The blueberries need some help too, they're real small and worthless at this point to try and harvest any. They didn't get much sun, but they do now with that tree gone
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greenstubbs
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Greenstubbs 2023
A new homestead and new work to be done! This was last year when I moved in, the muscadines were neglected, way overgrown, and needed something, time to go bye bye!!! And yes, they were growing into the tree, they were a mess!
Where else should I go? The 2 pecan trees are now gone, overgrown grapes behind the garage, 2 other types of grapes next to garage that need some type of help, maybe need more sun? They got it now with the trees gone. a bastard grape thgat was growing into the tree in the back, the wood pile is now ash.
My lone pepper and a tub of spuds was last years grow.
I'm going to be using lots of tubs as I'm afraid to try root crops due to moles and chipmunks reeking havoc on them, but will experiment with a few root crops to see what happens?
The blueberries need some help too, they're real small and worthless at this point to try and harvest any. They didn't get much sun, but they do now with that tree gone The struggle continues!
The blueberries need some help too, they're real small and worthless at this point to try and harvest any. They didn't get much sun, but they do now with that tree gone The struggle continues!
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greenstubbs
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Lots of challenges, but lots of fun too. It is good to get to know how the sun and weather changes throughout the first year. You also get to know your challenges.
Root crops are fine in at least 12 inch deep tubs. If you put in a larger garden it is more efficient, but you probably need to fence it off from other critters. If you build a raised bed garden you can put some small gauge wire at the bottom of the bed to help with burrowing animals. A fence may be needed to stop larger animals if you put in more plants. A hoop house would be good for starting and protecting smaller plants.
Tires were used here in the old days for planters, but the material in the newer tires make that unsuitable.
Your peppers look gorgeous.
Take the time to make a master plan. Things that will take a long time to mature like orchards can be put in place earlier, but things like vegetable gardens are more efficient if you plan out the beds or rows, depending on what is easier for you to maintain and irrigation to make watering easier. You would want things like your kitchen garden located close to the house. You can add cattle panels or some other trellises to grow vertically to save or maximize the space that you have. You can plan for a larger vegetable garden by assigning the space for it, but you can build a smaller one within the footprint and expand as needed as long as you have a plan. Fencing is like that too, you can change or add to the configuration if you choose the right kind of fencing material and you have a master plan for expansion.
After you have your master plan in place, you can build it up slowly by sections. Give yourself some flexibility within each section. Like growing a vegetable garden. Start smaller, if you run into problems like the moles or rabbits, you may have to change the design like adding underground barriers and fencing or cages around beds above ground or consider getting a dog or cat to keep the pests away. Also consider what other things you may need, like tool storage, outdoor prep stations,staging areas, or maybe even eventually a greenhouse. It all depends on what you want to do with the property and how much you can simplify your work effort to keep up with it all. Adding on slowly, saves on upfront costs, but it is a balance, since especially these days, the cost of everything is going up.
If you get chickens, they will eat the bugs, but they like lettuce and sunflowers too, so you have to keep them out of the garden in a tractor or a run. If you have a compost pile, you have to find a place to put that too.
Root crops are fine in at least 12 inch deep tubs. If you put in a larger garden it is more efficient, but you probably need to fence it off from other critters. If you build a raised bed garden you can put some small gauge wire at the bottom of the bed to help with burrowing animals. A fence may be needed to stop larger animals if you put in more plants. A hoop house would be good for starting and protecting smaller plants.
Tires were used here in the old days for planters, but the material in the newer tires make that unsuitable.
Your peppers look gorgeous.
Take the time to make a master plan. Things that will take a long time to mature like orchards can be put in place earlier, but things like vegetable gardens are more efficient if you plan out the beds or rows, depending on what is easier for you to maintain and irrigation to make watering easier. You would want things like your kitchen garden located close to the house. You can add cattle panels or some other trellises to grow vertically to save or maximize the space that you have. You can plan for a larger vegetable garden by assigning the space for it, but you can build a smaller one within the footprint and expand as needed as long as you have a plan. Fencing is like that too, you can change or add to the configuration if you choose the right kind of fencing material and you have a master plan for expansion.
After you have your master plan in place, you can build it up slowly by sections. Give yourself some flexibility within each section. Like growing a vegetable garden. Start smaller, if you run into problems like the moles or rabbits, you may have to change the design like adding underground barriers and fencing or cages around beds above ground or consider getting a dog or cat to keep the pests away. Also consider what other things you may need, like tool storage, outdoor prep stations,staging areas, or maybe even eventually a greenhouse. It all depends on what you want to do with the property and how much you can simplify your work effort to keep up with it all. Adding on slowly, saves on upfront costs, but it is a balance, since especially these days, the cost of everything is going up.
