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Seaweed and your Garden
I already know that adding seaweed to you garden increases the Nitrogen content in the soil but, does anyone know what other nutrients seaweed adds? Specifically pertaining to Red Algae (Rodophyta), Brown Algae (Phaeophyta) and Green Algae (Chlorophyta).
Thanks Newt,
The pages were/are very useful. Do you know of any pages/articles that describe the internal marcro.micromolecules of the Chloro, Rodo and Phaeophyta?
I don't know where you are from but, if you are ever on Vancouver Island, BC Canada, some spectacular examples of Calcareous Rodophytes exist at Botanical Beach near Port Renfrew.
The pages were/are very useful. Do you know of any pages/articles that describe the internal marcro.micromolecules of the Chloro, Rodo and Phaeophyta?
I don't know where you are from but, if you are ever on Vancouver Island, BC Canada, some spectacular examples of Calcareous Rodophytes exist at Botanical Beach near Port Renfrew.
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Hi Opabinia,
You are very welcome! Glad you found that useful. It was enjoyable doing the search.
I live in Maryland and have never been to B.C., but it's on my list! Lately I've been traveling to South America and they have some interesting fossils there as well! I noticed your name.
Regards,
Newt
You are very welcome! Glad you found that useful. It was enjoyable doing the search.
I think one of the links I gave you had some info on that, but I could be wrong. Maybe it was another site I had found. I'm trying to remember how I searched. Sorry, but I'm not feeling well and am not up to doing any searching at the moment.Do you know of any pages/articles that describe the internal marcro.micromolecules of the Chloro, Rodo and Phaeophyta?
I live in Maryland and have never been to B.C., but it's on my list! Lately I've been traveling to South America and they have some interesting fossils there as well! I noticed your name.
Regards,
Newt
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Cool, I'm surprised that you recognized my name. Most people have no clue what Opabinia is, or that it was found in the Burgess Shale (another place you should put on list of places to visit). I've yet to make it there but, I will someday.
We have a lot of great fossil sites here on Vancouver Island (and on the mainland as well.) There are cambrian Rocks on the Island but, they are all volcanics. There are some great plant fossils out of Nanaimo.
We have a lot of great fossil sites here on Vancouver Island (and on the mainland as well.) There are cambrian Rocks on the Island but, they are all volcanics. There are some great plant fossils out of Nanaimo.
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Potassium is sort of a hardiness and fruiting thang; with it you have strong healthy growth and without you get weak funky growth...
[url]https://www.loudzen.com/garden/soil/potassium.html[/url]
Opa this is general info and I doubt that will work well for you; I'd suggest further googling and we'd be happy to hear the results...
Scott
[url]https://www.loudzen.com/garden/soil/potassium.html[/url]
Opa this is general info and I doubt that will work well for you; I'd suggest further googling and we'd be happy to hear the results...
Scott
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Just found this information on a chart that I've had lying around for about a week:
Kelp is a dynamic accumulator that adds: Sodium, Iodine, Nitrogen, Calcium, Magnesium and Iron to your garden. Kelp and other seeweeds also contain significant amounts of Pot Ash also known as K2O4 or something the like. The short of the long about potash is that it is a Potassium compound that once broken down; adds Potassium to your soil!
Thanks Scott for the info on Potassium!!!
Another great Dynamic Accumulator is coltsfood; adding Boron, Magnesium and Calcium to your soil.
Flaxseed apparently adds Calcium to your soil. I think the best bet would be to grind the seeds up into a flour and spread that on your tomatoe beds but, I use it in my Breads (like the Roti that I made tonight!).
Apparently, Eastern Bracken (obviously after being mulched) adds: Potassium, Phosphorus, Manganese, Copper and Cobalt to the soil.
The list goes on, and on, and on. If anyone is curious about any sort of plant and what it adds to the soil after decomposition just ask. I'll see if it is here.
Kelp is a dynamic accumulator that adds: Sodium, Iodine, Nitrogen, Calcium, Magnesium and Iron to your garden. Kelp and other seeweeds also contain significant amounts of Pot Ash also known as K2O4 or something the like. The short of the long about potash is that it is a Potassium compound that once broken down; adds Potassium to your soil!
Thanks Scott for the info on Potassium!!!
Another great Dynamic Accumulator is coltsfood; adding Boron, Magnesium and Calcium to your soil.
Flaxseed apparently adds Calcium to your soil. I think the best bet would be to grind the seeds up into a flour and spread that on your tomatoe beds but, I use it in my Breads (like the Roti that I made tonight!).
