Hi There,
I got patio lime tree about a month ago.
Since then I have noticed tree leaves turning yellow and dropping. Yellowing starts from the veins. It's both young and old leaves.
Have been using Google and have found nothing as normally it is leaf turning yellow and veins staying green.
I would say 70% on the flowers are also gone.
I have 3in1 moisture and pH meter. There should be enough water. PH is 7
Have anyone had same problem and what would fix it?
While I potted it I used Osmocote citrus and fruit slow release (6 month) fertiliser and little bit cow manure and compost.
I had leaf curling when I first brought tree but I used white oil and it seems to be cured.
I'm completely at loss what to do.
Thanks,
Laura
Lime tree leave veins turning yellow
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I have to admit I have never seen that before. However, I too found a possible explanation on the web that seems to fit. The yellow veins are a problem in winter and is a nitrogen deficiency. It also explains why there is no flowers either since flowers and fruit would need even more nitrogen. pH 7.0 does not help. A little miracle grow for acid loving plants (Azalea, rhododendron food, formerly Miracid) might help. Half strength weekly. Repotting in peat lite and staying away from organic potting mixes and fertilizers for a while might help too.
https://deepgreenpermaculture.com/2018/ ... in-winter/
https://deepgreenpermaculture.com/2018/ ... in-winter/
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pepperhead212
- Super Green Thumb
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- Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 1:52 pm
- Location: Woodbury NJ Zone 7a/7b
I have 2 kaffir lime trees that I need to bring inside every cold season, and usually they get a few leaves with some yellow veins, later in the winter, but usually not many. I try to add a little iron, and a little epsom salts, plus the regular fertilizer I use - a hydroponics mix, for vegetative growth, which is what I'm looking for, but you can try a bloom booster of some sort, too. Once they are back out in the sun, come spring, they take off!
What size pot do you have that in? I started way back with a 4 gal. plastic pot, and eventually needed larger ones; the oldest (just over 20 years old) is in a 14 gal fabric pot, the youngest in a 10 gal, get trimmed way back when re-potted, both the roots and the top, and it takes almost no time to show incredible new growth.
The only fertilizer I put in the pots is some worm castings - about 20%, to 20% perlite, and the rest peat and coir. The fertilizer is just that hydro mix, occasionally, and occasionally a foliar spray in the summer, when fertilizing some of the things in the garden, but that's seldom.
Here's the latest photo, showing how bright green these get:
Kaffir lime tree, even larger than the curry tree this year! 9-24-21 by pepperhead212, on Flickr
What size pot do you have that in? I started way back with a 4 gal. plastic pot, and eventually needed larger ones; the oldest (just over 20 years old) is in a 14 gal fabric pot, the youngest in a 10 gal, get trimmed way back when re-potted, both the roots and the top, and it takes almost no time to show incredible new growth.
The only fertilizer I put in the pots is some worm castings - about 20%, to 20% perlite, and the rest peat and coir. The fertilizer is just that hydro mix, occasionally, and occasionally a foliar spray in the summer, when fertilizing some of the things in the garden, but that's seldom.
Here's the latest photo, showing how bright green these get:
Kaffir lime tree, even larger than the curry tree this year! 9-24-21 by pepperhead212, on Flickr-
pepperhead212
- Super Green Thumb
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- Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2014 1:52 pm
- Location: Woodbury NJ Zone 7a/7b
I had to order the grafted kaffir lime I have. Thai food was not popular then and I had to go to town to the Asian market to get 3 leaves for 75 cents. Now, I could get a bag full for $2.50. They still are not that easy to find outside of an Asian market. The second Kaffir lime I have, I bought from a nursery. I was lucky they only had one and it did not look that good, but I took what I could get. I have grown kaffir lime from seeds. The limes don't produce a lot of seeds 0-4 seeds, mostly zero, but they sprout well. They just don't live that long if they are not grafted. The older one of mine is over 30 years old the other is only about 25.
