This year I am growing my very first peppers from seed. Store bought seed and I am doing fairly well but not putting too too much into it. I am using EB Stone seed growing mix but some I used just a EB Stone potting mix. I hope to have in all various peppers 30 plants from seed. So 30 of my 300 plus plants will be from seed. The others from plants that I buy at a local nursery or store....
my kitten fell asleep on my arm so this was so hard to type lol
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ApertureF11Sniper
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pepperhead212
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ApertureF11Sniper
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Thank you kindly....And pepper types so far. Early Jalapeno, Hot Lemon, Habanero, Hungarian Hot Wax, Sweet Banana and Tangerine Dream with most being the Tangerine Dream and Sweet Banana. My mom likes the Tangerine Dream so I want to make sure she gets plenty.pepperhead212 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 02, 2023 5:23 pmWelcome to the forum! And good luck with the pepper seeds! What kinds of peppers are they?
When is too late to start seeds? I mean I want peppers by July and August. Our Junes of late have just been too wet and cold. I typically just give my peppers to people I work with or even people I randomly meet as a kind gesture. Last year I had over 200 plants but none from seed and some were transplanted way late. I hope every year to learn and improve.
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pepperhead212
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It all depends on the pepper variety, and weather. What is the date you normally put the transplants in the ground? If it's in June, I don't see how you can get them as early as you mention. Mine go in around 5-15, which is about 2 weeks after tomatoes, and the temp is 55° or higher, and those are started on 4-1, with chinense types about 10 days earlier. Only a few varieties ripen in early July, with some in late July, even some early chinense peppers. But most start in early August, and that is with a lot of heat in later July, and into August, which all those hot peppers love! Last year I had 11 heat waves here, which started in June! I always say, I can't stand heat, but my peppers love it!
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ApertureF11Sniper
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Sorry it seems I consistently make post lacking complete information. All my peppers are in pots. I might do some in the ground but for now all will be in pots. I leave them on the porch for the most part as I have found they don't mind the cold but they do NOT like to be wet and cold. Right now I was able to buy some plants that came into the local store. I bought in lil round plastic pots 2 Shishito and 4 Mammoth Jalapeno plants. They are perched in a window as are my seed plants that are growing. The house windows are going to be full of peppers.pepperhead212 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 02, 2023 9:30 pmIt all depends on the pepper variety, and weather. What is the date you normally put the transplants in the ground? If it's in June, I don't see how you can get them as early as you mention. Mine go in around 5-15, which is about 2 weeks after tomatoes, and the temp is 55° or higher, and those are started on 4-1, with chinense types about 10 days earlier. Only a few varieties ripen in early July, with some in late July, even some early chinense peppers. But most start in early August, and that is with a lot of heat in later July, and into August, which all those hot peppers love! Last year I had 11 heat waves here, which started in June! I always say, I can't stand heat, but my peppers love it!
Peppers have a long childhood so to get some early, potted ones are o.k. The selection is limited, but they usually are popular varieties. It is less expensive and you will have more choices if you grow plants from seed. Seeds off the rack are usually popular ones, but in my case may not grow well where I live. They cost less if you grow them from seed yourself. Seed catalogs come out between Oct-January and the last few years as more people took up gardening, and they have had crop failures, seeds sell out fast.
Most companies will have a wait list you can sign up for when seeds do come in and I have had to try different companies to get the seeds I want. Most of those have been good even if they aren't always cheaper especially since I have to pay minimum shipping charges. However, if you do your research there are a lot of good peppers and other plants out there. For instance, I have gotten some good peppers that are disease and heat resistant, but not necessarily both at the same time. I am still looking for that perfect tomato, there is just so much to choose from.
