We are making a simple metal frame trellis with wires for a clematis to provide a screen from our neighbours in the summer. It will sit on top of an existing fence and will be 1m long and 80 cm high. We want it to be as unobtrusive as possible to minimise its light blocking to a basement window in winter so we want to have the wires as far apart as possible.
How far apart can they be to still have the Clematis grow up the structure?
Is it possible to just have horizontal wires?
The wire we intend using is 10mm (o.4 inches) thick - is this too thick for the tendrils to grab onto?
Thanks in advance for any advice...
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opabinia51
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Take a look at this site:
https://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/basics/techniques/growflowers_trainclematis.shtml
Looking at the trellis used by this gardener (and from fellow gardeners) it would seem that 1 cm wire would be fine for the tendrils to grab on to. Though, from my personal opinion, wood would look much nicer.
Well, as far as "how far apart the wires can be" I would say about 15 cm just to keep it on the safe side. But, my father has grown clematis up a fence as well with spacing at about 30 cm.
Yes, it is possible to just have horizontal wires but, you would need some sort of stake to attach them onto.
https://www.bbc.co.uk/gardening/basics/techniques/growflowers_trainclematis.shtml
Looking at the trellis used by this gardener (and from fellow gardeners) it would seem that 1 cm wire would be fine for the tendrils to grab on to. Though, from my personal opinion, wood would look much nicer.
Well, as far as "how far apart the wires can be" I would say about 15 cm just to keep it on the safe side. But, my father has grown clematis up a fence as well with spacing at about 30 cm.
Yes, it is possible to just have horizontal wires but, you would need some sort of stake to attach them onto.
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grandpasrose
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Scott it does tend to climb up itself, and wind in and out of itself, and then gets top heavy and falls over if there is not enough for it to climb on.
I have several clematis, and they are all on different trellises. The one that seems to spread the best is the one that is on wood lattice, with holes about 2"X2". I have three clematis planted at the base of three 4X8 panels, and they are covered.
Also be aware of what type of clematis you buy if you are wanting to have the trellis bare in the winter for light. There are three categories of clematis, A,B, and C. "A" clematis are varieties that you don't have to ever prune, and will only bloom on old wood, so you have to leave the old branches on the trellis all year round. "C" clematis are varieties that bloom on new growth, so can be pruned right to the ground every fall. (I would think this is the type you would want) "B" varieties are a complicated combination of both types.
Good luck!
Val
I have several clematis, and they are all on different trellises. The one that seems to spread the best is the one that is on wood lattice, with holes about 2"X2". I have three clematis planted at the base of three 4X8 panels, and they are covered.
Also be aware of what type of clematis you buy if you are wanting to have the trellis bare in the winter for light. There are three categories of clematis, A,B, and C. "A" clematis are varieties that you don't have to ever prune, and will only bloom on old wood, so you have to leave the old branches on the trellis all year round. "C" clematis are varieties that bloom on new growth, so can be pruned right to the ground every fall. (I would think this is the type you would want) "B" varieties are a complicated combination of both types.
Good luck!
Val
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The Helpful Gardener
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And let's not forget C. heraclifolia, the bush form...
I agree about the top-heavy part, but the horizontal wires should support the weight. Wires are a cleaner more modern look than wood, but I suppose clematis wouldn't notice that...
I do like your spacing, but Frankie might consider various types for extended bloom time rather than just one type.
I am a huge fan of C. viticella for profuse smaller bloom and disease resistance. C. montana is early(I like'Rubens, before the viticellas, which are a little earler than most of those big hybrids, like 'Jackmannii', still a huge favorite (despite newer and better varieties like 'Gen. Sikorsky'). Other species types like C. tangutica or C. paniculata offer much later and different blooms (yellow bells in the former case, bunches of small fragrant blooms in the latter). Must keep an eye on the latter as it gets a bit rampant but give it a good cut back in June and we're fine...
Even native forms for most parts of North America...
