starting seeds too early?
I was reading about when to start certain seeds, and for instance the thing I read said tomato seeds 6 weeks before last frost. What is the big problem with starting tomatoes 8 weeks before last frost? Wouldn't they just be larger and stronger when time to set them out?
I think it's a matter of not wanting to disturb their root system after a matter of time. it can stunt the growth/fruiting of the plants. I made the mistake of starting some squashes, watermelons and pumpkins early, but have to just help them hang on until I can get them out safely into the garden.dtlove129 wrote:I was reading about when to start certain seeds, and for instance the thing I read said tomato seeds 6 weeks before last frost. What is the big problem with starting tomatoes 8 weeks before last frost? Wouldn't they just be larger and stronger when time to set them out?
I got tricked by the warmer weather-- then we got a snow storm! So, lesson learned, it's best to just start them around regular planting time
- rainbowgardener
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Well, I think the seed packets usually say 6-8 wks ahead of average last frost date. I always start mine about 8 weeks ahead. And I think the last actual frost is tending to come ahead of the average these days.
But I did learn my lesson about starting too early. One year I thought if starting them mid - Feb is good (8 wks ahead of my av last frost), wouldn't starting them end of Jan be better? The answer is no. They get too big, roots get too crowded in the little pots, so you should up-pot them into bigger pots. But then I don't have room under my lights for big plants in big pots (and it's still too cold to put them out). So then I try putting them in front of a window, but that's not nearly enough light for them and they get all leggy and spindly. Then those spindly stems snap in half, if you try moving the plants in and out for hardening and/or they get caught by wind... Altogether a mess.
This year I actually disciplined myself to wait until 7.5 weeks ahead of av last frost date!
It's hard because all these southerners here start talking about putting their tomato plants in the ground! 
But I did learn my lesson about starting too early. One year I thought if starting them mid - Feb is good (8 wks ahead of my av last frost), wouldn't starting them end of Jan be better? The answer is no. They get too big, roots get too crowded in the little pots, so you should up-pot them into bigger pots. But then I don't have room under my lights for big plants in big pots (and it's still too cold to put them out). So then I try putting them in front of a window, but that's not nearly enough light for them and they get all leggy and spindly. Then those spindly stems snap in half, if you try moving the plants in and out for hardening and/or they get caught by wind... Altogether a mess.
This year I actually disciplined myself to wait until 7.5 weeks ahead of av last frost date!


+1 It does get messy, in and out. But my extensions says March for transplanting outdoors- but I know its still too early due to the effects of marine layer ( close to the coast).rainbowgardener wrote: But then I don't have room under my lights for big plants in big pots (and it's still too cold to put them out). So then I try putting them in front of a window, but that's not nearly enough light for them and they get all leggy and spindly. Then those spindly stems snap in half, if you try moving the plants in and out for hardening and/or they get caught by wind... Altogether a mess.
It's hard because all these southerners here start talking about putting their tomato plants in the ground!
oh, and I've learned my lesson, but it was a test to learn how to start seeds. I started in January, and will have 1 plant in ground next week- its getting hardened as we speak

we start ours way more than 8 weeks before our last frost. they go from 200 cell trays to cup sized pots. then while we are still having the occasional frost but temps are above 25f we put them out under mini hoop tunnels. this keeps them happy in temps down to 25. they get a month or so of growth before temps are warm enough to take the tunnels off completely.
we usually have ripe tomatoes at least a month before everyone else locally. usually more.
we usually have ripe tomatoes at least a month before everyone else locally. usually more.
- hendi_alex
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As posted earlier, I started my earliest tomatoes in mid December. The plants are now over two feet tall, have a few clusters of tomatoes set, and are starting to bloom like crazy. My plants no matter how early they are started, never slow down from pot to in the ground. So if a person wants to beat the season, depending upon how long he/she wants to pamper the plants, start as early as you wish. Just be sure to gradually size the pots up. My largest plants are in 3 gallon pots and that will hold them nicely until planting time, the third week in April. I'm in zone 8 but bordering on zone 7. I'll include a photo update in a few days.
they go in the ground where they will be growing permanently. if they need water they either get watered by hand by simply lifting up one side of the mini hoop tunnel. keep in mind this is only for my semi conventional garden. forest garden/polyculture plants get planted later or have cloches( starting with 1 gallon glass jugs with bottoms cut off) and then if they need it I have a few of the big 5 gallon water jugs with the bottoms cut off.When you say you put them out under mini hoops, are they still in their cup sized pots or in the ground? How do you water them?
really though its usually raining and the rain gets them because all the rows are on terraces, the pathway of the terrace collects water for the plants under each tunnel. usually I don't water at all.