There are some good catalog companies that offer free shipping or free shipping to contiguous states with a minimum order (no free shipping for me unless there is a shipping deal). However, if you can get together with a group of people and make a bulk order or if you get crazy and order the minimum seeds, there are good deals to be had. Baker and MI gardener have limited number of seeds, but often they are heirloom or unusual. They both offer free shipping. Minimum order with MI gardener and their prices are reasonable. They don't offer a lot of seeds,unless you order bulk, but it is enough for a small home garden. When you save seeds from OP varieties, it will save you more.
www.rareseeds.com
https://migardener.com/collections/all-seeds
Because of where I live, I am buying the bulk of my seeds from High Mowing and Southern Exposure Seed Exchange. Kitazawa was sold to True leaf Market, but their seeds are still available. They are not cheap but the most adaptable for my climate. High Mowing and Southern Exposure Seed Exchange have more variety, good prices and Southern Exposure has more seeds suitable for a hot humid climate. Whereas, MI gardener has good prices but limited choices, and only a few of his seeds are suitable for my climate. I also like Victory Seeds which is a new one for me this year. I like Territorial for bulk seeds, but they have been out of the seeds I wanted. I have gotten some seeds from a few other places because they had them and others did not. For the most part they have been good, but because they have limited seeds that I want, the minimum shipping becomes a factor as well. I also get some seeds bred by the University seed program that are bred specifically for Hawaii like the UH tropical corn, Hirayama Kai Choy, and Poamoho beans. If you do catalog shopping you do have to read the small print and see if the cultivar is bred for your particular climate.
I use the Cornell vegetables disease resistant vegetable charts to research new varieties I want to try.
I need nematode, phythophtora, bacterial spot, TMV, Spotted wilt resistance, heat tolerance. It may not get everything in every pepper but I try to get the best disease package possible.
https://www.vegetables.cornell.edu/pest ... varieties/
Most companies will have a wait list you can sign up for when seeds do come in and I have had to try different companies to get the seeds I want. Most of those have been good even if they aren't always cheaper especially since I have to pay minimum shipping charges. However, if you do your research there are a lot of good peppers and other plants out there. For instance, I have gotten some good peppers that are disease and heat resistant, but not necessarily both at the same time. I am still looking for that perfect tomato, there is just so much to choose from.
There are some good catalog companies that offer free shipping or free shipping to contiguous states with a minimum order (no free shipping for me unless there is a shipping deal). However, if you can get together with a group of people and make a bulk order or if you get crazy and order the minimum seeds, there are good deals to be had. Baker and MI gardener have limited number of seeds, but often they are heirloom or unusual. They both offer free shipping. Minimum order with MI gardener and their prices are reasonable. They don't offer a lot of seeds,unless you order bulk, but it is enough for a small home garden. When you save seeds from OP varieties, it will save you more.
www.rareseeds.com
https://migardener.com/collections/all-seeds
Because of where I live, I am buying the bulk of my seeds from High Mowing and Southern Exposure Seed Exchange. Kitazawa was sold to True leaf Market, but their seeds are still available. They are not cheap but the most adaptable for my climate. High Mowing and Southern Exposure Seed Exchange have more variety, good prices and Southern Exposure has more seeds suitable for a hot humid climate. Whereas, MI gardener has good prices but limited choices, and only a few of his seeds are suitable for my climate. I also like Victory Seeds which is a new one for me this year. I like Territorial for bulk seeds, but they have been out of the seeds I wanted. I have gotten some seeds from a few other places because they had them and others did not. For the most part they have been good, but because they have limited seeds that I want, the minimum shipping becomes a factor as well. I also get some seeds bred by the University seed program that are bred specifically for Hawaii like the UH tropical corn, Hirayama Kai Choy, and Poamoho beans. If you do catalog shopping you do have to read the small print and see if the cultivar is bred for your particular climate.
I use the Cornell vegetables disease resistant vegetable charts to research new varieties I want to try.
I need nematode, phythophtora, bacterial spot, TMV, Spotted wilt resistance, heat tolerance. It may not get everything in every pepper but I try to get the best disease package possible.
https://www.vegetables.cornell.edu/pest ... varieties/
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ApertureF11Sniper
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Actually all you need is google. Finding a good company and navigating through their minimum order and shipping does sometimes require more work. At least you won't run into as many problems as I do with companies that do not ship to your state. You could still have some problems if your state is banning some seeds because of your department of Ag restrictions. Be careful buying from etsy or Amazon, some of the sellers are not certified.
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ApertureF11Sniper
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applestar
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When growing peppers from seeds, first hurdle for me has always been just getting them to sprout. This had led me to trying to get them started extra early in the past— like February… resulting in multiple failures.
