatoes. They also need the nutrients that good soil will give them, the peat pods have no nutrients and once those true leaves form, the need food. What zone do you live in? When is your last frost date? If you had flurries the other night, I'm guessing you still have 3-4 weeks before you can plant in the ground. The cucumbers are usually just planted directly in the soil, after last frost. They grow really fast. I'm sure other members will come along and answer your questions more thoroughly.
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I look to be in 6b/7a, from the map I was looking at. Smoky Mountains, NC, about 40 miles south of Asheville. We are expecting flurries tonight, and "frost" tomorrow, but our average last freeze date is April 10th. So this is coming a little late. I think they consider the safe plant date to be mother's day.
I was thinking those cucumbers are ready to plant, but of course, now, I'm going to have to wait a few days no matter what.
I don't know if there is a light I can put over them. Any light will work? I guess I could give them a heat lamp (one we use for our chick brooder), but I'm guessing it would have to be pretty far above it to not burn them.
I was thinking those cucumbers are ready to plant, but of course, now, I'm going to have to wait a few days no matter what.
I don't know if there is a light I can put over them. Any light will work? I guess I could give them a heat lamp (one we use for our chick brooder), but I'm guessing it would have to be pretty far above it to not burn them.
- applestar
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You can fit the chick lamp with a 26w daylight cfl bulb. I take the bulb cage off so I can put the light bulb really close to the plants.
You don't really want the roots to try to grow through those netting and it's best to remove or make slits in them before planting. As it is, if you don't Uppot, the neighboring plant roots will grow into eachother's pods.
You don't really want the roots to try to grow through those netting and it's best to remove or make slits in them before planting. As it is, if you don't Uppot, the neighboring plant roots will grow into eachother's pods.
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- Location: Western NC Zone 6b
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I know I'm getting picky here, but I'm trying to use what I have on hand. I was wondering if one of those security motion lights would work. It has spots for 2 bulbs, and I can fit a 13 watt cfl in each. Will 2 13's equal a 26? LOL, I know...
I actually have 20 watt cfls, but they won't fit into the bulb socket.
If that will work, how high above the plants should I put them, and should I give them some darkness every night as well?
I actually have 20 watt cfls, but they won't fit into the bulb socket.
If that will work, how high above the plants should I put them, and should I give them some darkness every night as well?
- rainbowgardener
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