I also think the manure may be a problem. Usually 1/3 drainage material (perlite, vermiculite, cinder), 1/3 good quality topsoil, 1/3 multi sourced finished compost. Usually if I use manure I only put down a 1/4 inch and work it into the bed. My beds are about a 100 sq ft. and I use one bag (3/4 cu ft composted steer manure) or less.
Fresh manure can burn. Composted manure does not have a particularly high NPK about (1.5-3.0) -(1.0-0.5)-(1.0 or less) and should not burn. Chicken manure is higher than steer but also contains calcium which if fine if you have acidic soil but will make alkaline soil more alkaline Manures are high in salt and too much salt is not a good thing and that could keep plants from growing well or at all.
I looked at your soil test results. The recommended nitrogen 60 lbs per acre translates to about a couple of ounces per 100 sq ft. I don't get the potassium recommendation unless a lot of it is bound. It would also be a couple of ounces.
Here's how you convert pounds per acre to pounds per 100 square feet. Soil tests from my local extension supplies results in lbs per 100 sq ft and I can get organic recommendations if I ask for it.
https://aces.nmsu.edu/desertblooms/nmsug ... hap1.i.pdf
It really isn't a lot of fertilizer that is being recommmended. Nitrogen recommendations are usually divided, so even less for the nitrogen.
pH of 7.7 is not that bad, I would not add chicken manure or anything alkaline to make it higher. Compost in the soil will buffer the pH so it will behave more neutral. You are not growing blueberries or gardenia which would require very acidic pH to do well.
The salt on your test was not flagged so it doesn't look like the manure caused a salt problem.
You said the soil was bone dry initially and you watered daily and the plants are yellow.
How did you mix your soil and did you water the soil well before you planted? Sometimes , actually everythime I put Big R in the soil, it floats up to the top and it dries out fast so the top appears dry but the lower part is moister. I have less of a problem when I wet down the soil as I mix it and then after it is all mixed in. I add the fertilizer, in my case 1/4 of the recommended nitrogen, I will water the soil for 20 minutes every other day or so to bring up any weeds near the surface to pull them out. I try to wait a couple of weeks before I plant for the soil to settle and get as many of the weeds out. My cats are in the house, but I put down plastic fencing over the ground just in case of strays. I only add about 3-4 inches of compost to my garden every time I plant and I have a clay based soil. By the time I plant, the soil has had time to settle, the fertilizer has started to dissolve and the soil is evenly moist so I don't have dry spots.
You probably don't have the weeds I have to deal with but when you mix a new bed you should give the soil a thorough mixing and watering to settle it in before planting. If the soil was dry at the beginning, it can be hard to wet, depending on your soil. If it is sandy to start with, it takes much more water than clay. if your ingredients were not thoroughly mixed in and wet down, you might possibly end up with pockets of dry spots. That is why I like to mix and water lightly as I go (and it keeps the dust down). This same thing happens with potting soil. If you put dry potting soil in a pot sometimes peat especially can be hard to wet and there are pockets of dryness and it acts as a barrier and blocks the media from draining.
After it was wet, if you continued to water more than needed, you would end up with yellowing plants with falling leaves and possibly rotting roots.
Have you checked the roots of any of the plants?
Happy gardening in Hawaii. Gardens are where people grow.