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applestar
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Re: Applestar’s 2019 Garden

Micro Dwarf tomatoes — if you haven’t tried growing them, I highly recommend. Currently available varieties are mostly super cute extra early determinate cherries. I think some saladette sized varieties might be turning up?

Beware of earlier varieties that are tart, crunchy, mushy, or flavorless. I’m trying out some new to me varieties, though varieties I grew last year were all pretty good to great.

These are my Aztek and Pinocchio Orange seedlings at about 3 weeks. They have been growing in 55-70°F conditions. For size reference Aztek are in Chobani yogurt containers.
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...I’m going to try to grow Peas two different ways — these will be pre-germinated and started indoors in something small — I tried plastic egg cases before but found them to be too small and difficult to manage the connected cells if the seedlings get overgrown. I think individual separate cups would be better for starting this early — trying to remember if it was 3 oz or 5 oz that was recommended.
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...I think I’m also going to try direct sowing later, although I think I had the best results when I pre *sprouted* the pre-germinated peas in the plastic egg cases, then planted them in the garden barely covered so they would actually sprout in 2-3 days, so I might try that way again.

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applestar
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Today’s batch of Seed/SpoonZips —

- After reviewing past seed-starting notes, I decided to try skipping the spoons for these square seedzip bags ... just a little bit of DE sand.

- But the deeper/longer bags definitely need the spoons for easily removing the germinated and sprouted seeds, and cut-off spoonheads are sometimes difficult/dangerously sharp-edged to handle, so I‘m using space-wasting whole spoons with just these 5 CHERRY varieties.

- largest is a snackzip bag with a vitamin lid of DE sand. I’m going to be looking for 2 or 3 particular/special traits with this one — my Shimofuri F6 segregate — so I will start off with a lot of seeds.

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...I realized if I copied and mirror image flipped the spoon labels, I would be able to read them, so heh. :()

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applestar
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Aji Dulci Amarillo pepper — I’m told this is a wonderfully flavored aromatic seasoning pepper. Looking forward to tasting it and mixing it into fermented pepper sauces and dehydrated paprika’s.

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Allyn
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The Aji Dulci Amarillo pepper sounds lovely.

Where did you find the square Ziploc bags?

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applestar
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@Allyn, I get the the little ziplock bags on Amazon — you can find them under bead crafts (or I think coin collecting) — I keep ones I’m looking for in the shopping cart and watch the price go up and down, then buy when it’s at mostly lowest. I tried getting them at a local W mart which is usually suggested, but I could never find any. I finally asked, and the woman stocking the shelves there said kids steal them (presumably) for nefarious purposes. I must admit I had mixed feelings hearing that.

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applestar
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OK, I forgot to take pics of the germinated Emerald Archer and Sugar Magnolia peas, but I decided what to do with them and sowed (only the germinated seeds of) Emerald Archer in 1/2 gal rice milk cartons standing on their narrow side, and Sugar Magnolia 3@ in 5 oz paper cups yesterday.

Today, Super Sugar Snap and Iona Petit Pois are germinating and need to be sown.

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The peas are easy and quick to pre-germinate at 55-65°F. Put the rinsed and thoroughly drained pea seeds in warmest part of the fridge if room temp is too warm since they also spoil easily. They should germinate within 3-5 days.

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applestar
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Here are some sprouted Pineapple Pig seedlings being potted up. I’m starting these in community pots since I’m growing out two different batches of seeds from different sources — grown in my garden in 2013 and original source seeds which presumably were harvested in 2012 but wasn’t marked.

Pineapple Pig is an extra tall-growing Indeterminate and seedlings tend to grow vigorously. When using this technique, if you are very careful, it doesn’t hurt them to get as big as the one with very long taproot and side roots starting to grow while still in the seedzip bags. Vermiculite was used for germinating medium in this case.
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SQWIB
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Ok, I have to ask, "where the hell are you gonna plant everything"?
Lol.

