Ech
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Re: Recycled containers for seed starting and uppotting

Well I use to use all of those expensive seed starter trays, peat pots, etc. Now though, I just use some compost and egg cartons to start seeds.

Image

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ReptileAddiction
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gixxerific wrote:I'm using whatever as well as you know.

I saw something the other day, which I have seen before but it is a great idea. They are big rugged cloth bags. Forget the explanation let me hunt down the site. :wink:

https://www.growerssupply.com/farm/suppl ... 09731.html
I have this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S0 ... UTF8&psc=1

I used it last season and am using it again this season. My one major complaint is that whenever the surface would be dry (which because the water goes out the sides happens more than usual-another complaint) the water would just flow to the side of the pot and go out the sides of the bag. It took me a while to realize why everything was constantly wilted.

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digitS'
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I am a little surprised that I haven't shared my idea for seed starting containers on this thread. Seedlings are started communally and then go into individual cells, in trays (48 to 72/tray). The containers have been about 20 years in the testing testing :wink: .

First of all, here is a "lab box" that you can buy for germination and that is used by labs around the world for that purpose:

Image

Now, here is what I use (they come in all sizes):

Image

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. (crumbs)

digitS'

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ReptileAddiction
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I don't understand. Do you start them in soil in there or in paper towels or what?

Ech
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I use em with dirt as so. And then I just thin the plants out.

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ReptileAddiction
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Oh ok. I use those for that too.

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digitS'
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That was a "pre" picture, ReptileAddiction. I still hadn't fully prepped that box :wink: but wanted to show you how similar they are to what the labs use for germination. Yes, they probably do not use soil.

I find the lids are of help until there are sprouts, then the seedlings in their soil mix go to a south window for a few days. Then, they go out to my greenhouse.

Just today, the last of the tomatoes were moved out of their cookie boxes and into 4-packs, 48 plants to a tray.

Steve

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ReptileAddiction
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Ya I got that :wink:

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Sweetcheeks
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A few things about myself:
1. I work in a bar. :roll:
2. I am what they call "crafty," and I inherited it from my mother... She's got all the hookups. :cool:
3. I love gardening! :-()

Now, when you put all of these things together, my kitchen tends to look a little like this:
bottles to cut.jpg
Which winds up doing this:
bottle cut.jpg
Which gives me an idea! :idea:

I've cut as close to the bottom as possible on some of the bottles, and made some hangers out of old t-shirts to hang them upside down and use as hanging planters!
My collection of bottles has grown a bit, so I've got way more wine and liquor bottles and stopped toting home the beer bottles (much to my boyfriend's relief!) O:)

I've got some Alexandria Alpine Strawberry seedlings going right now, and thought about putting one in each beer bottle and putting some various herbs in the larger wine bottles. I thought about how I'd get the plant out of the bottle without tearing up the root system, and came up with lining the inside with cheesecloth and then filling it up with my potting mix so I'd just have to pull on the cheesecloth and pop it all right out.

Think any of this will work in my favor?

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Sweetcheeks
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So sorry... I totally didn't realize I was posting in the seed starting forum! Thought I was over in the containers... :oops: I'll redirect my questions there!

WinglessAngel
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As many have said already, I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one that saves my yogurt pots, sour cream pots etc lol. My patio and deck in and out of garden season ends up looking like a recycling center but they always get used and I always seem to need more! This year I swiped the egg cartons for my small breed tomato seedlings to start the seeds in, the rest are all seeded into yogurt pots and leftover plant pots from the nursery and since I always buy a whole tray of tomato plants at a time (beefsteaks only, as hubby loves them and I can never seem to get them to grow from seed) I save the trays and use those for holders for all the refilled and seeded pots lol. I think I'm going to need to stock up on yogurt our next grocer trip to get more cups lol Then again I might just buy a pack of beer cups (the plastic kind lol)

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applestar
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applestar wrote:When I first uppot, I soak each in a pint size tub of water so the water is at least 1/3 of the way up the container for faster absorption. After that I generally bottom water in the tray.

