Hello Forum,
I am a newcomer here, I recently bought my first house, I'm 28, and until the last year I've never cared for anything that didn't grow in a little pot. Now I have several trees, and a dozen or more bushes and flowering plants. Keeping up with it all has been a bit overwhelming for me, and I think that I've painted myself into a corner with a peach tree.
We bought our house last spring, and the tree was already a year old. It produced its first fruit last summer. At the time, I did not realize how much attention peaches need to develop a stable shape, and so I didn't make any serious attempt to shape it (It basically grew wild since last spring). I also didn't know that I should have pinched out some of the buds, so it produced quite a lot of fruit. Now it seems to be tilting precariously to the right (see photo, taken in december).
I'm concerned that when it produces fruit again this year, the weight of the fruit might pull it down. To avoid this, I was thinking I should take drastic action and cut the rightmost branches where indicated. I'm hoping that this will encourage the tree to rebalance itself and grow more on the left (or at least, not tip over). I'm also going to trim the tall branches in the middle, and of course, clip off all of the little sucker branches.
Before I do this, I wanted to find out from experienced folks if this is a sensible idea, or if there is a better way that I can reshape this tree. I don't want to cut too much and end up hurting the tree instead. The best thing would of course have been to shape it properly last spring, but alas, I can't wind back the clock.
Thanks in advance for your help,
Josh Barczak
[img]https://myimgs.net/images/yzmx.jpg[/img]
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Pippin Limbertwig
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Hi Josh,
First a warning - I'm about to pull out and burn my peach tree. I've picked up a little knowledge along the way - but am still a beginner.
Your peach is older than you think. The basic shape of three leaders is good - but it looks like they all leave the trunk at the same place? If they do, that is where you could get a split.
Peaches fruit on last year's growth - so you'll want to save some.
I'd cut a little further out than your lower arrow. On the top arrow I would be really aggressive. Get rid of secondaries that will shade the lower branches and limit the tendency to grow tall. I would make some heading cuts on the left side maybe two feet from the trunk - it will help thicken that scaffold if you leave its side shoots on for this season. Remove them at the end of summer (except a couple to fruit.)
I'd remove the young branches coming out of the trunk near where the scaffolds start.
What's going on at the graft scar and 2/3rds of the way up the trunk?
Good luck - hope you don't get a late frost.
First a warning - I'm about to pull out and burn my peach tree. I've picked up a little knowledge along the way - but am still a beginner.
Your peach is older than you think. The basic shape of three leaders is good - but it looks like they all leave the trunk at the same place? If they do, that is where you could get a split.
Peaches fruit on last year's growth - so you'll want to save some.
I'd cut a little further out than your lower arrow. On the top arrow I would be really aggressive. Get rid of secondaries that will shade the lower branches and limit the tendency to grow tall. I would make some heading cuts on the left side maybe two feet from the trunk - it will help thicken that scaffold if you leave its side shoots on for this season. Remove them at the end of summer (except a couple to fruit.)
I'd remove the young branches coming out of the trunk near where the scaffolds start.
What's going on at the graft scar and 2/3rds of the way up the trunk?
Good luck - hope you don't get a late frost.
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Ozark Lady
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Thanks Pippin,
I also need to prune a peach tree.
It was planted in 2004. It has fruited once, the frost got it last year... a late ice storm, and frozen blooms just does not help.
It got alot of damage in that storm. And I haven't repaired it yet. And it has only been half-heartedly pruned for it's whole life.
I am even suspicious that the graft might have taken over, since I honestly can't find it.
But, one way or another the tree is alot taller than me, and difficult to reach the top branches.
Can you identify the difference in a growth bud and fruiting bud?
Also can you cut one back by 1/3 or is that too much?
I also need to prune a peach tree.
It was planted in 2004. It has fruited once, the frost got it last year... a late ice storm, and frozen blooms just does not help.
It got alot of damage in that storm. And I haven't repaired it yet. And it has only been half-heartedly pruned for it's whole life.
I am even suspicious that the graft might have taken over, since I honestly can't find it.
But, one way or another the tree is alot taller than me, and difficult to reach the top branches.
Can you identify the difference in a growth bud and fruiting bud?
Also can you cut one back by 1/3 or is that too much?
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Pippin Limbertwig
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Hey Ozark Lady,
I found some really good pictures of growth stages of various fruits - including the peach buds at - [url]https://web1.msue.msu.edu/fruit/pchgrw.htm[/url] - which is Michigan State University (Cooperative Extension).
