Hello all! This year I planted many different varieties. Let me start at the beginning of my gardening season. For the past five or six years I have owned a small, plastic greenhouse purchased from Tractor Supply. Within this greenhouse I grow all my stuff from seed...except for the occasional store-bought stuff. For a heater I use a little electric heater, and for extra help, I have three foam boards that I easily slip on and off when nights get too cold for comfort. My peppers are started indoors in egg cartons, then I move the little newborns out to the greenhouse to separate into six-packs and single pots.
Like I have mentioned before, I not only grow all this for myself, I grow also to sell. So I make a timeline to try and have everything at a nice size to sell by late March or early April. I take my plants uptown and sit at a popular place(which closed this year, where I'll sit next year, I don't know) to wait for customers. This year I had a sell-out on tomato plants, including my Blue Beauty. I get picked at by family about my selling 'black tomatoes' but I have yet to have anybody come back to me with a complaint. Some people are picky, and want their usual nasty hybrids. Other people are normal and are willing try something new, if they think it's fascinating. Other people seem to be desperate and will take it anyway.
All of my tomatoes are started and grown in foam cups. The cups work great for me, and I've even had a complimant on them. On each cup I poke holes in the bottom for drainage and with a black marker: I write the price, name and description of the variety.
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After selling time was over, I emptied all but one table from the greenhouse and placed pots of tomatoes. This is the first time doing this. I have two 'Mystery Tomatoes', Oxheart, Dutchman, Garden Peach, Micro Tom, White Cherry, three store-bought Parks Whoppers hybrids (which are not doing well) and a Beef....something....Beefmaster? Big Beef? Whatever. It was a stupid hybrid. Anyway, @Applestar told me I needed to removed the cover off the greenhouse,(I had left to help protect the plants against storms) and so I did.
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Now for the details about the tomatoes. This is Bradley. I just got this heirloom this year as a Bonnie transplant. Medium sized-pink skinned tomatoes did not split at all after the rains. The interior was meaty and not too seedy. It had a sweet taste, and was quite pleased with this one. I have saved seeds from it, and have added them to my collection!
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This is my prized Heinz Classic Ketchup tomato; heirloom of course. I obtained it a couple of years ago as a Bonnie transplant and have been growing it from saved out seeds since. It's supposed history is that this is the tomato once used by the Heinz company to make their ketchup with. If it's still used b the company, I'm not sure. Probably not. They're probably using some stinking hybrid now. Anyway, the plants are quite compact; being only two feet in height. The plant's growth habit is quite unusual, and have never seen it in any other variety. As the seedling ages, the branches lower down and eventually forms a bush. However, this plant has proven to be very fragile. The bent branches are easily broken when searching for fruits. This early spring I lost one young potted plant when a strong gust of wind knocked it off a table; the plant broke into a million pieces as if it were made of glass. Plants can become top-heavy when loaded with fruits and therefore needs a type of support. The fruits are medium sized and have average taste and texture.
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This is my most interesting 'Mystery Tomato'. It's story begins like this: When I first wanted Micro Tom from Baker Creek, they were out of stock. I went to eBay for my seed source and planted two seeds. Both germinated and I was excited to see how truly short the plants would stay....the plants did NOT stay compact and therefore skyrocketed into a huge, indeterminate type. I noticed how really wispy the young foliage was, and as @Applestar pointed out, was typical of a cherry type. However the fruits are not cherries; but stayed to a small size.
I was disappointed in the problems that occurred with this variety: First the plant stems cracked, and I whacked a lot of the towering plant down to stop further splitting. The second thing that happened was a couple of fruits had BER, which is not a common problem for me. The next and last thing was serious fruit split after a heavy rain. Seeing how this variety handled made me think that whatever this is, isn't suited for this area. I saved seeds from the fruits to see if it will come true to type as an heirloom and how it handles again. I've decided to keep calling the variety, "Mystery".
As for the fruits, I was like, WOW! Strong fruit flavor seemed to burst in my mouth and has outranked the flavors of all other red tomatoes I have eaten.
I was disappointed in the problems that occurred with this variety: First the plant stems cracked, and I whacked a lot of the towering plant down to stop further splitting. The second thing that happened was a couple of fruits had BER, which is not a common problem for me. The next and last thing was serious fruit split after a heavy rain. Seeing how this variety handled made me think that whatever this is, isn't suited for this area. I saved seeds from the fruits to see if it will come true to type as an heirloom and how it handles again. I've decided to keep calling the variety, "Mystery".
As for the fruits, I was like, WOW! Strong fruit flavor seemed to burst in my mouth and has outranked the flavors of all other red tomatoes I have eaten.
