the 1-1-1 compost/vermiculite/peat is an okay approach for a start but keep in mind:
compost is not exactly compost - it is 'different' depending on what all went into it. it's all good -
the vermiculite has "no" nutrient value to speak of, it's typically used as a filler to make the mix lighter weight ie less dense - using compost and peat, hardly a need to worry much about drainage, which is the potted plant issue with vermiculite / pearlite / eps
peat - well compost is essentially 100% organic, peat is essentially 100% organic, so you're making an soil-less mix, so to speak. it's going to shrink probably about 50% by volume as the season goes on. in a raised bed, you'll notice this.
also keep in mind, peat moss including Canadian, etc., tends to the acid side, as may a compost . . . so you might want to think soil test when you're done.
do you have "real dirt" available? if this is a relatively small project and you have the ability to thoroughly mix stuff I'd go with 50% dirt, 25% compost and 25% peat. no vermiculite - the high organic content will do the drainage issue. all the compost & peat will decay down to next to no volume, so each year you can repeat the dirt-compost-peat thing - but after 2-3 years you'll likely not need the peat as the soil tilth will have seriously improved.
methinks you may be overt-thinking the chem fertilizer brand/strength balance per leaf thing. the NPK numbers are the percentage of each by weight in the product. if you dump on 30-30-30 the tomato is not going to eat all 30% of everything on day one. a 10-10-10 can be reapplied "as needed" - three one pound applications of 10-10-10 is equal to one one pound application of 30-30-30 well, except for how much gets leached / washed away.
since we're in the organic section....you might want to consider a bag of dried cow manure to help out.
but generally crops that fruit should not have an excess of nitrogen - lots of foliage, not so many tomatoes (for example)
leafy / heading crops - spinach, cauliflower, broccoli, etc. need relatively more nitrogen to grow faster.
root crops - carrots, turnips, etc. need a relatively higher K
an old adage that goes with N-P-K is flowers-fruits-roots.
something to consider when 'grouping' things together.