It turned out that growing temperature was the problem.
This year, I started mine in mid-March — soaking and pre-germinating, then starting to sow most of the germinated (root) and sprouted (cotyldons) seeds 10 days later (I intended to sow them a couple of days earlier, but life.)
From past experiences, I know pepper seedlings can actually fully sprout in the pre-germination set up (heated to mostly constant 80 to 85°F enclosed near 100% humidity with moistened clean/sterile medium).
I used paper napkins and vermiculite lined mini-muffin clamshells this year, but have also successfully used
— small zip bags {for beads and parts} and
— small containers with lids {condiment cups and pill keepers}, etc.
in the past.)
Due to the hurry up timeline, I have been continuing to grow the seedlings on the heat mat at somewhat reduced thermostat setting — 75 to 78°F and have consistently floated/draped clear plastic film (cut open large bag — I think a shirt came in this) over the seedlings at night.
They get morning sun through the window and supplemental lights set to turn on at 6am and off at midnight. When I have time, I shuffle the seedlings around so some get to sit on the windowsill for extra sunbathing while the others are positioned to catch as much sunlight as possible while the sun transits the sky —these are still on the window bench (with the heat mat and have added benefit of the supplemental lights, especially if I forget and the windowsill seedlings end up left in the dim~dark).
Peppers have weaker root systems compared to tomatoes so I’ve been able to keep them in smaller cells and shared larger cells, but I have been trying to uppot and separate into single cells as needed, and I think they are on track to be planted out in a couple more weeks. It might be helping that I have been feeding them a little more aggressively at this stage than in the past.
I tend to stunt the seedlings due to keeping them in too small containers for too long to save space — this may delay their initial development to blossoming/fruiting stage, but they WILL pick up pace as the season advances.
This time, I’m going to uppot the ones that look ready for bigger interim containers starting today. These photos are from 4/20. I’ll take new pics and post an update in my garden thread later today or tomorrow—
…Oh, the lights are on already — here’s a preview.
As you can see, if the outdoor conditions allowed it, some of these could actually be directly planted in their large containers to grow out for the season. I think they might still be a little too small for planting directly in the ground (even if the ground temp has warmed enough — since pepper seedlings are very vulnerable to pests including slugs and even the tiniest sucking insects) — I would prefer to grow them to nearly branching stage with thicker stems before putting them in the ground.
Once in the ground, initial ground temperature and protection from overnight chills can make a difference in how quickly they reach blossoming/fruiting stage of their development.
I’m going to repeat my experiment from last year to use black biodegradable film mulch over slightly mounded wide bed and covering with a low tunnel of vented poly and/or nonwoven fabric at first and then insect netting to keep out the common pests and pepperfly that attacks the fruits. (Peppers don’t need insect pollinators.).
I will also follow the staking and pruning techniques used by Japanese market farmers/gardeners for maximum production of sizable fruits, including culling the first as well as 2nd and 3rd blossoms that grow at specific part of the branching stems.
Growing in well-managed SIP’s like @pepperhead does, increases the growth and development timeline considerably — judging from his annual reports. I think the large volume container, raised above the ground level, supplies more heat to the rootzone. The steady nutrients from the prepped mix, plus the automated irrigation he uses, all play a part.
I only have 4 containers, but I might try using them for some of the peppers again this year … now which ones will be the lucky victims … err … participants?
It turned out that growing temperature was the problem.
This year, I started mine in mid-March — soaking and pre-germinating, then starting to sow most of the germinated (root) and sprouted (cotyldons) seeds 10 days later (I intended to sow them a couple of days earlier, but life.)
From past experiences, I know pepper seedlings can actually fully sprout in the pre-germination set up (heated to mostly constant 80 to 85°F enclosed near 100% humidity with moistened clean/sterile medium).
I used paper napkins and vermiculite lined mini-muffin clamshells this year, but have also successfully used
— small zip bags {for beads and parts} and
— small containers with lids {condiment cups and pill keepers}, etc.
in the past.)
Due to the hurry up timeline, I have been continuing to grow the seedlings on the heat mat at somewhat reduced thermostat setting — 75 to 78°F and have consistently floated/draped clear plastic film (cut open large bag — I think a shirt came in this) over the seedlings at night.