Basically fruit buds are chubby and look more complex.
Not pruning mine hard enough to remove damage after a late spring ice storm is what caused my tree to weaken. Allowing it to set too many fruit and then not supporting the branch caused a split crotch. Experience is a hard teacher.
1/3 seems to be a safe amount of pruning for most species - it will cause more leaf growth and low quality fruit the following season (don't give it any nitrogen to minimize the effect).
Too little pruning might be more damaging that too much. Be brave. Good luck.
I found some really good pictures of growth stages of various fruits - including the peach buds at - [url]https://web1.msue.msu.edu/fruit/pchgrw.htm[/url] - which is Michigan State University (Cooperative Extension).
Basically fruit buds are chubby and look more complex.
Not pruning mine hard enough to remove damage after a late spring ice storm is what caused my tree to weaken. Allowing it to set too many fruit and then not supporting the branch caused a split crotch. Experience is a hard teacher.
1/3 seems to be a safe amount of pruning for most species - it will cause more leaf growth and low quality fruit the following season (don't give it any nitrogen to minimize the effect).
Too little pruning might be more damaging that too much. Be brave. Good luck.
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Ozark Lady
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After you mentioned the three forks all coming out at one point... I looked yikes, I have that too. About 18" above ground, I am considering removing one of them, and making a nice branch on the strongest fork as the third limb, which is the one that took damage, when the top of the walnut tree came down on it. I can cut that limb off at about half it's lenth and it will still be long enough to have lots of branches.
It is absolutely covered with big fat buds, and a few small buds. Nothing green showing at this point. Gotta do it soon!
Yes, the year it fruited, I was busy propping up limbs. and it did okay, fruit was good.
I happen to like to eat green peaches, so if it sets fruit too heavy, I can prune the excess, happily!
It is absolutely covered with big fat buds, and a few small buds. Nothing green showing at this point. Gotta do it soon!
Yes, the year it fruited, I was busy propping up limbs. and it did okay, fruit was good.
I happen to like to eat green peaches, so if it sets fruit too heavy, I can prune the excess, happily!
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applestar
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jbarczak, before you make that cut, I want to relay something that I've read, here on the forum and also in my other readings, that, in all honesty, I'm still scratching my head over but is apparently true:
You want to MORE aggressively CUT the branch that you WANT to have grow more strongly, and only lightly prune the side that you DON'T want to grow. Huh? Sounds completely opposite doesn't it?
I haven't needed to apply this technique to my trees yet, not really, but I have seen this mentioned time and time again in pruning books.
Another technique to slow down the growth of a branch is to force it to grow more level to the ground. This stimulates more fruiting and less growth. Whatever part of the tree that is highest up is most stimulated to grow. So I think when you prune, you need to keep that in mind as well.
With my semi-dwarf apple tree and with my free-form apple and pear espaliers, I have been doing a lot of pulling down shooting branches to be more level to the ground. With thinner pliable last year's branches, I tie on a thin bamboo cane with strips of cloth and then tie down the cane with string. With thicker branches I use cut up old watering hose strung with haybale string, so the string doesn't cut into the bark.
With peaches, my understanding is that you want to grow them in the open vase shape. My little peach trees are 1 and 2 years old so I have a ways to go before seeing them as big as yours. Good luck.
p.s. Oh! I almost forgot! Whatever you prune, try bringing the cut branches inside, split the bottom ends and put in a vase of water. Sometimes, you can "force" the flower buds to open and bloom inside. I did this with apple, apricot, and plum branches last year and the kitchen (and the bathrooms) smelled glorious, not to mention dainty blossoms and the wonderful harbingers of spring.
You want to MORE aggressively CUT the branch that you WANT to have grow more strongly, and only lightly prune the side that you DON'T want to grow. Huh? Sounds completely opposite doesn't it?
I haven't needed to apply this technique to my trees yet, not really, but I have seen this mentioned time and time again in pruning books.
Another technique to slow down the growth of a branch is to force it to grow more level to the ground. This stimulates more fruiting and less growth. Whatever part of the tree that is highest up is most stimulated to grow. So I think when you prune, you need to keep that in mind as well.
