Dalicea34
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Location: Florida

My New Serissa Bonzai losing some leaves

:? I just got this Serissa bonsai and I just removed the layer of rock pebbles so I could check the soil to make sure it was moist after I had bottom dish watered it today because it had dropped some leaves this morning. I need some helpful advice in caring and watering my Serissa Bonzai. Thanks,Dalicea34 :)

opabinia51
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Have you totally removed the glued rock mixture? If not, do that first.

Second, give the stickies at the top of the forum a read on watering.

ynot
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Dalice,

Here is everything you need to know about watering your bonsai.

I think this article should be required reading for all bonsai owners. https://www.bonsai4me.com/Basics/Basics_Watering.html

A care sheet about Serrisa: https://www.bonsai4me.com/SpeciesGuide/Serissa.html

More details please [It's location, How long you've had it, How long it has been losing leaves, A bit of info about your approach wrt watering...etc etc...]

Pictures are allways helpful also :)

Also, What is 'bottom dish watering'?

Here is some reading for you about bonsai from two excellent and experienced sources:

https://www.evergreengardenworks.com/articles.htm

https://www.bonsai4me.com/Basics.html

good luck
ynot
Last edited by ynot on Thu Nov 30, 2006 2:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Dalicea34
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Location: Florida

positve response after removal of glued rock mixture

opabinia51 wrote:Have you totally removed the glued rock mixture? If not, do that first.
I did totally removed the glued mixture gently.

Second, give the stickies at the top of the forum a read on watering.

I checked my bonsai last night to make sure it was moist with checking with a toothpick carefully and it was moist and did not drop leaves this morning so I will not fiddle with the leafs or move it around and definetly I will not place it on my window sill.

MagicDan
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Location: Hilton, NY

Serissa losing leaves

My Serissa has gone thru the same thing you are experiencing. They are a pretty fussy little tree to keep happy! :D

Check my earlier post for some pics and more advice.
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3514&sid=433dfe8e7b2aaeacf131c242f66d3d0c

Dalicea34
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Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Nov 29, 2006 6:00 pm
Location: Florida

Re: Serissa losing leaves

MagicDan wrote:My Serissa has gone thru the same thing you are experiencing. They are a pretty fussy little tree to keep happy! :D

Check my earlier post for some pics and more advice.
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3514&sid=433dfe8e7b2aaeacf131c242f66d3d0c
As for my fussy little tree so far no more dropping leafs. I was wondering if I may need to get humidity tray along with a new pot since the pot that the serissa and ficus is not ceramic but plastic. Could both of those items probably be the factor that caused the leafs drop because I have watered the bonsais.

ynot
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Re: Serissa losing leaves

Dalicea34 wrote:
MagicDan wrote: As for my fussy little tree so far no more dropping leafs. I was wondering if I may need to get humidity tray along with a new pot since the pot that the serissa and ficus is not ceramic but plastic. Could both of those items probably be the factor that caused the leafs drop because I have watered the bonsais.
The pot is not at all a factor.

Your tree is most likely just stressed [Are the leaves turning yellow before they fall off? This could indicate overwatering. ]

Do get a humidity tray but do insure that the drainage holes of the pot are not in contact with the water.

Please do read the links in my previous post.
good luck
ynot

Dalicea34
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Joined: Wed Nov 29, 2006 6:00 pm
Location: Florida

Re: Serissa losing leaves

ynot wrote:
Dalicea34 wrote:
MagicDan wrote: As for my fussy little tree so far no more dropping leafs. I was wondering if I may need to get humidity tray along with a new pot since the pot that the serissa and ficus is not ceramic but plastic. Could both of those items probably be the factor that caused the leafs drop because I have watered the bonsais.
The pot is not at all a factor.

Your tree is most likely just stressed [Are the leaves turning yellow before they fall off? This could indicate overwatering. ]

Do get a humidity tray but do insure that the drainage holes of the pot are not in contact with the water.

Please do read the links in my previous post.
good luck
ynot
Ynot I will be getting the humidity tray possibly today How long do I leave the serissa and my ficus bonsai over the Humidity tray( definately not in contact with h. tray.?. The leafs that had dropped did not turn yellow. As for overwatering prevention I am checking the top of soil and also carefully using a toothpick and so far I know that I do not need to water. Maybe it really needs the humidity tray
to help the Bonsai stay stable and flowering right. :roll:
Thanks Ynot for the helpful info.

ynot
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Re: Serissa losing leaves

Dalicea34 wrote: How long do I leave the serissa and my ficus bonsai over the Humidity tray
All the time, The purpose of the tray is to increase the ambient humidity in the immediate vicinity of the tree.
( definately not in contact with h. tray.?.)
Not exactly.... What I said was insure that the drainage holes are not in contact w/ the water. Meaning there is an airspace between the water and the pot [The height of the feet] so that the pot will not 'wick up' water through the drainage holes.
The leafs that had dropped did not turn yellow. As for overwatering prevention I am checking the top of soil and also carefully using a toothpick and so far I know that I do not need to water.
First, You must check deeper than just the surface [In fact, Go two knuckles deep] over 90% of the volume of the soil is NOT at the soils surface.