Apparently, Eastern Bracken (obviously after being mulched) adds: Potassium, Phosphorus, Manganese, Copper and Cobalt to the soil.
The list goes on, and on, and on. If anyone is curious about any sort of plant and what it adds to the soil after decomposition just ask. I'll see if it is here.
Last edited by opabinia51 on Mon Dec 20, 2004 7:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Here is a good website that has some tables showing nutrient (N, P, K) values for various fertilizeng agents:
https://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/text/fertilizing_tables.html
The site also has a wealth of information on trees but, you have to navigate back to the main menu from where this link takes you. It's a great site. May be quite useful for those undertaking bonsai.
https://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/trees-new/text/fertilizing_tables.html
The site also has a wealth of information on trees but, you have to navigate back to the main menu from where this link takes you. It's a great site. May be quite useful for those undertaking bonsai.
Last edited by opabinia51 on Sun Dec 12, 2004 3:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Thanks Scott. It wasn't any trouble, a guy from the Internet Bonsai Club gave me the link as I was looking for any information on Pruning/caring for Western Red Cedar. When I found the tables, I could think of not a better place to post them.
Cheers
Cheers
Last edited by opabinia51 on Tue Dec 28, 2004 4:53 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Back to seaweeds.... I have done a little research on Red Algaes with respect to what their pigments add to the soil. For anyone who is interested, pigments generally are proteins and the proteins in Red Algae are called Phycobillins. Anyway, one such protein (Phycocyanin) has the chemical formula of: C 165 H 185 N 20 O 30. from which, you can clearly see that Nitrogen and oxygen are added to the soil after the proteins are broken down.
The other red pigment is Phycoerythrin and it's chemical formula is: C4H11NO3 and therefore you can see that this pigment adds Nitrogen to the soil in the form of nitrates.
If anyone has any more information on the ions and other such nutrients that red algaes contribute to the soil, I would appreciate it.
The other red pigment is Phycoerythrin and it's chemical formula is: C4H11NO3 and therefore you can see that this pigment adds Nitrogen to the soil in the form of nitrates.
If anyone has any more information on the ions and other such nutrients that red algaes contribute to the soil, I would appreciate it.
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This doesn't have anything to do with Seaweed but, I just discovered this website:
https://www.cyber-north.com/
It is very useful and has vivid description accompanied with neat diagrams to aid the gardner. I personally don't agree with using salt based fertilizer (to any great extent) but, to each their own.
Just tried following that link through and it didn't go where it was supposed to go, I'll see if I can fix that.
https://www.cyber-north.com/
It is very useful and has vivid description accompanied with neat diagrams to aid the gardner. I personally don't agree with using salt based fertilizer (to any great extent) but, to each their own.
Just tried following that link through and it didn't go where it was supposed to go, I'll see if I can fix that.
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Couldn't really find a place that this fit into so, I decided that it would best fit here.
Here is a link with NPK ratios for various manures, wastes and what not. I personally don't put animal wastes (other than manure) in my garden (well, maybe the odd jellyfish ) as they tend to attract rats but,
Here is the link (it has manurs too):
https://www.primalseeds.org/kpnref.htm
Oh, and for that matter; the site also has listings for Jellyfish.
Here is a link with NPK ratios for various manures, wastes and what not. I personally don't put animal wastes (other than manure) in my garden (well, maybe the odd jellyfish ) as they tend to attract rats but,
Here is the link (it has manurs too):
https://www.primalseeds.org/kpnref.htm
Oh, and for that matter; the site also has listings for Jellyfish.
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Here is a link with information and nutrition tables for Kelp meals and Fish Meals.
https://www.noamkelp.com/nutrition.html
By the looks of things, it would be best to put Fish meals into your garden a month or so before planting due to the high Nitrogen content. Anyone have any experrience in using Fish meals?
I used Liquid fish fertilizer last year on my tomatoes and applied it directly with no problems but, I'm a little leary on putting the Fish meal on right before planting. Any information is welcome.
https://www.noamkelp.com/nutrition.html
By the looks of things, it would be best to put Fish meals into your garden a month or so before planting due to the high Nitrogen content. Anyone have any experrience in using Fish meals?
I used Liquid fish fertilizer last year on my tomatoes and applied it directly with no problems but, I'm a little leary on putting the Fish meal on right before planting. Any information is welcome.
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Since making this last post I have read that due to the high Nitrogen percentage in Fish Meal, it can burn the plants. I've since decided to just add a little of it to my Leaf Mold Tea. Just to boost the Nitrogen levels. I already use a liquid fish fertilizer once a week on my planted tomatoes (at least, I did last year) and had no ill effects. The plants grew really well.
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