I have had problems with tomato yellow leaf curl virus for a couple of years now but now I have discovered it can also infect beans and peppers too. Anybody having problems yet?
This was a bad white fly year. I am seeing more purple ladybugs and I don't see white flies on the peppers just the bindweed and hibiscus. I have cut the hibiscus back and am pulling bind weed out as fast as I can.
I also pulled out the tomatoes. One of them may have had the virus.
I know it is not supposed to be seed transmitted. The host here is the sweet potato white fly.
I have had chlorosis on the bhut Jolokia and trinidad scorpion but not on most of my other peppers.
https://ipm.ifas.ufl.edu/resources/succe ... /TYLCV.pdf
From what I've read peppers aren't good host plants for the virus. Virus replication in pepper plants are low and don't make good virus host. I think other plants are similar. Peppers don't normally show symptoms, could it be something else (hope not another type of begomovirus)?
I've seen one pepper plant showing a bit of chlorosis, but I blamed on deficiency. It was in a 1gal pot with on poor red dirt/clay/"soil". Like the Mg def pic: https://www.semena.org/agro/diseases4/nu ... ders-e.htm
Don't know about bean, I think some can show symptoms but never seen it myself.
We're growing a bunch of host plants like beans, peppers, cassava and sweet potatos. In my case, pulling the cassava and sweet potato plants is not negotiable, even if I did, I'm confident the virus would eventually come back. I'm certain other people have the virus in their gardens. I've seen a wild ornamental bean-related (invasive?) plants growing in certain areas(unpopulated ares, gap between houses, roadside), they proably carry it too.
Poinsettia's are also virus host and whiteflies love 'em. They could be one of the way the virus came to the islands (just pure speculation).
For tomatoes, I'm dealing with TYLCV using resistant varieties(Margo, Tycoon, Champion II, and Tess land race currant) to improve yield. One goal is to find plants in the F2 & F3 that are homogeneous for the resistant alleles. Then, cross them with good tasting tomatoes to improve flavor. TLRCurrants taste great and cross it with MargoF2 in hopes getting some decent-good tasting cherries and improving resistance compared to each parent.
I've seen one pepper plant showing a bit of chlorosis, but I blamed on deficiency. It was in a 1gal pot with on poor red dirt/clay/"soil". Like the Mg def pic: https://www.semena.org/agro/diseases4/nu ... ders-e.htm
Don't know about bean, I think some can show symptoms but never seen it myself.
We're growing a bunch of host plants like beans, peppers, cassava and sweet potatos. In my case, pulling the cassava and sweet potato plants is not negotiable, even if I did, I'm confident the virus would eventually come back. I'm certain other people have the virus in their gardens. I've seen a wild ornamental bean-related (invasive?) plants growing in certain areas(unpopulated ares, gap between houses, roadside), they proably carry it too.
Poinsettia's are also virus host and whiteflies love 'em. They could be one of the way the virus came to the islands (just pure speculation).
For tomatoes, I'm dealing with TYLCV using resistant varieties(Margo, Tycoon, Champion II, and Tess land race currant) to improve yield. One goal is to find plants in the F2 & F3 that are homogeneous for the resistant alleles. Then, cross them with good tasting tomatoes to improve flavor. TLRCurrants taste great and cross it with MargoF2 in hopes getting some decent-good tasting cherries and improving resistance compared to each parent.
I have had to pull a lot of my tomatoes because of Tomato yellow leaf curl virus. Champion and a red cherry that were resistant did not taste very good. All I seem to be doing is selecting tomatoes for resistance but the flavor is not that great. Sungold was the best tasting but it is not resistant. I did get a F2 version of sungold crossed to a resistant tomato. It was pretty good not as sweet as sungold but more crack resistant and did not have the tartness of the unripe sungold but it was not totally resistant to the virus. It survived to produce fruit but the yields declined as the plant aged.
Most of my peppers are not showing symptoms except for the bhut jolokia and the Trinidad Scorpion. I did try changing fertilizers and we just had a big rain and that seemed to help the foliage green up better.
What I am concerned about is if the peppers are hosts can they infect future tomatoes even though they do not show symptoms?
My beans are young and so far do not show symptoms. I am not concerned about them very much as they are not particularly long lived plants. Some of my peppers though, I will keep for years.
Most of my peppers are not showing symptoms except for the bhut jolokia and the Trinidad Scorpion. I did try changing fertilizers and we just had a big rain and that seemed to help the foliage green up better.
What I am concerned about is if the peppers are hosts can they infect future tomatoes even though they do not show symptoms?
My beans are young and so far do not show symptoms. I am not concerned about them very much as they are not particularly long lived plants. Some of my peppers though, I will keep for years.