With my semi-dwarf apple tree and with my free-form apple and pear espaliers, I have been doing a lot of pulling down shooting branches to be more level to the ground. With thinner pliable last year's branches, I tie on a thin bamboo cane with strips of cloth and then tie down the cane with string. With thicker branches I use cut up old watering hose strung with haybale string, so the string doesn't cut into the bark.
With peaches, my understanding is that you want to grow them in the open vase shape. My little peach trees are 1 and 2 years old so I have a ways to go before seeing them as big as yours. Good luck.
p.s. Oh! I almost forgot! Whatever you prune, try bringing the cut branches inside, split the bottom ends and put in a vase of water. Sometimes, you can "force" the flower buds to open and bloom inside. I did this with apple, apricot, and plum branches last year and the kitchen (and the bathrooms) smelled glorious, not to mention dainty blossoms and the wonderful harbingers of spring.
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Tom the Elder
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JBARCZAK,
Take heart. I seem to have the pruners equivalent of tone deafness. With the exception of obvious things like crossing branches, I just can't seem to figure out what to prune and what not to. But I have been getting huge peach crops from my two dwarfs for about 10 years. Where there is damage, that clearly needs to be fixed as soon as possible. But in my area (Zone 9) storm damage is exceeding rare.
I have had a lot of success with just letting everything grow until it is obvious what to prune. That strategy will result in way more fruit than the branches can support. The first few years I thinned the fruit and put supports under the major branches but still had broken branches, so I have learned to thin the fruit aggressively.
The bottom line is that appropriate pruning is the best approach. But if you find yourself with too much fruit, thin aggressively to be sure you don't break branches.
Take heart. I seem to have the pruners equivalent of tone deafness. With the exception of obvious things like crossing branches, I just can't seem to figure out what to prune and what not to. But I have been getting huge peach crops from my two dwarfs for about 10 years. Where there is damage, that clearly needs to be fixed as soon as possible. But in my area (Zone 9) storm damage is exceeding rare.
I have had a lot of success with just letting everything grow until it is obvious what to prune. That strategy will result in way more fruit than the branches can support. The first few years I thinned the fruit and put supports under the major branches but still had broken branches, so I have learned to thin the fruit aggressively.
The bottom line is that appropriate pruning is the best approach. But if you find yourself with too much fruit, thin aggressively to be sure you don't break branches.
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Pippin Limbertwig
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Applestar,
It doesn't make any more sense than cutting your hair to make it grow faster, does it?
The explanation I've been given is that the terminal bud has different hormones than the other buds, one that inhibits the growth of buds closer to the trunk - "apical dominance". When the terminal bud is removed the buds that were inhibited now start growing (waterspouts are from dormant buds) - the furthest out the branch grow the most.
The second step in thickening a branch is to keep lots of nutrients flowing by encouraging a lot of leaf growth the next season. So don't remove the side shoots on the same year as the terminal bud.
I've been told to think of two and only two types of pruning cuts. Heading (removing the terminal - and possibly a lot of wood, too) encourages growth - and thinning cuts when the twig or branch is removed back at a bigger - which don't stimulate the dormant buds.
Ozark Lady,
All of my hands-on pruning instruction has been on old apple trees - and not everything applies to other species. I'm told 60 degrees is the strongest branch angle - the one that split on my peach was almost horizontal.
I've never eaten a green peach - do you cook them or pickle them?
It doesn't make any more sense than cutting your hair to make it grow faster, does it?
The explanation I've been given is that the terminal bud has different hormones than the other buds, one that inhibits the growth of buds closer to the trunk - "apical dominance". When the terminal bud is removed the buds that were inhibited now start growing (waterspouts are from dormant buds) - the furthest out the branch grow the most.
The second step in thickening a branch is to keep lots of nutrients flowing by encouraging a lot of leaf growth the next season. So don't remove the side shoots on the same year as the terminal bud.
I've been told to think of two and only two types of pruning cuts. Heading (removing the terminal - and possibly a lot of wood, too) encourages growth - and thinning cuts when the twig or branch is removed back at a bigger - which don't stimulate the dormant buds.
Ozark Lady,
All of my hands-on pruning instruction has been on old apple trees - and not everything applies to other species. I'm told 60 degrees is the strongest branch angle - the one that split on my peach was almost horizontal.
I've never eaten a green peach - do you cook them or pickle them?
applestar wrote:jbarczak, before you make that cut, I want to relay something that I've read, here on the forum and also in my other readings, that, in all honesty, I'm still scratching my head over but is apparently true:
You want to MORE aggressively CUT the branch that you WANT to have grow more strongly, and only lightly prune the side that you DON'T want to grow. Huh? Sounds completely opposite doesn't it?