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applestar
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:oops: ...I don’t know? :oops: :> :mrgreen:

(Um. I started the rest of the dwarf, indeterminate and my own cross tomatoes ....) nutz:

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applestar
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List of started tomatoes — kept total number of varieties under 75 :() . Nomination for this year’s main season line up is CLOSED. :P Variety selection is based on flavor — some are on my family’s annual returning fave list, many are repeats pending addition to the fave list, and new-to-me have been chosen for reputation of excellence :D

Type Variety
Tomato ** Dwf MICRO** Aztek
Tomato ** Dwf MICRO** Pinocchio Orange
Tomato ** DWF** Blazing Beauty
Tomato ** DWF** Blush
Tomato ** DWF** Chocolate Lightning
Tomato ** DWF** CTBS, PL Ind F3
Tomato ** DWF** CTBS, RL Dwf F3
Tomato ** DWF** Manö x Matt’s Wild Cherry F3
Tomato ** DWF** Mikado NOT White - Mottled Dark Pink PL
Tomato ** DWF** Monomakh’s Hat
Tomato ** DWF** Mr. Snow
Tomato ** DWF** Pink Passion
Tomato ** DWF** Sweet Splash Pink, A2, F5 PL
Tomato ** DWF** Sweet Splash Yellow, A2, F5 PL
Tomato ** DWF** Totem F1
Tomato ** DWF** Uluru Ochre
Tomato ** DWF** Yellow Dwarf x Sungold F3
Tomato ** DWF** Yukon Quest
Tomato **CHERRY** Anna's Multiflora
Tomato **CHERRY** Champagne Cherry
Tomato **CHERRY** Coyote
Tomato **CHERRY** CoyoteRosa Bébé (pink coyote-like volunteer)
Tomato **CHERRY** Earl’s Green Cherry/Bassett’s Bleen
Tomato **CHERRY** Green Doctor
Tomato **CHERRY** Lady Fingers MR.C F4
Tomato **CHERRY** Matt’s Wild Cherry
Tomato **CHERRY** Molten Sky MR.C F4-A3
Tomato **CHERRY** MR.ZM F3 4B-P3 (yellow pt.grape striped)
Tomato **CHERRY** Wild Rosa MR.C F4-A1
Tomato **DET** 42 Days
Tomato **DET** Bloody Butcher
Tomato **DET** Manö
Tomato **DET** MR.C F4-Xshort
Tomato **DET** Pennheart Dwf/Det
Tomato **DET** Shimofuri F6 #1-5
Tomato **IND** Pineapple Pig
Tomato **IND** 1884 Purple
Tomato **IND** Allons-y,Dr.X F4
Tomato **IND** Ananas Blau
Tomato **IND** Aunt Ruby’s German Green
Tomato **IND** Believe It or Not
Tomato **IND** Big Cheef
Tomato **IND** Brad’s Black Heart
Tomato **IND** Cherokee Lime
Tomato **IND** Cow’s Tit
Tomato **IND** Earl’s Faux
Tomato **IND** Faelan’s First Snow
Tomato **IND** Fish Lake Oxheart
Tomato **IND** Gold Medal
Tomato **IND** Grightmire’s Pride
Tomato **IND** Homer Fike’s Yellow Heart
Tomato **IND** Lucky Cross
Tomato **IND** Opalka
Tomato **IND** Prue
Tomato **IND** Royal Hillbilly
Tomato **IND** Sgt. Pepper’s
Tomato **IND** Snowball /White Beauty
Tomato **IND** Steelhead
Tomato **IND** Terhune
Tomato **IND** Wes
Tomato **IND** Wessel’s Purple Pride
Tomato **IND** White Wonder
Tomato **IND** Yellow Brandywine
Tomato **IND** Zena’s Gift

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Tom Thumb peas started to germinate yesterday, so I sowed them in this plastic tub. It looks shallower in the photo, but is actually about 4.5x4.5x10” ... but 9 peas 1 inch apart might have been pushing it. Advantage of these recycled food containers is that there is no problem in cutting the bottom off with a box knife and settling it on top of a larger container full of fresh potting mix for the roots to spread out.
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For the time being it will go on top of the Winter Paradise shelves (dubbed ‘Winter Paradise Penthouse’ ) — two 24” t5 tubes and a torchere floor lamp fitted with Y adapter and 1 26W daylight CFL and 1 100W equivalent LED bulbs (and a DIY sideways reflector made of aluminum foil lasagna pan) — with the other peas where Emerald Archer and Sugar Magnolia are starting to sprout. :D

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Yesterday’s started tomato seeds have been zeedzipped— vermiculite again. Ran out of spoons so some are using forks with straws to lift the plastic away a bit.