Well, I pretty much accepted the virus as a permanent problem. It will stay, leave, then come back again(depending on the whitefly population). I've seen the TYLCV infected plants from maybe about 20 houses or 5 streets away. My reasoning is because the virus has many host and whiteflies feed on many types of plants, I don't think TYLCV can be eradicated through practical means. It really only affect tomatoes anyway and resistant varieties are available.
I'll just grow susceptible plants as pollen donors. I'm not expecting immunity or high resistance or even high yields (I'll just grow more plants). Most resistant tomatoes carry a Ty-1 allele (Margo carries it). Too bad it's only partially dominant and may reduce yeild, the same is true for Ty-3 allele, but Ty-3 shows more symptoms. I'm guessing championII carries Ty-3 'cuz it hasn't perform as well as Margo or Tycoon. Tess land race currant probably carries a R gene too, but a different gene. I hope crosses that carry both genes will be more resistant, but I'd be happy with something good enough like your Sun Gold cross.
I'm not worried about TYLCV in peppers.
Here a paper, peppers and TYLCV: https://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/abs/1 ... TO-95-1089
I didn't read the whole thing but in the Discussion the way I understood it is pepper may be a dead-end host. The chances of the virus crossing over from peppers is very low. It's probably not likely to happen.That's what I got, buy maybe I misunderstood.
They couldn't transfer tylcv from peppers because low virus accumulation in pepper is low. But they didn't rule out the possibility that peppers could be inefficient reservoir for the virus when there's a lot of whiteflies.
I'll just grow susceptible plants as pollen donors. I'm not expecting immunity or high resistance or even high yields (I'll just grow more plants). Most resistant tomatoes carry a Ty-1 allele (Margo carries it). Too bad it's only partially dominant and may reduce yeild, the same is true for Ty-3 allele, but Ty-3 shows more symptoms. I'm guessing championII carries Ty-3 'cuz it hasn't perform as well as Margo or Tycoon. Tess land race currant probably carries a R gene too, but a different gene. I hope crosses that carry both genes will be more resistant, but I'd be happy with something good enough like your Sun Gold cross.
I'm not worried about TYLCV in peppers.
Here a paper, peppers and TYLCV: https://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/abs/1 ... TO-95-1089
I didn't read the whole thing but in the Discussion the way I understood it is pepper may be a dead-end host. The chances of the virus crossing over from peppers is very low. It's probably not likely to happen.That's what I got, buy maybe I misunderstood.
They couldn't transfer tylcv from peppers because low virus accumulation in pepper is low. But they didn't rule out the possibility that peppers could be inefficient reservoir for the virus when there's a lot of whiteflies.
Tomato yellow leaf curl virus usually does not present with symptoms in peppers but they could still transmit the disease to tomatoes. The Sweet banana is probably safe since it is very hard to get that infected.
My peppers are definitely showing signs of something. If not TYLCV then maybe pepper mild mottle disease which cannot be transmitted by vectors but is transmitted through seeds and equipment, pots, tools, shoes, gloves. The problem showed up on a Bhut Jolokia shortly after I bought it and I thought at first it was nutritional since Bhut really doesn't look like an ordinary pepper. The other peppers did not seem to have any problems, even the ones right next to it, but I have started to have problems with seedlings showing signs that may be infected from seeds and tools and pots since I only bleach pots that I use for orchids and I do save pepper seeds.
My peppers are definitely showing signs of something. If not TYLCV then maybe pepper mild mottle disease which cannot be transmitted by vectors but is transmitted through seeds and equipment, pots, tools, shoes, gloves. The problem showed up on a Bhut Jolokia shortly after I bought it and I thought at first it was nutritional since Bhut really doesn't look like an ordinary pepper. The other peppers did not seem to have any problems, even the ones right next to it, but I have started to have problems with seedlings showing signs that may be infected from seeds and tools and pots since I only bleach pots that I use for orchids and I do save pepper seeds.
I have already gotten rid of the bhut Jolokia and the sickly Trinidad scorpion. The banana peppers look normal. I have some thrip damage to a couple of plants (normal for me), the Caribbean Red Habanero looks fine, but the seedlings of the Trinidad Scorpion and some of the superchili are looking a little yellow to me but they are not nearly as mottled as the ones I tossed out.
The leaves of the Bhut Jolokia looked similar to the picture in this article.
https://scienceinafrica.com/old/index.ph ... pepper.htm
If this is pepper mild mottle, I will have to start sterilizing my pots and tools and not work on multiple plants in a day which is my M.O. I also save seeds so, I may have to buy new seeds instead. I can take the soil to be steam sterilized so that should be o.k. I can replace the pepper plants but it is a shame to lose them. Some of them are over four years old and they are really gorgeous.
