Hi everyone,
I'm hoping you can help me determine whether I have enough space in my front yard to plant apple trees and, if so, what varieties you would recommend.
The space I have is about 20 feet by 25 feet. Do I need at least two trees, and is that enough space to fit two? What should I look for to make sure they will stay small enough to fit the space?
(One thing I'm confused about is: If a tree says it should be planted X feet apart, does that mean it also needs that much space between the trunk and the sidewalk?)
Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions.
Heather
Frederick, Maryland
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BeginningAppleGrower3238
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BeginningAppleGrower3238
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- Location: Frederick, Maryland
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applestar
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Apple trees are particularly receptive to pruning, so I think you have sufficient space to grow apples on dwarfing rootstock -- usually referred to as "dwarf" and "semi-dwarf" as opposed to "standard" full height. Same variety apple tree will grow to different sizes depending on what kind of rootstock they are grafted to. Any one of them can be pruned to maintain size and shape.
Full sun, by gardening definition is at least 6 hours of direct unobstructed sunlight.
My semi-dwarf apple tree is growing in 8ft x 16ft space. It is being pruned to occupy an oblong space and is twice as wide. I also have dwarf apple trees pruned/trained as espalier along a fence, occupying approx in 2ftx10ft space each.
You do need a pollinator tree, but many crabapples can pollinate fruiting apples so you may be able to get away with just one tree if there are crabapples planted in the neighborhood landscape.
I recommend disease resistant varieties. Find out what apple disease is prevalent in your area. In my area, fireblight and cedar apple rust are a given. I have Enterprise, Pristine, and Arkansas Black. All three fight off these diseases and need minimal prevention -- I just spray them with water and milk solution as fungal disease preventive. Even when they catch the disease, they manage to recover with minimal intervention and without resorting to chemicals.
When choosing varieties, I look for disease resistance first, then when they ripen (Pristine ripens in July, Enterprise and Arkansas Black in late Sept-October). Enterprise and AB are very flavorful -- so much so that I can pick them earlier in green to just blushing stage and use them for cooking and baking, and even eat them fresh. And they are good storage apples after fully ripening. I'm looking for another variety now that would ripen in August-early Sept.
Full sun, by gardening definition is at least 6 hours of direct unobstructed sunlight.
My semi-dwarf apple tree is growing in 8ft x 16ft space. It is being pruned to occupy an oblong space and is twice as wide. I also have dwarf apple trees pruned/trained as espalier along a fence, occupying approx in 2ftx10ft space each.
You do need a pollinator tree, but many crabapples can pollinate fruiting apples so you may be able to get away with just one tree if there are crabapples planted in the neighborhood landscape.
I recommend disease resistant varieties. Find out what apple disease is prevalent in your area. In my area, fireblight and cedar apple rust are a given. I have Enterprise, Pristine, and Arkansas Black. All three fight off these diseases and need minimal prevention -- I just spray them with water and milk solution as fungal disease preventive. Even when they catch the disease, they manage to recover with minimal intervention and without resorting to chemicals.
When choosing varieties, I look for disease resistance first, then when they ripen (Pristine ripens in July, Enterprise and Arkansas Black in late Sept-October). Enterprise and AB are very flavorful -- so much so that I can pick them earlier in green to just blushing stage and use them for cooking and baking, and even eat them fresh. And they are good storage apples after fully ripening. I'm looking for another variety now that would ripen in August-early Sept.
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CharlieBear
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Before you plant think dwarf trees and look into espalier. You have plenty of room to grow several in an espalier row if they are on M-26 stock.
If you plant too close to sidewalk or street you risk loosing all the apple to passers by, something you need to consider.
There are also columner apples that don't branch out much and therefore can be grown in a small space. In that case you don't have many choices.
Yes, on the disease resistent varieties, if possible. Spur bearing apples work best for espalier. You don't have to do formal espalier, it can be more informal. I have 3 rows of informally done dwarf apple trees and they are working out well.
If you plant too close to sidewalk or street you risk loosing all the apple to passers by, something you need to consider.
There are also columner apples that don't branch out much and therefore can be grown in a small space. In that case you don't have many choices.
Yes, on the disease resistent varieties, if possible. Spur bearing apples work best for espalier. You don't have to do formal espalier, it can be more informal. I have 3 rows of informally done dwarf apple trees and they are working out well.
Before you get your tree/trees decide how high you want them to grow and how many varieties you want.
If you want a tree that you will one day be able to sit under then you will need a vigorous root stock and it will need around 7.5ft minimum clear on all sides from its centre. ( 15ft spacing)
If you want lots of varieties then as has been said, go for a much more dwarfing stock and train accordingly.
As a centre leader it could be planted down to 4-5 ft apart.
Cordons can be as close as a couple of feet.
Espaliers around 6.8 ft.
The closer the planting the more dwarfing the stock and the more skill will be needed in maintaining the tree.
One thing I would also add is a lot of the spur bearing varieties are by nature triploids. Check before you purchase as these need other trees for pollination and are unable to act as a pollinator themselves.
If you want a tree that you will one day be able to sit under then you will need a vigorous root stock and it will need around 7.5ft minimum clear on all sides from its centre. ( 15ft spacing)
If you want lots of varieties then as has been said, go for a much more dwarfing stock and train accordingly.
As a centre leader it could be planted down to 4-5 ft apart.
Cordons can be as close as a couple of feet.
Espaliers around 6.8 ft.
The closer the planting the more dwarfing the stock and the more skill will be needed in maintaining the tree.
One thing I would also add is a lot of the spur bearing varieties are by nature triploids. Check before you purchase as these need other trees for pollination and are unable to act as a pollinator themselves.