[img]https://donce.lofthouse.com/jamaica/2lbcarrot.jpg[/img]
Did I show you this? The variety is Royal Chantenay. I like these carrots. They are short so they do well in my heavy ground. They will get large if let to grow all season. Even these large ones are sweet and tender.
- Gary350
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 7427
- Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2009 1:59 pm
- Location: TN. 50 years of gardening experience.
Looks good, I wish I could grow carrots like that. I have had pretty good luck with the Denver Half Long carrots if I plant them in the first week of Sept and let them grow all winter. I worked on my soil in one spot for planting carrots but it doesn't last long I have to work hard to get good carrots.
Speaking of "carrot sticks" . . . . My best carrot for not splitting this year was "Candy Sticks." Seed for that variety is no longer available - at least, I canNOT find it!Susan W wrote:. . . Thanks for sharing. Well, pic, not the carrot sticks...
Usually, I have serious problems with splitting and forking and growing ugly carrots. I have had these problems with any variety that is in the ground for more than a couple of months. In other words, I can grow baby carrots for summer, fairly well. Royal Chantenay had just as much trouble making it to autumn harvest as most of the others I've tried.
My garden soil can best be described as "gravelly." But, I think that nematodes may have a hand in messing up my carrots, too.
Any idea on how I can grow better carrots in 2011??
Steve
- jal_ut
- Super Green Thumb
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- Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:20 pm
- Location: Northern Utah Zone 5
I only spring plant carrots. I can't seem to get them to germinate any other time. Early spring is good, as soon as you can get on your ground.
The soil needs to be loose and free from rocks and gravel to get good shaped carrots. Hard ground and/or rocks, will result in lots of odd shapes.
I think splitting is caused by the soil getting too dry, then a good watering. They will soak up water until they split. Try to avoid letting the soil get too dry.
This carrot was planted in early April and harvested about mid October. If you want large carrots, you need to thin them too.
The soil needs to be loose and free from rocks and gravel to get good shaped carrots. Hard ground and/or rocks, will result in lots of odd shapes.
I think splitting is caused by the soil getting too dry, then a good watering. They will soak up water until they split. Try to avoid letting the soil get too dry.
This carrot was planted in early April and harvested about mid October. If you want large carrots, you need to thin them too.
Yeah, I have to hit the sowing window just right to get good germination and have the seedlings start off well. Sowing seed about the 3rd week in April usually works best.
All the gravel doesn't just act as "obstacles" for the carrots to grow around. It also acts to drain away soil moisture. Irrigation and rain heads straight down!
Kind of fighting an uphill battle with carrots. And, continuing to plant lots of ground to them seems to be about the best way for me to have some .
Steve
All the gravel doesn't just act as "obstacles" for the carrots to grow around. It also acts to drain away soil moisture. Irrigation and rain heads straight down!
Kind of fighting an uphill battle with carrots. And, continuing to plant lots of ground to them seems to be about the best way for me to have some .
Steve
So, you don't think glacial till is the best, Garden5? !
Generally, I've got the garden space and much of that has been deeply cultivated over the years. Still, there's an enormous amount of gravel. Some areas of one garden will look like I'm using a stone mulch after the sprinklers have run on it a time or two. At best, it is pea gravel.
Carrots grow so densely that it wouldn't take all that much work to have better roots. I have a screen that fits over the wheelbarrow and use it for soil mixes going into larger containers . . . when I don't want to spend a lot of $$ on potting soil.
Gotta add the cost of the wear and tear on garden gloves, tho'. Of course, gravel for the driveway can offset that . . .
Steve
Generally, I've got the garden space and much of that has been deeply cultivated over the years. Still, there's an enormous amount of gravel. Some areas of one garden will look like I'm using a stone mulch after the sprinklers have run on it a time or two. At best, it is pea gravel.
Carrots grow so densely that it wouldn't take all that much work to have better roots. I have a screen that fits over the wheelbarrow and use it for soil mixes going into larger containers . . . when I don't want to spend a lot of $$ on potting soil.
Gotta add the cost of the wear and tear on garden gloves, tho'. Of course, gravel for the driveway can offset that . . .
Steve
That's a good idea, Digits. You could just trench out an area where you want to have your carrots and fill it with screened topsoil. That would work good, as well.
If you get a lot of pea-gravel. You could fill a couple of buckets and offer to trade it for a new pair of gloves :p.
Good idea, though.
If you get a lot of pea-gravel. You could fill a couple of buckets and offer to trade it for a new pair of gloves :p.
Good idea, though.