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- Green Thumb
- Posts: 379
- Joined: Fri Feb 08, 2013 2:07 pm
- Location: 25 miles west of CC Philadelphia
Too late to start herbs by this weekend?
I decided to cut back on the veggies this year and grow more herbs.... thing is, I haven't ordered any seeds yet.... Philly area, zone 6...... I guess that would get them in the ground about June 1st..... Thinking basil, cilantro, chervil, chives.... not sure what else.
- applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30540
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
You are not too late for any of those. Basil should be started indoors now -- I haven't started mine yet and am feeling a tad late (could have started earlier) but they germinate quickly even at room temperature. Cilantro, Chervil, and Chives could be sown outside now. I think cilantro is a bit sensitive about being transplanted but the other two could also be started inside.
My in-ground chervil is already starting to come back outside. They are very early and one of the first herbs to start growing in spring.
My in-ground chervil is already starting to come back outside. They are very early and one of the first herbs to start growing in spring.
These are for this season?! Basil should be started inside, and not put out until above 45. The plant can go to 40, but the little ones suffer in the lower range, and sometimes never get up to speed. Chives take forever. Planted now may get a few leaves by July. Cliantro -cool weather. Check the seed racks at your local stores for a few seeds, and you may want to buy some starts.
- Ozark Lady
- Greener Thumb
- Posts: 1862
- Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:28 pm
- Location: NW Arkansas, USA zone 7A elevation 1561 feet
I don't know about your zone. But here, I just direct sow all herbs and don't start any of them inside. I find that transplant shock, slows them, and direct sow just results in better plants.
Also, I find that I need to succession sow some of them most of the summer long, especially cilantro and dill.
Also, I find that I need to succession sow some of them most of the summer long, especially cilantro and dill.
- skiingjeff
- Green Thumb
- Posts: 383
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 4:22 pm
- Location: Western Massachusetts Zone 6a
Some herbs like basil, chives, cilantro, parsley, green onions, borage, nasturtiums, and fennel I start from seed. Others garlic chives, chives, I sometimes divide instead. Even when divided they take a while to fill in again.
I do grow bay leaves, rosemary, pineapple sage, sage, thyme, stevia, marjoram, and lavender mostly from cuttings as they take forever from seed.
Some things I leave to serendipity, perilla, borage, nasturtiums, edible hibiscus, some of the basils, sesame, and stevia will all reseed and I just collect and move the seedlings where I want them.
Some things like mint need to be contained as they become weeds when they get out and will choke themselves in a pot unless they are divided regularly.
Mint, gotu kola, plantain and sesame are weeds that keep popping up in the wrong places.
Ginger, turmeric and arrowroot are dug up every year and replanted. They tend to spread so they need to be controlled. The horseradish is already past that, I just take out what is in the way, the roots are so deep, it is hard to dig them out even on purpose.
I am good at killing sage and thyme so I need to buy new starts frequently.
My Indian curry tree is flowering now and I can collect the berries when they are ripe to save the seed. They will also grow from cuttings.
Chili peppers, well I gotta get to them before the birds do to save the seeds. They grow best when temperatures are 70-80 degrees. The hotter peppers like it to be really warm before they germinate, or you need to use a heat mat. They will grow from cuttings as well.
I grow both annual, biennial, and perennial herbs. Basil will last 10 months but people have said they have gotten them to live a couple of years. I do have an African basil which is perennial and I pretty much just have to prune it since it is big. Cilantro is o.k. in cool weather but bolts quickly in the warm months, so I have ngo gai or culantro which has a taste similar to cilantro and it is perennial for moist shade.
I do grow bay leaves, rosemary, pineapple sage, sage, thyme, stevia, marjoram, and lavender mostly from cuttings as they take forever from seed.
Some things I leave to serendipity, perilla, borage, nasturtiums, edible hibiscus, some of the basils, sesame, and stevia will all reseed and I just collect and move the seedlings where I want them.
Some things like mint need to be contained as they become weeds when they get out and will choke themselves in a pot unless they are divided regularly.
Mint, gotu kola, plantain and sesame are weeds that keep popping up in the wrong places.
Ginger, turmeric and arrowroot are dug up every year and replanted. They tend to spread so they need to be controlled. The horseradish is already past that, I just take out what is in the way, the roots are so deep, it is hard to dig them out even on purpose.
I am good at killing sage and thyme so I need to buy new starts frequently.
My Indian curry tree is flowering now and I can collect the berries when they are ripe to save the seed. They will also grow from cuttings.
Chili peppers, well I gotta get to them before the birds do to save the seeds. They grow best when temperatures are 70-80 degrees. The hotter peppers like it to be really warm before they germinate, or you need to use a heat mat. They will grow from cuttings as well.
I grow both annual, biennial, and perennial herbs. Basil will last 10 months but people have said they have gotten them to live a couple of years. I do have an African basil which is perennial and I pretty much just have to prune it since it is big. Cilantro is o.k. in cool weather but bolts quickly in the warm months, so I have ngo gai or culantro which has a taste similar to cilantro and it is perennial for moist shade.
- sweetiepie
- Green Thumb
- Posts: 397
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2015 12:18 pm
- Location: York, ND (Zone 3b)
I would love to try curry.
I had no idea that sage was so hard to start. Herbs are sort of new to me, like I have only been dabbling the last 2 or so years. I have just direct sowed and it's done great. Cilantro grows well here too.
Dill is also one of those that can be found the next year everywhere. By the time you get done hand picking it out, you smell like a pickle.
I love learning about everyone's different growing zones. It gives a person lots to think about. I tend to not think outside the box.
I had no idea that sage was so hard to start. Herbs are sort of new to me, like I have only been dabbling the last 2 or so years. I have just direct sowed and it's done great. Cilantro grows well here too.
Dill is also one of those that can be found the next year everywhere. By the time you get done hand picking it out, you smell like a pickle.
I love learning about everyone's different growing zones. It gives a person lots to think about. I tend to not think outside the box.
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- Green Thumb
- Posts: 379
- Joined: Fri Feb 08, 2013 2:07 pm
- Location: 25 miles west of CC Philadelphia
- sweetiepie
- Green Thumb
- Posts: 397
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2015 12:18 pm
- Location: York, ND (Zone 3b)
Most of the times the trades are around. It is what makes 80 plus degree weather beareable. I do water everyday and that is part of my problem. I have been using a dry mix over the years with pots that breathe and dry quickly. I am trying to use less water because the water bill (sewer charges) are astronomical. The problem is if I use my fast draining mix and breathable pots, most of them cannot go more than a couple of days without water. If I use plastic pots with fewer holes and a heavier mix, I have a lot of plants that will rot. I am still experimenting with the plastic pots and media and especially the plants that are sensitive to being too wet, it is still a problem.
It is actually harder for me not to water everyday since, sometimes I will wait too long and the plants will show signs of wilting and that makes them weaker and more subject to attack from pests and disease.
The reason for having a fast drying mix to start with is that while the heavier mixes get plants through the summer, when the rain comes they will drown.
It is actually harder for me not to water everyday since, sometimes I will wait too long and the plants will show signs of wilting and that makes them weaker and more subject to attack from pests and disease.
The reason for having a fast drying mix to start with is that while the heavier mixes get plants through the summer, when the rain comes they will drown.
- sweetiepie
- Green Thumb
- Posts: 397
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2015 12:18 pm
- Location: York, ND (Zone 3b)
- Ozark Lady
- Greener Thumb
- Posts: 1862
- Joined: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:28 pm
- Location: NW Arkansas, USA zone 7A elevation 1561 feet