User avatar
MoonShadows
Senior Member
Posts: 149
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2017 4:50 am
Location: Stroudsburg, PA - Zone 6a

Re: Applestar’s 2018 Garden

Looking real good @applestar! Your off to a good start. I'm like you. I love this time of the year. I feel like I'm getting ready for "opening night". Lights, music, action....I'm like a kid anticipating Christmas!

I started some seeds in the cold frames in my greenhouse last Saturday: lettuce, spinach, green onions (scallions), cabbage and Brussel sprouts. My jiffy pots arrived from GreenhouseMegastore. I bought 100 of them (4 x 4" square) for under $20. I used Cow Pots last year to start my outside vegetables, but I got an excellent deal on them; they are 5x more than jiffy pots wherever I looked this year.

I'm also making my own soilless seed mix this year. I found this "recipe" on the Penn State Extension website:
2 gallons Peat Moss
2 gallons Vermiculite
4 Tbsp dolomite lime
2 tsp slow release organic fertilizer

I am going to add: Wildroot Organic Mycorrhizal Fungi (15 species) Endo & Ecto Mycorrhizae Inoculant Powder Concentrate for Plants. This is found in many quality soilless seed starters.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077C ... UTF8&psc=1
untitled.png
untitled.png (54.87 KiB) Viewed 10891 times
I just got a bunch of different flower seeds from Vermont Wildflower Farm including: lavender, butterfly weed, columbine, creeping thyme, marigolds, nasturtium, verbena, and zinnias. Vegetables will be: tomatoes, potatoes, corn, peppers, egg plant, cucumbers in addition to the ones I've already stated. I always have basil, parsley and oregano going inside. I'll start the seeds in my greenhouse on March 21. I am dying to start them now, but I don't want to start them too early. I can't move them outside until mid-May here in the Poconos.

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

Thanks for the tip about the myco — I might try it. Please keep us posted. 1-oz must be a tiny little baggie but I suppose it doesn’t take much?

... I have more updates :D

SQWIB’s cabbage reports got me starting some cabbages :roll:

Image
- not many, but just a token amount to be able to say I grew some this year. :>
- Red Chidori kale didn’t sprout well in the last round, so I’m trying again.

...seed fairy sent me some White and Broadleaf sages and VARIEGATED plantain seeds to try growing, and they started to sprout. Yay! :-()

Image

User avatar
MoonShadows
Senior Member
Posts: 149
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2017 4:50 am
Location: Stroudsburg, PA - Zone 6a

@applestar...Yes, the scoop, that makes a gallon, is really small. The entire bag is the size of a large family size kool-aid envelope. The 1oz bag makes 50 gallons when diluted, and you really only need a bit on each plant. They say 1 gallon is enough for 100 - 1 gallon pots.

What are you using for seed starter soil? It almost looks like a casserole in these last pics! What is that top dressing?

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

@MoonShadows — 1st group of Red Chidori and a some others had damping off problems, so I decided to go back to basics and try just vermiculite. I do have to plant them in more nutrient mix quickly, but they are sprouting well. With other recently started batch, I’m pressing the seeds in top of the potting mix and then covering with vermiculite as top layer.

...do you want to see my seed starting log?
Image
- I’m not so concerned with overall germination rate, but like to note when first Sprouts put up above the mix. This helps me know what to expect -how long it takes them to start growing- from each kind of seed after sowing.

{ I clipped a handful of the 2-3” baby lettuce for a cocktail shrimp and sriracha mayo on Jewish rye sandwich :() }
Image
- I had given up on the celery, but they are all sprouting after 12 days
- out of all those spinach seeds, and only TWO sprouted. They don’t do well outside either, and what little come up get eaten by slugs. Maybe I should just give up on growing spinach.... :?
- looks like IcebergA lettuce seeds are just too old, and the Solanacea broccoli seeds are only just.

...Time to buy fresh seeds! :|

SQWIB
Greener Thumb
Posts: 970
Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2016 9:21 am
Location: Zone 7A - Philadelphia, PA

Looking good, I thought I had damping off on my Broccoli so I let it dry out, everything wilted then I bottom watered, we will see.