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This is my Blue Beauty. Love this Brad Gates variety! Interesting taste: quite mild, but pleasant. It's one of my favorites! Meaty interior. Two problems I've noticed when growing this one is hard core, and this year, fruit split. I've never saved seeds from it before until this year, I'm hoping it's a quite stable variety and will come true to type.
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This is Tiny Tim. Dwarf plants max out at a foot tall, and give cherry-sized red fruits. Average taste. Plants can become top-heavy and so usually I have something for this plant to lean on. This variety is perfect for the person who likes to just pull off and eat for salads or just by themselves as I do.
Here also is Black Cherry. Sweet taste, but if picked and eaten when shoulders are still green, it will have a twang. Black Cherries are not good keepers, and need to be eaten soon after picking. I've had people tell me that they ruined before they go to them. This year, the Black Cherries had fruit split.
The big purple fruit is Cherokee Purple. Meaty Interior, beautiful coloring and sweetish taste!
Here also is Black Cherry. Sweet taste, but if picked and eaten when shoulders are still green, it will have a twang. Black Cherries are not good keepers, and need to be eaten soon after picking. I've had people tell me that they ruined before they go to them. This year, the Black Cherries had fruit split.
The big purple fruit is Cherokee Purple. Meaty Interior, beautiful coloring and sweetish taste!
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This is my Beefsteak. I've NEVER had a tomato plant get so big! It was so bad, it was taking over my other plants and I simply had to take the shears to it so my other tomatoes could breathe! This plant has given me several good-sixed and great tasting fruits so far(and seeds) and still more to come. Some of the fruits did experience a little splitting, but not too bad.
The small fruit shown is a discolored Cosmic Eclipse. I purchased the seeds from eBay as well, so either somebody stuck the wrong seeds in the thingy again, or Cosmic Eclipse isn't a very stable creation if these seeds did come from a C.E. The dark green shoulders on the fruit eventually turned with the rest of the fruit. I guess I will try this variety again, but source from Baker.
The small fruit shown is a discolored Cosmic Eclipse. I purchased the seeds from eBay as well, so either somebody stuck the wrong seeds in the thingy again, or Cosmic Eclipse isn't a very stable creation if these seeds did come from a C.E. The dark green shoulders on the fruit eventually turned with the rest of the fruit. I guess I will try this variety again, but source from Baker.
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Now for the peppers. I have three bells: California Wonder, Yellow Bell and Big Bertha. One Sweet Banana (not a favorite of mine, but plant was leftover from what didn't sell) and three small, but working Nadapeno Jalapenos. The N.J.'s are a non-hot jalapeno sourced from Baker. I personally cannot tolerate the heat of peppers, but am fond of jalapenos. I used to grow TAM, but the peppers would 'heat up' if the plants stressed under bad weather. So I switched to Fooled You hybrid because fruits stayed 'cool under pressure'. But because I'm an heirloom nut and would like to start saving my pepper seeds out(you do not save seeds from a Fooled You or you'll get a fire bomb) I'm switching to Nadpenos this year.
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Earlier this year it seemed to be a disaster- when my stuff wasn't producing. It seems to be working now, I had so many bell peppers I just sold them to our local home-grown produce seller.
My Oxheart tomato, however, is a disaster itself. It refuses to produce at all, and I'm guess it's because it's such a large-fruited type. I'm debating whether or not to destroy it. My Dutchman is producing, but the green fruits are seriously runted, and this is supposed to be a large one to. Stinks. But I had hoped to taste test these this year in order to offer them for sell next year.
My Oxheart tomato, however, is a disaster itself. It refuses to produce at all, and I'm guess it's because it's such a large-fruited type. I'm debating whether or not to destroy it. My Dutchman is producing, but the green fruits are seriously runted, and this is supposed to be a large one to. Stinks. But I had hoped to taste test these this year in order to offer them for sell next year.
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I have heard that oxheart types tend to be less hearty in the hot southern areas. This year, I read at more than one source that a compact/short (and I believe determinate) oxheart variety called Monomakh’s Hat is performing well.
I’ve tried growing this variety before and it was productive but it was very mild tasting to be flavorless to me, yet these Florida and Texas gardeners are saying they taste full-flavored and great.
So maybe this is a variety that thrives in heat, and I’m considering trying to grow it agin next year, but this time planning to grow in a SIP. (I actually started some this spring to try, but it was one of the casualties that didn’t make it).
Subject: Tomato Tasting -- compare and share
Aug 04, 2013
I’ve tried growing this variety before and it was productive but it was very mild tasting to be flavorless to me, yet these Florida and Texas gardeners are saying they taste full-flavored and great.