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But the DE-only seedzips of tomatoes are starting to germinate (so this works, too :-() ) and some have sprouted while I wasn’t looking

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...because this pre-germinating method to start seeds is initially extremely space-saving, you can get in REAL TROUBLE (these are my Shimofuri F6 seeds on a vitamin lid) :shock:

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— since I usually start out with mixture of old and new eggplant and pepper seeds (and I always have trouble starting those), tomatoes —especially the vigor of last year’s home garden-saved seeds— inevitably blow me away.

But it’s very gratifying to see older seeds like this 2013 Pennheart and 2014 Manö come alive.
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...it’s getting pretty crowded in the tub. I had a narrow windowsill heating mat in there, side-by-side with the full size one connected to the thermostat.

But I realized yesterday or the day before — maybe too late — that the unregulated narrow mat, which I always thought was rather wimpy, was consistently staying around 95-100°F. So I removed it, but I might have “cooked” some of the seeds that haven’t sprouted so far.... Now, I’m keeping the pepper seeds on the regulated mat, and tomato seeds to the side without the mat.



Top-left - I had to try to plant the Shimofuri seedlings somehow — so at least half of them are in this big container.
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- In the Bottom-left photo, Opalka seedlings are trialing my latest crazy idea to uppot in snack size zip bags. I’m looking for perfect large container that would accommodate a whole bunch of them.
- right - WPPH (Winter Paradise Penthouse) peas are starting to sprout

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Part of the secret to my gardening style which embodies “organized chaos” and contradictory, apparent lack of sufficient space and material resources for the number of seeds I start and plants I grow, is sort of based on “Just In Time” production concept.

So just as the tomatoes are starting to sprout and fill up the limited “Winter Paradise” seedling nursery space in the house, the weather outside is moving on from late winter thaw to early spring — above freezing daytime temps and mostly upper 20’s (28°F is the magic number), low 30’s to 40’s nighttime — and the “Garage V8 Nursery” can be emptied of frost and light freeze tolerant, started plants and seedlings. AND the unheated garage temperatures are responding to the outdoor rising temperatures, enough for older tomato seedlings that need low 50’s°F and above to grow without being stunted....


...Today, I planted out the remaining lettuce in divided candy/chocolate tray since they were at their limit. They haven’t been hardened but maybe they will manage OK? I’m planting them in the patio SIP and Earthbox without proper prep (refill/lime/fertilizer strip). This might be a mistake... but I WILL prep them properly for planting heavy feeder warm weather plants later on.

- KGP.SIP2 - Sugar Magnolia, Super Sugar Snap at the far end by the watering tube, and Sugar Sprint down the center, surrounded by Anuenue, Blushed Butter Oaks, Jack Ice, Olga, and Optima lettuces from the divided candy tray (look how COMPLETELY root-bound they were).
- - Loosely covered with translucent tub secured with stakes
- KG (Kitchen Garden) - Sugar Sprint
- KGP.EB - Anuenue, Jack Ice, Olga, and Optima lettuces from the divided candy tray (not hardened off) + a winter survivor purple brassica
- - Loosely covered with vented plastic bowl, cut-off open cap bottle, and boxes and weighted with green coated wire grid (and shaded though not pictured)
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- Hardening off the oldest Dazzling Blue kale and lettuce plants Anuenue, Blushed Butter Oaks, Jack Ice, Olga, and Optima — placed in shade on top of the (unused) rabbit hutch against the NE family room wall on the patio.
...These Dazzling Blue kale plants were started on December 6 to try growing them as Winter Garden crop in he unheated garage which went down to sub-freezing temps 24°F and above. I have been harvesting some baby to small leaves. It seems like they are at the right size to plant out NOW. Would this work for particularly winter hardy broccoli?
...The lettuce seedlings were started on Jan. 30th. So end of January looks like a good timing for lettuce. I should start another batch for succession planting (I guess I’ll use the -now empty- divided candy tray again since that worked out well.)

...I had to start sowing the pre-germinated pea seeds outside since the massive sprouting Shimofuri F6 seeds took me by surprise and I had to turn over about 1/6 of the WPPH space I had been intending to dedicate to peas seedlings. The peas will be going outside soon in any case, and then this space can be used for growing older pepper seedlings that won’t need the extra warmth inside the covered and heat mat-warmed Winter Paradise shelves.

