Vine For Chain Link Fence
I'm looking for some kind of vine plant for my 3-4 ft. chain link fences. Preferably something that does well in part sun, but I suppose I have some full sun areas I could cover too if you want to give any suggestions for that as well. I have no idea what there even is to choose from.
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rainbowgardener
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Depends... If you just grow annuals, and start them over every year, you don't have to worry about will they survive your winters, you will just need something pretty quick growing, for your shorter growing season. Some quick growing annual vines include black-eyed Susan vine, moonflower, hyacinth bean vine.
If you want perennial vines, you need to know your USDA hardiness zone. I couldn't find Crystal, MN when trying to look it up for you. The hardiness zone relates to how cold your winters get and is very important for picking perennial plants that will survive. In general terms it looks like northern half of MN is zone 3 and southern half is zone 4 (but you would need to find out precisely... there are some websites that you can put your zipcode into and it will tell you) Zone 3 is pretty limiting. Some varieties of grape vine would be that hardy. Some varieties of clematis, including the Jackmannii, which has gorgeous big deep purple blooms. Some varieties of hops. If you are in zone 4 you can add to the above (anything that will survive zone 3 will be fine in zone 4) Virginia creeper, trumpet vine, chocolate vine, climbing bittersweet, ivy, climbing hydrangea, silver lace vine. Watch out for the bittersweet and ivy, they are invasives, so you will need to keep them in control, but they would be great for fast growing, dense coverage. The silver lace vine is also very fast growing. The trumpet vine (trumpet creeper) is a native and can be a little slow to establish, but once established grows like crazy (I have to keep cutting mine back to keep it from swallowing my house whole). Virginia creeper is also a nice native, but does not have showy flowers.
If you want perennial vines, you need to know your USDA hardiness zone. I couldn't find Crystal, MN when trying to look it up for you. The hardiness zone relates to how cold your winters get and is very important for picking perennial plants that will survive. In general terms it looks like northern half of MN is zone 3 and southern half is zone 4 (but you would need to find out precisely... there are some websites that you can put your zipcode into and it will tell you) Zone 3 is pretty limiting. Some varieties of grape vine would be that hardy. Some varieties of clematis, including the Jackmannii, which has gorgeous big deep purple blooms. Some varieties of hops. If you are in zone 4 you can add to the above (anything that will survive zone 3 will be fine in zone 4) Virginia creeper, trumpet vine, chocolate vine, climbing bittersweet, ivy, climbing hydrangea, silver lace vine. Watch out for the bittersweet and ivy, they are invasives, so you will need to keep them in control, but they would be great for fast growing, dense coverage. The silver lace vine is also very fast growing. The trumpet vine (trumpet creeper) is a native and can be a little slow to establish, but once established grows like crazy (I have to keep cutting mine back to keep it from swallowing my house whole). Virginia creeper is also a nice native, but does not have showy flowers.
There have been so many members of this forum who have discussed their travails with honeysuckle (Lonicera spp.) that I would be hesitant to plant it anywhere near me. I'm not personally familiar with Boston ivy but have way too much experience with English ivy to ever recommend it to anyone except as a container plant...
Rainbow is an experienced Northern gardener and has given what looks like sound advice.
If those recommendations don't resonate with you, maybe your county ag. extension office will have some great recommendations for plants that do well locally.
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
Rainbow is an experienced Northern gardener and has given what looks like sound advice.
If those recommendations don't resonate with you, maybe your county ag. extension office will have some great recommendations for plants that do well locally.
Cynthia H.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
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The Helpful Gardener
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I like Mo's call's for the most part (but if we are going to talk Partheniocissus, Maureen, then why not P. quinquefolia, Virginia creeper? (Nice call, RG). Well known to our wildlife, with a better berry set, and a better fall color. Why choose the Japanese species?) But I have to say I agree the native honeysuckles take a bad rap for their Asian brethren, and 'Dropmore' is a great hummingbird feeder...