I haven't needed to apply this technique to my trees yet, not really, but I have seen this mentioned time and time again in pruning books.
Another technique to slow down the growth of a branch is to force it to grow more level to the ground. This stimulates more fruiting and less growth. Whatever part of the tree that is highest up is most stimulated to grow. So I think when you prune, you need to keep that in mind as well.
With my semi-dwarf apple tree and with my free-form apple and pear espaliers, I have been doing a lot of pulling down shooting branches to be more level to the ground.
Agree with you completely A.S.
The old rule was that growth will always follow the knife.
If you cut a strong shoot, that shoot will grow away even stronger, and the number two bud on that shoot will often break dormancy and grow away as well.
Better to remove the strong shoot completely and leave or shorten back the weak shoot. This will be more inclined to produce a spur and set fruit bud.
If you ever try to grow espalier trained trees you will find that this is the only way you can ever get them under control. Try and spur the strong shoots on them and you will have a cat's cradle in no time.
Tying down branches is the accepted way of slowing down fruit trees.
Apple and Pear to as near to the horizontal as possable and Plum a little higher. ( They are much more prone to cracking.)
As allways...much easier to do when the tree is young, much harder on mature trees.
Thanks everyone for the replies. It seems that there's good cause for me to prune almost everywhere. On the right, to keep that branch from breaking (but higher than I'd planned), on the left, more heavily to encourage growth there and balance, and in the middle, to prevent too much shade.
Pippin:
The black stuff on the trunk looks like it's sap that's oozed out and then hardened. Here's a closeup of the right branch, where my lower arrow is.
[img]https://myimgs.net/images/uiqy.jpg[/img]
Here's a better view of the tree. The three main branches are all coming out of the same point, and are more or less co-planar.
[img]https://myimgs.net/images/mcmk.jpg[/img]
Pippin:
The black stuff on the trunk looks like it's sap that's oozed out and then hardened. Here's a closeup of the right branch, where my lower arrow is.
[img]https://myimgs.net/images/uiqy.jpg[/img]
Here's a better view of the tree. The three main branches are all coming out of the same point, and are more or less co-planar.
[img]https://myimgs.net/images/mcmk.jpg[/img]
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Ozark Lady
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I did it! For better or worse. The damaged limb is cut above the damage.
Then I tried to simply remove all limbs that crossed back towards other limbs. Then I removed all the dinky little limbs that were like an inch or two apart, making it look like a bush. With the lower limbs clear, it almost looks like a tree now. I honestly didn't take anything big off, except for the damaged limb, and it had buds all up and down it.
I hope I wasn't too late, the apricot right beside it, has green buds that will open any day, I barely touched the apricot due to the buds.
But, I still removed the ones that were growing back towards the trunk.
Hope they both live! I pruned maybe 10% of the apricot and 20% of the peach, coward that I am.
Then I tried to simply remove all limbs that crossed back towards other limbs. Then I removed all the dinky little limbs that were like an inch or two apart, making it look like a bush. With the lower limbs clear, it almost looks like a tree now. I honestly didn't take anything big off, except for the damaged limb, and it had buds all up and down it.
I hope I wasn't too late, the apricot right beside it, has green buds that will open any day, I barely touched the apricot due to the buds.
But, I still removed the ones that were growing back towards the trunk.
Hope they both live! I pruned maybe 10% of the apricot and 20% of the peach, coward that I am.
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Pippin Limbertwig
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jbarczak -
The place where the sap is on the surface needs to be addressed - probably one insect bored in then aphids went for sap and fungus likes to follow them. I would remove all loose bark - and check for health of the wood underneath - maybe you can smother the problem with oil?
Jona will have a more authoritative answer... message him if he doesn't jump in.
Ozark lady - how do your trees look now?
The place where the sap is on the surface needs to be addressed - probably one insect bored in then aphids went for sap and fungus likes to follow them. I would remove all loose bark - and check for health of the wood underneath - maybe you can smother the problem with oil?
Jona will have a more authoritative answer... message him if he doesn't jump in.
Ozark lady - how do your trees look now?
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Ozark Lady
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The apricot just opened all the blooms this morning, it looks like an ornamental tree.