So maybe this is a variety that thrives in heat, and I’m considering trying to grow it agin next year, but this time planning to grow in a SIP. (I actually started some this spring to try, but it was one of the casualties that didn’t make it).
Subject: Tomato Tasting -- compare and share
Aug 04, 2013
applestar wrote:MONOMAKH'S HAT
My Monomakh's Hat has been done for a couple of weeks now, but it was very productive.
Here's a picture of the upper truss -- lower truss was equally loaded:
I found the pink heart-shaped fruits to be thin skinned, meaty and well textured (not mealy or mushy), sweet but mild/not full flavored, lacking the acid afterburst that I actually like. Some huge fruits compared to other varieties that matured during the same timeframe early in the season. It did not keep well once fully ripe and needed to be eaten or processed right away.
I just discovered that the milder tomatoes taste great when cut up (peeled or not) and simply baked with a little salt and olive oil at 350°F for 15-20 min, garnished with chopped fresh basil and oregano at serving. I didn't get to eat MH this way, but I exepect it would be good. The result is sort of fresh stewed tomatoes -- lots of tasty clear broth in the bottom, flavor-concentrated warm tomato chunks to eat with a spoon.
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I only grow Heirlooms and stabilized (or in process of being stabilized) crosses which will yield same trait progeny from the seeds.
https://www.worldtomatosociety.com/toma ... makhs-hat/
...this says it’s an indeterminate — mine probably acted like a determinate because it produced ridiculous number of huge fruits and then probably croaked from the effort since I didn’t follow up-fertilize it.
https://www.worldtomatosociety.com/toma ... makhs-hat/
...this says it’s an indeterminate — mine probably acted like a determinate because it produced ridiculous number of huge fruits and then probably croaked from the effort since I didn’t follow up-fertilize it.
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These are my three new varieties I purchased earlier this year. The plants are young, but already showing their traits!
Splash of Cream has the prettiest little cream-colored leaf! Red Velvets leaves are SOOOO soft to the touch! See the fuzz? Silvery Fir Tree has the most unique shaping for tomato leaves! So carrot-like!
Splash of Cream has the prettiest little cream-colored leaf! Red Velvets leaves are SOOOO soft to the touch! See the fuzz? Silvery Fir Tree has the most unique shaping for tomato leaves! So carrot-like!
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Yesterday evening I culled through my garden. So sad. Good-bye, Bradley, Cherokee Purple, Oxheart, Dutchman and Mystery. Until next year.
This morning I fertilized the remaining plants. My Black Beauty and Dark Galaxy looked pretty sickly. The peppers were more thirsty than hungry so I only gave them a half dose. My reward was a Big Bertha bell which will be placed in pasta salad!
Somebody told me that there was a difference in the sweetness of a three-lobed bell pepper and a four-lobed. I've never noticed that, has anyone noticed a difference?
This morning I fertilized the remaining plants. My Black Beauty and Dark Galaxy looked pretty sickly. The peppers were more thirsty than hungry so I only gave them a half dose. My reward was a Big Bertha bell which will be placed in pasta salad!
Somebody told me that there was a difference in the sweetness of a three-lobed bell pepper and a four-lobed. I've never noticed that, has anyone noticed a difference?
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Got my first White Cherries today! Well, they weren't so much 'white' as they were yellow, and I believe it was because the fruits were fully exposed in the sun. They gave me the impression of pale yellow grapes. From what I read, I think fruits under leaf cover are more-so paler/whiter.
Now for the taste-test results : I sliced the grape-looking cherry in half. I ate each half seperately and savored and concentrated on the flavor. It was sweet like I imagined; but not overly sweet- perhaps like a mild grape.
Now for the taste-test results : I sliced the grape-looking cherry in half. I ate each half seperately and savored and concentrated on the flavor. It was sweet like I imagined; but not overly sweet- perhaps like a mild grape.
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In tomato parlance, “White” color designation indicates clear epi/skin with opaque yellow or pale butter yellow or even translucent/clear yellow flesh. To check for epi color, peel the skin and carefully scrape all of the flesh from inside of the skin using a sharp knife — some people will use xacto knife or straight edge razor — then either plaster the scraped skin on a white plate or on a glass or a light box — it will be like stained glass.
Sometimes it’s not easy to see the difference, but most of them will be obviously clear or yellow. Antho will have the purple pigment, and striped tomato will sometimes have yellow stripes on clear or clear stripes on yellow. Green when ripe fruits that tend to ripen with amber blossom end or amber overall cast are usually yellow epi, and solid green are usually clear.