They get morning sun through the window and supplemental lights set to turn on at 6am and off at midnight. When I have time, I shuffle the seedlings around so some get to sit on the windowsill for extra sunbathing while the others are positioned to catch as much sunlight as possible while the sun transits the sky —these are still on the window bench (with the heat mat and have added benefit of the supplemental lights, especially if I forget and the windowsill seedlings end up left in the dim~dark).
Peppers have weaker root systems compared to tomatoes so I’ve been able to keep them in smaller cells and shared larger cells, but I have been trying to uppot and separate into single cells as needed, and I think they are on track to be planted out in a couple more weeks. It might be helping that I have been feeding them a little more aggressively at this stage than in the past.
I tend to stunt the seedlings due to keeping them in too small containers for too long to save space — this may delay their initial development to blossoming/fruiting stage, but they WILL pick up pace as the season advances.
This time, I’m going to uppot the ones that look ready for bigger interim containers starting today. These photos are from 4/20. I’ll take new pics and post an update in my garden thread later today or tomorrow—
Once in the ground, initial ground temperature and protection from overnight chills can make a difference in how quickly they reach blossoming/fruiting stage of their development.
I’m going to repeat my experiment from last year to use black biodegradable film mulch over slightly mounded wide bed and covering with a low tunnel of vented poly and/or nonwoven fabric at first and then insect netting to keep out the common pests and pepperfly that attacks the fruits. (Peppers don’t need insect pollinators.).
I will also follow the staking and pruning techniques used by Japanese market farmers/gardeners for maximum production of sizable fruits, including culling the first as well as 2nd and 3rd blossoms that grow at specific part of the branching stems.
Growing in well-managed SIP’s like @pepperhead does, increases the growth and development timeline considerably — judging from his annual reports. I think the large volume container, raised above the ground level, supplies more heat to the rootzone. The steady nutrients from the prepped mix, plus the automated irrigation he uses, all play a part.
I only have 4 containers, but I might try using them for some of the peppers again this year … now which ones will be the lucky victims … err … participants?
Yes, peppers are indeed a warm weather crop. Hot peppers minimum night temperature for best germination is 68 degrees. Bell peppers can germinate at 64 degrees. In a cold climate, warm season vegetables would have to be started on a heat mat. Super hot peppers do better in even warmer temperatures like 80 degrees to germinate Bhut Jolokia. Some peppers like tepins and Fatali don't germinate well unless you soak the seeds in potassium nitrate first.
The seeds can be pre sprouted in a paper towel or spoon like Applestar does then transplanted, but I lose too many that way. It takes patience to not break the early sprout.
I usually plant seeds in 3.5 inch pots 8-10 seeds per pot. I don't expect them all to sprout. Some varieties sprout better than others. Community pots take up less space than plug trays and I don't have to deal with the empty cells. In pots make sure you use a light potting mix and not garden mix or soil in any container. Garden soil is too heavy for the pots and should be used to mix with the soil in the ground. You can also fit more small community pots on a heat mat.
I did have a heat mat years ago, but I found that it was better to just wait for my temperatures to warm up to the minimum 68 degrees at night. My days will be 77-81. The plants start better on the open bench and I don't have to harden them off. I also don't have to worry that I have planted them too soon. They will grow very slowly if it is cold.
Peppers are in the same family as tomatoes and eggplant. (solanaceae), and all like warm growing conditions and are not frost tolerant. Of the three, peppers are even fussier than tomatoes. Tomato seeds can be planted at 50 degrees, but eggplant and peppers like night temperatures of 68-80 degrees and day temps in the 80's. Except for the eggplant which tolerates higher temps. Peppers and tomatoes ideally like temperatures 70-85. Above or below those temperature ranges growth and flowering stop unless they are heat tolerant varieties. Bullhorn type sweet peppers are easier and more prolific than bell peppers.