The peach tree will soon bloom it is showing lots of pink on the buds, so if the weather holds, I will get peaches this year.
I am looking for another apricot, it just is not self fruitful like the peach is.
I expected them to live for awhile, I am just concerned that pruning opens them up to disease.
I just can't get my head around it is okay to cut them! It just really scares me!
The peach tree will soon bloom it is showing lots of pink on the buds, so if the weather holds, I will get peaches this year.
I am looking for another apricot, it just is not self fruitful like the peach is.
I expected them to live for awhile, I am just concerned that pruning opens them up to disease.
I just can't get my head around it is okay to cut them! It just really scares me!
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Ozark Lady
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Ozark Lady
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Update on the apricot tree:
[img]https://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww281/Ozark_Lady/000_0139_phixr.jpg[/img]
A close up of the apricot, first time to set fruit.
[img]https://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww281/Ozark_Lady/000_0140_phixr.jpg[/img]
Peach tree has small peaches on it too, but it is in trouble of a different kind:
[img]https://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww281/Ozark_Lady/000_0141_phixr.jpg[/img]
Last year, the peach tree had a lot more tents on it, which we used cigarette lighters and burned out. But, I can't reach this one.
I keep wondering if the tree can support me, without damage if I just shimmy up it, and burn out that tent!
[img]https://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww281/Ozark_Lady/000_0139_phixr.jpg[/img]
A close up of the apricot, first time to set fruit.
[img]https://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww281/Ozark_Lady/000_0140_phixr.jpg[/img]
Peach tree has small peaches on it too, but it is in trouble of a different kind:
[img]https://i728.photobucket.com/albums/ww281/Ozark_Lady/000_0141_phixr.jpg[/img]
Last year, the peach tree had a lot more tents on it, which we used cigarette lighters and burned out. But, I can't reach this one.
I keep wondering if the tree can support me, without damage if I just shimmy up it, and burn out that tent!
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applestar
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Do you have *anything* that would reach that tent? Pole pruner? Access to high pressure waterhose or a tree sprayer with jet attachment? If you can wash the caterpillars off the tree, I'm sure your "girls" will be more than happy to search them out on the ground 
If you could just tear up the tent, it'll make life uncomfortable for them and expose the caterpillars to predatory wasps and birds. They'll also be forced to repair or make another tent -- all that silk comes out of them and (I think) would help to weaken them.
If you could just tear up the tent, it'll make life uncomfortable for them and expose the caterpillars to predatory wasps and birds. They'll also be forced to repair or make another tent -- all that silk comes out of them and (I think) would help to weaken them.
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Ozark Lady
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Hey, now why didn't I think of that?
I have Bt and a pump up sprayer, I should be able to get enough pressure in it to reach them, if not, I know hubby or one of the sons can.
I had requested a ladder, they are painters, and have all of them on jobs in progress. But, hubby forgets to grab one.
I want my own ladder
Whatever will I do when the mulberries get ripe? My boost for tree shimmying, burned up (the porch roof).
Hey blackberries are budding out, soon we will get the last cold blast of this season, and it is: Whistle... they are off and running, here comes the shovel out of the mothballs... rounding the corner is the hoe that is so notorious on weeds... tee hee
I think that I need to start watching racing again?
Okay, I will try the sprayer, if I still can't reach it... look out hubby, cause I am going to go get my own ladder and chain it here! ha ha
I want peaches, not raising it for bug food!
I have Bt and a pump up sprayer, I should be able to get enough pressure in it to reach them, if not, I know hubby or one of the sons can.
I had requested a ladder, they are painters, and have all of them on jobs in progress. But, hubby forgets to grab one.
I want my own ladder
Whatever will I do when the mulberries get ripe? My boost for tree shimmying, burned up (the porch roof).
Hey blackberries are budding out, soon we will get the last cold blast of this season, and it is: Whistle... they are off and running, here comes the shovel out of the mothballs... rounding the corner is the hoe that is so notorious on weeds... tee hee
I think that I need to start watching racing again?
Okay, I will try the sprayer, if I still can't reach it... look out hubby, cause I am going to go get my own ladder and chain it here! ha ha
I want peaches, not raising it for bug food!
I've thrown rocks at them myself.... 
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Ozark Lady
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I found a broken painters extension pole, it won't hold the brush anymore, but the broken, jagged metal on the end, sure wreaked havoc on the tent... ha ha
I had the pump up sprayer all filled and ready, and realized.