Hows the Artichokes, I'm gonna try and get mine outside by next week and put them through vernilization for 10 days or so.

Image

Image

SQWIB
Greener Thumb
Posts: 970
Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2016 9:21 am
Location: Zone 7A - Philadelphia, PA

applestar wrote:@MoonShadows — 1st group of Red Chidori and a some others had damping off problems, so I decided to go back to basics and try just vermiculite. I do have to plant them in more nutrient mix quickly, but they are sprouting well. With other recently started batch, I’m pressing the seeds in top of the potting mix and then covering with vermiculite as top layer.

|
Do you use a fan, I have one set up to go on three times a day for half an hour to an hour, helps prevent damping off (sometimes), lets just say it gives a wider margin of error when watering.

The fan also stimulates the plant to sturdy up those stems, I'm sure you know that, but I just like to hear myself type :D

User avatar
MoonShadows
Senior Member
Posts: 149
Joined: Mon Dec 11, 2017 4:50 am
Location: Stroudsburg, PA - Zone 6a

I keep one of my fans in my greenhouse running on low 24/7.

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

I do use fans sometimes, depending on location. Most of the time, though I try to set up each location to create a passive thermodynamic air flow. I also tend to put them in the unheated garage as they grow, and the cooler temp forces stockier growth, especially for tomatoes IN THE 50’S, but it seems to work for the cooler season seedlings as well when the garage is in the 40’s.

I wanted to make my own starting/potting mix as usual, but I had a hectic fall/winter and don’t have the key ingredient ready/available — screened Compost or well established and ready to harvest vermicompost. I really think that is the root of the problem.

I’ve admitted defeat and ordered a couple of bags of premium organic potting mix to be delivered to a local hardware store. So hopefully I can rescue my sorry looking, slow growing seedlings and they will be ready when it’s time to plant them out. For the time being, I found last cup or so of tomato-tone which I can use to feed them with.

I have uppotted most of the cabbage and kale seedlings that sprouted in the vermiculite. Some of them are just sprouted and haven’t unfolded their seedleaves completely, but I’m shuffling the available spaces right now and resisting cleaning out/readying another shelf, so I stuck them in available spaces where the sage didn’t sprout.... if they survive, they survive, if not, I have enough.

Two of the hot peppers — Barker’s Hot and Hanoi Market have sprouted at 7 days. :-()

SQWIB
Greener Thumb
Posts: 970
Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2016 9:21 am
Location: Zone 7A - Philadelphia, PA

applestar wrote: I also tend to put them in the unheated garage as they grow, and the cooler temp forces stockier growth, especially for tomatoes IN THE 50’S, but it seems to work for the cooler season seedlings as well when the garage is in the 40’s.
That is good to know, Ill cut my heat back to about 60 when my eggplant seedlings are started, thanks for the tip.

User avatar
digitS'
Super Green Thumb
Posts: 3925
Joined: Sun Sep 26, 2010 1:10 pm
Location: ID/WA! border

I'm being inspired and that inspiration is needed because we all need that and it develops within but also from without.

AppleStar, you have already reminded me that I should be starting my celeriac seed. I find that it's a little easier to grow than celery.

Kale. Last year there were 4 types in my garden. They have all been there once or many times but not together. AppleStar has my favorite, the Portuguese. I've eaten Scotch since childhood and DW likes it a good deal. Russian is great but I've only grown it twice; fortunately, the aphids didn't bother it as much in 2017 as previously.

I thought, "ah ha, chidori kale!" But, that's an ornamental. "Well, there's this variegated plantain ..." But, I've eaten the weed plantain and didn't think much of it ... I will wait for reports :wink: .

Looking at my seed lists, the tomato patch will be crowded as usual but not one thing new. I have my fingers crossed for the peppers, as usual. The list has not one thing new. I'm hopeful that the garden center will have something new in the seed potato bins but it will likely be entirely up to them and they are very consistent in having not one thing new! Squash, I will be trusting old favorites and bringing back a variety that did well twice before but, otherwise, not one thing new!

