Ideally it is best to rotate crops by families on a 4 year rotation. So, having 4 beds. However, the reality is that most of us don't have that kind of space. Sometimes things grow best in one spot over another. Even the commercial growers monocrop the same soil year after year. That is also why they spend so much on pest control because growing the same crop year after year keeps pests and disease around.
If you had no issues you can grow tomatoes in the same place for years.
I did have an issue with tomato yellow curl virus. I think the seed was infected. Since the disease is spread by whiteflies moving the tomatoes over a few feet would not have made much of a difference so I did not grow tomatoes for three years to make sure it would not spread. There are very few resistant cultivars and they did not taste that good. Whiteflies are a cyclical problem and get bad every couple of years.
It is always a good idea to make sure you add the organic matter and fertilizer to get the healthiest plants. I grow most of my tomatoes in pots and save the space in my small garden for plants that can take closer spacing. I take the potting soil out and use it in the yard or have it sterilized and remix it. I use MG potting soil for the tomatoes in pots.
You are rotating with lettuce so it does get a break, but it would be better if you had multiple beds and and rotate from bed to bed. I you rotate, you want to do it with another family of plants so you would not rotate tomatoes with peppers or eggplant. Ideally you would use a plant family with different attributes like ones that don't share the same pests or a high feeder with low feeders. I would also test the soil every three or four years just to check on the balance of fertility especially if you are doing in ground planting and adjust your fertilizer and manure as required.
All my plots are very high or extreme in calcium phos, potassium. Two are alkaline pH 7.4 and 7.8 the other is very high in Nitrogen (based on the size of the plants), the most extreme in phosphorus >2000 ppm, and slightly acidic at ph 6.4.
I have changed my fertilizer. I don't add any more chicken manure anywhere ( it would raise the pH another half point) The compost tested at a pH of 7.8 so I don't ever need to lime anything. If I use manure, I use composted steer manure. I have done three tests and the phosphorus requirement for the plants is 37 ppm; the lowest the phos has gotten in one plot only was 250, the other plots are virtually unchanged. So, I don't need to add phosphorus for years except to the potted plants. All I need is sulfur to bring down the alkaline pH and nitrogen. I still tend to over use the nitrogen so
I rotate corn which is a high nitrogen feeder with Asian greens which I use as a scavenger crop. I only add compost between the two and the cabbages will scavenge the leftover nitrogen from the corn.
I sometimes rotate some of the tomato pots with beans and peas. That is what I am doing now. One of my three pots has beans and peas and two have tomatoes.
I plant a variety of plants and I plant nectar and pollen plants to attract pollinators and beneficial insects and I don't plant a lot of any one plant so that helps with insect problems so I don't have to use much in the way of insect control. I do have to use a lot of slug bait because I don't have toads or chickens and I have a wet yard. I do use fungicides in humid weather. I scout plants regularly and try to take care of problems early and some problems are seasonal so I know to watch out for those.