We need to speak to specifics when we discuss invasives. That does not mean we need to look to specific cultivars, but certainly invasive tendency in a species warrants eliminating as much germ plasm as possible; as we learned with Lythrum, they are ALL badguys. 'Happy', 'Morden's Pink' or 'Robert' did as much damage as the next weed, no matter how much we wanted it to not be so... So Cynthia's caution is to be lauded here as well; it is better to ask the question every time we think about using a plant. Some of Rainbow's suggestions are actually banned invasive's in my state, including bittersweet, which was native but has interbred so much with the Asian invader that looks nearly indistiguishable, that no one can really tell the difference without a gene sequencing. The water gets muddy quickly...
In both these cases Maureens suggestions are safe, but I hope she understands Cynthia's caution; neither are out of place here...
HG
We need to speak to specifics when we discuss invasives. That does not mean we need to look to specific cultivars, but certainly invasive tendency in a species warrants eliminating as much germ plasm as possible; as we learned with Lythrum, they are ALL badguys. 'Happy', 'Morden's Pink' or 'Robert' did as much damage as the next weed, no matter how much we wanted it to not be so... So Cynthia's caution is to be lauded here as well; it is better to ask the question every time we think about using a plant. Some of Rainbow's suggestions are actually banned invasive's in my state, including bittersweet, which was native but has interbred so much with the Asian invader that looks nearly indistiguishable, that no one can really tell the difference without a gene sequencing. The water gets muddy quickly...
In both these cases Maureens suggestions are safe, but I hope she understands Cynthia's caution; neither are out of place here...
HG
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applestar
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My local herb lady (www.springvilleherbary.com) won't sell me the trumpet creeper. She's got TONS and could easily propagate them to sell, but she says it TAKES OVER, and she wouldn't wish them on anybody. 
I have the Dropmore Scarlet. It's looking gorgeous right now, and a male hummingbird whizzed right by my head it was so eager to take a sip.
Last fall, I took a cutting and planted it this spring when the spring growth spurt started. It should look beautiful over the white gate arbor.
I have the Dropmore Scarlet. It's looking gorgeous right now, and a male hummingbird whizzed right by my head it was so eager to take a sip.
Last fall, I took a cutting and planted it this spring when the spring growth spurt started. It should look beautiful over the white gate arbor.
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rainbowgardener
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No, when it's invasive and native we say it has a "vigorous nature"... And RG? I have seen Campsis come from seed and it is scary unleashed on a property. Got loose at a friends uncle's rental place and about ate the backyard. I think it's pretty, and yes, hummers love it too, but it makes me nervous... 
It's a really good question actually. Like the bittersweet, even if we do get native we are providing germ plasm that the non-native invasive can use to procreate, so should we stop using the native? That's the compromise position in Connecticut, and the florists are still pi**ed about it. You cannot trade in that genus in Connecticut, so none in bouqets either (which makes sense because what happens? It gets landfilled...
)
But I really liked the Virginia creeper idea, probably because that was what I did at the old farmhouse Becky and I rented right before I bought the current cottage. Free plants (especially around the feeder as birds love it), insignificant flower but amazing berry set, and better fall color than that nasty invasive burning bush.. And birds? We used to get nests in the plants on the wire fence! Barely covered, but they loved that plant. And it works from full sun to nearly full shade, so you can do all your areas. Problem free (occasional fungal spotting but not so much in full sun) and dead easy; an excellent choice...
HG
And RG? I have seen Campsis come from seed and it is scary unleashed on a property. Got loose at a friends uncle's rental place and about ate the backyard. I think it's pretty, and yes, hummers love it too, but it makes me nervous... It's a really good question actually. Like the bittersweet, even if we do get native we are providing germ plasm that the non-native invasive can use to procreate, so should we stop using the native? That's the compromise position in Connecticut, and the florists are still pi**ed about it. You cannot trade in that genus in Connecticut, so none in bouqets either (which makes sense because what happens? It gets landfilled...