In the ornamental beds there will be 4 new snapdragon varieties, quite a few new dahlias but in the veggies, not one thing new! Now before you say "artichokes" please know that I was born on the Monterey Peninsula and must have been frightened by fields of the plants as a small child :wink: . I don't know if artichokes would grow here but I'll allow others to grow them.

What are your ideas for something that inspired you in recent seasons and you are inspired to start now, or soon?

Steve

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

I’m going to try eating it, but maybe not so much the spring planting — we will see. I will definitely plant for fall crop later and try them in cooler weather/after a touch of frost as suggested.
Kale - Red Chidori Kale
https://www.territorialseed.com/product/ ... /kale_seed

Red Chidori Kale

50 days. Almost too pretty to eat, but we urge you to indulge! This frilly leaf kale has dark outer leaves and extra deep red central foliage. Plants stay compact for denser plantings. Cooler weather intensifies the brilliant color and also brings out its remarkable, sweet flavor. Whether planted in your vegetable or flower garden, you'll want to admire them, but one taste and you'll be craving more!
According to this website, this variety has the best cold hardiness, which has always been a problem here since we seem to get down to freezing temps with very few warning frost days at or after first frost. I think I will try to make sure they are protected at least with open sided plastic sheeting roof they recommend at this site — I think it says enclosed tunnel is not recommended because you want them to get chilled for best color.
https://www.takii.co.jp/flower/leaflet/FHB014_a.html

Both the outer leaves and the colored parts are dark scarlet, coloring is also somewhat slow, but the degree of shrinkage tightness is outstandingly excellent. Dwarf species with particularly large number of leaves. Cold resistance is the strongest among the crepe type.

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

I’m starting these sweet peppers and the Big Jim -not sweet- which I forgot about:

Chocolate Cake
Giant Sweet Devil’s Horn
Bill’s Striped (P-sweet -a )
Oxhorn of Carmagnola (P, sweet, red - a )
Sweet Orange Doux cross
Lipstick

Big Jim


Hopefully a whole bunch of new and old tomatoes, including Goat Bag which is reported to be better than Rebecca Sebastian’s Bull Bag.... as well as carrying forward my crosses and some of the superior performers from last year.

Several kinds of Nigella and Nasturtiums....

Later for warm weather crop, a new winter squash will be Greek Sweet Red, and an SVB RESISTANT summer squash Tatume for sure. Trying a melon called Sweet Freckles.

User avatar
lakngulf
Greener Thumb
Posts: 1294
Joined: Mon May 10, 2010 4:34 pm
Location: Lake Martin, AL

I decided this year to purchase eggplant and pepper plants instead of trying to grow them from seed in my greenhouse. It takes SO LONG to get them up and going for me. And I can use all the space for Cherokee Purple tomatoes, corn, beans and squash!

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

You are right about eggplants and peppers. Every year, it’s a challenge to get them going for me, though I am still going to try ...mostly for the hard-to-get varieties — 2 more have started to sprout today after 10 days — Goldfish (my orange fruited sport/mutation of the variegated Fish pepper, and Aleppo Syrian strain, which is supposed to be have an unusual sweetness along with heat)

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

Last fall, I sowed some seeds for fall/winter/overwinter crop... but life got in the way. They were neglected, I missed the chance to harvest before the arrival of The Deep Freeze, and I lost most of the fall-harvestables including Daikon and carrots which froze unharvestably solid (sometimes these survive enough to go to seed in spring). I had mostly given up on them all, but yesterday, I noticed a new stirring of growth under the covers.... :-()

- I believe most of these under the long netting hoops are North Pole lettuce... I also see a few spinach. That window and the black bag of wood shaving were my desperate attempt to add some kind of additional protection.
Image

- What looks like purple Vienna kohlrabi in a weedy patch... and I was pressed for time and didn’t get a chance to peek under the double 3mil tunnel which was the bed that was supposed to have been harvested in the fall.
Image

Reference: posted Oct 29, 2017
Subject: Applestar's 2017 Garden
applestar wrote:I FINALLY had a chance to take some photos of my garden :()

I guess this would be my fall garden. I’m going to put hoop over everything to hopefully keep these greens going.
Image

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

Waaahh :shock: :cry:

Image

User avatar
Gary350
Super Green Thumb
Posts: 7396
Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2009 1:59 pm
Location: TN. 50 years of gardening experience.