My problem now is that I cannot grow genovese basil because of basil downy mildew. Thai Queen basil will grow enough to harvest even though it is also affected by downy mildew. The Kapoor basil grows well and is resistant along with the African and other holy basil, but I am not used to the taste of it. Otherwise, I do have the basic spices for Thai recipes: lemon grass, hot peppers, kaffir lime leaves, galangal ( I use ginger, it is easier to harvest). Before, I could have Thai food anytime because I could just go out in the yard to get the basil and peppers that are pretty much in every recipe. I buy the red thai paste instead of making it. It lasts a very long time. The Thai basil does not substitute well in Italian recipes. It tastes very different more licorice and clove in the Thai basil.
My problem now is that I cannot grow genovese basil because of basil downy mildew. Thai Queen basil will grow enough to harvest even though it is also affected by downy mildew. The Kapoor basil grows well and is resistant along with the African and other holy basil, but I am not used to the taste of it. Otherwise, I do have the basic spices for Thai recipes: lemon grass, hot peppers, kaffir lime leaves, galangal ( I use ginger, it is easier to harvest). Before, I could have Thai food anytime because I could just go out in the yard to get the basil and peppers that are pretty much in every recipe. I buy the red thai paste instead of making it. It lasts a very long time. The Thai basil does not substitute well in Italian recipes. It tastes very different more licorice and clove in the Thai basil.
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BloomingBrilliant
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Yellowing leaves with green veins is a common symptom of nutrient deficiency, specifically iron deficiency. This can be caused by a number of factors, including:
Soil pH: Lime trees prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. If your soil is too alkaline, it can prevent the tree from taking up iron from the soil.
Watering: Overwatering or underwatering can also cause nutrient deficiencies. Overwatering can leach nutrients from the soil, while underwatering can stress the tree and make it more susceptible to nutrient deficiencies.
Fertilizer: While you have fertilized your tree, it may not be getting enough iron. You can use a chelated iron fertilizer, which is specially formulated to be absorbed by plants.
Here are some steps you can take to help your tree recover:
Adjust soil pH: If your soil pH is too high, you can lower it by adding sulfur to the soil. Follow the instructions on the sulfur product for the correct amount to use.
Water deeply and infrequently: Water the tree deeply when the top inch of soil is dry to the touch. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings.
Apply chelated iron fertilizer: Follow the instructions on the fertilizer product for the correct amount to use.
In addition to these steps, you can also help your tree by:
Pruning away any dead or diseased leaves: This will help to conserve the tree's energy and prevent the spread of disease.
Protecting the tree from pests and diseases: Keep the tree clean and free of debris, and watch for signs of pests or diseases.
With proper care, your patio lime tree should recover!
Soil pH: Lime trees prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. If your soil is too alkaline, it can prevent the tree from taking up iron from the soil.
Watering: Overwatering or underwatering can also cause nutrient deficiencies. Overwatering can leach nutrients from the soil, while underwatering can stress the tree and make it more susceptible to nutrient deficiencies.
Fertilizer: While you have fertilized your tree, it may not be getting enough iron. You can use a chelated iron fertilizer, which is specially formulated to be absorbed by plants.
Here are some steps you can take to help your tree recover:
Adjust soil pH: If your soil pH is too high, you can lower it by adding sulfur to the soil. Follow the instructions on the sulfur product for the correct amount to use.
Water deeply and infrequently: Water the tree deeply when the top inch of soil is dry to the touch. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings.
Apply chelated iron fertilizer: Follow the instructions on the fertilizer product for the correct amount to use.
In addition to these steps, you can also help your tree by:
Pruning away any dead or diseased leaves: This will help to conserve the tree's energy and prevent the spread of disease.
Protecting the tree from pests and diseases: Keep the tree clean and free of debris, and watch for signs of pests or diseases.
With proper care, your patio lime tree should recover!
I thought of another reason especially since the yellowing is around the midrib and veins which is not how a nutrient deficiency presents. Look under the leaf for signs of pest. sucking pests like scale and thrips can also cause yellowing. When plants are in distress, pests take advantage. I would still correct the pH and nutrient issues. A healthy plant is always going to be the best defense.