)But I really liked the Virginia creeper idea, probably because that was what I did at the old farmhouse Becky and I rented right before I bought the current cottage. Free plants (especially around the feeder as birds love it), insignificant flower but amazing berry set, and better fall color than that nasty invasive burning bush.. And birds? We used to get nests in the plants on the wire fence! Barely covered, but they loved that plant. And it works from full sun to nearly full shade, so you can do all your areas. Problem free (occasional fungal spotting but not so much in full sun) and dead easy; an excellent choice...
HG
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applestar
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Actually Trumpet Creeper or Trumpet Vine is (Campsis radicans)
'Dropmore Scarlet' is a named variety (Lonicera x brownii) of the native Trumpet Honeysuckle Vine (Lonicera sempervirens) -- NOT the invasive Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica)
Scroll down this thread to see photos of 'Dropmore Scarlet' and the Snowberry Clearwing moth a.k.a. "Bumble" as well as the Virginia Creeper Sphinx Moth a.k.a. "Stealth Fighter"
www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10713
** Webmaster, is there a way to get the link info for pinpointing the specific post, the way email notification of new postings do?
FYI -- I originally tried to grow Lonicera sempervirens 'Alabama Crimson' in the same spot but it died. Don't know if it means anything....
'Dropmore Scarlet' is a named variety (Lonicera x brownii) of the native Trumpet Honeysuckle Vine (Lonicera sempervirens) -- NOT the invasive Japanese Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica)
Scroll down this thread to see photos of 'Dropmore Scarlet' and the Snowberry Clearwing moth a.k.a. "Bumble" as well as the Virginia Creeper Sphinx Moth a.k.a. "Stealth Fighter"
www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10713
** Webmaster, is there a way to get the link info for pinpointing the specific post, the way email notification of new postings do?
FYI -- I originally tried to grow Lonicera sempervirens 'Alabama Crimson' in the same spot but it died. Don't know if it means anything....
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The Helpful Gardener
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Just a thought but what about hops?
I live north of Calgary Alberta and have the same zone as you a little colder but not by much and I have hops and they do great. They are fairly huge over summer and will twist around and climb over anything but die back to the ground in the winter. Added bonus is if beer prices ever get too high Hubby can brew his own. The vines look great in the winter all covered in snow and I mix a few morning glories in to give me some extra flowers but the hops grow 20 to 25 feet so they pretty much will cover anything. So if you haven't found anything you might consider hops.
Cheers
Bina
I live north of Calgary Alberta and have the same zone as you a little colder but not by much and I have hops and they do great. They are fairly huge over summer and will twist around and climb over anything but die back to the ground in the winter. Added bonus is if beer prices ever get too high Hubby can brew his own.
The vines look great in the winter all covered in snow and I mix a few morning glories in to give me some extra flowers but the hops grow 20 to 25 feet so they pretty much will cover anything. So if you haven't found anything you might consider hops.Cheers
Bina
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Well this is disappointing, I went to my garden center and all they have for climbing perennials are clematis. Is clematis a good cover for fences?
I was also wondering, I saw on Victory Garden a Large Leaved Algerian Ivy in which they say does not hurt trees they grow on, except these are for zones 5-10 and I'm in 4. Is there a tree safe vine that I can get for zone 4, or would this algerian ivy survive in zone 4?
I was also wondering, I saw on Victory Garden a Large Leaved Algerian Ivy in which they say does not hurt trees they grow on, except these are for zones 5-10 and I'm in 4. Is there a tree safe vine that I can get for zone 4, or would this algerian ivy survive in zone 4?
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Do you know where on the internet I could get such a vine? I'm guessing I'd have to start from seed getting it from the internet.The Helpful Gardener wrote:Hedera canariensis or Algerian ivy is Zone 6...
Decado, the native Partheniocissus quinquefolia I listed would be a great choice for a tree safe vine and is Zone 4 hardy... great fall color and bird feeder too...
HG
Also, what do you think about the clematis? It's either that or wait until fall to plant honeysuckle I find on the internet.
