Should I dig these up and separate them or will I be OK leaving them the way they are? I planted on June 1st and my daughter helped me put the seeds in the holes. I have one row of corn that didnt come up but it looks like every other seed that was put in the ground came up.
Thanks,
Shawn
Heres some pics:
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/Mandascam003.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/Mandascam006.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/Mandascam007.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/Mandascam004.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/Mandascam005.jpg[/img]
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opabinia51
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 4659
- Joined: Thu Oct 21, 2004 5:58 pm
- Location: Victoria, BC
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opabinia51
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 4659
- Joined: Thu Oct 21, 2004 5:58 pm
- Location: Victoria, BC
Yeah, try the relocation thing. Let us know how it goes.
When you replant your corn, make sure that you plant it deeply in the soil. It's a bit late now for advice on seeds but, when you plant the seeds put them between 2 an 4 inches deep in the soil. 4 is better.
Corn does not spread it's roots downward, what happens is an epicotyl us pushed up through the soil, the roots grow out from the trail the epicoytl leaves behind and do not go any deeper than this. Therefore, if you don't plant your corn deep enough it will not send out roots deep enough to hold the plant up.
Anyway, the whole reason for that extended discription is to get you to plant your corn deep. Root horemones that naturally exiist in the soil will cause the existant stem to sprout roots and hold your plants up.
Also, corn is a very heavy feeder and likes lots and lots of nitrogen so work lots of compost manure into the soil around the plants.. Also, plant peas/beans beside your plants now after you have thinned them. The legumes will grow up the stalks and Nitrogen fixing bacteria will associate with the roots of the legumes (peas and beens) and feed the corn nitrogen.
Once the peas are up plant squash between the rows of corn and legumes. The squash will shade out many but, not all weeds and make weeding easier for you.
This small guild is called the Three Sisters guild. All three plants benefit each other.
When you replant your corn, make sure that you plant it deeply in the soil. It's a bit late now for advice on seeds but, when you plant the seeds put them between 2 an 4 inches deep in the soil. 4 is better.
Corn does not spread it's roots downward, what happens is an epicotyl us pushed up through the soil, the roots grow out from the trail the epicoytl leaves behind and do not go any deeper than this. Therefore, if you don't plant your corn deep enough it will not send out roots deep enough to hold the plant up.
Anyway, the whole reason for that extended discription is to get you to plant your corn deep. Root horemones that naturally exiist in the soil will cause the existant stem to sprout roots and hold your plants up.
Also, corn is a very heavy feeder and likes lots and lots of nitrogen so work lots of compost manure into the soil around the plants.. Also, plant peas/beans beside your plants now after you have thinned them. The legumes will grow up the stalks and Nitrogen fixing bacteria will associate with the roots of the legumes (peas and beens) and feed the corn nitrogen.
Once the peas are up plant squash between the rows of corn and legumes. The squash will shade out many but, not all weeds and make weeding easier for you.
This small guild is called the Three Sisters guild. All three plants benefit each other.
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opabinia51
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 4659
- Joined: Thu Oct 21, 2004 5:58 pm
- Location: Victoria, BC
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Charlie MV
- Greener Thumb
- Posts: 1544
- Joined: Thu May 08, 2008 11:48 pm
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opabinia51
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 4659
- Joined: Thu Oct 21, 2004 5:58 pm
- Location: Victoria, BC
I actually plant my corn on mounds that run the length of the rows. One seed on either side along the row (mound). You don't need to worry to much about the wind pollination, planting in bunches may help but, the pollen is designed to travel by wind therefore if you have rows of corn, you will get pollination. Interesting idea though.
I read once that corn from 1/2 mile away cross pollinated with another variety. Crazy isn't it?
With my mounds (with beans along with the corn and squash or potoates in the valleys between the mounds) I have a minimum of 5 cobs per corn stalk.
Of course I also have incredbly rich soil so that helps as well
I read once that corn from 1/2 mile away cross pollinated with another variety. Crazy isn't it?
With my mounds (with beans along with the corn and squash or potoates in the valleys between the mounds) I have a minimum of 5 cobs per corn stalk.
Of course I also have incredbly rich soil so that helps as well
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Charlie MV
- Greener Thumb
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opabinia51
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 4659
- Joined: Thu Oct 21, 2004 5:58 pm
- Location: Victoria, BC
I read somewhere once that beachsand is bad for gardens because of all the sobule salts contained there in. It makes sense given that salts kill beneficial soil biota and can burn plants with excess nutrients.
Make sure you add lots and lots of organic matter to your soil.