Your black potting soil in picture #3 sure does look good I wish I had 5 dump truck loads of that in my garden. It is amazing how much stuff you have planted in pots & trays. I am just getting started planting seeds in pots & trays in my homemade potting soil I make every year form compose tree leaves, wood ash, garden soil. My cilantro is coming up. I have 96 flowers planted in 24 trays they are starting to grow..

User avatar
digitS'
Super Green Thumb
Posts: 3925
Joined: Sun Sep 26, 2010 1:10 pm
Location: ID/WA! border

Seed starting is something of a precise business. I was optimistic to try Coyote as a direct-seeded tomato in 2017. What a concept for this northern gardener!

My seed had been saved for this lightening-quick variety but hadn't been tested for germination. However, the total failure of any seed to sprout may be explained by the garden environment. Field sprinklers on 4" pipe is used and drops from those sprinklers fall heavily on the soil. Probably, the tiny seed was disturbed in their shallow location, washed to the surface or buried too deep by displaced soil.

I looked on that saved seed with suspicion this morning. Saved seeds for other varieties already sown are doing well, I'm pleased to say. What about this Coyote??? I still put some in the soil mix but went back to find seed sent to me by a friend and how this variety came to be in my garden. It is from plants grown in 2013 ... There was no problem with that seed 4 years ago ... my confidence level rose about double including that "original" seed in the mix.

Moments later! DW came by to see what I was doing and jostled my elbow! I spilled another variety of tomato seed in my saved Coyote batch! Well ... Starting seed is a quite a risky business for clumsy ...

digitS'