If you get chickens, they will eat the bugs, but they like lettuce and sunflowers too, so you have to keep them out of the garden in a tractor or a run. If you have a compost pile, you have to find a place to put that too.
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greenstubbs
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That's the problem! I really don't want to deal with fencing that's why I'm going to use tubs for starters and try maybe some carrots & beets to see what happens. I know rabbits don't like onions, maybe the other vermin won't either? I know there's lots of trail & error here, I had a garden in central CA. for 17 years, so I know what I'm doing. Reap from your bennies and learn from the sorrows now applies. Here's the start to the compost pile, not much to look at, just need the grass to turn green, and also get to know the neighbors better so I can get some cow manure.
I also have a ton of ash/biochar for the compost pile as well!!!! Those 2 red buildings is the neighbor with the cow manure.
Gardens are always a work in progress. In my small yard, I have problems with birds and snails and the occasional feral chicken digging up the flower garden. Barriers(bird and insect netting) and fences (small plastic ones that fit over the pots and around my small in ground garden were the best solution for me. If you can find something that works for you that is all that matters.
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applestar
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In cattle country, you might be able to have access to protein and molasses tubs for containers… or even old watering tubs or troughs.
Farms almost always have to rebuild fences one time or another. and dispose of old fence posts and wire panels, etc. (I’ve come across quite a few of those on craigslist type sources in the past, but farms are dwindling around here.) And pallets and skids are always useful.
Looking at that compost pile of leaves, I can’t help envisioning it all blow away with a good gust of wind — netting to pin down to the ground, or a surround and top made of pallets might be an easy fix?
So many possibilities! Looks like it’s going to be an exciting year for you
Farms almost always have to rebuild fences one time or another. and dispose of old fence posts and wire panels, etc. (I’ve come across quite a few of those on craigslist type sources in the past, but farms are dwindling around here.) And pallets and skids are always useful.
Looking at that compost pile of leaves, I can’t help envisioning it all blow away with a good gust of wind — netting to pin down to the ground, or a surround and top made of pallets might be an easy fix?
So many possibilities! Looks like it’s going to be an exciting year for you
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greenstubbs
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Thanx apple, I have to get with the neighbor that took out the overgrown grapes as there was a thick cattle panel that was in with the mess supporting all the grapes. He's got it in his burn pile which he hasn't burned yet, get that back and pound the dents & bends out of it. I have other fencing to use for trellis's, just need some up-rights for them. I have a bunch of tubs for starters, I need to play with that area where the grapes were as that part of the yard has good lawn grass that I'm going to have to control somehow? Also the tree guys used that lane with their equipment so hopefully they killed it, this summer will tell? I have a pallet Mfgr. just up the road that makes, sells new & used, as well as just the wood, I gotta touch base with them. I though the same about the leaves gettin blown away, nope, not yet! And we've had a few windy nights and we're still good, I also have piles of leaf's in the yard that need to be cleaned up too! I had 18 trees removed this fall, can't believe how bright it is around here!
The property was neglected and sat vacant for a couple years so I have a bunch of me-do's to do around the place both in & out, but it keeps me off the street!
The property was neglected and sat vacant for a couple years so I have a bunch of me-do's to do around the place both in & out, but it keeps me off the street!
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greenstubbs
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- Location: Far Upper Alabama
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greenstubbs
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- Joined: Thu Sep 09, 2010 6:41 pm
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Not much going on here in the garden since my last post, been busy playing around with old seeds to see what germinates. I've just been overseeding starter pots to see what comes up as all my seeds have been in storage for the last 10+ years. It appears that 12 YO squash seeds are pretty much dead, trying 1 last time with Acorn, Zucks, Crooknecks, and Patty pans before trashing them. I've got 9 Bell Peppers that sprouted, some white onions, no red's or yellows, I may just buy a sampler pack from Dixondale and call it good. Just on the fence as to get short or Intermediate days as I'm in the zone that can do both? I gotta do something to deter the deer!
I had 3 Honeydews sprout so I planted some more, I got 5 that sprouted and 3 more popped up from the first batch planted, I should have a nice melon crop this year? I just got done planting some old carrots, beets, radish, kohlorbi's, green beans, so we'll see what comes up there?