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applestar
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Look at these Emerald Archer peas! I had to go back to Fedco to re-read the description. It’s an afila-type, which explains the tendrils showing up as soon as they sprouted. :arrow: Fedco Seeds-Emerald Archer Shell Peas
https://www.cals.uidaho.edu/edcomm/pdf/PNW/PNW0495.pdf
The afila pea varieties have tendrils replacing the leaflets found on normal pea plants
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...oh BTW, Sugar Magnolia peas (in the square plastic container of 4 paper cups) are also tendril peas. But I’m reading that Magnolia BLOSSOM is the better tasting pea variety. Oh well, I guess next year.

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applestar
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- The Zone8 figs have been moved outside from the Garage “Siberia” (just inside the garage doors) along with Stevia and Sage pots to join the wintersown seed containers.
- The Emerald Archer and Sugar Magnolia pea seedlings have been ushered out to harden off, as were Hestia F1 Brussels Sprout and Brunswick Cabbage seedlings.
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...making room for the Iona Petit Pois seedlings to occupy the observation corner on WPPH, and for tomato seedlings to be brought up out of the covered shelves. They will soon go out to the rapidly emptying Garage V8 Nursery.
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- eggplant seedlings and the earliest started tomato seedlings are starting to grow their true leaves and taller, more vigorous varieties already need to be uppotted or separated if community-sown in Kcups.
- More and more tomato and pepper babies are sprouting and clamoring for their own bit of dirt and space.

- I’m trying planting these tomato seedlings in the clear egg case cells. I usually don’t like to plant seedlings in conjoined cells, but these are all cherry tomato seedlings, and hopefully will undergo nearly the same growth habits.
Image
- Coyote, Champagne Cherry, Bassett’s Bleen, Green Doctors, and Anna’s Multiflora.

SQWIB
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Your kale plants may overwinter if mature and left alone, but you probabl already know that, mine have lasted two winters so far.
This was planted at the end of 2017 growing season, here is a pic February 15, 2018, you can barely make it out. I cut it back and it ended up as feed for some Rehab Animals at the AARK I mulched right over it.
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It came back pretty good by the end of April.
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Middle of June I let it flower
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was cut back a bit and bounced back
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cut back and still growing in September
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October
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I have been growing Perpetual Spinach and Kale here and pretty much keep cutting it back all season and giving to my daughter to feed some of the animals at the AARK.
This Hugelkultur bed gets pretty beat up by wind exposure and the plants don't seem to be bothered.

Hope you don't mind me cluttering up your page lol.


Question on your brassicas, I have some Baby Bok Choy and broccoli, do you think its too soon to start hardening them off? I was going to up pot them this weekend.
I pot-planted a Celeste fig that is supposedly hardy to zone 6, we will see if it makes it, My sage has made it through 4 or so winters with no problem, although it has never flowered it still makes for an attractive plant in the herb garden

I totally agree on not planting in "joined" pots.
I group mine by specific plants and as soon as they are up, they are moved off the heat mat to another tray, then potted up a few weeks later.

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applestar
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It got down to 23°F which is 3° Less than Forecast.

It got colder this morning than the forecasted 26°F, and consequently, my unheated garage went down to 38°F. So good thing I didn’t sent the tomato seedlings out there yet.

I thought 26°F was iffy but OK, but 23? ...waiting to go out and find out if the fig trees, peas and kale/lettuce/cabbage/BS survived.... I guess we will see. I MUST remember to factor in the typical difference of -3 to -4 °F in my own garden’s thermometers and local/amateur weather station readings .vs. forecast (usually based on “official” data taken in typically/often airport micro-climate).

The ones that went outside from the garage should be OK since they are used to mid-20’s and 30’s, but the peas might be a bit shocked or frozen even. Hopefully, the brick patio in the SE-facing house L corner where they are stayed a little warmer — but I forgot to replace the depleted batteries in my remote sensor there, so I have no way of knowing.Image

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@SQWIB - I think your posts and photos help to widen the scope of mine and explain things more. I appreciate your taking the time to join and discuss issues and share your experiences.

Red Russian kale has been a permanent, winter surviving, self seeding crop for me out there. Every time, I think they might be gone, some popped back up. I’m hoping to add this Dazzling Blue to the selection. But Dwarf Scotch kale couldn’t make it through the winter. So I think there might be varietal differences.