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

:lol: good luck digitS — May the Force be with you :>

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

~~~ Family stuff...family stuff...family stuff... endlessly going on in my life since end of last summer until now and foreseeable future ~~~~


Got hold of Coast of Maine organic potting mix to try (free delivery to local hardware store).

- Uppotted Some of the cabbages and kales yesterday
- Uppotted Hanoi Market (2) and Gold Fish (1) hot peppers
- Diamond eggplant sprouted after 23 days

- Started these tomatillos and peppers today. 6 seeds @ for each kind of tomatillo and 5 seeds @ for the peppers except Bill’s Striped for which I sowed another 5 seeds using a different seed starting method for total of 10.

Green & Purple Tomatillo
Chocolate Cake
Giant Sweet Devil’s Horn
Bill’s Striped
Oxhorn of Carmagnola
Sweet Orange Doux cross
NuMex Lemon Spice (3 seeds from runty Winter’17-18)

...I really wanted to start hardening off the older lettuce, kale, cabbage, and artichoke seedlings this past Sunday, but I’m afraid to put them outside and then forget to bring them in since weather has been so uncertain. I think we’ve had snowfall and snow flurries three days this week. Even today, snow flurries and gusty winds. :?

SQWIB
Greener Thumb
Posts: 970
Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2016 9:21 am
Location: Zone 7A - Philadelphia, PA

In the same boat with my Artichokes, Cabbages and Broccoli.

Image

I would take a chance planting the cabbage and broccoli and hardening off the Artichokes if temps were 35°F and above for the low. The Maypops are a different story.
Image


The Bok Choy needs to get in the ground ASAP, I may give it a go this weekend, at least try a couple.

Image

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

...my lettuces, etc. are STILL in the garage... :?
The Black Rose lettuce looks amazing though. Other two varieties are Rosemary and Cos lettuce Valmaine.
Image

Finally getting around to tackling the tomato seeds — I have to skip some usual steps and hope for the best, but I feel like I skipped a critical step when I started the pepper seeds dry, so I’m soaking the tomato seeds for 4-6 hours in chamomile tea first —

Image

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

Started these tomatoes. Hopefully they will all grow :-()

CHERRY - MY CROSSES AND SPECIAL INTEREST
Brown MF SGAX-S by compost
Buttermints F4
Coyote Rosa Bébé F4
Ladyfingers F4
Molten Sky F4
Wild Rosa F4
Helsing Junction Blues
Napa Rosé
Sweet Aperitif

SHORT, MICRO, AND DWARF
Jack Frost’s Early Love F5
Shimofuri #1 F5
Shimofuri #2 F5
MRxCF.F3.SFHX Short wispy white elongated pointed cherry F4
Micro Jochalos
Micro Pinocchio Orange
Dwarf Blazing Beauty
Dwarf Chocolate
Dwarf Chocolate Lightning
King Aramis (Dwf Grandma Oliver’s Chocolate)
Dwarf Lemon Ice
Dwarf Uluru Ochre

INDETERMINATE - SPECIAL INTEREST GROUP 1
Allons-y, Dr.X F4
Canestrino Della Garfagnana
Faelan’s First Snow
Goat Bag
Gold Medal
Manlinga 2015 <— I think this is supposed to be Maralinga (dwarf)
Zena’s gift

INDETERMINATE - SPECIAL INTEREST GROUP 2
Big Cheef
Blackberry
D.B. Cooper
Japanese Golden Pear
Maiden Voyage F4
Northern Lights
Pruden’s Black
Rebel Yell
===========================
Total number tomato varieties — 36
Last edited by applestar on Wed Mar 28, 2018 3:24 am, edited 2 times in total.
Reason: Maralinga correction

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

I’m using seedzip as well as Kcup methods. I wanted to do all Kcups, but I haven’t saved enough used cups — I guess need to drink more coffee! ;)

Image

...seedzip method IS more efficient and saves time and space when starting them, but they need to be monitored more closely/frequently to keep from drying out, and need secondary start in another container as soon as they germinate/sprout. On the other hand, only germinated seeds are sown in the starter pot/container, so it saves space under the lights....

User avatar
rainbowgardener
Super Green Thumb
Posts: 25279
Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:04 pm
Location: TN/GA 7b

SQWIB, artichokes, cabbages and broccoli are all very cold hardy. Mine have been planted for a long time and have gone through all these last freezes we have been having here at the end of the season.
IMG_2132.JPG
that's a broccoli picture I took ten days ago. They have grown a lot since then. Leaves on the different plants are nearly touching.

SQWIB
Greener Thumb
Posts: 970
Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2016 9:21 am
Location: Zone 7A - Philadelphia, PA

Apple, looking good, it's a lot of work isn't it? lol.

Rainbow, thanks, I will harden off the broccoli, Bok Choy and Artichokes this weekend. This Week (NOAH) still show that DAM 29° LOW, and YAY more snow Saturday, it is starting to get on my DAM nerves.
Oh well I'll be on the river canoeing the following weekend.
I may just kill everything and buy starts at HD.

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

Everybody mentioning their spring gardening in their posts has prompted me to start hardening off some of my starts as well, though mine are looking pretty sad — it’s been cold in the unheated garage and only seedlings that have been happily growing are the lettuce.