Secondly, Even though I see it suggested all the time I do not suggest the toothpick method for these two reasons.

1. Once you have proper bonsai soil (See the sticky) it would not stick to a toothpick at all [or just barely....MAYBE] when it is soaking wet. Now according to that sysem it is time to water....NOT.

Anyone I know of with any experience who has ever suggested anything similar to this describes the process a bit differently:

A. Insert a chopstick {or wooden skewer} vertically into your soil all the way to the bottom of the pot located about halfway between the edge of the pot and the trunk.

B. Leave it there {If you find it unsightly you can cut it to a length 1/2" longer than needed so it is not so visible.}

C. To check to see if your tree needs water simply pull the chopstick out and take note of the color.
Due to the color change you can easily tell where the moisture line is in your soil as moist wood is darker than dry wood. When I replace the chopstick in the soil, I rotate it into a different position by either 45 or 90 degrees. {Still positioned halfway between the tree and pot edge.}

I feel that having the chopstick/skewer living embedded in the soil [in the same conditions as the tree] is a far more accurate and effective way of determining the soils moisture content, As opposed to a quick dip with a toothpick.

I often use this system for a while to get a feel for the new situation when I get a new tree or repot into a different container. Until I get a feel for the weight of the pot when wet/dry.

It is very effective and gives good insight into whats happening in the pot: moisture-wise.
Maybe it really needs the humidity tray to help the Bonsai stay stable and flowering right. :roll:
It needs an appropriate enviroment. Temp, Light [intensity & duration], Water [frequency & amount] , Humdity...etc etc... It's just that easy ;).

Serrissa are pretty random as to when they flower...

[/quote]
Thanks Ynot for the helpful info.[/quote

Your very welcome

ynot

Dalicea34
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Location: Florida

Re: Serissa losing leaves

ynot wrote:
Dalicea34 wrote: How long do I leave the serissa and my ficus bonsai over the Humidity tray
All the time, The purpose of the tray is to increase the ambient humidity in the immediate vicinity of the tree.
( definately not in contact with h. tray.?.)
Not exactly.... What I said was insure that the drainage holes are not in contact w/ the water. Meaning there is an airspace between the water and the pot [The height of the feet] so that the pot will not 'wick up' water through the drainage holes.
The leafs that had dropped did not turn yellow. As for overwatering prevention I am checking the top of soil and also carefully using a toothpick and so far I know that I do not need to water.
First, You must check deeper than just the surface [In fact, Go two knuckles deep] over 90% of the volume of the soil is NOT at the soils surface.

Secondly, Even though I see it suggested all the time I do not suggest the toothpick method for these two reasons.

1. Once you have proper bonsai soil (See the sticky) it would not stick to a toothpick at all [or just barely....MAYBE] when it is soaking wet. Now according to that sysem it is time to water....NOT.

Anyone I know of with any experience who has ever suggested anything similar to this describes the process a bit differently:

A. Insert a chopstick {or wooden skewer} vertically into your soil all the way to the bottom of the pot located about halfway between the edge of the pot and the trunk.

B. Leave it there {If you find it unsightly you can cut it to a length 1/2" longer than needed so it is not so visible.}

C. To check to see if your tree needs water simply pull the chopstick out and take note of the color.
Due to the color change you can easily tell where the moisture line is in your soil as moist wood is darker than dry wood. When I replace the chopstick in the soil, I rotate it into a different position by either 45 or 90 degrees. {Still positioned halfway between the tree and pot edge.}

I feel that having the chopstick/skewer living embedded in the soil [in the same conditions as the tree] is a far more accurate and effective way of determining the soils moisture content, As opposed to a quick dip with a toothpick.

I often use this system for a while to get a feel for the new situation when I get a new tree or repot into a different container. Until I get a feel for the weight of the pot when wet/dry.

It is very effective and gives good insight into whats happening in the pot: moisture-wise.
Maybe it really needs the humidity tray to help the Bonsai stay stable and flowering right. :roll:
It needs an appropriate enviroment. Temp, Light [intensity & duration], Water [frequency & amount] , Humdity...etc etc... It's just that easy ;).

