You'll probably at least want to use some florescent lights - 1 or 2 cheap 4 foot fixtures may do the trick depending on how much you're plating.lovely_star wrote: Hey guys I plan on starting my seeds indoors this weekend. I've been researching seed starting on the forum and I'm wondering if I will need grow lights? None of the gardening books I've read so far mention anything about grow lights. I thought I'd just sit seedlings in a sunny area. Apparently this might not be enough. I plan on starting my cabbage, tomato, lettuce, celery, radicchio, kale, peppers, rosemary, herbs (basil, parsley, oregano, thyme) broccoli, flowers (marigold, lavender, petunias). Do all of them need grow lights?
- ThePepperSeed
- Cool Member
- Posts: 64
- Joined: Thu Dec 30, 2010 12:26 pm
- Location: Midwest
-
- Full Member
- Posts: 50
- Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2011 2:02 pm
- Location: Long Island, NY Zone 7B
Is there a cheap way to do this? I'm already way over budget with starting this garden. I've been to growers sights and the lights are pretty expensive.ThePepperSeed wrote:You'll probably at least want to use some florescent lights - 1 or 2 cheap 4 foot fixtures may do the trick depending on how much you're plating.lovely_star wrote: Hey guys I plan on starting my seeds indoors this weekend. I've been researching seed starting on the forum and I'm wondering if I will need grow lights? None of the gardening books I've read so far mention anything about grow lights. I thought I'd just sit seedlings in a sunny area. Apparently this might not be enough. I plan on starting my cabbage, tomato, lettuce, celery, radicchio, kale, peppers, rosemary, herbs (basil, parsley, oregano, thyme) broccoli, flowers (marigold, lavender, petunias). Do all of them need grow lights?
I just expanded my lights for seedlings last week, it's not expensive at all.
Go to your local big box store, pick up the light ballast (fixture) for 2 flourescent lights - Lowes had one for $9 and it included hooks and two short chains.
Pick up a pair of fluorescent lights of the type that your ballast uses (in my case they were T12 bulbs) - around $5-8. Look for bulbs with the highest light output in your price range - the biggest number listed next to lumens. If you buy the bulbs in the 10-packs they're often cheaper per bulb, but if you need to spend less money just get the 2-pack for your ballast.
DON'T buy the specialty grow lamps or greenhouse lights they try to sell you, I have done just fine with any old type of fluorescent with high intensity.
Go to your local big box store, pick up the light ballast (fixture) for 2 flourescent lights - Lowes had one for $9 and it included hooks and two short chains.
Pick up a pair of fluorescent lights of the type that your ballast uses (in my case they were T12 bulbs) - around $5-8. Look for bulbs with the highest light output in your price range - the biggest number listed next to lumens. If you buy the bulbs in the 10-packs they're often cheaper per bulb, but if you need to spend less money just get the 2-pack for your ballast.
DON'T buy the specialty grow lamps or greenhouse lights they try to sell you, I have done just fine with any old type of fluorescent with high intensity.
-
- Full Member
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2011 4:46 am
- Location: Wolverhampton UK
I really see this as a non problem. The plants could not care less where they grew just as long as they can get nutrients, water, carbon dioxide and light.
Raised beds are just important to human beings because they make gardening easier on the back. You can reach across and till the soil more easily. But it is neither here not there for the plants.
Raised beds are just important to human beings because they make gardening easier on the back. You can reach across and till the soil more easily. But it is neither here not there for the plants.
- rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
- gixxerific
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 5889
- Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2009 5:42 pm
- Location: Wentzville, MO (Just West oF St. Louis) Zone 5B
If I may RBGrainbowgardener wrote:well yes and no. My soil (where I have any) is hard clay and rock. I would have to work very hard at amending it to make it as conducive to plants as the nice loose enriched topsoil in my raised beds and to make it drain. It does make a difference to the plants.

