+100 , get that dome off as soon as the seed comes up !!cynthia_h wrote: This public service announcement brought to you by a mod who has seen way too many seedlings needlessly killed by the use of "moisture domes," and way too many new gardeners discouraged by same.
Sunset Zone 17, USDA Zone 9
Its nice to have the 72 because then you can cut out a few from a corner and it makes watering them easier. Just pour some water down into the bottom tray and let it wick up.Bobberman wrote:Since I buy like 20 for the same price as 5 from lowes its better for me. I simply put a sheet of plostic on the top till the seeds emerge. I put 4 flats together with one sheet of clear plastic to keep in moistue! For broccoli , cabbage brussele sprouts or peppers the smaller cubes are great but for tomatoes or zucks or any vine crop I prefer the 48 cells!
Damping off is carried in the air, to my knowledge. I've had seedlings go down to it while planted in native soil, raised-bed mix (Mel's mix and also my "improved Mel's mix"), and potting soil/compost mixtures in seed-starting, 2- to 3-inch pots. None of them were under moisture domes, but I live in a climate which can have fog most months of the year.GardenRN wrote:lol....that was definitely heartfelt cynthia! And while I do see the inherent dangers of damping off, I have been quite lucky. I have had quite a good run with the cell packs and domes. I have been very good though, about removing the dome when about 1/3 of the seeds have sprouted and letting it to a good bit of drying out. I'll use mine again, cautiously.
Would using a sterile seed starting mix and purified water prevent, or at least slow down damping off? Or is it strictly from the amount of moisture.
1) Please don't shout at me with exclamation points.Bobberman wrote:So you are saying you are in a fog all of the time! Just kidding!.Damping off seems to occur more ofen when the plants are weak or are not getting enough light. Weak plants can't fight off fungas as much! So I think what you say is right the damping off disease is in the air and effects weak or over watered plants more often! Peat moss gets dry on the surface and that may be what protects the plant stems!
Should be OK, YMMV but I started arugala and some others I can't remember years ago. I made the mistake then and kept them in there and when it got hot out, they fried. So may want to move them out soon after seeds emerg, or change the amount of direct sunlight it gets. You can ventilate to a degree since it has a zippered opening. Obviously the top shelf would get hotter than the bottom.PunkRotten wrote:Can I use this exclusively for starting seeds?
oops, forgot about this...PunkRotten wrote:
This is once the plants are up. I was thinking that since they are outdoors they would get hardened off on their own.
Thanks RBG. Its been awhile since I set out seeldings for hardening off. My garden is on the north side, and I forgot to take notes last early spring on the sun cast. I think I can deal with that, but can get windy. Normally we can get some gloomy springs , so hopefully it should be doable.rainbowgardener wrote:Tonio - Re Working hours prohibits getting progressive sunlight - how do you folks do it away at work?
I do it mostly with where I put the plants. I have a long planter bench on my deck. I start by putting the plants out UNDER the bench before I leave for work. They get no direct sun there, but some indirect light and are protected from wind. They come in when I get home from work. Once they are used to that then they come out from under the bench, but sit in the back corner of the deck next to the house, where they get only a little bit of direct sun and are still protected. Then they can go to the front of the deck or on top of the planter bench, where they will get some hours of morning sun and less protection. Once it's warm enough and they are hardened enough that they are not coming in at night and they are adapted to the morning sun/less protection, then they get moved to a similar location to where they will be, but still in pots, so if need be, they can be brought back to protection. If they are doing fine that way, then they get planted. This process takes at least a week, often more depending on how much the weather cooperates.