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digitS'
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Re: potting/ seed starting soil

Biological Mosquito Control also kills Fungus Gnats, so says this article in Mother Earth News.

I have not tried the Bt recommended. I'm just happy enough with limiting watering of potted plants that have been outdoors all summer ... and ... using yellow sticky traps.

Trying to kill the critters years ago with an organic contact spray was a complete fail.

Steve

imafan26
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Location: Hawaii, zone 12a 587 ft elev.

Since the snails are having a party with my seedlings I am trying something different. I usually start my cuttings under the bench, but between and the weeds and the snails they aren't very happy. I put them on the lanai table to try to keep them out of reach of the snails but they are a bother to have to carry them out every day to water.

I am trying to root green roses and Mr. Lincoln cuttings in one pot and lavender in two other containers. I have been successful with the green rose in the past, but failed miserably with every hybrid tea so far. I usually don't have a problem with lavender, but this year they are not cooperating. I have a 25% success rate. I am starting the cuttings in potting mix (peat lite) instead of perlite which is my usual thing for starting cuttings. I am also using the baggie method to create a mini greenhouse/terrarium so I don't have to water as much. So far the roses look good although I have had to turn the baggie a couple of times because of excess condensation. The lavender is less happy, and most of them look like they are dying. I am also keeping my seedlings on the bench under cover longer to try to keep the snails from eating them. Today I did catch two snails mowing the cuttings that were coming through the top of the tray and they ate another tatsoi on the bench, only the harder parts of the stems are left.

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rainbowgardener
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Hi LeeLee and welcome to the Forum. Re the fungus gnats:

The cinnamon does not work instantly. It does not actually kill the fungus gnats or their larvae. It is a natural anti-fungal, that kills the fungus in the soil that the gnats feed on. You will have to be consistent with it - a little bit in the water every time you water- for awhile. If you already have a bad infestation, it will take longer.

Water really is the key. It would help to know what your plants are, where you are, whether these pots are indoors or outdoors. But my indoor plants, especially the trees and large plants, I do not water any more often than twice a month. In between, I mist the leaves daily, to keep it humid and keep them from losing water through the leaves. With this routine, I NEVER have trouble with fungus gnats in my potted plants.

It also makes a difference what the potting mix is like. If it is heavy, like has some actual soil in it, or has a lot of peat moss in the mix, it will hold water too much. Your plants and especially trees will do better AND you will have less (or no) trouble with fungus gnats if you use a more free draining mix. You can do this by mixing in more perlite or coarse sand or using part cactus mix.

imafan26
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I agree, I don't have indoor plants but I have a lot of plants that are crammed together outside so I do get bugs flying around. Less watering and better air circulation helps. If the plants are indoors, if they can be taken outside on warm days or use a fan to help to dry them. Also make sure the saucers are empty so you don't have standing water under the pots.

catgrass
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Water with soapy water. Might not kill them all, but it will cut down on them. Or make a soapy solution and spray the soil with it.

abhaykale
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Iamafan26: You said you have figured out how to grow cilantro. Could you please share the method? I still have a hit and miss. Being from India, we use lot of cilantro. So, would love to know how to grow it.

pepperhead212
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Hi abhaykale, I also have tried to grow cilantro, to no avail - it always bolts before there are many leaves. And it doesn't grow much better in the spring, when it's cooler, though it seems the heat makes it bolt even faster. I'm thinking it has something to do with the length of days. Considering that the areas that seem to grow more cilantro are closer to the equator, most would be hotter than NJ, so it can't be a heat problem! What region of India are you in?

I have tried many varieties of cilantro - most labeled "slo bolt", to no avail. The best results have been indoors, in hydroponics, but that's not something I do all year.

Good luck solving the puzzle for your area!

imafan26
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Location: Hawaii, zone 12a 587 ft elev.