The leaves of the Bhut Jolokia looked similar to the picture in this article.
https://scienceinafrica.com/old/index.ph ... pepper.htm
If this is pepper mild mottle, I will have to start sterilizing my pots and tools and not work on multiple plants in a day which is my M.O. I also save seeds so, I may have to buy new seeds instead. I can take the soil to be steam sterilized so that should be o.k. I can replace the pepper plants but it is a shame to lose them. Some of them are over four years old and they are really gorgeous.
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- Aging pepper leaf showing some yellowing.
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- Pepper seedling
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- pepper leaves distorted from thrips
I hope it's not another virus. All three looks different from each other.
I take back what I said, according to this (Polsten et al): https://www.agri.gov.il/download/files/21.pdf
“On the basis
of these data, it is highly probable that some pepper cultivars are
able to serve as reservoirs of TYLCV. â€
Also, looks like some peppers do show symptoms, read p291 with pics in p281:
https://books.google.com/books?id=8NR12W ... cv&f=false
I take back what I said, according to this (Polsten et al): https://www.agri.gov.il/download/files/21.pdf
“On the basis
of these data, it is highly probable that some pepper cultivars are
able to serve as reservoirs of TYLCV. â€
Also, looks like some peppers do show symptoms, read p291 with pics in p281:
https://books.google.com/books?id=8NR12W ... cv&f=false
The peppers I had destroyed had chlorosis and yellowing but it was very different from the tomatoes. While the veins were prominent there wasn't any upward curling of the leaves and the yellowing pattern was different.
Pepper leaves do yellow with age and over watering (too much rain) and the leaf I have in the picture may be partly normal aging.
The Bhut Jolokia had yellow leaves all over the plant and it only got greener after a heavy rain. The white flies were really not bothering that pepper, preferring to go after the hibiscus instead.
Whatever the cause it is not good and if it keeps spreading, I probably have to put a moratorium on growing solanaceous plants for a while. I had to do that with sweet basil because of downy mildew. I just started growing sweet basil again after two years abstinence. So far, so good. Walmart and Lowe's have had basil for sale that had downy mildew but none recently. Actually they hardly carry basil now. The growers probably spray the basil on the farm to control the mildew but once they get to the stores it only takes a couple of weeks for the disease to show up since the spores are in the air.
Pepper leaves do yellow with age and over watering (too much rain) and the leaf I have in the picture may be partly normal aging.
The Bhut Jolokia had yellow leaves all over the plant and it only got greener after a heavy rain. The white flies were really not bothering that pepper, preferring to go after the hibiscus instead.
Whatever the cause it is not good and if it keeps spreading, I probably have to put a moratorium on growing solanaceous plants for a while. I had to do that with sweet basil because of downy mildew. I just started growing sweet basil again after two years abstinence. So far, so good. Walmart and Lowe's have had basil for sale that had downy mildew but none recently. Actually they hardly carry basil now. The growers probably spray the basil on the farm to control the mildew but once they get to the stores it only takes a couple of weeks for the disease to show up since the spores are in the air.
The first pic looks like a deficiency(plus aging), maybe Mg.
Idk about the second.
The third could be partly from calcium deficiency.
Knowing some pepper can show TYLCV, I'll start paying more attention to each plant.
I haven't noticed any mildew problems with Lemon and Christmas basil. I've recently just started growing Lettuce Leaf and they look bad, could be downy mildew. It's my first sweet basil, but I get the impression they may be more susceptable. It's too bad 'cuz they don't bolt as fast as Lemon or Christmas and taste pretty good too. I'll probably try Spicy Globe next, they look more "hardy".
Idk about the second.
The third could be partly from calcium deficiency.
Knowing some pepper can show TYLCV, I'll start paying more attention to each plant.
I haven't noticed any mildew problems with Lemon and Christmas basil. I've recently just started growing Lettuce Leaf and they look bad, could be downy mildew. It's my first sweet basil, but I get the impression they may be more susceptable. It's too bad 'cuz they don't bolt as fast as Lemon or Christmas and taste pretty good too. I'll probably try Spicy Globe next, they look more "hardy".
Genovese and sweet basil are probably the most susceptible. Thai basil shows the disease if it is old enough, the bad leaves can be picked off and the Thai basil will tolerate it. Lemon, Cinnamon and African basil have been the most tolerant for me. African basil is huge and when it is crossed with the purple basil you will get African Blue basil which is really ornamental. It is edible but I am hoping to cross it to some of the less resistant basils in hopes of getting them to survive better. African basil has a strong camphor flavor.
