Toxic1979
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Posts: 148
Joined: Tue May 12, 2015 4:23 pm
Location: Labrador City, NL, Canada

Tomato Transplant, First Repotting...

April 13, 2015- Planted 20 Scotia Tomatoes, 10 Cherry Tomatoes, 10 Roma Tomatoes. All from seed. 100% Germination after 10 days. Placed under grow lights, 16 hours light, 8 hours dark.

April 30, 2015- Thinned out the seedlings. I planted 2-3 seedlings for every one intended to grow.

May 03, 2015- They were about 6-8 inches high. I decided to transplant them into larger 6 inch pots. Since this was my very first tomato transplant I decided to do half only (10 Scotia, and 10 Cherry).

May 04, 2015- All 20 plants were wilting heavily.

May 05, 2015- I pronounced them deceased! Did more research on transplants. The day I transplanted them was the first nice day since of our spring (+13 Celsius). I decided to enjoy the weather and transplant them on the deck. It took about 3 hours total. Figured out after that it may have been a bad day for transplanting outside, especially since they had no hardening off. Lesson learned....

May 08, 2015- Noticed the remainder of the tomato plants (10 Scotia, 10 Roma) had white bulges on the base of the stem just above the soil line. Looked it up. Seems as though these were root initiatives. Figured the plant was telling me something.... "Plant me deeper"!

May 11, 2015- At approximately -2:30 pm... Transplanted the remainder of the tomato plants (10 Scotia, 10 Roma) into 6 inch pots. Used organic liquid fertilizer on the plants first, and let it sit for an hour. Then I placed 1/3 the soil in each pot. Put in the transplant, and the bamboo stake, and covered the root ball with about an inch of soil. pressed it in lightly, and then used an organic liquid fertilizer on the the base. Secured the stem to the stake (this was precautionary for wilting of the leaves and stem). Then placed another 4 inches of soil into the pot, pressed it in lightly, and then water water fertilized the top again a little, and then used regular water on the soil. Di this to all 20 plants. Placed them in the basement, and shut off the lights. Monitored for excess water drainage through the day. Some plants showed very slight signs of leaf wilting, but nothing like my prior attempt at this.

May 12, 2015 (24 hours after the transplant)- SO far everything looks sturdy. Still very minimal wilting on the leaves. Still no artificial light introduced since the transplant. Provide a little surface water. Two of the plants had a leaf fall off ( leaf was not badly wilted). I am very worried for these tomato plants. I really want them to make it.

Also joined this forum on May 12, 2015! LOL!

Now my question... When should I introduce the grow lights again? And what else should I be doing to help them make it? Since the transplant they have been without light. I read (and watched) that you should hold off for about 24-48 hours. As I'm writing this piece, it has been 30 hours without light. Evidently they have some transplant shock, so I'm afraid that I'll send up damaging them with the light right now. Suggestions are definitely welcome!

Thanks in advance!

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applestar
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I would put them back under the lights -- artificial light is no comparison to direct sunlight, and they NEED the light for energy and day/night cycle. But reading the description of the process you used, I'm concerned that you may have been overly generous with the fertilizer.

Remember that plants take up water by osmosis. If there is excessive amount of fertilizer in the soil, the water will not move into the less concentrated solution in the plants.

For future reference -- When I uppot outside, I do it in the shade and leave the newly Uppotted plants in solid shade (house, table, etc.) where they will NOT get hit by direct sun for the remainder of the day. Next day, I would put them in dappled shade of one of the trees, making sure again that the movement of the sun will not end up with direct sun on the plants unless very weak rising or setting sun.

I generally use potting mix with compost so I don't add extra fertilizer for seedlings that will be later planted in the garden or in a permanent large container, and only water with added "fertilizer" if they are still in the little container after 3 weeks or so. I do give them a much more fertile soil mix when they are planted for the season.

Toxic1979
Senior Member
Posts: 148
Joined: Tue May 12, 2015 4:23 pm
Location: Labrador City, NL, Canada

I'll keep that in mind for the next time I have to do a transplant.... with regards to the repotting and the use of fertilizer. I read on some sites to use fertilizer during transplants, and some others argue and say to use kelp meal at the base of the root ball.... no fertilizer.... seems if you look hard enough, some will tell you the colour blue is actually white. LOL!

I believe tonight I will turn on the lights. This was my big worry. Starving them from light, when they seem to be doing fine so far.

I have more transplants to do later on (12 Red Robin Cherry Toms, and 12 Early Cascade Toms). I'll take your advice and see how it works for me.

Thanks again!

Toxic1979
Senior Member
Posts: 148
Joined: Tue May 12, 2015 4:23 pm
Location: Labrador City, NL, Canada

A few pictures of the transplants.
Picture of All the Tomatos
Picture of All the Tomatos
About half of the tomato plants had a leaf that looked like this one below, and eventually fell off on its own.
Tomato Plant Leaf Drying out
Tomato Plant Leaf Drying out
Most of the plants are "sagging" or like these plants. The stems are still very rigid, and the soil is moist. Its seems as though its just the leaf vine coming from the stem. Lights have been off for 30 hours since transplant. I tuned them on as I took these pictures.
Tomato Leaves Sagging
Tomato Leaves Sagging

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rainbowgardener
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They are looking spindly. My guess is that is a combination of not enough light and too much nitrogen fertilizer.

Somewhere on helpful gardener are pictures I posted of my own tomato seedlings in previous years. This year I never took their pictures. But here's a picture I found of what tomato seedlings that size should be looking like:

Image
https://www.cnbhomes.com/wp-content/uplo ... -OSSZp.jpg

You want them growing slower and sturdier, which means LOTS of light, 16 hrs a day, and no nitrogen fertilizer for awhile. Bone meal and kelp are natural organic sources of phosphorus and potassium, which break down slowly, so won't be force feeding it. Or you can just use compost which is a complete nutrient source, but low intensity ( something like 1-1-1 or 2-2-2) and slow release. As soon as they have grown some, you can bury them deeper again, which promotes more root growth and sturdier stems.



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