Also, some years, the cabbage white butterfly have been too many, and those are inevitably the milder winters that are followed by hotter summer with more summer pests like harlequin stinkbug and the two kinds of cabbage moths. I have considered NOT leaving any of the kale to overwinter, but then they are at their best during the cold when not even the cabbage whites are around. Besides, there are too many other host plants for them around here — e.g. garlic mustard weeds and the farm fields of green manure mustards that are admittedly beautiful in bloom. So it won’t make much difference.

I think broccoli should be fine now but not sure about bock choy. I bet pepperhead212 might be more familiar with the Asian greens. I know the barrel-type Japanese variety of Chinese Cabbage I was trying to grow - Kyoto No.3 - was not as hardy.


What’s perpetual spinach? I haven’t tried that. Hmmm 8) — is it a kind of Chard? The sage were started from seeds last spring and had been growing in the exposed windowbox-on-an-old-picnic bench. I Uppotted them to 1 gal and 2 gal containers for the winter but wasn’t sure if they would make it since they had not been established in the ground, so I put them in “Siberia”. I think they should be fine if planted in much larger container or an appropriate location in the ground. But last time, I lost sage because the location was full sun in the summer but full shade (house shadow) in the colder months, and probably also too moisture holding.... need to see if I have a good place to put them (white sage and broadleaf sage).

SQWIB
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The perpetual spinach (Beta vulgaris var cicla) is a chard and while not a replacement for spinach that many claim, it's pretty close (smaller leaves). I prefer spinach but cant grow it. The way I mostly use this is small leaves cooked with a tad of oil, pinch of salt and red pepper flakes, then topped with Feta Cheese.

Or in a wrap with chicken and feta.
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The leaves are fairly robust
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You may also be interested in Lovage, it is also a perennial, I am hoping mine comes back this year.
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I also had those nasties on my Horseradish plant.
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applestar
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Those baby plants seemed a little wilty yesterday after the exposure to low 20’s, but looked fine this morning.

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I think I haven’t pointed out the one SIP of green overwintered as fall-sown seedlings yet. I had used the simple frame made with extra wire shelving and covered with double layer of plastic sheeting. The plastic sheeting was large enough to drape to the base of the SIP container. But earlier in February, windstorm yanked the tie-down pegs and the plastic had been completely blown off,after which I wasn’t able to securely tie it down.

Among the survivors are spinach (winter Bloomsdale and giant winter were what I planted), arugula, and lettuce (probably North Pole). The purple brassica might be Dazzling Blue kale or Purple Sprouting broccoli.

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- I crowded 3 Brunswick cabbage and 3 Hestia F1 Brussels Sprouts seedlings in the SIP with the peas and lettuces.

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I’m in trouble as I knew I might. I haven’t been feeling well and haven’t been able to keep up :roll:

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— need to get organized —


...I discovered a really cool oddball among my already oddball.... This is what I’m calling “Goldfish” — I believe this is a “sport” of Fish pepper — a fruit that ripened to orange rather than red on a single branch on a regular variegated Fish pepper with fruits ripening to red. I grew out seeds last year, and the resulting single surviving plant produced orange ripening fruits. I’m trying again from original saved seeds since the over-wintered plant didn’t survive.

Among the sprouted seedlings, there was this chartreuse leaved cotyledon seedling. I’d been babying it in the seedzip and waited to see if I had overwatered it, but that didn’t seem to be the case, so I planted it in my usual doubled KCups initial container with a normal, green-leaved sibling. For comparison of colors, I’m keeping them grouped with normal and chartreuse-leaved Cherokee Tiger cross tomato seedlings (designated CTBS).

Image

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I’m still experimenting and learning how best to use the SIP’s for succession planting, but I HAVE found that they offer first planting opportunities in earliest spring outside. I added dolomitic lime and fertilizer and some potting mix to this SIP (KG.SIP3) and planted some Sugar Magnolia peas, Hestia F1 Brussels sprouts, and lettuce — Anuenue, Blushed Butter Oaks, and Jack Ice.
Image
...Inside in the warm season seed starting area, I’m forced to switch to “time saving mode” which is less space and cost efficient, but will not require as much attention:

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applestar
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Busy, busy! :roll: :-() :()

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applestar
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Something has started to sprout in my wintersown mixed greens/herb container. Unfortunately, I don’t remember what I so carefully arranged in a circle along the outer edge.