I put a black rubber boot tray on top of 7 inches of snow on the patio table, then placed these trays of lettuce and artichoke seedlings, some kale and cabbage, as well as cauliflower. They got about 2 hours of weak sunlight today and spent the rest of the afternoon in the house shadow before being brought back inside. I’ll put them out again during the daylight hours.
Image

imafan26
Mod
Posts: 13961
Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:32 am
Location: Hawaii, zone 12a 587 ft elev.

It all looks so great. I can't believe you have all this growing and it is still frosty outside.

A while back you said you used coir. How do you use your coir? Are you using the fine or the coarse and what do you mix in it. I am thinking of using the coarse one for orchids but I did not like it much when we used in in the aquaponic beds. It was better for roots crops than cinder, but it was very heavy. Weeds are harder to get out of it than with cinder. Do you have to use more nitrogen and phosphorus when you use it because when it is wet it is really wet, but when it is dry it is very dry.

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

@imafan, I sift the reconstituted/dampened block shredded coir with 1/2” screen and use the fines for seedlings and uppotting mix, and chunks for large pots and containers. I usually blend with commercial organic potting mix and (garden or vermi) compost plus sand/DE sand, calcined clay, gravel/pumice gravel, and/or XL perlite, fine chip bark mulch.

I was using commercial organic fertilizer last year — Espoma Tomato-tone or Dr Earth all purpose (4-4-4) for seedlings ... most of the larger container plants got Citrus-tone. They also always got baby or adult wormyworms (red wigglers) in the pot. (Works well except when baby worm gets too big in pepper seedling starter — need to wait to put a baby worm in until uppot stage)

I like the way coir doesn’t turn hydrophobic when dried out — peat moss is a pain in that respect.

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

I found seeds for Afternoon Rosé! Along with Lady Fingers, this is an unstriped sibling to the striped Wild Rosa and Molten Sky, and they are all large elongated cherries. For the small cherry size segregates, I’m growing Buttermints and Coyote Rosa Bébé from the same Maglia Rosa x Coyote/Faelan’s First Snow cross. Oh yes, I’m also growing the short plant white pointed cherry segregate.

Of course I also found a few more varieties and experimental crosses to add to this year’s growlist, as well as seeds from an unlabeled delicious fruit (I know it had to be Bear Creek or Faelan’s First Snow, so it should be easy enough to ID even in seedling stage), and I also found winter grown unseeded fruits from my Dwarf Arctic Rose x Utyonok F1 growout. When I tried to collect seeds from the wrinkled but intact fruits, they had all already sprouted inside in one fruit and many had germinated in the other, so I had to sow them to get them to grow to next generation THIS year....

Afternoon Rosé F4
FFS or Bear Creek(tbug)
NRAM VGB.PSRB F3
Wes SFH-9.9.17 14 oz
WSxFFSlv VGB largest fruit F5
The Witz SFH’17
Ernie’s Plump SFH-9.6.17

Dwarf Arctic Rose x Utyonok (W’17-18) F2

Image

=44 ...you didn’t REALLY think I would stop at 36 varieties, didja? LOL


...and my babies are enjoying the sun for the 2nd day — grow strong my litt’l ones! :D
Image

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

I found use for disposable contact lenses cups :D

Image

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

Image Image


...the tomatillos (which were first to sprout) are in the middle — I sowed purples on one side and greens on the other, so if the purplish hue in the hypocotyl is any indication, I have 2 of each at this point :D

...for some reason, Bill’s Striped were stalled at knuckle stage while Oxhorn of C and Giant DH have stood up and spread their seed leaves. Maybe Bill’s like it warmer? I left the lights on last night in case they are feeling the chill during the night. :idea:

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

Larger pill bottles have been recruited for seedling starters as well (3/8” hole drilled in the bottom). From here on, zip bag method and Kcup method require pretty constant monitoring to succeed since germinated/sprouted seeds need to be sown and growing seedlings separated and uppotted as they outgrow the limited tiny containers in a constant stream of “Just In Time” production. However, doing this does save space and total number supplies since containers can be washed and re-used as seedlings outgrow them, and every square inch of space on the heat mat and under the lights will be used by GROWING seedlings, not empties that are waiting to sprout and show some kind of life. I have such limited amount of space for the number of plants I want to grow that I can’t afford squatters.

Image

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

I was unwilling to accept failure to sprout from these pepper and eggplant varieties, and started some more, this time using Seedzip method.

I was worried that some of these seeds wouldn’t sink at first after adding the chamomile tea, but after 4-6 hour soak, they had all sank to the bottom.

Hopefully I will be able to keep up with all this, but at least I can be satisfied that I made the attempt.

Image

Hab Chocolate
Numex Jalmundo
Numex Sandia
Anaheim Chili Seeds
Barker’s Hot (green chili)