So are you sure about the virginia creeper being tree safe and manageable? From what I've been reading it can choke out trees by growing too big and blocking sunlight from leaves. Also, from what I've been reading it can get pretty unmanageable and go to seed all over the place. Do you know how common the poison ivy like reactions are from it? I'm seriously allergic to poison ivy.
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applestar
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Decado, can you post the link to where you read about poison ivy-like reaction? I'm seriously allergic too, but I have lots of Virginia creeper especially now that I've been letting them grow -- wish I could send some to ya! I wouldn't say they seed "all over" but they HAVE appeared on their own (volunteered) along one fence and under the Japanese maple tree.... This is in addition to the lush original growth along the back fence where the property back up to a wooded area.
My immediate suspicion though, is that since poison ivy seedling and young Virginia creeper look somewhat alike, AND they grow under similar circumstances (bird droppings), they often grow together with the result that the poison ivy might have been HIDING among the Virginia creeper foliage.
BTW, HG, thanks for the recommendation about Weed Hound elsewhere -- I have no fear of pulling up poison ivy seedlings and offshoots now. I used to use plastic grocery bags over my hands and arms, much like picking up dog doo. 
I wouldn't say they seed "all over" but they HAVE appeared on their own (volunteered) along one fence and under the Japanese maple tree.... This is in addition to the lush original growth along the back fence where the property back up to a wooded area.My immediate suspicion though, is that since poison ivy seedling and young Virginia creeper look somewhat alike, AND they grow under similar circumstances (bird droppings), they often grow together with the result that the poison ivy might have been HIDING among the Virginia creeper foliage.
BTW, HG, thanks for the recommendation about Weed Hound elsewhere -- I have no fear of pulling up poison ivy seedlings and offshoots now.
I used to use plastic grocery bags over my hands and arms, much like picking up dog doo. -
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I'm with AS on the reaction to Virginia Creeper; first I'd heard of it and AS sure is right about the look alike thing when they are young...
My myriad and heavy exposure as a child has left me nearly immune to poison ivy (as was my maternal grandfather). It's said Amerind tribes in our area used to feed the tiny new leaves of poison ivy to their children to build immunity, but I have never had the want or need to try it myself and surely wouldn't feed it to a child. But I get the idea...
So decado, just go looking for poison ivy with FIVE leaves instead of three, and there you go, there's your plant, free of charge. Other than the really small plants, the mature leaves leave no doubt about who's who. [url=https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https://condor.wesleyan.edu/soconnell/wescourses/2003s/ees199/finalprojects/Marion_Banks_page/virtual_tour/images/virginia%2520creepercrop.jpg&imgrefurl=https://condor.wesleyan.edu/soconnell/wescourses/2003s/ees199/finalprojects/Marion_Banks_page/virtual_tour/index.htm&h=374&w=503&sz=40&tbnid=CeDORnDvcNrGkM::&tbnh=97&tbnw=130&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dvirginia%2Bcreeper&hl=en&usg=__Fxe1N5MXOCCvx6Kuybac1t7KCK0=&ei=5hgfSuicJ9PmlAel9tTHBQ&sa=X&oi=image_result&resnum=5&ct=image]Virginia Creeper[/url] will be coming back to my yard as soon as I rebuild my trellis (whacked in a horrible downburst by a flying patio table)
HG
My myriad and heavy exposure as a child has left me nearly immune to poison ivy (as was my maternal grandfather). It's said Amerind tribes in our area used to feed the tiny new leaves of poison ivy to their children to build immunity, but I have never had the want or need to try it myself and surely wouldn't feed it to a child. But I get the idea...