I still gotta get some okra started too. TTFN
I had 3 Honeydews sprout so I planted some more, I got 5 that sprouted and 3 more popped up from the first batch planted, I should have a nice melon crop this year? I just got done planting some old carrots, beets, radish, kohlorbi's, green beans, so we'll see what comes up there?
I still gotta get some okra started too. TTFN
It looks like if you are in zone 7 or 8, there are some cool crops you can start now.
Depending on how the seeds were stored and the type of seed, viability varies. Most things can last 3-5 years. Beans and dill lasted 9-12 years for me. Others had very low germination even after a couple of years.
In any case, it is always exciting to put those seeds into the ground and be surprised when they pop up. You can do a germination test on the older seeds first to see if they are worth planting.
https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-g ... tion-test/
https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-g ... n-alabama/
Depending on how the seeds were stored and the type of seed, viability varies. Most things can last 3-5 years. Beans and dill lasted 9-12 years for me. Others had very low germination even after a couple of years.
In any case, it is always exciting to put those seeds into the ground and be surprised when they pop up. You can do a germination test on the older seeds first to see if they are worth planting.
https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-g ... tion-test/
https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-g ... n-alabama/
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greenstubbs
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It looks like it's going to be a frustrating year gardening for me! Dealing with needing a new hip, and a knee that just decided to take a dump and not wanting to bend is making life hard. I feel like a 120 YO man! Looking at the garden plot, I see that I have tons of grapevine roots all over the place sticking up out of the ground making it hard top even try to till the area. I really need an industrial type of deep tiller to dig up all these roots, I have good soil underneath it. Next, it seems that "ferry morse" seeds leave very little to be desired! Never in my life have I seen such a failure rate of seeds! Okra germinates then dies, went through a whole package and got nothing! Other seeds are just as bad! 7 weeks with both maters & peppers and they are only 1" tall and just sit there and do nothing! Cucks look like junk now but they may come around, I hope? Melons, the same, germinate and die. The tree guys tore up the lawn worse than I thought, cold weather over X-mas killed some grass, the weeds are out the Ying yang and all over the place. The struggle continues!!!! I just don't feel like taking pics!
I have good luck with most seeds and Ferry Morse has had good seeds. I just don't buy the seeds from the store racks. Only a couple of stores keep the seeds in the air conditioned store. The others keep the seeds in the garden shop exposed to sun, and moisture when they water the plants or rain. I buy Ferry Morse seeds from their website. The prices and shipping are reasonable. I buy most of my seeds online. They cost more, but I have better choices and I have to get to the seed racks at the stores early or there is not much left. There are only a few varieties on the racks that I actually like. I do get seeds from a local seed company at stores. But they are not sold at all stores and all of those stores keep the seeds inside the store and not outside. When I have had trouble, the seeds were anywhere from 9-12 years old. I keep my seeds in the refrigerator. If I kept them outside in 80 degree weather, they won't last long.
I have have problems germinating some seeds like fatali. I need potassium nitrate for that one. The only other time I have trouble germinating seeds has been because it was not the right time usually too cold to germinate them since I germinate seeds on an open bench, the temperature has to be 68-75 degrees or the warm season crops papaya, eggplant, peppers do not germinate as well.
I have have problems germinating some seeds like fatali. I need potassium nitrate for that one. The only other time I have trouble germinating seeds has been because it was not the right time usually too cold to germinate them since I germinate seeds on an open bench, the temperature has to be 68-75 degrees or the warm season crops papaya, eggplant, peppers do not germinate as well.
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Vanisle_BC
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. But if buying off a rack, it's wise to consider the environment in which it's displayed/stored.Seeds have to be dated about 9 months after they are germination tested. However, there is no requirement for minimum germination for seeds. When you see seeds that are listed as "overpack" it usually means the germination was not that great so they put more seeds in the package.
That being said, although seeds lose vitality over time. If they are stored in a cool dark and dry place ( My refrigerator qualifies), some seeds keep for years. Different kinds of seeds have different viability rates. Tropical seeds are notoriously bad for germinating if they are not really fresh, like you just plan
them after you cut the fruit open. But others like beans and dill can last 9-11 years under good conditions.
There are seed viability charts online that estimate the longevity of seeds. Most of these charts are conservative. Any seeds will lose viability over time. While seeds in a packet may germinate 5 years later, the percent germination does drop every year. I have been surprised many times though. I have overseeded 5 year old packets expectin poorer germination and had more sprouts than I anticipated.