AstraKem eggplant
Hon Naga Nasu (Japanese)
Chocolate Cake - swordy’17
Sweet Orange Doux cross - patihum’17

...also, if these germinate well, I think I will acknowledge that my current seed starting conditions make it too cold to start peppers in mid-late February (in other words, don’t get caught up in other gardener’s Spring Fever! LOL), and I’m actually better off waiting to start them until overall ambient temperatures are higher in mid-March and even later. The sun also sets a little closer to the west and beyond as the Spring Equinox approaches and pass, and the setting sun begins to shine in on the NW window where my Winter Paradise set up is located, which is where I keep the warm weather seedlings. This increases the warmth in the room even more — better conditions all around.

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

My lettuces and brassicas, and artichokes, are spending their first all night outside. Is it funny that I woke up and am worrying about them like they were my children at their first sleepover? It’s 38°F outside... it shouldn’t be too cold for them. Go back to sleep, me! :> :lol:


... 3:14am...

...OK did NOT go outside to check on them, but took some pictures of newest tomato babies :roll:
— in the back of top photo — Ladyfingers F4, Buttermints F4, Napa Rosé, Pinocchio Orange (micro)
— bottom photo — dwarfs ... Lemon Ice, King Aramis, Dwarf Blazing Beauty, ...etc.
Image

SQWIB
Greener Thumb
Posts: 970
Joined: Tue Feb 16, 2016 9:21 am
Location: Zone 7A - Philadelphia, PA

Interesting about the seedzip idea, never heard of it.
Were on the same page for hardening off, our weather seems very similar, mine went out yesterday after work around 4pm.

The only problem is the dogs think it is a salad buffet.

Image

Image

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

Haha. I have to keep the lettuce tray away from one of our CATS who LOVES lettuce. In fact, last several days when I was taking the trays in and out, I had to ask a DD to “keep an eye on the lettuce” while it was waiting it’s turn sitting on the kitchen floor. LOLOL

The .. tatsoi?.. look great! I would be tempted to take a few of the outer big leaves to use in a stir fry or (noodle) soup! :>

...and in comparison, my artichokes appear to be stalled because I’ve kept them too cold. I’m concerned that at this rate, they will think/KNOW they are still in the first year and not be fooled into thinking they went through a period of chill AFTER the first year.... Hmmm :|

...I took this photo yesterday... artichokes are in the back.
Image

User avatar
digitS'
Super Green Thumb
Posts: 3925
Joined: Sun Sep 26, 2010 1:10 pm
Location: ID/WA! border

I only leave annuals out by "accident." Of course, the perennials were out there all winter and the divisions and even the seedlings form an outdoor community. Some annuals will reseed themselves ... because I accidentally didn't collect the fruit or seed last year.

I'm nowhere near a hardening-off moment. Yesterday morning was the first in March '18 when it didn't freeze here at home. I will get more seedlings in the greenhouse potted up and on a good day, bring them out to enjoy the fresh air. If they look like they are doing okay, I might accidentally wander off and leave them a few hours.

After awhile, and if they still look comfortable through their time outdoors, I may leave them right through the day. This becomes a pattern of behavior for a week or two, altho they may be kept in during bad weather instead of having outdoor recess. In time, and if I know the forecast and have lots of busyness to attend to late, I may accidentally leave them overnight.

Often I don't because if they are really where they should be to be out 24 hours, and outdoor conditions are right, they are ready for Garden Camp! I will drive out with a whole bunch of nearly rootbound seedlings in the back of the pickup; show the entire group where they can play in the dirt finding water and nutrients; and then I accidentally drive off and leave them there. Rushing back on later and scheduled dates so that I can relieve Mother Nature of some of her responsibilities, usually I find them fine, even if a little cranky at first.

Helicopter digitS'

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

Image

User avatar
applestar
Mod
Posts: 30514
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

Seedzip method could look like this — these seeds were started on March 21 and they are almost the last ones to germinate/sprout in the same group. Many germinated day or two earlier, others germinated at the same time but then outpaced these to sprout earlier. Out of all those tomato seed varieties started on 3/21 and 3/23, I have two Seedzip bags (varieties) that have not germinated at all. Everybody else are in various stages of germination or have already germinated and/or sprouted and are sown/planted/growing.

By the time seedleaves unfold, the seedroot can be 1 inch long or longer, and some will start to grow secondary/side roots.

Image

In the right side close-ups, one is definitely an antho variety — Helsing Junction Blues, which explains the intensely purple hypocotyl. The other one, Maiden Voyage F4 as far as I know is not an antho variety, so I’m not sure what to think about that... I’m going to have to find out. :wink:



Return to “Vegetable Garden Progress + Photos & Videos”