So decado, just go looking for poison ivy with FIVE leaves instead of three, and there you go, there's your plant, free of charge. Other than the really small plants, the mature leaves leave no doubt about who's who. [url=https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https://condor.wesleyan.edu/soconnell/wescourses/2003s/ees199/finalprojects/Marion_Banks_page/virtual_tour/images/virginia%2520creepercrop.jpg&imgrefurl=https://condor.wesleyan.edu/soconnell/wescourses/2003s/ees199/finalprojects/Marion_Banks_page/virtual_tour/index.htm&h=374&w=503&sz=40&tbnid=CeDORnDvcNrGkM::&tbnh=97&tbnw=130&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dvirginia%2Bcreeper&hl=en&usg=__Fxe1N5MXOCCvx6Kuybac1t7KCK0=&ei=5hgfSuicJ9PmlAel9tTHBQ&sa=X&oi=image_result&resnum=5&ct=image]Virginia Creeper[/url] will be coming back to my yard as soon as I rebuild my trellis (whacked in a horrible downburst by a flying patio table)
HG
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Well I found somewhere with Dropmore Scarlet Honeysuckle! So I got a couple trellis' and a couple Honeysuckles, I also got a Blue Moon Wisteria.
This place also has the Virginia Creeper. Just to clarify, are you sure the Creeper is safe for a tree? I've been reading that it can choke out the leaves so that they don't get sun, is this true?
This place also has the Virginia Creeper. Just to clarify, are you sure the Creeper is safe for a tree? I've been reading that it can choke out the leaves so that they don't get sun, is this true?
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Thanks D!
I had not heard that before! The oxalate crystals made me think of genus Oxalis, like wood sorrel, of which we have a number of natives, but a lot of folks know from container culture as [url=https://www.jaycjayc.com/oxalis-triangularis-purple-shamrock/]purple shamrock[/url]
Turns out there IS oxalate involved here to with a particular note to dogs and cats, but this lady is worried about her [url=https://www.missouriplants.com/Bluealt/Oxalis_violacea_page.html]Dad eating oxalis[/url]...
Don't get me wrong; I eat stuff out of my lawn to freak folks out all the time; dandelions and sorrel and such. I really do it to make a point; as my lawn is organic I CAN eat stuff out of my lawn...
HG
I had not heard that before! The oxalate crystals made me think of genus Oxalis, like wood sorrel, of which we have a number of natives, but a lot of folks know from container culture as [url=https://www.jaycjayc.com/oxalis-triangularis-purple-shamrock/]purple shamrock[/url]
Turns out there IS oxalate involved here to with a particular note to dogs and cats, but this lady is worried about her [url=https://www.missouriplants.com/Bluealt/Oxalis_violacea_page.html]Dad eating oxalis[/url]...
Don't get me wrong; I eat stuff out of my lawn to freak folks out all the time; dandelions and sorrel and such. I really do it to make a point; as my lawn is organic I CAN eat stuff out of my lawn...HG
Well here's what I've done so far, I still want to get a Virginia Creeper for a tree.
Dropmore Scarlet Honeysuckles:
[img]https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y69/wrathloki/6-1-2009/DSC01717_1_.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y69/wrathloki/6-1-2009/DSC01719_1_.jpg[/img]
I'm guessing/hoping that the Honeysuckle will grow up the trellis and the along fence.
Blue Moon Wisteria:
[img]https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y69/wrathloki/6-1-2009/DSC01721.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y69/wrathloki/6-1-2009/DSC01723.jpg[/img]
Dropmore Scarlet Honeysuckles:
[img]https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y69/wrathloki/6-1-2009/DSC01717_1_.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y69/wrathloki/6-1-2009/DSC01719_1_.jpg[/img]
I'm guessing/hoping that the Honeysuckle will grow up the trellis and the along fence.
Blue Moon Wisteria:
[img]https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y69/wrathloki/6-1-2009/DSC01721.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y69/wrathloki/6-1-2009/DSC01723.jpg[/img]
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Dec, is that ostrich fern in front of the wisteria? That'll keep it from coming your way...
I'm a little concerned; what will keep it from ending up in the neighbor's yards? Always a concern in our suburban neighborhoods (I too live in a developed area and try to be careful about what ends up on the other side of the fence)...Knowing just how rampant Wisteria can be I just have a feeling you will be having a discussion over the fence about this plant in a few years (I hope it's "I LOVE that wisteria!" but you never know...