Does anyone know which of the three — spinach, arugula, or cilantro — sprouts with that intriguing pointed appearance?? You might think arugula would sprout first out of these but I don’t think these look like arugula seedlings

Image

SQWIB
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If I were a betting man, I would go for the Bloomsdale Spinach?

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applestar
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Yeah, that’s right — spinach IS the lowest temp germinating one out of them all.

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Tomato, pepper, and eggplant seedlings occupying (indoor covered plant shelves) Winter Paradise {WP} Penthouse, 2nd, and 1st levels... (yes, I’m falling behind and need to Uppot them all very very soon :oops: )

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In the top left photo, you may notice some browned tips on the baby leaves — WP2 has experienced an explosive fungus gnat infestation. I’m not sure, but suspect pupae in the potting mix. Unfortunately, my normal method — mosquito bits — was not working. Since these are from last spring’s purchase, I think they are too old and I need fresh supply or maybe I will get the liquid formulation of mosquito/fungus gnat Bt rather than these inoculated corn cob pieces.

In the mean time, I’ve been having to use methods that I don’t really like — spraying (liquid soap, oil, alcohol + peroxide) and soil drenching (liquid soap, alcohol + peroxide). But these seedlings were starting to show signs of stunting due to excessive roothair loss. Although fungus gnats are susceptible to being sprayed since they have a habit of opening and closing their wings not only in the air but while crawling around, the trouble is the gnats need to be thoroughly sprayed — to block their breathing pores — and persistently because they will scatter and hide as soon as you start spraying ...and that means the foliage can get stressed from the spray, even though I follow up with rinse spray of plain water. And of course constantly getting sprayed means they become susceptible to fungal infection, even though I am mixing in hydrogen peroxide in the dilution as preventive.

...plus...

Aphids are here, too. :evil: Only a partial and moderate infestation in the house, no doubt thanks to the previously released ladybeetle Indoor Garden Patrol, and so far none in the Winter Paradise. But the Garage V8 Nursery was hit and localized infestation is very severe, meaning the garage was too cold for the previously release ladybeetles to stay active, but warm enough under the lights for the aphids, although they didn’t spread out. I’ve released the last of the refrigerator-stored hibernating ladybeetles :-()

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- Oh, yes, I’m also using traps for the fungus gnats in the Winter Paradise while I have no need to release the ladybeetles in there. Yellow sticky trap is on top of the main WP2 light fixture, and this and other white or clear shallow containers of soapy water are scattered in available spaces UNDER the lights and other nearby surfaces. :twisted:

SQWIB
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I feel your pain, I just handwashed about 40 plants, I was using hydrogen peroxide messing with the mix, I was at about 50% hyrogen peroxide 50% water twice a day, soil and plants were drenched a few day later I noticed some leaf burn so I stopped and have been hand washing the plants or massaging the leaves when I see them.
My poblanos may be a bit stunted and a few plants I'm getting a funky curling of new leaves

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If you are really having aphid infestation, I highly recommend getting ladybugs (I like calling them ladybeetles better :wink: ) — I get mine via amazon, but have seen them in garden centers that also keep/sell bait and earthworms (refrigerator). The adults will be thirsty/hungry after the forced hibernation and will start in on the smorgasbord right away, even though they might not stay on the plant as long as you might wish for, and once they lay eggs and larvae hatch, they will stay on and crawl into every nook and cranny of the plant foliage, demolishing the aphids. The few aphids that might be on seedlings will disappear right away, and larger plants can handle light infestation that might remain to feed and keep the ladybug life cycles going. It’s a good idea to get ladybug food to feed the adults if you don’t have any flowering plants to provide the pollen they need.

Insecticidal soap or liquid soap/oil/alcohol* mixture in tepid water works well for adult aphids if you are not using ladybugs — this mixture will also kill the soft bodied ladybug larvae. But it’s difficult to thoroughly cover the aphids hiding under and inside folded leaves and in leafnode crotches by spraying — I prefer to dunk/swish the plants. You can also use a slightly stronger mix as long as you rinse off the plants. The rinse swish cycle in plain water also helps to make the weakened but not dead aphids let go of the plant and wash them off. Rinse can also be done by spraying with water — the added force is more effective than swishing the plant in water.

