I was wondering if someone could help me with the proper ratios for my raised bed vegetable gardens. My local bulk supplier can pre mix before delivery for no additional cost in any ratio that I specify. They are 1/8 mile from my house, so I really want to use their stuff to keep delivery fees down.
They have:
1. Screened Topsoil
2. Leaf compost
3. Sand
If I was to use these three components, what would the ratios/percentages be? I am getting about 4.5 yards. I am in Zone 7a in Alabama if that info is necessary.
Are there any other things I need to add since it is only leaf compost?
Thanks for any help!
Mjav8199, ATTRA has a formula for an organic potting soil using equal amounts of all 3: "Classic formula for horticultural potting mix"
Personally, I doubt if I'd use that much sand ... unless that topsoil is poorly draining stuff. After the compost completely decays, you are left with a very high percentage of sand.
Of course, you may be embarking on a vigorous composting schedule and be able to more than compensate for loss from decay.
I have used about the same formula and proportions with perlite instead of sand. That is a common mix for me when plants are staying in containers for an entire season or longer. A large amount of soil is needed and using commercial potting soil will be expensive ...
Hope this helps.
Steve
Personally, I doubt if I'd use that much sand ... unless that topsoil is poorly draining stuff. After the compost completely decays, you are left with a very high percentage of sand.
Of course, you may be embarking on a vigorous composting schedule and be able to more than compensate for loss from decay.
I have used about the same formula and proportions with perlite instead of sand. That is a common mix for me when plants are staying in containers for an entire season or longer. A large amount of soil is needed and using commercial potting soil will be expensive ...
Hope this helps.
Steve
1/3 topsoil
1/3 compost
1/3 drainage material (vermiculite, perlite, cinder, or coarse sand)
Equal parts of each screened topsoil, leaf compost, and coarse sand should work. I would get a soil test on the mix and ask for organic recommendations. They will tell you how much and what kind of organic fertilizer you will need. Remember, organic fertilizer is not instantly available to plants and it will take months or years for some of it to be broken down into the inorganic ions that the plants can actually use. That is only done once you have a thriving soil web.
So, if you are prepping your garden now, you will still need to supplement with compost or manure tea and probably some fish emulsion as well on a weekly basis. It is the cost of doing things organically, you have to plan it about 6 months ahead. If you build the bed properly now, it should be good in the fall since microbes are also more active in the warmer months and slow down in the cold. To keep it going, keep adding organic. Instead of the heavy feeders, start with planting inoculated legumes and grains; use some EM1 to build up the levels of good microbes. After each planting keep adding compost. The soil biota needs the carbon to grow.
This is an article on different ways to build organic beds. I do disagree with the author though, he brought in good compost from his old garden and got fantastic results. I bought compost because I only worm compost and it does not make much that way, compost is not created equal. I got much poorer results initially trying to go from synthetic to organic. I have decided I like my 8 ft corn and and 7 foot tomatoes better than 5 ft plants that are healthy but have lower yields. I do get better roots with organic though, but way better greens with synthetic fertilizers. I have chosen to take the middle road. I try to be as organic as possible by limiting the use of pesticides and inviting beneficials to establish in my garden. I continue to keep adding organic matter to the garden and get soil tests every 2-4 years and I follow the recommendations. I have switched to low number synthetics on the fertilizers I do use mostly in pots. I only add nitrogen to the gardens as that is all that it needs. I also follow heavy feeders like corn with scavengers like cabbage which clean up the excess nitrogen.
https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic- ... x?PageId=1
1/3 compost
1/3 drainage material (vermiculite, perlite, cinder, or coarse sand)
Equal parts of each screened topsoil, leaf compost, and coarse sand should work. I would get a soil test on the mix and ask for organic recommendations. They will tell you how much and what kind of organic fertilizer you will need. Remember, organic fertilizer is not instantly available to plants and it will take months or years for some of it to be broken down into the inorganic ions that the plants can actually use. That is only done once you have a thriving soil web.
So, if you are prepping your garden now, you will still need to supplement with compost or manure tea and probably some fish emulsion as well on a weekly basis. It is the cost of doing things organically, you have to plan it about 6 months ahead. If you build the bed properly now, it should be good in the fall since microbes are also more active in the warmer months and slow down in the cold. To keep it going, keep adding organic. Instead of the heavy feeders, start with planting inoculated legumes and grains; use some EM1 to build up the levels of good microbes. After each planting keep adding compost. The soil biota needs the carbon to grow.
This is an article on different ways to build organic beds. I do disagree with the author though, he brought in good compost from his old garden and got fantastic results. I bought compost because I only worm compost and it does not make much that way, compost is not created equal. I got much poorer results initially trying to go from synthetic to organic. I have decided I like my 8 ft corn and and 7 foot tomatoes better than 5 ft plants that are healthy but have lower yields. I do get better roots with organic though, but way better greens with synthetic fertilizers. I have chosen to take the middle road. I try to be as organic as possible by limiting the use of pesticides and inviting beneficials to establish in my garden. I continue to keep adding organic matter to the garden and get soil tests every 2-4 years and I follow the recommendations. I have switched to low number synthetics on the fertilizers I do use mostly in pots. I only add nitrogen to the gardens as that is all that it needs. I also follow heavy feeders like corn with scavengers like cabbage which clean up the excess nitrogen.
https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic- ... x?PageId=1
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rainbowgardener
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Leaf compost will be good stuff for your soil texture and drainage, help keep it light and fluffy. But it is high in carbon with very little nitrogen. I would add in some regular compost, mushroom compost, worm castings and/or aged composted manure for soil fertility.
The square foot garden folks who base their ability to grow things crowded on having a very enriched growing medium use one third peat moss or coconut coir, one third perlite or other mineral ingredients, and one third mixed composts from a variety of sources (like I named above).
The square foot garden folks who base their ability to grow things crowded on having a very enriched growing medium use one third peat moss or coconut coir, one third perlite or other mineral ingredients, and one third mixed composts from a variety of sources (like I named above).