)Always best to look a few years down the road with anything you plant...
I was thinking of you the other day; pulled two volunteer Virginia Creepers out of the front flower bed... one man's weed, right? But it isn't a weed in my far backyard; there I let it grow... put the right plant in the right place, do things at the right time, and that's gardening
HG
I'm a little concerned; what will keep it from ending up in the neighbor's yards? Always a concern in our suburban neighborhoods (I too live in a developed area and try to be careful about what ends up on the other side of the fence)...Knowing just how rampant Wisteria can be I just have a feeling you will be having a discussion over the fence about this plant in a few years (I hope it's "I LOVE that wisteria!" but you never know...
)Always best to look a few years down the road with anything you plant...I was thinking of you the other day; pulled two volunteer Virginia Creepers out of the front flower bed... one man's weed, right?
But it isn't a weed in my far backyard; there I let it grow... put the right plant in the right place, do things at the right time, and that's gardening HG
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rainbowgardener
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And it's not just trimming, but underground runners. Dirr says the plant will grow 10 feet or more in a season (not underground that fast, but it continues to spread basally. Be ready to shovel prune too).
I might restrict top growth considerably and try to maintain a lower vigor that way. Dr. Dirr says stay away from the nitrogen on this one, so easy on the feedings, leaning more towards potassium and phosphate than nitrogen. I'd just use compost which gives a continual light feeding suited to wards this one ranbunctious ways. I like the plant; just needs a lot of supervision.
HG
I might restrict top growth considerably and try to maintain a lower vigor that way. Dr. Dirr says stay away from the nitrogen on this one, so easy on the feedings, leaning more towards potassium and phosphate than nitrogen. I'd just use compost which gives a continual light feeding suited to wards this one ranbunctious ways. I like the plant; just needs a lot of supervision.
HG
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MaineDesigner
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On the positive side Lonicera x 'Dropmore Scarlet' was a good choice. I have not worked with the 'Blue Moon' selection but I do have experience with the straight species Wisteria marcostachys in Minnesota.
Now the bad news. Your trellises are (IMO) too small and too lightweight for woody vines. Especially in the case of the Wisteria I strongly urge you to consider something much larger and stronger, probably made from pressure treated wood.
Excluding clematis and occasionally Lonicera sempervirens or Lonicera x heckrotti or Aristolochia I generally do not use vines. I have seen far too many examples of vines getting away from the property owners, all it takes is a season or two of neglect. Virginia Creeper, Parthenocissus quinquefolia, left unchecked, is decidedly not "tree safe" per both my own observations and the Natural Resources Conservation Service.
Now the bad news. Your trellises are (IMO) too small and too lightweight for woody vines. Especially in the case of the Wisteria I strongly urge you to consider something much larger and stronger, probably made from pressure treated wood.
Excluding clematis and occasionally Lonicera sempervirens or Lonicera x heckrotti or Aristolochia I generally do not use vines. I have seen far too many examples of vines getting away from the property owners, all it takes is a season or two of neglect. Virginia Creeper, Parthenocissus quinquefolia, left unchecked, is decidedly not "tree safe" per both my own observations and the Natural Resources Conservation Service.
What size wood do you think I'd be safe with? Would I be fine if I made a trellis out of 2x2's held together with wood screws and wood glue? Or is that too small even.MaineDesigner wrote:On the positive side Lonicera x 'Dropmore Scarlet' was a good choice. I have not worked with the 'Blue Moon' selection but I do have experience with the straight species Wisteria marcostachys in Minnesota.
Now the bad news. Your trellises are (IMO) too small and too lightweight for woody vines. Especially in the case of the Wisteria I strongly urge you to consider something much larger and stronger, probably made from pressure treated wood.