Hate to be the bearer of bad news
Happy gardening!
Make sure you add lots and lots of organic matter to your soil.
Hate to be the bearer of bad news
Happy gardening!
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Charlie MV
- Greener Thumb
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opabinia51
- Super Green Thumb
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- Joined: Thu Oct 21, 2004 5:58 pm
- Location: Victoria, BC
Oh I see 
You know sandy soil is the easiest to ammend. Clay based soil is harder but, makes a more weather resistant soil. In my vegetable garden I started if with sand and bit of organic matter. Now, I have beautiful soil that grows lovely vegetables (and weeds )
Anyway, leaves are great soil ammenders, as well as different types of manure, coffee grounds (from local coffee shops), rock phosphate, saw dust (I just use small quantities here and there), green manures (also known as cover crops) and so on.
You know sandy soil is the easiest to ammend. Clay based soil is harder but, makes a more weather resistant soil. In my vegetable garden I started if with sand and bit of organic matter. Now, I have beautiful soil that grows lovely vegetables (and weeds
)Anyway, leaves are great soil ammenders, as well as different types of manure, coffee grounds (from local coffee shops), rock phosphate, saw dust (I just use small quantities here and there), green manures (also known as cover crops) and so on.
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Charlie MV
- Greener Thumb
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- Joined: Thu May 08, 2008 11:48 pm
Time of year, seed type, soil temperature and moisture will dictate how deep to put a corn kernel. Sh2's like shallow (3/4 to 1 inch), Se, Su and Synergistic can go deeper, 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Sh2 requires a lot of moisture and warm soil to germinate properly without leaving a lot of rotted seed in the ground.
If you plant hill drop do 2 or 3 plants (not bunched together). 8 inches is good for spacing in rows. You can go wider but there really is no point.
Su, Se and Synergistic run the risk of cross pollination from field corn and each other, Sh2's from other Sh2 and sweet corn. Separate by pollination time and or distance.
Just pulling the corn you have bunched now (as it is really too close to keep soil around the root system) and sticking it back in the ground is probably going to result in severely stunted growth (if not death) and the untouched corn will reach pollination before the transplanted corn. Better to just thin it out.
4 rows is a good minimum number for thorough pollination. More is better.
If you plant hill drop do 2 or 3 plants (not bunched together). 8 inches is good for spacing in rows. You can go wider but there really is no point.
Su, Se and Synergistic run the risk of cross pollination from field corn and each other, Sh2's from other Sh2 and sweet corn. Separate by pollination time and or distance.
Just pulling the corn you have bunched now (as it is really too close to keep soil around the root system) and sticking it back in the ground is probably going to result in severely stunted growth (if not death) and the untouched corn will reach pollination before the transplanted corn. Better to just thin it out.
4 rows is a good minimum number for thorough pollination. More is better.
Well I've been harvesting my okra since the end of Aug. It took a while I think because they were so close. My corn on the other hand didn't make it. They got about a foot tall, started to produce some midget sized ears and then turned brown and died. It got pretty hot down here this year and I thought I was gonna lose everything.
The okra has really taken off now and I am cutting new pods daily. I have pickled a bunch of it and cut up and froze the rest.
I also planted a very limited quantity of Tomatoes and peppers for the Fall garden. Some of it is doing OK but I have one Tomato plant that started producing and just turned brown all of a sudden.
I will try and get some pics up tomorrow.
The okra has really taken off now and I am cutting new pods daily. I have pickled a bunch of it and cut up and froze the rest.
I also planted a very limited quantity of Tomatoes and peppers for the Fall garden. Some of it is doing OK but I have one Tomato plant that started producing and just turned brown all of a sudden.
I will try and get some pics up tomorrow.
Heres some pics:
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01009.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01012.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01013.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01023.jpg[/img]
And heres some of my very small Fall garden:
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01014.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01015.jpg[/img]
My irrigation system:
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01016.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01017.jpg[/img]
Lots of Maters on one limb:
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01018.jpg[/img]
Heres showing where one of my Mater plants just started shriveling up(on the left):
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01019.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01020.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01009.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01012.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01013.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01023.jpg[/img]
And heres some of my very small Fall garden:
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01014.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01015.jpg[/img]
My irrigation system:
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01016.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01017.jpg[/img]
Lots of Maters on one limb:
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01018.jpg[/img]
Heres showing where one of my Mater plants just started shriveling up(on the left):
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01019.jpg[/img]
[img]https://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j123/faithoffroad/House/Garden/DAL01020.jpg[/img]