Apple tree leaves turning brown
One of my 2 apple trees have got some of the leaves turning brown that I have removed now but I am unsure of the cause I know apples suffer from a lot of diseases so I'm debating wether to burn this one as I don't want my apple or other fruit getting problems. The tree in question has grown lots in height but it hasn't flowered like the other one has.
Without a picture it would just be guessing Ben.
If the leaves were crimping up and dying, then the odds are that it was a canker problem.
Diseases like scab make misshapen brown spots on the leaves first.
Take a photo of the tree if you can.....and cut one of the shoots that had the brown leaves on and see if there is any signs of brown staining under the Cambium layer.
If the leaves were crimping up and dying, then the odds are that it was a canker problem.
Diseases like scab make misshapen brown spots on the leaves first.
Take a photo of the tree if you can.....and cut one of the shoots that had the brown leaves on and see if there is any signs of brown staining under the Cambium layer.
That looks like scab Ben.
Spraying with sulphur or a commercial product for scab control will keep the tree clean.
The sprays stop the spores of scab from germinating, so they are protectors ...not eradicators.
This means that you have to keep a regular spray programme going during the growing season so that new leaf gets protected as it grows.
The spores spread in warm, damp periods known as Mills Periods.
Scab will effect the fruit as well, causing brown scabs to form on the skin of the fruit. It's only skin deep though and the fruit is still fine to eat.
Pears can be attacked by it too.
Spraying with sulphur or a commercial product for scab control will keep the tree clean.
The sprays stop the spores of scab from germinating, so they are protectors ...not eradicators.
This means that you have to keep a regular spray programme going during the growing season so that new leaf gets protected as it grows.
The spores spread in warm, damp periods known as Mills Periods.
Scab will effect the fruit as well, causing brown scabs to form on the skin of the fruit. It's only skin deep though and the fruit is still fine to eat.
Pears can be attacked by it too.
Afraid burning the tree will not stop scab appearing Ben.
If you grow apples or pears and you don't protect them....you will finish up with some amount of scab.
There are some varieties are more resistant than others. Most modern vars are susceptible though, as breeders concentrate more on looks, sweetness and taste, as these are the fruits that sell.
If you grow apples or pears and you don't protect them....you will finish up with some amount of scab.
There are some varieties are more resistant than others. Most modern vars are susceptible though, as breeders concentrate more on looks, sweetness and taste, as these are the fruits that sell.
Although there is a fungal infection called scab for both cherry and peach Ben, it is not the same pathogen that attacks apples and pears.
Afraid I do not know how effective the Vitax is against scab.
Mind you....sulphur is regarded as organic...but whatever you use there will be a recommended harvest interval for it.
In most cases scab spraying would end by mid July as the risk of fresh infection after that is regarded as low.
One thing that can help a lot too is a heavy spray of high nitrogen after harvest..something like Urea. This is taken in by the leaf and beside giving the tree a late boost it encourages quick dessication of the leaves at the fall so that any scab spores are not left on the ground for a long time as the leaves slowly rot.
Afraid I do not know how effective the Vitax is against scab.
Mind you....sulphur is regarded as organic...but whatever you use there will be a recommended harvest interval for it.
In most cases scab spraying would end by mid July as the risk of fresh infection after that is regarded as low.
One thing that can help a lot too is a heavy spray of high nitrogen after harvest..something like Urea. This is taken in by the leaf and beside giving the tree a late boost it encourages quick dessication of the leaves at the fall so that any scab spores are not left on the ground for a long time as the leaves slowly rot.