If you do have older seeds, it is always a good idea to test them for viability first by soaking the seeds in water first. Floaters aren't any good. Plant the sinkers and figure out the germination rate. Many seeds will keep for 5 years or more. When they get to that point and it is a question to keep or not, the germination test helps. Some seeds like onions and corn and for me zucchini never last more than a couple of years and their germination rate drops like a rock, Although, I did hear from the extention agent that they have germinated 25 year old seed that was cry ogenically stored. in temperatures between 32-41 degrees and moisture was controlled below 8% with dessicants and packaging.
https://joegardener.com/wp-content/uplo ... -Chart.pdf
That being said, although seeds lose vitality over time. If they are stored in a cool dark and dry place ( My refrigerator qualifies), some seeds keep for years. Different kinds of seeds have different viability rates. Tropical seeds are notoriously bad for germinating if they are not really fresh, like you just plan
them after you cut the fruit open. But others like beans and dill can last 9-11 years under good conditions.
There are seed viability charts online that estimate the longevity of seeds. Most of these charts are conservative. Any seeds will lose viability over time. While seeds in a packet may germinate 5 years later, the percent germination does drop every year. I have been surprised many times though. I have overseeded 5 year old packets expectin poorer germination and had more sprouts than I anticipated.
If you do have older seeds, it is always a good idea to test them for viability first by soaking the seeds in water first. Floaters aren't any good. Plant the sinkers and figure out the germination rate. Many seeds will keep for 5 years or more. When they get to that point and it is a question to keep or not, the germination test helps. Some seeds like onions and corn and for me zucchini never last more than a couple of years and their germination rate drops like a rock, Although, I did hear from the extention agent that they have germinated 25 year old seed that was cry ogenically stored. in temperatures between 32-41 degrees and moisture was controlled below 8% with dessicants and packaging.
https://joegardener.com/wp-content/uplo ... -Chart.pdf
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greenstubbs
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I have never heard this, good to know. Between playing with old seed and trying to get new seed to germinate has been a challenge to say the least. I said screw it and over seeded a couple of pots with old seed before trashing them. I did a whole packet of spinach that was 20 YO in a tub and it seems that 90% of them have germinated, I gotta get them in the ground soon!
I'm jealous of Garys plot and wish mine was looking that good, and I'm just south of him!
I've had a bunch of rain this week and things are starting to grow, about F-ing time!
This is from a couple weeks ago. Each fence post is 7" apart.
Cucks & acorn in the back.
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greenstubbs
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greenstubbs
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There's lots of reasons, the big one is I don't have a rototiller yet. The grapes that were there have left a bunch of roots sticking up, it's hard to even get a shovel in there to break it up with all those little root runners. I could really use a super duty stump grinder/rototiller to really grind things up in that area! I also need to get a soil test as I'm sure the grapes have depleted it? Vermin & weed/grass control is another, I could also use a truckload or 3 of good top soil/compost/manure mix. My onions that are in the ground aren't doing the greatest, even following the rules that I've use for onions in the past with great success. I've only been in the house a little over a year and still working a game plan figuring things out. Rome wasn't built in a day, but I hear you and it bugs me too. Maybe in the next year or two?
I haven't even posted about what to do with my other grape vines and blueberries, as they need to be addressed too, the joys of buying a neglected property!
There is definitely a lot of work to do inside and out with a new place. I had a small tiller cultivator at first because the garden was neglected concrete. But after a few years, I could till the garden with a shovel. As I am getting to old to do that for long, I have switched to no till or till only once in a while. The downside of no till, is a lot more weeds to deal with if there is no mulch.
It actually was cheaper to rent a roto tiller than to buy one. The little one I had required maintenance every 24 hours of use. I bought the filters and parts from Sears until they shut down, then I ordered them online from the manufacturer. If I had sent the tiller out for maintenance, the cost for the maintenance was half the cost of a new tiller. I sounds like you need to rent a tractor or a bobcat.
It actually was cheaper to rent a roto tiller than to buy one. The little one I had required maintenance every 24 hours of use. I bought the filters and parts from Sears until they shut down, then I ordered them online from the manufacturer. If I had sent the tiller out for maintenance, the cost for the maintenance was half the cost of a new tiller. I sounds like you need to rent a tractor or a bobcat.
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greenstubbs
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I took out some trees and these are getting more light now, I haven't done a thing besides cuttin out the dead of the neglected landscape! A nice little treat for Sun. B-fast! I need to read more about these!
BTW_ I have 9 zooks on the shelf to eat or give away, they're so easy to grow! Sorry, no pics.
BTW_ I have 9 zooks on the shelf to eat or give away, they're so easy to grow! Sorry, no pics.
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greenstubbs
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