I add baking soda or peroxide to guard against fungal infection from too much water. The peroxide also oxygenates the soil to help the roots from anaerobic asphyxiation due to overwatering.

Do you also have fungus gnats? Is that why you are using hydrogen peroxide? My preferred method is to use Bt inoculated water in soil drench to kill off the fungus gnats larvae. I spray the adults with the Bt water to hopefully infect them — this seems to work — as well as trap as much of the flying adults as possible. I don’t use the peroxide treatment when using Bt since I don’t want to weaken or kill the Bt bacteria.

...as mentioned above, I’m currently using the insecticidal soap mixture to kill the adult fungus gnats and soil drenching with peroxide/alcohol*/liquid soap and water mixture to hopefully kill/weaken the adults, new ones emerging from pupae, and maggots in the potting mix — key here is to apply the mixture along the container walls and base. Hydrogen peroxide drench should control the fungus mycelia in the soil which is the what the larvae *should* be eating. But under heavy infestation, they also eat the fine root hairs, which may not be so serious for mature plants but disastrous for seedlings.

The foliage of seedlings directly under the lights need to be rinsed off right away or the mixture will become concentrated as it evaporates and burn the tender leaves, especially peppers. That’s why the leaf tips where the last droplet was hanging and dried off are burned first.

* The alcohol in the mixture helps to emulsify the oil (both of which helps to decrease surface tension of water and suffocate the breathing pores) and also to help dry up the soft bodied bugs, but it also accelerates evaporation.

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applestar
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As of YESTERDAY morning, I am no longer seeing massive emergence of fungus gnats from the seedling containers except for just 2 or 3 persistent ones which needed to be pulled off the shelves and treated again. Hopefully I have effectively broken their life cycle. Those are likely to be the original source — I only mix up and bring in seedling mix in 1.5 gallon batches, and I remember accidentally scooping up some old/used potting mix that I had mislaid UNDER the bag of peat moss thinking it was spillover. Maybe that’s where they had originated.

I think I will continue to use the citrus Dr. Bronner’s liquid soap for making insecticidal mix. I usually use the peppermint or tea tree oil liquid soap for making fungicidal mix.

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applestar wrote:
Do you also have fungus gnats?
20190323_090838.jpg

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applestar
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Went outside and looked around — I need to cut down three big limbs, probably a few smaller branches with pole pruning saw. I won’t do it today — weird heat spike in the 70’s making it too hot layering just short sleeved and long sleeved t-shirts... I want to wear heavier, sleeved jacket and a hat for protection.

Making some mental plans for re-building raised beds and hopefully building a new bed for the Apple Guild bed — along the drip line of the possibly failing Enterprise apple tree.

I almost went out to thoroughly clean up the side garden — Spiral Garden, Sunflower House, and Haybale Row beds and their annex beds.... but remembered just in time that I have to take DD2 to her sewing class today, so that has to wait. Just as well, that would have been hot work, too, though might have been pleasant enough in short sleeves with no bugs to bother me.


...something has eaten my three Quick Start mini-Cabbage seedlings from fence-protected SIP ... vole or mice is my guess. Slugs would have also eaten the lettuce — last seeds that survived, though none of the other older plants are nibbled. I really think somebody doesn’t want me to continue with my mini-Cabbage/crucifer experiment —failed last fall, failed this spring except for ONE Gonzales left .... hmmm, where did I plant the Red Express seedlings?

ETA — I think in preparation BEFORE the Cabbage whites show up, I will put up the netting over the SIP’s and secure the bottom (tied with string or with bungee). This should hopefully also keep out the nibbling rodent.

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applestar
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I was driving around yesterday running errands and noticed that the forsythias in the area are just starting to bloom - a phenological sign for planting potatoes. :D

This year, I missed the opportunity to order seed potatoes, but I did have sprouted potatoes in the pantry a week to 2 weeks ago that I cut the eyes out of and put in a container with barely moistened coir and peat moss. They are starting to grow roots now. — If I don’t come across good seed potatoes within the next week, I’ll probably plant these. I need to get more bales of ProMix and the farmer’s market where I get them from usually has had seed potatoes in the past.

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applestar
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For the last couple of years, I’ve been making do with the last of my 7 ft bamboo poles — reusing them, and supplementing with other materials for weakened state of one’s that have seen several years in all elements of the year.