I have a long growing season and some peppers are perennial like super chili and Hawaiian chili. Some others will live a year or two so it does not matter when I start them. I don't have a frost to worry about so they live outside all year. In colder climates, the peppers would have to be overwintered inside. I can start peppers in the fall, but they will grow slowly through winter and fruit when it is warm enough for them to flower. If I grow them early in the year, they will grow faster and I will get peppers in 70-90 days continuously from then on until it gets cold again and they slow down. Annual peppers like bell peppers will not live more than a year. Frutescens, Baccatum, and Chinense pepper types are longer lived than Annuum peppers like bell peppers. Starting the peppers and getting past the diseases are the hardest part, after you figure that out, they are not that hard to grow and maintain. The smaller peppers can grow in a 1-4 gallon pot, the larger peppers need at least a 7-15 gallon pot. The smallest pepper I grow is the thai hot which is less than a foot tall, and the largest are the super chili which can live 8-10 years and get 4-8 ft tall over time in an 18 gallon pot. Pepper plant that are older than 1 year benefit from renewal pruning and repotting. They are heavy feeders.
I have better luck growing hot peppers and bull horns, but bell peppers elude me.
https://pepperseeds.ca/index.php?route= ... ation_id=7
https://pepperseeds.ca/index.php?route= ... ath=114_89
How hot can a pepper get. Cayenne Diannes Hot Pepper list with SHU.
https://www.cayennediane.com/big-list-of-hot-peppers/
https://harvesttotable.com/7-tips-for-g ... in-pots-2/
https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_h/H240/index.html
The seeds can be pre sprouted in a paper towel or spoon like Applestar does then transplanted, but I lose too many that way. It takes patience to not break the early sprout.
I usually plant seeds in 3.5 inch pots 8-10 seeds per pot. I don't expect them all to sprout. Some varieties sprout better than others. Community pots take up less space than plug trays and I don't have to deal with the empty cells. In pots make sure you use a light potting mix and not garden mix or soil in any container. Garden soil is too heavy for the pots and should be used to mix with the soil in the ground. You can also fit more small community pots on a heat mat.
I did have a heat mat years ago, but I found that it was better to just wait for my temperatures to warm up to the minimum 68 degrees at night. My days will be 77-81. The plants start better on the open bench and I don't have to harden them off. I also don't have to worry that I have planted them too soon. They will grow very slowly if it is cold.
Peppers are in the same family as tomatoes and eggplant. (solanaceae), and all like warm growing conditions and are not frost tolerant. Of the three, peppers are even fussier than tomatoes. Tomato seeds can be planted at 50 degrees, but eggplant and peppers like night temperatures of 68-80 degrees and day temps in the 80's. Except for the eggplant which tolerates higher temps. Peppers and tomatoes ideally like temperatures 70-85. Above or below those temperature ranges growth and flowering stop unless they are heat tolerant varieties. Bullhorn type sweet peppers are easier and more prolific than bell peppers.
I have a long growing season and some peppers are perennial like super chili and Hawaiian chili. Some others will live a year or two so it does not matter when I start them. I don't have a frost to worry about so they live outside all year. In colder climates, the peppers would have to be overwintered inside. I can start peppers in the fall, but they will grow slowly through winter and fruit when it is warm enough for them to flower. If I grow them early in the year, they will grow faster and I will get peppers in 70-90 days continuously from then on until it gets cold again and they slow down. Annual peppers like bell peppers will not live more than a year. Frutescens, Baccatum, and Chinense pepper types are longer lived than Annuum peppers like bell peppers. Starting the peppers and getting past the diseases are the hardest part, after you figure that out, they are not that hard to grow and maintain. The smaller peppers can grow in a 1-4 gallon pot, the larger peppers need at least a 7-15 gallon pot. The smallest pepper I grow is the thai hot which is less than a foot tall, and the largest are the super chili which can live 8-10 years and get 4-8 ft tall over time in an 18 gallon pot. Pepper plant that are older than 1 year benefit from renewal pruning and repotting. They are heavy feeders.
I have better luck growing hot peppers and bull horns, but bell peppers elude me.
https://pepperseeds.ca/index.php?route= ... ation_id=7
https://pepperseeds.ca/index.php?route= ... ath=114_89
How hot can a pepper get. Cayenne Diannes Hot Pepper list with SHU.
https://www.cayennediane.com/big-list-of-hot-peppers/
https://harvesttotable.com/7-tips-for-g ... in-pots-2/
https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_h/H240/index.html
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ApertureF11Sniper
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This is all good information....I just wanted to know if it was too late to plant seeds or if I planted as late as May 15th....June,July and August so peppers about the last week of August first week of September....For starting the seed I did order a couple growing matts off Amazon. I was looking at Whatcom Seed Company, pretty fair prices....I am all geared up for transplanting. More pots and bigger ones then last year.....