I have, as I said, regular beds. They are theoretically not raised beds due to them not having official sides. But than again they are in theory raised beds due to all the hard work I have done amending them. I have added so much manure and compost to them they are really getting to be quite impressive. You can tell exactly where my additions have come in from year to year. The first year section is something you would be amazed with I know I am. The ground I started with and what I have now is so far from the original. There is no need for tilling you can just dig your hand in and you are good to go.
As you said though this is a work in progress but this could be a great year and if not this one soon my garden will be as great as my last garden.
So my question just what exactly is a raised bed. You can see my soil level is raised it is being held in somewhat by my fencing. So essentially I have a raised bed but with mine comes the problem of compaction since I don't have separate beds that I can walk around and not on. So mine is not perfect but it will grow if I can keep the bugs and disease out of it this year.
Just thinking aloud here.

-
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 6113
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:43 pm
- rainbowgardener
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 25279
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
- Location: TN/GA 7b
Or I would say
raised rows - Augmenting the native soil by adding on to it, rather than tilling stuff in, often by putting the topsoil from the paths between onto the rows as well as soil amendments. Not boxed, may only be a little deeper than native soil, rows can be as long as the amount of room you have, though usually still no more than 3-4' wide for reaching in to, sometimes narrower than that.
raised beds - Framed /boxed in beds. Can be as deep as you want/ need them to be, usually 3-4' wide and anywhere from 4 -10' long (construction and materials tending to limit the length). Framed in wood, concrete, brick, or whatever durable material is handy.
I think most of the benefits that have been noted for raised beds apply to raised rows. If I had more land to garden that's what I would do.
raised rows - Augmenting the native soil by adding on to it, rather than tilling stuff in, often by putting the topsoil from the paths between onto the rows as well as soil amendments. Not boxed, may only be a little deeper than native soil, rows can be as long as the amount of room you have, though usually still no more than 3-4' wide for reaching in to, sometimes narrower than that.
raised beds - Framed /boxed in beds. Can be as deep as you want/ need them to be, usually 3-4' wide and anywhere from 4 -10' long (construction and materials tending to limit the length). Framed in wood, concrete, brick, or whatever durable material is handy.
I think most of the benefits that have been noted for raised beds apply to raised rows. If I had more land to garden that's what I would do.
-
- Mod
- Posts: 7491
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 9:17 pm
- Location: Colchester, CT
-
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 6113
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:43 pm
-
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 6113
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:43 pm
-
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 6113
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:43 pm
-
- Mod
- Posts: 7491
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 9:17 pm
- Location: Colchester, CT
-
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 6113
- Joined: Sun Mar 28, 2010 11:43 pm
- Tilde
- Green Thumb
- Posts: 344
- Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2011 1:56 pm
- Location: Hurry-Cane, Florida USDA10/SZ25
A very succint summation. Thank you.quiltbea wrote:You can plant tomatoes, even the indeterminate that continue to grow, in a one-sqaure-foot spacing in a raised bed if you stake it or use strings to twist the tomato up its length.
Spacing:
1 plant per square foot
broccoli, brussels sprout, cabbage, cauliflower, eggplant, head lettuce, tomato, peppers,
4 per square foot:
leaf lettuce, parsley, Swiss chard, turnip,
9 per sq foot:
bush beans, spinach
16 per sq foot:
beets, carrots, radishes, leeks, onions,
If you trellis along the north side of your boxes:
cukes are 4 per sq foot,
melons are 4 per sq foot,
peas and pole beans are 8 per sq ft in two rows side by side planted 3" apart.
summer squash 3 in a space 4 ft long by 1 ft wide.
zucchini which does not vine takes 9 sq ft (3 across and 3 wide)
OT: I used to have boxed beds (the neighbors' trees loved it, I've pulled up lots of volunteer trees and shared them with friends/family) and now I'm sqft in sqft containers.
-
- Mod
- Posts: 7491
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 9:17 pm
- Location: Colchester, CT
Well I was thinking, if I have raised beds with a lot of compost wouldn't that eventually spread below the raised bed and give nutrients to the rest of the backyard? One reason I might do raised beds is to remember what I plant where, so that I can make sure to do my best attempt at crop rotation 
^ will need to research that a bit better first though

^ will need to research that a bit better first though