Scott
I agree about the top-heavy part, but the horizontal wires should support the weight. Wires are a cleaner more modern look than wood, but I suppose clematis wouldn't notice that...
I do like your spacing, but Frankie might consider various types for extended bloom time rather than just one type.I am a huge fan of C. viticella for profuse smaller bloom and disease resistance. C. montana is early(I like'Rubens, before the viticellas, which are a little earler than most of those big hybrids, like 'Jackmannii', still a huge favorite (despite newer and better varieties like 'Gen. Sikorsky'). Other species types like C. tangutica or C. paniculata offer much later and different blooms (yellow bells in the former case, bunches of small fragrant blooms in the latter). Must keep an eye on the latter as it gets a bit rampant but give it a good cut back in June and we're fine...
Even native forms for most parts of North America...
Scott
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grandpasrose
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Definitely consider getting plants that have different bloom times so that you have blooms as long as possible. You can still do that, and stay in the Group "C" Clematis.
Which C. Viticella were you referring to Scott? Or just as a group. There are several of them. This clematis is a group "C".
C. Montana Rubens is very showy from a distance, but I don't really care for the individual flower itself. It's really quite boring. This one is also group "A" which means it flowers on old wood, so it can get to look rather messy if it is not carefully tended to in May or June after they bloom.
Jackmanii of course is the good old standby. My grandfather had one that grew from the ground up to the roof of his three story house every year, and was totally covered in deep purple blooms. It is in group "C", so would be cut to the ground each fall.
General Sikorski is very nice. I like the softer shade of purple, and the flower size. It is in group B2, which means you could get away with treating it like a group C as it blooms on both new and old wood.
C. Tangutica varieties will give you bloom most of the summer, although their flowers are much smaller. They are also Group C.
C. Paniculata (also known as Sweet Autumn Clematis) is a very late bloomer and can be treated as a Group A, B, or C. Again, smaller flowers, but beautiful smell.
My favourites are:
- Ville de Lyon has large carmine colored blooms, that blooms most of the summer. It can be treated as a Group B or C. I treat it as a C because that's the easiest!
- Margaret Hunt is a pale blue clematis covered with masses of large flowers all summer. it is Group C.
- Lincoln Star is a group B2, so can be treated like a group C, and I do! It is a little different as the petals are shaped a little sharper. It is a raspberry silvery color and blooms in spring and then in fall.
- Ernest Markham is also a good strong group C clematis. It has large magenta flowers and blooms all summer.
I also have C. macropetala Blue Bird, which is my only group "A". It was bred in Canada, and has masses of small lavender bell shaped blooms in the spring and early summer. I have had it bloom again in the fall. The reason I have this one and only group A is because it is planted at the base of a 25' pole mounted in the centre of my cutting garden, on which is attached my entire birdhouse collection (about 25 or 30). Bluebird winds it's way in amongst them and blooms all the way to the top. It would be very hard to prune this because of where it is growing, so it's perfect for a group "A"!
Clematis is a beautiful flower, and can be grown in all kinds of places - I love it!
Val
Which C. Viticella were you referring to Scott? Or just as a group. There are several of them. This clematis is a group "C".
C. Montana Rubens is very showy from a distance, but I don't really care for the individual flower itself. It's really quite boring. This one is also group "A" which means it flowers on old wood, so it can get to look rather messy if it is not carefully tended to in May or June after they bloom.
Jackmanii of course is the good old standby. My grandfather had one that grew from the ground up to the roof of his three story house every year, and was totally covered in deep purple blooms. It is in group "C", so would be cut to the ground each fall.
General Sikorski is very nice. I like the softer shade of purple, and the flower size. It is in group B2, which means you could get away with treating it like a group C as it blooms on both new and old wood.
C. Tangutica varieties will give you bloom most of the summer, although their flowers are much smaller. They are also Group C.
C. Paniculata (also known as Sweet Autumn Clematis) is a very late bloomer and can be treated as a Group A, B, or C. Again, smaller flowers, but beautiful smell.