At what size should I move my seedlings into 4inch pots?
At what size should I move my seedlings into 4inch pots?
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pepperhead212
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- Location: Woodbury NJ Zone 7a/7b
This would be too late for me to start peppers, as slow as they are. I start most peppers on 4-1, then transfer them to 32/tray pots - not very large, but I'm not trying to get them super-large, before putting them out. I wouldn't have enough room under lights, if they were in larger pots. The chinense peppers I start about a week earlier, as they are a little slower, but they might have caught up, due to putting them in those Jiffy Pellets, which also made the eggplants grow much faster. 5-15 is about when mine get put outside.
You can start peppers on heat mats and under lights, 6-8 weeks before your last frost date. Pot them up when they have true leaves for me that is when they are 1-3 inches tall. into 4 inch pots. Peppers take a long time to germinate. In warmer soils some peppers will germinate in 10 days sometimes it can take a couple of weeks or up to a month. The fresher seeds germinate faster. Soaking the seeds overnight in potassium nitrate also helps to soften the seed coat. You can use the leftover potassium nitrate to fertilize your plants.
For the first couple of months they will grow very slowly. When they are about 5-6 inches tall they can move up to gallons. Peppers don't size up and start to flower until about 3 months from germination. Pinching the tip of peppers is optional. I only do it if the pepper is lanky, otherwise it will branch eventually. After the first fruit come out, I will move the larger peppers into their final pot, a five gallon bucket or a an 18 gallon pot.
Getting them to sprout is usually the first hurdle, then for me it is getting them past the rain and pests. Once they get large enough, especially if I choose disease resistant varieties, they are a lot easier to care for.
Sweet peppers take 60-90 days from germination to harvest. Hot peppers can take up to 150 days.
I think if you are starting pepper seeds now and you have maybe 120 days of growing time, the peppers would just be starting to produce just about the time you need to start thinking about what to do with the perennial peppers over winter.
A hoop house like Applestar has or overwintering indoors would be your options.
I planted a 7 pot hot in September (It is still a really hot month for me. The day and night temps are in the 80's ). It grew very slowly and started fruiting in January. So about 4 months from the time I planted it. I have a mild winter but peppers still grow slower in temperatures 51-78 degrees.
I would think the ideal time to start seeds indoors would be around March or Early April, especially for hot peppers (6-8 weeks before your last frost date)
This is a publication on peppers from Washington State extension service.
https://mtvernon.wsu.edu/path_team/Grow ... FS220E.pdf
For the first couple of months they will grow very slowly. When they are about 5-6 inches tall they can move up to gallons. Peppers don't size up and start to flower until about 3 months from germination. Pinching the tip of peppers is optional. I only do it if the pepper is lanky, otherwise it will branch eventually. After the first fruit come out, I will move the larger peppers into their final pot, a five gallon bucket or a an 18 gallon pot.
Getting them to sprout is usually the first hurdle, then for me it is getting them past the rain and pests. Once they get large enough, especially if I choose disease resistant varieties, they are a lot easier to care for.
Sweet peppers take 60-90 days from germination to harvest. Hot peppers can take up to 150 days.
I think if you are starting pepper seeds now and you have maybe 120 days of growing time, the peppers would just be starting to produce just about the time you need to start thinking about what to do with the perennial peppers over winter.
A hoop house like Applestar has or overwintering indoors would be your options.
I planted a 7 pot hot in September (It is still a really hot month for me. The day and night temps are in the 80's ). It grew very slowly and started fruiting in January. So about 4 months from the time I planted it. I have a mild winter but peppers still grow slower in temperatures 51-78 degrees.
I would think the ideal time to start seeds indoors would be around March or Early April, especially for hot peppers (6-8 weeks before your last frost date)
This is a publication on peppers from Washington State extension service.
https://mtvernon.wsu.edu/path_team/Grow ... FS220E.pdf