When the peppers first started getting yellow I thought it might be a nutritional problem and I normally fertilize my potted plants with osmocote. I gave it citrus food because it contains micros and I also later tried Bandini 7 although, I did not think it was iron deficient. Both of these fertilizers also contain micros including magnesium.
There was interveinal chlorosis like a magnesium deficiency but, the fertilizer should have corrected that and it really did not make a difference. The problem was also more global, affecting all the leaves pretty much at the same time and not starting at the lower leaves first. If there is a magnesium or any micronutrient deficiency in my yard the gardenia is usually the first one affected.
https://www.haifa-group.com/knowledge_ce ... n_peppers/
The first leaf is from a super chili that is probably 7-8 years old. It may just be an aging leaf and the aftermath of a lot of rain.
The second are the seedlings of the Trinidad scorpion. This is the first time planting this type of pepper and I usually do not grow pepper seedlings this time of year. Some of the Trinidad scorpions got very chloritic and I have already tossed them out. This one looks like the leaves are paler green than they should be. I have also given them bandini and Wonderlizer. I normally would only give pepper seedlings osmocote or Pac Ag's Island supreme 8-24-8 controlled release fertilizer and that is usually enough until they start to produce peppers.
The third picture is a super chili seedling but the distortion of the leaves are caused by thrips. There is no yellowing and the thrip problem is not new. I don't spray my plants so I just live with the damage. Anything I use on the thrips will also destroy their predators and the plant will survive it.
When the peppers first started getting yellow I thought it might be a nutritional problem and I normally fertilize my potted plants with osmocote. I gave it citrus food because it contains micros and I also later tried Bandini 7 although, I did not think it was iron deficient. Both of these fertilizers also contain micros including magnesium.
There was interveinal chlorosis like a magnesium deficiency but, the fertilizer should have corrected that and it really did not make a difference. The problem was also more global, affecting all the leaves pretty much at the same time and not starting at the lower leaves first. If there is a magnesium or any micronutrient deficiency in my yard the gardenia is usually the first one affected.
https://www.haifa-group.com/knowledge_ce ... n_peppers/
The first leaf is from a super chili that is probably 7-8 years old. It may just be an aging leaf and the aftermath of a lot of rain.
The second are the seedlings of the Trinidad scorpion. This is the first time planting this type of pepper and I usually do not grow pepper seedlings this time of year. Some of the Trinidad scorpions got very chloritic and I have already tossed them out. This one looks like the leaves are paler green than they should be. I have also given them bandini and Wonderlizer. I normally would only give pepper seedlings osmocote or Pac Ag's Island supreme 8-24-8 controlled release fertilizer and that is usually enough until they start to produce peppers.
The third picture is a super chili seedling but the distortion of the leaves are caused by thrips. There is no yellowing and the thrip problem is not new. I don't spray my plants so I just live with the damage. Anything I use on the thrips will also destroy their predators and the plant will survive it.
Basils are easy to cross just plant them next to each other and the bees do all the work. You could hand pollinate them. Most people want to avoid crossing so they either have to keep the basils they don't want to cross pinched or plant varieties 150 ft apart.
Thai and Cinnamon basil readily cross. It tastes like Thai but has a lighter purple flower. Sweet and Opal or purple basil cross. The leaves will have a mottled or purple center and a darker spike but pretty much tastes more or less like sweet basil. Lemon and Lime basils cross. I can't tell the difference between them anyway. African will cross with Opal basil and it becomes African Blue basil. with purple streaks in the leaves it is very ornamental. African basil has a camphor flavor so it is often used more as an ornamental. It is a vigorous grower. I am trying to cross the African with Sweet basil in hopes of developing a more downy mildew resistant sweet basil. African, lemon, and Cinnamon are the most resistant. Sweet basil is the most susceptible to downy mildew.
Thank you for your help. I would not have considered other viruses except for TYLCV if you had not pointed out that peppers rarely had symptoms and the description of TYLCV and Pepper mild mottle are very similar.
Thai and Cinnamon basil readily cross. It tastes like Thai but has a lighter purple flower. Sweet and Opal or purple basil cross. The leaves will have a mottled or purple center and a darker spike but pretty much tastes more or less like sweet basil. Lemon and Lime basils cross. I can't tell the difference between them anyway. African will cross with Opal basil and it becomes African Blue basil. with purple streaks in the leaves it is very ornamental. African basil has a camphor flavor so it is often used more as an ornamental. It is a vigorous grower. I am trying to cross the African with Sweet basil in hopes of developing a more downy mildew resistant sweet basil. African, lemon, and Cinnamon are the most resistant. Sweet basil is the most susceptible to downy mildew.
Thank you for your help. I would not have considered other viruses except for TYLCV if you had not pointed out that peppers rarely had symptoms and the description of TYLCV and Pepper mild mottle are very similar.
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