How to Prepare Soil and Best Apple Trees for Minnesota?

[parker34]

Hello
We have a plot of land in Northern Minnesota. This last weekend, I cleared a 15x30 foot clearing through some of the thickest underbrush on our land. Next year, I plan on planting something for the deer and other critters to munch on, probably some clover or something.
I also want to plant an apple tree in that new clearing and/or in another area. I know the deer will eat the apples and we have those trail cameras that take pics when something steps in front of it, love those pics. The field is probably 20 yards from a shallow creek so water shouldn't be an issue

Questions.
What should I do to prepare the soil for the tree? Again, I just cleared the brush from the site, so I am sure that there is alot of roots in the soil that might be an issue. I just want to give the tree the best chance to do well and have the soil as good as it can be ahead of time.

What type of apple tree would be best for Minnesota woods?
when should the tree be planted? Care,maintenance, protection? Should I fence it in for protection until it is bigger?

Maybe thats a good start for now.. Any other suggestions would be great too!

Thanks!
Parker

[rainbowgardener]

I don't grow apples, so can't help too much. But re: Should I fence it in for protection until it is bigger?


If deer are an issue, absolutely YES. The deer don't just eat the apples, they love to eat seedling/ young trees and will nibble it down to a stub.

[j3707]

Hi Parker -

I'm no expert, but here's my two cents...

You'll need at least two varieties for cross-pollinization, either two varieties grafted on one tree or two separate trees.

You would want to build a fence around the trees until the branches were above deer browsing height, the deer will mutilate it.

I wouldn't do much to prepare the soil personally. Get a bare-root tree, put it in the hole with native soil and add some compost on top. Mulch it a ways around so other wild plants can't crowd it while its getting established.

Whether you plant semi-dwarf or full-size depends on the space you have. Do they have to stay within that 15x30 plot or can the canopy stretch out past it?

Honeycrisp was developed by the University of Minnesota and it's an outstanding apple. For a full size tree consider going with Antonovka rootstock.

[parker34]

Thanks for the input. I'll put deer fencing on my list then!

Forgive me 3707, why would I need 2 Varietiest for cross polination? Not sure how that all works. I just thought the bugs, did all the polination from one tree and that was it.. Then again I don't know anything about fruit trees.

The trees canopy can stretch as far as it needs.. I can always take out the brush hog and make some more room for them

Any particular time of year I should be planting the trees?

Thanks again!

Parker

[DoubleDogFarm]

Crab apple makes a good cross pollinator.

https://www.spokane-county.wsu.edu/spoka ... s%2005.pdf

Eric

[tomc]

I'd plant a crab apple for the fruits ability to make pectin (and to fertilize the apple). I get a northern spy from St. Lawrence Nursery.

I'd lay on and spade in a couple hundred weight of bark mulch for slow to decompose fertilizer.

I would fence in with chicken wire and stakes both trees. Till trees get bigger.

Drop fruit will become an autumnal mast-food for deer. Some states consider this salting (baiting) a field, so if you hunt know how fish & game feels about this.

I'm sending you to St Lawrence both for their northern hearty selections and the fact that McKently plants on standard root-stock which make a tree big enough for you and deer to eat.

[j3707]

Thanks for the input. I'll put deer fencing on my list then!

Forgive me 3707, why would I need 2 Varietiest for cross polination? Not sure how that all works. I just thought the bugs, did all the polination from one tree and that was it.. Then again I don't know anything about fruit trees.

The trees canopy can stretch as far as it needs.. I can always take out the brush hog and make some more room for them

Any particular time of year I should be planting the trees?

Thanks again!

Parker

Most apple varieties cannot be pollinated with their own pollen, so the bugs and the bees have to carry pollen from variety 1 to variety 2 and vice versa. You want to make sure these 2 apple varieties have the same bloom period.

Check out an apple pollination chart, they are very useful! Here's an example in PDF format:

https://www.apples.msu.edu/pdf/appleBloomGuide.pdf

You'd get bare-root trees during dormant season, plant them before they start budding out in spring.

Sounds like you've got space for some full size trees if you want 'em! They will probably take a few more years to start fruiting than semi-dwarf though. It all depends on what you want. The full size tree will probably be more rugged.

Oh, and I would look to plant disease resistant varieties. See if you can find folks in your region to give you advice on what varieties do well.