This isn't poison. It isn't going to kill them on contact.
So, fine, I threw the tent and worms on the ground, and just happily sprayed every leaf on both trees, come on eat one, I dare ya!!! ha ha.
I wasn't out of Bt yet, so every weed, every blackberry, even the locust that I hate so badly got sprayed... come eat some leaves!
My stupid chickens looked at the worms and ran the other way... some allies they were!
I really need new chickens when worms can bully them! Sheesh.
No tents in my fruit trees now though!!!
I had the pump up sprayer all filled and ready, and realized.
This isn't poison. It isn't going to kill them on contact.
So, fine, I threw the tent and worms on the ground, and just happily sprayed every leaf on both trees, come on eat one, I dare ya!!! ha ha.
I wasn't out of Bt yet, so every weed, every blackberry, even the locust that I hate so badly got sprayed... come eat some leaves!
My stupid chickens looked at the worms and ran the other way... some allies they were!
I really need new chickens when worms can bully them! Sheesh.
No tents in my fruit trees now though!!!
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applestar
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Ozark Lady, I want to -- gently -- remind you of your recent encounter with the power company death sprayers.
I understand that an element of GLEE was involved here, and I know how that feels
, but don't forget that Bt affects all caterpillars. I let Plantain grow in my lawn for the Buckeye butterfly larvae and Violets for the Hairstreaks and Frittillaries. Large clumps of 5 species of milkweed are, of course, for the Monarch butterfly larvae. Virginia Creeper moth larvae live in the Virgina Creepers, and Clearwing moth larvae live in the honey suckle. I could go on, but you get the picture.
I understand that an element of GLEE was involved here, and I know how that feels
, but don't forget that Bt affects all caterpillars. I let Plantain grow in my lawn for the Buckeye butterfly larvae and Violets for the Hairstreaks and Frittillaries. Large clumps of 5 species of milkweed are, of course, for the Monarch butterfly larvae. Virginia Creeper moth larvae live in the Virgina Creepers, and Clearwing moth larvae live in the honey suckle. I could go on, but you get the picture. -
Ozark Lady
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I only mixed up one gallon. And I sprayed the peach tree, the apricot tree, the garden seedlings, and then the blackberry and raspberry. When you consider that I have 20 acres, with about 100x 150' in my present garden, how far exactly do you assume that one gallon went?
I had a whole bottle of it. One gallon was not alot. It didn't even fully cover just one hedgerow around my garden. It did cover the trees, the seedlings, the berries, and stuff within a few feet of my fruit trees.
Also the Bt is only effective for about 3 days? short term and then it is gone. It does not have a residual that will keep on killing.
I agree though, it was more satisfying to burn them last year.
Just like it is less damaging to just cut the large trees in the right-of-way. Leave the brush for wildlife.
I know, I will get killed for this, but, to be honest: I don't like butterflies, I don't want to ever encourage one to be here. Now I don't actively try to kill them, but, I never would plant anything to encourage them. We all have our likes and dislikes, and I am patient with most insects etc, I just brush spiders out of the way when working, but I personally don't like butterflies. We all have our thing. And they just aren't my 'thing'.
I don't think any insect should be indiscriminately killed. But, if you dislike an insect, I see nothing wrong with just not encouraging it. I don't swat butterflies either, by the way. I just glare at them and wonder what mischief they just did.
I had a whole bottle of it. One gallon was not alot. It didn't even fully cover just one hedgerow around my garden. It did cover the trees, the seedlings, the berries, and stuff within a few feet of my fruit trees.
Also the Bt is only effective for about 3 days? short term and then it is gone. It does not have a residual that will keep on killing.
I agree though, it was more satisfying to burn them last year.
Just like it is less damaging to just cut the large trees in the right-of-way. Leave the brush for wildlife.
I know, I will get killed for this, but, to be honest: I don't like butterflies, I don't want to ever encourage one to be here. Now I don't actively try to kill them, but, I never would plant anything to encourage them. We all have our likes and dislikes, and I am patient with most insects etc, I just brush spiders out of the way when working, but I personally don't like butterflies. We all have our thing. And they just aren't my 'thing'.
I don't think any insect should be indiscriminately killed. But, if you dislike an insect, I see nothing wrong with just not encouraging it. I don't swat butterflies either, by the way. I just glare at them and wonder what mischief they just did.