Serrissa are pretty random as to when they flower...
Thanks Ynot for the helpful info.[/quote

Your very welcome

ynot[/quote]

I will be recieving two ceramics pots,bonsai soil, and two humidity trays for my serissa & ficus bonsais. They both dropped two leafs which had gotten alittle brown. I will repot them carefully and hopefully they will not be stressed?

ynot
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I may have missed it or it might not have been mentioned but why are you planning on repotting it at the moment?

If it is having difficulties... Now is not the best time to do that. [Unless it is a dire emergency.]

Repotting is a stresssfull event for a plant in and of itself.

Also I am still curious about what 'bottom-dish watering' is? [Asked in my first post on ths thread.] Can you describe the procedure?

ynot

Dalicea34
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Location: Florida

ynot wrote:I may have missed it or it might not have been mentioned but why are you planning on repotting it at the moment?

If it is having difficulties... Now is not the best time to do that. [Unless it is a dire emergency.]

Repotting is a stresssfull event for a plant in and of itself.

Also I am still curious about what 'bottom-dish watering' is? [Asked in my first post on ths thread.] Can you describe the procedure?

ynot
Maybe I may be using the word repotting wrong when I am changing my bonsai from the plastic pot that only have holes on the bottom but no feet on the bottom of pots to raise the pots from the tray.?it came with to a ceramic bonsai pot because I purchased humidity trays for them to get better results. what I meant by bottom dishwatering was when you put alittle water in to the dish that is placed under the plant pots.
Should I wait on changing the pots?

ynot
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Maybe I may be using the word repotting wrong when I am changing my bonsai from the plastic pot it came with to a ceramic bonsai pot because I purchased humidity trays for them to get better results.
Ok, That is still repotting [Changing the pot].

Changing the pot is not going to make much difference.

The key aspect of repotting is changing the soil.

Chances are that your current soil does not resemble that which is described in the soil sticky. [or the links included] Some pictures would be helpfull for us to determine that.
Please review the soil sticky:

https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3422

Here are some tips on taking pictures:

https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3557
what I meant by bottom dishwatering was when you put alittle water in to the dish that is placed under the plant pots.
Ok, I am curious...Is this how you were watering your tree?

I ask because this is not an effective method at all.

The humidity tray [beneath your tree] is not nearly large enough to hold the amount of water that will run through the drainage holes when a bonsai is properly watered.

The tray is simply there to allow the water to evaporate and provide some extra local humidity for the tree.

The bottom of your plastic pot is not sitting IN the water is it?
If so please elevate it out of the water as it will wick up water and the tree will stay far too wet.

ynot

Dalicea34
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Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Nov 29, 2006 6:00 pm
Location: Florida

ynot wrote:
Maybe I may be using the word repotting wrong when I am changing my bonsai from the plastic pot it came with to a ceramic bonsai pot because I purchased humidity trays for them to get better results.
Ok, That is still repotting [Changing the pot].

Changing the pot is not going to make much difference.

The key aspect of repotting is changing the soil.

Chances are that your current soil does not resemble that which is described in the soil sticky. [or the links included] Some pictures would be helpfull for us to determine that.
Please review the soil sticky:

I finally changed to the ceramic bonsai pots with new bonsai soil,and placed them on top of humidity tray. I also placed pot in water for 10 minutes and the soil is nice and dark and moist. Was I suppose to remove pot from water and put on tray? :?
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3422

Here are some tips on taking pictures:

https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3557
what I meant by bottom dishwatering was when you put alittle water in to the dish that is placed under the plant pots.
Ok, I am curious...Is this how you were watering your tree?

I ask because this is not an effective method at all.

The humidity tray [beneath your tree] is not nearly large enough to hold the amount of water that will run through the drainage holes when a bonsai is properly watered.

The tray is simply there to allow the water to evaporate and provide some extra local humidity for the tree.

The bottom of your plastic pot is not sitting IN the water is it?
If so please elevate it out of the water as it will wick up water and the tree will stay far too wet.

ynot

Newt
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Dalicea, your entire last post is a quote. Did you have a comment or question? You can edit your post to add or delete something by clicking on the edit button on the top right of the last post.

Newt

Dalicea34
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Location: Florida

Re: Good news on my serissa and ficus bonzai

:D Hey All,
just here happy that my bonsaii recuperated after I repotted. I have been using the chopstick watering method and the serissa has new buds and leaves. And ficus is doing ok too. Thank you for all the important tips on bonsaii care. Between carefully repotting them with new bonsai soil in new bonsai ceramic pots and careful placing on the humidity trays with out water wicking off the tray



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