My favourites are:
- Ville de Lyon has large carmine colored blooms, that blooms most of the summer. It can be treated as a Group B or C. I treat it as a C because that's the easiest!
- Margaret Hunt is a pale blue clematis covered with masses of large flowers all summer. it is Group C.
- Lincoln Star is a group B2, so can be treated like a group C, and I do! It is a little different as the petals are shaped a little sharper. It is a raspberry silvery color and blooms in spring and then in fall.
- Ernest Markham is also a good strong group C clematis. It has large magenta flowers and blooms all summer.
I also have C. macropetala Blue Bird, which is my only group "A". It was bred in Canada, and has masses of small lavender bell shaped blooms in the spring and early summer. I have had it bloom again in the fall. The reason I have this one and only group A is because it is planted at the base of a 25' pole mounted in the centre of my cutting garden, on which is attached my entire birdhouse collection (about 25 or 30). Bluebird winds it's way in amongst them and blooms all the way to the top. It would be very hard to prune this because of where it is growing, so it's perfect for a group "A"!
Clematis is a beautiful flower, and can be grown in all kinds of places - I love it!
Val
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The Helpful Gardener
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I have 'Polish Spirit' in the garden but have grown C. viticella 'Kermisina' as well. Most disease resistant ones I know, quite resistant to clematis wilt...
Started a new one called 'Josephine' this year; stunning...a B type, but worth it...
[url]https://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https://www.plants-magazine.com/plants/images/gallery/72.jpg&imgrefurl=https://www.plants-magazine.com/plants/plantsnewindividual.asp%3Fid%3D72&h=516&w=360&sz=41&tbnid=cRMJhudSGK6EaM:&tbnh=128&tbnw=89&hl=en&start=13&prev=/images%3Fq%3DClematis%2BJosephine%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DN[/url]
Dirk has the rockingest site for odd, new plants...
Started a new one called 'Josephine' this year; stunning...a B type, but worth it...
[url]https://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=https://www.plants-magazine.com/plants/images/gallery/72.jpg&imgrefurl=https://www.plants-magazine.com/plants/plantsnewindividual.asp%3Fid%3D72&h=516&w=360&sz=41&tbnid=cRMJhudSGK6EaM:&tbnh=128&tbnw=89&hl=en&start=13&prev=/images%3Fq%3DClematis%2BJosephine%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DN[/url]
Dirk has the rockingest site for odd, new plants...
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grandpasrose
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The Helpful Gardener
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Anonymous
Thanks to all for the advice: very helpful and very kind. I think I will go for diagonal boxes spaced about 20 cm apart with wire much thinner at around 3-5mm. I'll let you all know how it goes... The clematis was already planted last summer (we didn't get around to the trellis so it just grew over on itself all summer I'm afraid) and is a Montana - so maybe the wrong type for what we want, but I'll train it up and see how it goes...
Thanks again to all
Frankie
Thanks again to all
Frankie
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grandpasrose
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There is no such thing as the wrong kind of clematis, just some are easier to care for than others. Do you know which variety of C. Montana you have, there are several.
In general C. Montana's origins are in the Himalayas, and is not recommended for colder than Zone 5. It blooms in May and June, with pink or white 2" blossoms, with some scent. It is a Group A clematis.
Group A Clematis are varieties that only flower on growth produced the previous year. To prune, you should only cut out the weak or dead stems right after the plant has finished blooming. If you prune later than June, or prune too drastically, you will have few blooms the next year.
The plans for your trellis sound about right. Now watch it grow and bloom, and enjoy!
Val
In general C. Montana's origins are in the Himalayas, and is not recommended for colder than Zone 5. It blooms in May and June, with pink or white 2" blossoms, with some scent. It is a Group A clematis.
Group A Clematis are varieties that only flower on growth produced the previous year. To prune, you should only cut out the weak or dead stems right after the plant has finished blooming. If you prune later than June, or prune too drastically, you will have few blooms the next year.
The plans for your trellis sound about right. Now watch it grow and bloom, and enjoy!
Val