I need what is probably some common sense knowledge from you guys.
I plan to do about 75 to 100 starts this year. 50 to 75 tomato plants and the rest peppers.
My main question is, if I have sufficient space and light surface area, should I just start my seedlings in a 2x2 or 3x3 pod, and leave them there until transplanting? I guess in the same sentence I am asking: What are the benefits to starting in smaller pods? My local greenhouse gave me a few trays of the tiny pods...say 3/4" diameter circle by 2" deep. What would be the benefit of starting in these if I have the room and wouldn't need to up-pot with the bigger pods?
Thanks in advance for any info.
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DoubleDogFarm
- Super Green Thumb
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can be a tough question - mostly dependent on individual circumstances / situations.
I'm in central PA - when it's time to start that kind of stuff, it's cold. so I use the small cells / egg cartons / etc & whatnot for one simple reason:
takes up less space per plant I.e. seed - as I germinate them in a temp. controlled box - that's a very big practical consideration. it would take a lot more "controlled environment" space / area to germinate them in say 4 inch pots than one inch cells. another benefit is,,, not every seed germinates - so I can start more than I want, pick out the strongest for transplant, toss the rest.
once they germinate, after the first true leaves are out, I move them to bigger pots.
I'm in central PA - when it's time to start that kind of stuff, it's cold. so I use the small cells / egg cartons / etc & whatnot for one simple reason:
takes up less space per plant I.e. seed - as I germinate them in a temp. controlled box - that's a very big practical consideration. it would take a lot more "controlled environment" space / area to germinate them in say 4 inch pots than one inch cells. another benefit is,,, not every seed germinates - so I can start more than I want, pick out the strongest for transplant, toss the rest.
once they germinate, after the first true leaves are out, I move them to bigger pots.
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applestar
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Definitely take advantage of tomato's ability to grow roots along stems by planting deeper at each Uppot -- usually three containers from seed starter to planting size. (Cole crops and head lettuce needs planting deeper to keep from falling over on their weeker/thinner seed stems.)
Growing under lights, you need to constantly adjust the distance between the top of the foliage and the light tubes, and it's easier to group individual containers of same height seedlings
I only start small number of any one variety and small number of any one crop. So this may not apply if you are starting all same variety of same crop from same seed lot. But in my experience, even 6-8 seeds of same variety never sprout all at the same time, and they never grow to the same height/size at the same time.
I don't like those multi-cell trays because I find it impossible to remove individual seedlings for uppotting -- I have to basically flip the entire tray.
I prefer community seed "trays" for starting seeds -- usually 4" square containers or more likely recycled cottage cheese, etc. pint size containers. They are uppotted after most of them grow true leaves, and two or three same height undersized ones are left in the starter container until they grow bigger.
They are planted in richer slow release organic soil mix than seed starting mix at each uppot, mostly eliminating need for tedious fertilizing regimen and jumping in growth and size each time.
Growing under lights, you need to constantly adjust the distance between the top of the foliage and the light tubes, and it's easier to group individual containers of same height seedlings
I only start small number of any one variety and small number of any one crop. So this may not apply if you are starting all same variety of same crop from same seed lot. But in my experience, even 6-8 seeds of same variety never sprout all at the same time, and they never grow to the same height/size at the same time.
I don't like those multi-cell trays because I find it impossible to remove individual seedlings for uppotting -- I have to basically flip the entire tray.
I prefer community seed "trays" for starting seeds -- usually 4" square containers or more likely recycled cottage cheese, etc. pint size containers. They are uppotted after most of them grow true leaves, and two or three same height undersized ones are left in the starter container until they grow bigger.
They are planted in richer slow release organic soil mix than seed starting mix at each uppot, mostly eliminating need for tedious fertilizing regimen and jumping in growth and size each time.
>>I don't like those multi-cell trays because I find it impossible to remove individual seedlings for uppotting -- I have to basically flip the entire tray.
my trick is multi-fold
(a) the moisture content has to be "right" - too wet, stuff drips off; too dry it crumbles.
(b) I use the handle of a teaspoon to "excavate" the small cells. yeah it sounds / can be tedious.
the degree to which the small cell "soil" sticks together and can be handled depends on how developed is the root system plus moisture content.
a small 1 inch cell occupied by a root bound seedling can be removed without damage using dynamite - things "less" than root bound benefit from TLC and attention to detail.
with the right moisture the whole cell contents come out on the spoon and are easily moved to bigger pots prepped with a dribble hole.
my trick is multi-fold
(a) the moisture content has to be "right" - too wet, stuff drips off; too dry it crumbles.
(b) I use the handle of a teaspoon to "excavate" the small cells. yeah it sounds / can be tedious.
the degree to which the small cell "soil" sticks together and can be handled depends on how developed is the root system plus moisture content.
a small 1 inch cell occupied by a root bound seedling can be removed without damage using dynamite - things "less" than root bound benefit from TLC and attention to detail.
with the right moisture the whole cell contents come out on the spoon and are easily moved to bigger pots prepped with a dribble hole.