Hello,
We moved to OH the end of Nov. There are some fruit trees on the property with netting on them. Should we remove the netting before spring?
Fruit trees with netting?
- Attachments
-
-
applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30551
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Hello and welcome to the forum!
I want to give you my immediate thoughts from seeing the photo you attached, but there may be other factors that would inform such as whether you know what these fruit trees are?
So, looking at these young trees, the trunk protectors are absolutely essential in an open field like this because rodents and rabbits will chew up the lower bark of the trunk during the winter months, and could kill the trees if they are girdled (completely stripped all around).
The netting is a bit of a mystery — when did you move in? November? If these were up in the fall, it’s possible they might have been intentionally placed to protect from deer, for example.
They all need some dedicated care, and in Ohio, you are probably approaching the time for the end of winter early spring seasonal chore of pruning, weeding/mulching, and first spring fertilizing.
But although there are some universal tasks, pruning is particularly dependent on what kind of fruit trees and even what cultivar/variety.
Best time to start thinking about pruning is when the maple sugaring season is ending — no more rollercoaster of freezing nights-vs-mild days and no more freezing daytime temps. About mid 40’s or above. You want to start pruning apples and pears around then.
The advice from a member orchardist is to wait to prune stone fruits until they start leafing out so the bark doesn’t slip as easily and active sap flow helps to protect from wounds becoming infected.
Obviously, you will need to remove the netting when pruning.
Netting could also restrain the new spring growths and/or pull blossoms and leaves that manage to grow through the netting off if they flap in the wind or otherwise are pulled on. (These are likely to entangle birds’ feet, too)
I would anticipate it would be impossible to remove without causing damage once the spring buds soften — as it is, if they get caught in the tightly closed buds, you could probably free them up without yanking or tearing them off.
Again, if they were meant to protect from winter animal damage, you would have to consider alternative methods — do you see deer, etc. out there? Other wildlife? You might have to give some thought into some kind of fencing. Try to identify local animal/wildlife activity as spring approaches and they start waking up/become more active.
Once you yourself begin working among them more frequently, that might help to deter their activity.
Another task you will want to get started once the ground thaws is to remove sod and weeds in a circle around each tree — probably at least 3 feet wide… possibly as much as 2 feet radius/4 ft diameter, and mulch with something like good compost, composted manure, (possibly additional fertilizer) and shredded bark or ground up root mulch.
Depending on how much rain you typically get, you may or may not want to shape the circle into a shallow basin, or surround with a moat….
I want to give you my immediate thoughts from seeing the photo you attached, but there may be other factors that would inform such as whether you know what these fruit trees are?
So, looking at these young trees, the trunk protectors are absolutely essential in an open field like this because rodents and rabbits will chew up the lower bark of the trunk during the winter months, and could kill the trees if they are girdled (completely stripped all around).
The netting is a bit of a mystery — when did you move in? November? If these were up in the fall, it’s possible they might have been intentionally placed to protect from deer, for example.
They all need some dedicated care, and in Ohio, you are probably approaching the time for the end of winter early spring seasonal chore of pruning, weeding/mulching, and first spring fertilizing.
But although there are some universal tasks, pruning is particularly dependent on what kind of fruit trees and even what cultivar/variety.
Best time to start thinking about pruning is when the maple sugaring season is ending — no more rollercoaster of freezing nights-vs-mild days and no more freezing daytime temps. About mid 40’s or above. You want to start pruning apples and pears around then.
The advice from a member orchardist is to wait to prune stone fruits until they start leafing out so the bark doesn’t slip as easily and active sap flow helps to protect from wounds becoming infected.
Obviously, you will need to remove the netting when pruning.
Netting could also restrain the new spring growths and/or pull blossoms and leaves that manage to grow through the netting off if they flap in the wind or otherwise are pulled on. (These are likely to entangle birds’ feet, too)
I would anticipate it would be impossible to remove without causing damage once the spring buds soften — as it is, if they get caught in the tightly closed buds, you could probably free them up without yanking or tearing them off.
Again, if they were meant to protect from winter animal damage, you would have to consider alternative methods — do you see deer, etc. out there? Other wildlife? You might have to give some thought into some kind of fencing. Try to identify local animal/wildlife activity as spring approaches and they start waking up/become more active.
Once you yourself begin working among them more frequently, that might help to deter their activity.
Another task you will want to get started once the ground thaws is to remove sod and weeds in a circle around each tree — probably at least 3 feet wide… possibly as much as 2 feet radius/4 ft diameter, and mulch with something like good compost, composted manure, (possibly additional fertilizer) and shredded bark or ground up root mulch.
Depending on how much rain you typically get, you may or may not want to shape the circle into a shallow basin, or surround with a moat….
Wow! So much good info! I’m going to print this up! Thank you!!!
I am not sure what trees they are. I recall hearing apple, pear, and peach? I think they are 2 years old. We do have deer for sure. So you’re saying to remove the netting ASAP?
We have lows in the 20s still. Highs are all over the place—up to 70 this week even, but then 30s another day. We have not learned this part of the country, and we are clueless about fruit trees. Would be nice to not kill them!
I am not sure what trees they are. I recall hearing apple, pear, and peach? I think they are 2 years old. We do have deer for sure. So you’re saying to remove the netting ASAP?
We have lows in the 20s still. Highs are all over the place—up to 70 this week even, but then 30s another day. We have not learned this part of the country, and we are clueless about fruit trees. Would be nice to not kill them!
-
applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30551
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Yeah, I recommend you go try with one of the trees to see how the netting handles. In my experience, it can be pretty nerve wracking.
Easier when the buds are still winter tight and hard to pull off, it will be more forgiving — tedious to unhook the netting but buds will stay put, and then much more delicate operation as they become plump and looser.
Personally, that kind of delicately careful, micro-detailed and repetitive task can turn me in to a nervous wreck. YMMV.
…Let me see if I got this right — someone correct me if I’m wrong — Generally speaking, typical order of blooming should be PLUMS, PEACHES / NECTARINES, CHERRIES, PEARS, then APPLES
Cherries and sometimes peaches would have horizontal bark markings.
It will be more likely that there could be only one peach but at least two or more of apples or pears… or cherries … for pollinization.
If you post photos of individual entire tree for branch structures and then a closeup of the bark, then we might be able to help ID the trees. (Grey smooth bark is most likely to be pear, and good likelihood orange cast in bark is peach, for example.)
Easier when the buds are still winter tight and hard to pull off, it will be more forgiving — tedious to unhook the netting but buds will stay put, and then much more delicate operation as they become plump and looser.
Personally, that kind of delicately careful, micro-detailed and repetitive task can turn me in to a nervous wreck. YMMV.
…Let me see if I got this right — someone correct me if I’m wrong — Generally speaking, typical order of blooming should be PLUMS, PEACHES / NECTARINES, CHERRIES, PEARS, then APPLES
Cherries and sometimes peaches would have horizontal bark markings.
It will be more likely that there could be only one peach but at least two or more of apples or pears… or cherries … for pollinization.
If you post photos of individual entire tree for branch structures and then a closeup of the bark, then we might be able to help ID the trees. (Grey smooth bark is most likely to be pear, and good likelihood orange cast in bark is peach, for example.)