But I finally, I gave in and bought a bulk bundle of 100 again since there was a free shipping offer. Yay! ...I’m envisioning all kinds of uses including some garden structures that I have been doodling on my mental drawing board. :D

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applestar
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Had a bunch of things I wanted to do outside today, but settled for moving and re-building the primary compost bin/pile.

As expected, the top 2/3 of the full bin was mostly not broken down yet — and during the winter months, the input tends to lean heavily towards paper waste =Browns. By moving the top 1/2 of these with the bin to the middle of the Spiral Garden, I can balance the ratio with the grass and weeds as I prep the beds.

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Once I got down to the clumps of half-composted materials, I found compost worms everywhere, very active and busy. Larger still-whole pieces and sticks and bones were added to the compost bin. Half-finished materials along with the worms went into the tumbler to finish composting, and I have a pile of finished compost that need to be screened that can be used to prep some beds.

I left the lid off and used the 1/2 barrel to loosely cover since it’s supposed to rain tomorrow and the pile needs to be watered.


...when I first approached the compost bins, a huge rabbit hounded away along the outside of the fenced garden area towards the gate. It looks like I will have to be extra vigilant and make sure all the garden fences are bunny-proofed.

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applestar
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I had to get this done before it started to rain. I should have been able to finish yesterday, but I’m still weak and flabby after winter-long slump. As the gardening season progresses, I should get fitter — muscle strength and endurance.

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I’m not very particular about how to screen the compost. Today’s compost screen was rigged from the green wire fence layered with 1” chicken wire fence. Bigger pieces tumbled down without going through, into the compost tumbler lid, and were dumped in the tumbler for finishing. I didn’t take a good photo of the result, but I consider this sufficient for using in beds and very large containers when they are repotted or to go outside for the season.

I use an old cat litter sifting tray to screen compost for use in smaller containers and uppotting after true leaves. (The tray is from a litter box set I bought for a previous cat. The design concept sounded good, but in practice, it was a complete disaster — cat litter dust wafting everywhere, mushy stuff stuck in the grid — blecch. It wasn’t in use for very long. :roll: ) I would use the riddle with smaller screen for very small seedlings.

While shifting through the compost, I also harvested a cottage cheese container of smaller worms to start a vermicomposter and put in some of the container plants.

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applestar
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Did some basic clean up in the VG (Vegetable Garden) area. Added screened compost to some of these beds.

- The PSRB’s (Pallet Sided Raised Beds) along the vinyl picket fence need a complete overhaul to refill to the top.
- Just need to fluff and add lime_fertilizer to the SIP
- I’m thinking of turning the large rectangular bed (combo VGC and VGD) into a “sorta” keyhole bed by placing an elliptical worm/compost bin in the middle — the wire border fence is NOT this final version. Melons in the bed this season.
- Would like to re-build the VGA bed (arched PVC) and bring up the small VGB bed beyond it to be same level as VGA, but may jut give up and plant — should top up VGA if possible.

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... see the yellow peach starting to bloom? :D

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applestar
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Had noticed some new mosquito larvae in some of the water reservoir buckets and the upper “pond” last week, so I have been treating with the last of the Mosquito Bits — I’ve been needing to use much more than when these are fresh, and sprinkled some more yesterday.

Today, was glad to note dead mosquito larvae suspended in those waters, but there was a persistent few live ones in the upper “pond” so I went around treating with the liquid - Mosquito Lift - that came in a couple of days ago to finish them off. DIE! You pesky buggers, DIE!!! :twisted:

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applestar
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I was thinking this morning, as I noted near complete absence of fungus gnats, that I like the idea of the biological control turning the fungus gnat maggots into fertilizer in the potting mix :twisted: —- what do you think? Mostly nitrogen? :P

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applestar
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Yesterday, noticed that the BEST growing seedling out of all of these (a Pinocchio Orange) has first set of tiny floral truss starting to grow. They were started on Feb. 7, according to the post.

Mon Feb 11, 2019
applestar wrote:I’m not ready to call my garden started, but the 2/7 trial Aztek and Pinocchio Orange began to sprout since yesterday. They being “temporary” and “trial” I put their little (pint berry container inside a clamshell) on a footstool in front of the space heater, and whaddayaknow? O_o

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