Cilantro needs cool weather but not really cold. It actually will germinate better in warmer temperatures but needs to mature when the temperature is less than 75 or it will bolt. I only grow cilantro Oct- March with the Last harvest in May. It will germinate but bolt quickly in higher temperatures. I have short days so my winter days are 10 hrs 50 minutes on the winter solstice and peaking at 13 hrs 26 minutes on the summer equinox. I don't have much variance in light so temperature is the main factor. As the days get longer and warmer, I grow the cilantro where it gets morning sun and afternoon shade to slow bolting. I am using slow bolt seed, but it does not really make that much difference. Shading will decrease the temperature a couple of degrees.

Fresh seeds works best. Split seeds germinate faster. Whole seeds will benefit from soaking them overnight in water to get the shells to crack open. I mix up my potting media. Wet it thoroughly but it should not be soggy, just friable. Put the seeds on top. I overseed because germination is not that great. Try to get the seeds about an inch apart. Cover with more media. I just cover the seeds but you can cover 1/4-1/2 inch. Press the media with your hand or a board to set the seed. Put a paper towel on top, and water through the paper towel until the media is moist and drips. You can use a spray bottle with water for a small container. You want to went the paper towel and remove air spaces in the media without disturbing the seeds. Keep the media and paper towel moist and damp, but not soggy. Check for germination under the paper towel, gently lift the towel off. Bottom water or water with a spray bottle until the true leaves come out and the roots are established.

It is important that cilantro mature in temperatures less than 75 degrees. If it is hotter it will bolt. You can grow cilantro in partial shade with morning sun to keep it from bolting sooner if you are growing it in a warm climate. I can grow cilantro in full sun in the months Nov-Mar when the sun is weak and my day temperature is less than 75 degrees. My lowest temperature is around 50 degrees. But cilantro will germinate faster in temperatures above 68 degrees and slower at lower temperatures. It is not a summer crop for me.

River
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Joined: Wed Aug 20, 2014 10:18 pm
Location: Mobile

I have used the jiffy seed starting for years. I found bags for $1.45 at rural king and picked up a couple. Great price

I have been picking up fine pine bark mixed with fertilizer and perlite for my potting mix in bulk which has worked well. I get a yard for $40 which is a good bit. My point is I can purchase the fine pine bark without the additives and it would work well as long as I kept it moist.

imafan26
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Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:32 am
Location: Hawaii, zone 12a 587 ft elev.

I actually don't have a lot of luck with the seed starting kits. The cells are too small and it have problems with uneven watering. I also keep the plants in the pots too long. Single cells take up a lot of space on my bench, so things that can be transplanted, I put in community pots which are usually 4 inch pots but sometimes I use trays. Cilantro and carrots don't transplant all that easily so I usually direct seed them. As I said, I find the split cilantro seeds germinate faster than the whole seeds. They keep pretty well as well. I have a short season for cilantro but they are not the best at germination and survival so I overseed. I used to soak the seeds for 24 hours to help with germination, but I don't have a problem with germination now, so I don't bother. I prepare the ground and add the starter fertilizer. Usually I don't add nitrogen until after the true leaves appear. I wait about a couple of weeks for the fertilizer to settle in. If you are doing organic you have to fertilize 6weeks to 6 months before to get the most out of your fertilizer unless you have a very fertile garden.

I make sure the seed bed is moist before I plant. I scratch the surface with a rake to rough it up broadcast the seed. If you like rows you can plant the seeds about 3 inches apart. I mainly broadcast all of my seeds and don't plant in rows. I cover with a thin layer of potting mix or compost and water it in. I usually have to either stand back or turn down the force on my hose end sprayer to get a gentle spray. I don't want to move the seeds a lot. Parsley seeds can take up to 28 days to germinate, but the cilantro I last planted came up in 8 days. I like to plant seeds just before a long slow rain is expected. I think the seeds prefer rain water and a long slow soak.

You are lucky to be able to get good bulk soil. I don't have a lot of options. I have to get what is available at the box stores. There is a green waste facility, but their product has a pH of over 8 and it is very coarse. It also has nut sedge seeds in it. I have plenty of that already.



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