Wow it looks BEAUTIFUL! If you were to repot in a ...well... Decorative kind of container and tray (on a sturdier stand, BTW) it could totally be the star of that corner.
What is the temperature like there? If it's in the low 60's that will help to prepare the plant to go dormant.
The way I go about this is to start withholding water. I see yours still has some green fruits, so it's going to want to suck up a lot of water, but don't water until top inch or so feels dry, and don't water too thoroughly. Smaller amounts more often to generally keep some moisture in the soil but never really saturated. If you see it start dropping blossoms without setting (buzz with electric toothbrush if you WANT it to set fruits) and stop blooming, you are on the right track.
Let the red pods mature fully before harvesting until they start to lose vigor and sort of shrivel. Every time this happens, it will signal to the plant that maybe it should be done. I don't have any *that* fully loaded, but I check every day or every other day. (All the red and colored fruits adds
to the decorative effect, too
)
Once an entire branch is harvested, you could prune if you want, though if you are going to let it go dormant, it will actually be better to let the plant keep the branch for now.
When all the fruits have been harvested (sometimes even with runty ones still attached) I put the plants in lower temperature and lower light. This can be done at first by putting them on the floor, or closer to the window glass, near front or back door, etc. Do some detective work around the house with a thermometer. I also have a two tube T-12 shoplight in the (no window unheated) garage that I keep on 24/7 and out some of the bigger pepper plants under it. The garage will get colder and colder -- currently 50's and 60's but was down to 40's when we had the freeze. They will mature what they can but will mostly go dormant and fruits will be picked green.
I have kept peppers in the garage with insulating layer underneath and surrounded with flattened cardboard box and with the light fixture on and draped under double layer of floating covers until temps falls down to upper 20's. Some will still make it but most will die at mid-20's.
In the house, plants kept near the windows or just below windowsills still get blasted by transferred-through-glass chill. Some will lose all their leaves. Once fully dormant, they are pruned down to Y-sticks (or remove all twiggy growth and just keep major scaffolding branches. Trim back lanky growth so new growth can be supported later.
*** the more dormant they are the less water they need/get ***
Ones that are kept slightly warmer -- low 60's with dips down to 50's in the depth of the winter (for example on the floor level in farthest corner from the central room with the thermostat "Cool Gang") may keep their leaves but will stop growing completely. Don't worry if the eaves yellow and fall though, but keep a sharp eye out for aphids.
None of these need as much light as plants that are fruiting or growing.
They start leafing out sometime in early February or so, I think in response to lengthening days and maybe just a little warmer temps since our coldest days when the central heat has trouble keeping up are usually end of December to end of January.
)
)
not enough to say it's hot. Just a sensation. But it lingers for a good 5 or more minutes....
-- I think mites are stunting the fruits