Excluding clematis and occasionally Lonicera sempervirens or Lonicera x heckrotti or Aristolochia I generally do not use vines. I have seen far too many examples of vines getting away from the property owners, all it takes is a season or two of neglect. Virginia Creeper, Parthenocissus quinquefolia, left unchecked, is decidedly not "tree safe" per both my own observations and the Natural Resources Conservation Service.
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I have watched Wisteria sinensis rip a porch off of an old Victorian house, and there is NO exagerration in that statement at all. Got vines up between the house and the porch roof and just ripped it off and down. Took a few years (almost seven), but wisteria has nothing but time... Two by two's will work a few years, but still ain't enough for the long haul...
MD is right, there is a short list most of us use in any situation; I had used the Virginia Creeper on wire fencing to good effect before, so recommended it, and I might add Schizophragma and Hydrangea vine to MD's list, but I agree for the most part, just don't use them as much as we did years back...
HG
MD is right, there is a short list most of us use in any situation; I had used the Virginia Creeper on wire fencing to good effect before, so recommended it, and I might add Schizophragma and Hydrangea vine to MD's list, but I agree for the most part, just don't use them as much as we did years back...
HG
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applestar
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- Posts: 30541
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Here's one that ate half of a barn and the attached silo....
[img]https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/applesbucket/MVC-001F.jpg[/img]
Here's my mom standing next to it for scale comparison:
[img]https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/applesbucket/MVC-005F1.jpg[/img]
It's been torn down but it was quite a sight and gorgeous in flower each spring.
[img]https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/applesbucket/MVC-008F1.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/applesbucket/MVC-001F.jpg[/img]
Here's my mom standing next to it for scale comparison:
[img]https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/applesbucket/MVC-005F1.jpg[/img]
It's been torn down but it was quite a sight and gorgeous in flower each spring.
[img]https://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/applesbucket/MVC-008F1.jpg[/img]
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The Helpful Gardener
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- Location: Colchester, CT
Yes, but I do plan on keeping it in check and adding trellis' as time goes on and I'm even planning on putting an arbor up back there at some point. I just need to know what size wood wouldn't snap while being kept in check, I'm a young guy, I can stay on top of this no problem.
FYI, I did heed your guys' advice, I planned on only getting the honeysuckle but my dad insisted on getting a wisteria. While a lovely looking choice we had no idea it would be such a problem.
Also, I'm guessing the honeysuckle would be fine with wood like 2x2s? Or am I wrong there as well?
FYI, I did heed your guys' advice, I planned on only getting the honeysuckle but my dad insisted on getting a wisteria. While a lovely looking choice we had no idea it would be such a problem.
Also, I'm guessing the honeysuckle would be fine with wood like 2x2s? Or am I wrong there as well?
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applestar
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- Posts: 30541
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Mine is currently on a decorative wall trellis made of welded 1/2" iron rods with 12" underground stakes. It's climbed to the eaves and are trying to find a way up over the gutter and onto the roof.... (I'll probably have to get up there and train/trim them down soon) I've put up a rather flimsy hollow rod arbor to help it grow across the top of a window -- we love watching the hummingbirds out of this Family Room window. This has to be a temporary solution because this is the kind of cheap arbor that buckled under one season's growth of some wild grape vines during a severe storm one summer.
I think 2x2 wood sounds sturdy enough for the honey suckle as long as the structure is cross-braced enough -- besides, you're going to let it climb along the chainlink, right? But let's hear the experts' opinions for this one.
BTW -- my parents have a wisteria arbor made from 10' or so high (above ground) 4x4 uprights sunk in cement and 4x4 upper perimeter frame with 2x2 cross pieces. I'm guessing they've had it for at least 10 years.
I think 2x2 wood sounds sturdy enough for the honey suckle as long as the structure is cross-braced enough -- besides, you're going to let it climb along the chainlink, right? But let's hear the experts' opinions for this one.
BTW -- my parents have a wisteria arbor made from 10' or so high (above ground) 4x4 uprights sunk in cement and 4x4 upper perimeter frame with 2x2 cross pieces. I'm guessing they've had it for at least 10 years.