Newly Planted Apple Tree Pruning (Photos Attached)
I've recently moved to Richland, WA (Eastern Washington) and planted an “unknown" apple tree.
Hi Brian
Couple of observations on your apple tree.
This years growth on the tree has been quite slow from the look of it and the tree is producing a nice spur system.
The branch G. is getting pretty powerfull compared to the rest of the tree and is the one that will have to be controlled if the trees shape is to be kept even.
I would shorten this one quite hard as well as the other one that is climbing alongside it. Both are getting fairly thick in comparison to the rest of the trees wood.
Remember that the strength of the tree will always go to the stronger branches. So these are the ones that will require the hardest pruning......not just tipping ...but hard reduction.
If they are not controlled then the tree becomes ever taller with the fruit climbing ever higher.
Next year both of these branches will produce a couple ...at least...new shoots.
Remove the stronger of these and leave the weaker....this will encorouge the branch to slow down.
Hope that helps a little
Jona.
Couple of observations on your apple tree.
This years growth on the tree has been quite slow from the look of it and the tree is producing a nice spur system.
The branch G. is getting pretty powerfull compared to the rest of the tree and is the one that will have to be controlled if the trees shape is to be kept even.
I would shorten this one quite hard as well as the other one that is climbing alongside it. Both are getting fairly thick in comparison to the rest of the trees wood.
Remember that the strength of the tree will always go to the stronger branches. So these are the ones that will require the hardest pruning......not just tipping ...but hard reduction.
If they are not controlled then the tree becomes ever taller with the fruit climbing ever higher.
Next year both of these branches will produce a couple ...at least...new shoots.
Remove the stronger of these and leave the weaker....this will encorouge the branch to slow down.
Hope that helps a little
Jona.
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Hi. I'm still learning about pruning, so don't take what I say as advice, OK? I mostly have dwarf fruit trees, and usually aim for Open Vase, so my "pruning eye" might be skewed that way too. This looks like a good exercise, though, so I wanted to voice my thoughts -- which are mostly theory and not experience -- and I'm hoping that the experts can give me a critique.
It looks like the Limb B is taking over the leader like JONA said, so that this tree is losing it's shape as a Central Leader, if that's what you're aiming for. I think I would cut that limb around where the arrow is pointing for G this winter, with the idea of eventually cutting it down to just above I, encouraging Branch I to take over that limb.
It's kind of hard to see with the tree shadow on the fence overlapping, but Limb A at the point where the arrow is pointing seems like it's growing in the wrong direction? I'm not sure if this is correctable by bending down that limb with a string threaded through a piece of a rubber hose.
In the center, the two apparently narrow crotched branches, I agree, are redundant, and I see you plan to cut one of them. It's hard to tell which one is better saved and which one cut from the photo, though that one you plan to keep does appear to be more vigorous. I assume you have your reason for picking that one. I think this branch would regain the leader position if you make that cut to the Limb B at Point G to shorten it.
However, in the photo, the OTHER BRANCH *appears* to be the rightful central leader, so I might try bending down the one you plan to cut until it's below Point G to encourage the central leader to re-assert itself.
It you were planning on Open Vase or Modified Central Leader, I would do a trim cut to the leader branch as well, though I can't tell where. I think my inclination would be to cut above an outward branch out of the 5 top most branches. I guess I would do the same to the rest of the limbs and branches as well as cut away or stub down any inward growing branches.
It looks like the Limb B is taking over the leader like JONA said, so that this tree is losing it's shape as a Central Leader, if that's what you're aiming for. I think I would cut that limb around where the arrow is pointing for G this winter, with the idea of eventually cutting it down to just above I, encouraging Branch I to take over that limb.
It's kind of hard to see with the tree shadow on the fence overlapping, but Limb A at the point where the arrow is pointing seems like it's growing in the wrong direction? I'm not sure if this is correctable by bending down that limb with a string threaded through a piece of a rubber hose.
In the center, the two apparently narrow crotched branches, I agree, are redundant, and I see you plan to cut one of them. It's hard to tell which one is better saved and which one cut from the photo, though that one you plan to keep does appear to be more vigorous. I assume you have your reason for picking that one. I think this branch would regain the leader position if you make that cut to the Limb B at Point G to shorten it.
However, in the photo, the OTHER BRANCH *appears* to be the rightful central leader, so I might try bending down the one you plan to cut until it's below Point G to encourage the central leader to re-assert itself.
It you were planning on Open Vase or Modified Central Leader, I would do a trim cut to the leader branch as well, though I can't tell where. I think my inclination would be to cut above an outward branch out of the 5 top most branches. I guess I would do the same to the rest of the limbs and branches as well as cut away or stub down any inward growing branches.