Sometimes it’s not easy to see the difference, but most of them will be obviously clear or yellow. Antho will have the purple pigment, and striped tomato will sometimes have yellow stripes on clear or clear stripes on yellow. Green when ripe fruits that tend to ripen with amber blossom end or amber overall cast are usually yellow epi, and solid green are usually clear.
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I don’t know. If I were to guess, it’s the epi, skin-flesh, and interior flesh color of the variety that dictates the final color *range* but there is a tendency to intensify the yellow and other colors as the fruit ripens, no matter what color it’s supposed to be. There is also a personal opinion/preference involved in *when*/what stage the fruit might be considered fully ripe/ready to eat.
Most designated “white” varieties will get yellower when fully ripe. Some will develop blossom-end blush. Although a lot of these color changes occur in the flesh, I wouldn’t rule out yellow pigment (accruing in the epi).
Also, I guess since antho acts like melanin and responds to sunlight like suntan, presumably to protect the fruit, it wouldn’t be surprising if non-antho had similar sun-light sensitive mechanism.
Most designated “white” varieties will get yellower when fully ripe. Some will develop blossom-end blush. Although a lot of these color changes occur in the flesh, I wouldn’t rule out yellow pigment (accruing in the epi).
Also, I guess since antho acts like melanin and responds to sunlight like suntan, presumably to protect the fruit, it wouldn’t be surprising if non-antho had similar sun-light sensitive mechanism.
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Ok, I preformed an 'operation' on that other white cherry. Using a knife, I did my best to clean off a piece of skin. It seemed quite clear, with a very pale yellow tint to it I guess. I really don't care much for the too-sweet taste of the fruits; so I think I'll give away the remaining fruits on the plant after they ripen.
I'm impatiently awaiting the ripening of my Black Beauty! I'm in love with it's deep, black shoulders! I'm guessing the rest of the fruit will turn black when fully ripen.
I'm impatiently awaiting the ripening of my Black Beauty! I'm in love with it's deep, black shoulders! I'm guessing the rest of the fruit will turn black when fully ripen.
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Looks interesting to me, to! Nice tomatoes! By the way, my Black Beauty plant broke in a couple of places after that BAD wind I had the other day. The branches aren't completely off the stem and I pulled them up and leaned them against the stake. What can I wrap around the stems to help them any? Or should I just cut them? Not much to that plant, really. Kinda scrawny so I'd kinda hate to cut the branches.
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The break looks kind of dried out, so I’m not sure if the branch will heal enough to restore nutrient and water transport.
Since the break looks like they are at the base of the plant, I think the thing to do would be try splinting the broken branches back together like broken bones, then surround the entire base of the plant with something and mound/hill up soil all the way up above the break. This way, the branch above the break could grow some roots which the attachment supplements. But it’s probably best to remove at least some of the fruits from the broken branches to reduce strain.
Material will depend on what you have. I’m cheap so I would just cut the bottom off of a big black nursery pot and slit the side up, then duct tape it back together around the plant.
To splint — it’s done exactly like broken bones. You need at least two solid sturdy short supports, then try something like electrical tape to secure at above and below the break, then secure the splinted branch to a stake — you have to make it so there will be no movement. Exact number of materials needed and shape and size will all depend on the “patient” and injury involved.
It will be necessary to provide shade and maintain constant moisture to minimize transpiration and maintain turgidity (is that a word? —- prevent wilting).
OR if it’s not at the base of the plant, you could try treating it like a graft union and splint and tightly wrap the join back together with the electrical tape — but again, if the branches are loaded, I’m not sure that they would make it with all the the stress and energy plus all the big leaves transpiring. This worked for me indoors but outdoors we are talking sun and wind and disease pressure, too.
Since the break looks like they are at the base of the plant, I think the thing to do would be try splinting the broken branches back together like broken bones, then surround the entire base of the plant with something and mound/hill up soil all the way up above the break. This way, the branch above the break could grow some roots which the attachment supplements. But it’s probably best to remove at least some of the fruits from the broken branches to reduce strain.
Material will depend on what you have. I’m cheap so I would just cut the bottom off of a big black nursery pot and slit the side up, then duct tape it back together around the plant.
To splint — it’s done exactly like broken bones. You need at least two solid sturdy short supports, then try something like electrical tape to secure at above and below the break, then secure the splinted branch to a stake — you have to make it so there will be no movement. Exact number of materials needed and shape and size will all depend on the “patient” and injury involved.
It will be necessary to provide shade and maintain constant moisture to minimize transpiration and maintain turgidity (is that a word? —- prevent wilting).
