Oh yes, very heated. I would be setting myself up for further failure without that. When I say failure I mean more odds not in my favor.!potatoes! wrote:finished = heated, i hope....
Great info. Exactly what I needed to hear! My first thoughts were I was going to have to spend some decent money but know I'll up my budget a bit. My goal is to give the best first shot I can so there's no "what if".Dillbert wrote:I had a south facing single glass pane greenhouse.
I had fluorescent lights at head level+
results: not good except for spinach, lettuce - i.e. leaf crops.
tomatoes, beans, cukes - did not do well.
plants get their energy to grown, blossom, fruit from light.
what the human eyeball perceives as "good / strong light" does not cut the mustard in the plant world.
you'll find mention of hanging lights 2-3 inches over the tops of plants.
problem: light energy diminishes by the square of the distance.
so light energy at 4 inches is 25% of light energy from two inches.
six inches? one ninth.
my experience with "the best natural light available" is dismal - winter light is just not strong enough for most of the flowering / fruiting vegetables.
one approach is hanging the light horizontal above and close to the plants.
another approach is a small "box" with a plant-in-pot and vertical (fluorescent) tubes.
the whole deal revolves around how much trouble and expense one is willing to undergo to get a red tomato in February.
and doing it "spot on 100%" isn't cheap.
fluorescent / incandescent / halide / sodium LP&HP l/ LED ights - all that stuff is readily available.
however, hanging a four ft long 'shop light' over 2-3 tomato plants is likely not to work out in a stellar fashion - with or without a window in the basement.
if one is intent on duplicating the strength of summer sunlight, it's not entirely simple. a mix of 50-50 warm white and cool white fluorescent bulbs will get you very close in terms of spectrum, but spectrum and "light energy delivered to the leaf" are two totally different issues.