- gixxerific
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- gixxerific
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But really we are close by each other in certain terms. I will be starting mine next weekend, maybe the following. That may be late for me for my regular planting. I will be planting in succesion, mainly becuase I have too many to start at one time. But it is still a good idea for a later harvest.
Good luck
Dono
Good luck
Dono
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This is the time of the year that it is most difficult to read these gardening posts. Those of you in warmer climes get all of us "still freezing, snowy" Vermont gardeners excited about planting and we plant our seeds too early. We know we shouldn't but maybe this spring will be different and things can go in super early. It used to be easier to resist the temptation but now, those of you already talking about putting your damn tomatoes in the soil have screwed things up. I made a promise to myself last spring that I wouldn't start the tomatoes until the first of April come hell or high water. I think it's beginning to rain pretty hard!
(On a happier note, the spinach I planted last September and enjoyed through much of the fall survived our winter. My wife and I have had two delicious meals, the first being Feb 29, with many more to follow. I've gardened for 50 years and it's the first time I tried a fall planting of spinach and lettuce. I guess you can teach an old dog new tricks.)
(On a happier note, the spinach I planted last September and enjoyed through much of the fall survived our winter. My wife and I have had two delicious meals, the first being Feb 29, with many more to follow. I've gardened for 50 years and it's the first time I tried a fall planting of spinach and lettuce. I guess you can teach an old dog new tricks.)
- hendi_alex
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Largest plants were seeded in mid December. They have clusters of tomatoes now. The next batch of plants were seeded in mid January. The smallest plants were seeded in mid February. I'll plant a few more tomato seeds in the middle of this month and another batch in the middle of April. Will plant more seeds or will do stem cuttings in May. Those will be primary plants for fall harvest. With luck will be able to keep a continuous harvest from mid to late April through mid November, with tomatoes lasting into December.
Right now all of the plants can be contained in two cold frames of maybe 22-25 square feet. By the time the next group of plants get potted up to one gallon or three gallon pots, the weather should be settled enough for plants to stay out overnight, but will be brought in any time that temperatures drop below 40 degrees.
This cold frame is about 18 inches tall on the back side. The only reason the plants are in it is to protect a bit from the wind which has been pretty strong recently.
[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7042/6969544645_07bbcd7f6c_o.jpg[/img]
This cold frame is only about 14 inches at the back. All of these plants were seeded in January or February.
Home grown transplants are most tomatoes. Also have egg plant, sweet bells, jalapeno, and most recent seed starts, not in photo, are cucumbers, squash, and zucchini.
[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/6969544921_085408bfd6_o.jpg[/img]
Right now all of the plants can be contained in two cold frames of maybe 22-25 square feet. By the time the next group of plants get potted up to one gallon or three gallon pots, the weather should be settled enough for plants to stay out overnight, but will be brought in any time that temperatures drop below 40 degrees.
This cold frame is about 18 inches tall on the back side. The only reason the plants are in it is to protect a bit from the wind which has been pretty strong recently.
[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7042/6969544645_07bbcd7f6c_o.jpg[/img]
This cold frame is only about 14 inches at the back. All of these plants were seeded in January or February.
Home grown transplants are most tomatoes. Also have egg plant, sweet bells, jalapeno, and most recent seed starts, not in photo, are cucumbers, squash, and zucchini.
[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/6969544921_085408bfd6_o.jpg[/img]
- rainbowgardener
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- hendi_alex
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The weather has been especially forgiving this year, which has been nearly absent any real winter temperatures. I've been able to place the plants outside most days since early January. In a typical year we have week long, or longer periods in January and February when the plants are housebound. This years, it wouldn't surprise me if some of the plants get moved into the ground in early April, versus our usual starting date of April 21st or so.