OR if it’s not at the base of the plant, you could try treating it like a graft union and splint and tightly wrap the join back together with the electrical tape — but again, if the branches are loaded, I’m not sure that they would make it with all the the stress and energy plus all the big leaves transpiring. This worked for me indoors but outdoors we are talking sun and wind and disease pressure, too.
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(Oops, sorry you had to move my post.)
The branches that are broken are close to the bottom of the plant. I'm not sure how to provide shade for the plant, it's out in my raised bed. I'll do the dirt mounding thing, I think. There's only one good sized fruit on the plant, and I'd rather let it mature on the plant so I can save seed from it. The other fruits are way too small to pick.
The branches that are broken are close to the bottom of the plant. I'm not sure how to provide shade for the plant, it's out in my raised bed. I'll do the dirt mounding thing, I think. There's only one good sized fruit on the plant, and I'd rather let it mature on the plant so I can save seed from it. The other fruits are way too small to pick.
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R.I.P. Beefsteak. Hard to believe this pile of chopped up vegetation was once a towering tomato plant. Left a big gap in my garden, that's for sure. My Japapenos were probably relieved, 'cause they were getting squashed by that big thing!
However, to take Beefsteak's place is my other Splash of Cream youngster. See the gorgeous leaves?! Strange, it's sibling isn't showing near as much varigation! Looks plain green like a regular plant. @Applestar, would too much nitrogen cause lack of varigation?
However, to take Beefsteak's place is my other Splash of Cream youngster. See the gorgeous leaves?! Strange, it's sibling isn't showing near as much varigation! Looks plain green like a regular plant. @Applestar, would too much nitrogen cause lack of varigation?
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I learned from a tomato breeder that the best way to grow and advance the variegated varieties is to sow a large number of seeds in a large, deep (3-6 inch) container so you can grow them to 2nd set of true leaves when the most precocious seedlings start showing their variegation potential. Then ruthlessly cull non-variegated and minimally variegated seedlings until you have a number of the "best" variegated seedlings you have room to grow — or are unwilling to give up growing.
Then separate them into individual pots so you can give them best attention.
Then separate them into individual pots so you can give them best attention.
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That is probably what I would need to do next year when I start growing those variegated plants to sell; I would want to sell the most highly variegated. I do have a tray I use to start the coleus in. Because the seeds are sooooooooo itty bitty, I sow them I the dirt filled tray and wait until they are old enough to gently pry out with a stick, and transplant into it's own, single container. Thanks, I can do that with my Splash of Creams, then and choose only the highest variegated. I'd feel like a really mean person by not giving the others a chance, though. But because of my clay soil, I don't have room or money to plant all the plants that no one wanted to buy.
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This morning was kinda cloudy so I decided to do some much needed done work. Armed with Bloom Booster, shears, gloves and oil, I was prepared to do some culling, oiling and feeding. First item of business was to be rid of the big scary red wasp patrolling the yard. My chickens were giving me strange looks as I pulverized the enemy by way of stomping up and down on it like a kid throwing a temper tantrum. Next I dumped out White Cherry, Garden Peach, Fake Cosmic Eclipse, and Park's Whopper. The Beef....beefmaster?? Big Beef? Whatever. Was still alive, but infested with the aphids. Using my shears I cut off the really bad parts of the plant, oiled the rest and applied Bloom Booster. I oiled the rest of the still aphid infested plants. I checked the peas, and amazingly enough, the flea beetles seemed to have abandoned them! Perhaps it was the work of my infant garden police: frogs, toads and lizards.
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Been a long time since posting on this thread. Have long since said good-bye to those peas. A couple of weeks ago I picked what was left of the bell peppers and pulled up the plants. I re-freshened the soil a bit by adding some organic MiracleGro.
Last week I planted red romaine lettuce, cauliflower transplants and cabbage. I purchased some ornamental cabbage, but haven't planted it yet. Carrots are planted in my kiddie pool-turned raised bed, but after all this rain I'm worried they got ruined.
And because of all this rain, I've decided to give up all hope of planting turnip greens. I think it may be too late now. I may still attempt radishes, but not sure.
I had planted some green romaine in six-packs, but seed germination seems to be spotty and puny.
Last week I planted red romaine lettuce, cauliflower transplants and cabbage. I purchased some ornamental cabbage, but haven't planted it yet. Carrots are planted in my kiddie pool-turned raised bed, but after all this rain I'm worried they got ruined.
And because of all this rain, I've decided to give up all hope of planting turnip greens. I think it may be too late now. I may still attempt radishes, but not sure.
I had planted some green romaine in six-packs, but seed germination seems to be spotty and puny.
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