When you use cups that don't sit straight when crowded in the tray, you may need to add more water to the tray. It's a pain, but it's also a good idea to move them around so the ones that sit straight and the ones that are leaning take turns, and really keep an eye on them and "heft test" for ones that are not getting watered enough.

I think the number of holes are enough -- did you put all the holes in the flat-to-the-bottom ring or were some of them in the raised center part that won't touch the bottom?

This year, I realized after watching some blogs (Wintersown is one of them, I have to look up the other but it was a soil blocking blog) that drainage doesnt have to be from circular holes. I have been using a box cutter to make slits on the bottom and sides of the cups and cut-off bottles (slits on the sides go at least 1/2 way up -- for better aeration of the root zone and this prevents circling of the roots according to one blog source).
Image Image

With these, it's important to water thoroughly. The soil may look moist on the surface and yet the bottom portions could be dry. "Heft Test" is essential. With these, I've found that bottom watering takes forever. I find it better to fill the top of the cup THREE times, letting the water soak in each time.

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applestar
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They look like this now:
Image
Image
Image

brinboise
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I use the plastic cups, but it didn't take long to realize that the drainage holes were a pain....literally, I drilled them, used a knife, heated skewer but then :idea: like applestar, slit the dang things with a box knife. Oh so easy and seems to work better than the ones I did with round (kinda) drainage holes...

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applestar
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One more update photos of the tall plastic cups and sod bottles with vertical slits.

It's possible for them to get completely root bound :oops:
Image
...rest of the plant...
Image

In the following photos, I'm holding the rootball upside down.

I think the roots do tend to grow down rather than around:
Image
...rest of the plant... :wink:
Image

In this photo, you can clearly see where the slits were. They do seem to have affected the direction of root development:
Image

With the cut off soda bottles, the roots grow down following the contour of the bottle. Reminds me of the specialty star shaped cell trays and pots:
Image

evtubbergh
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We get these little beneficial yoghurt drinks in tiny little bottles about 2cm across. I cut the tops off and drill a hole in each one then I have the best seed starter cups. The best is I can give seedlings away individually, which I can't do when I plant the seeds into trays.

phonelady61
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I use the leftover sundae cups from mcdonalds for seed starting and the lids too . just punch holes in top and bottom and wallah you have a humid environment and seed starting . You can also use the milkshake and the latte ' cups as well .just cover the top hole where the straw goes with tape and then pop two holes on each side of the top . I love to recycle I also use cake left over containers like the kind you get from the bakery to seed start also ....I love to recycle .

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RamonaGS
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I use the plastic containers from the bakery too, but I don't really eat those sundaes so never thought of using them. Good ideas though, lol :)

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I see all these started sets for one container its $6 when there are all kinds of thing to use that are something that you just throw away. One thing I found that I like for a small seed starting container is the container I buy with a whole chicken at Wal Mart of Shop & Save. It is black plastic at the bottom but clear at the top lid. The lid is 6 by 8 by 3.5 inches and the black bottom is is almost 2 inches deep. What is nice is the black absorbs the heat so the seeds start quicker. The clear top will hold the moisture even after the seed starts. I bet I can leave a tomato in this box till it gets sever sets of leaves!
Milk cartons along with many other containers you just pitch! I buy boiled peanuts in a 25 ounce can Wal Mart the can is over 4 inches deep and 3.5 inch round and I plan on using them for up pots! They sell the boiled peanuts all over the south but here in Pa. I can only buy them at Wal Mart for $1.99 a can and they are great still in the shell! How about some container ideas!?

imafan26
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I use the grape containers to start seeds. They come with their own ventilation holes. I did think of using the chicken containers but the shape did not use space efficiently and I don't need a dome on my seedlings except for peppers and that is because the birds eat the seeds.

lisam625
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So many great ideas!! LOVE LOVE LOVE being resourceful.
Thanks!

MB3
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I use anything I can stick dirt in:
old soymilk cartons (standing up or with a side split out and laying down), margerine tubs, plastic cups, plastic bottles and jars, old foil roasting pans (even better with a clear lid for humidity dome), foil pie pans, plastic pie pans and carry out trays, sidewalk salt "melt" jug. I don't even eat lots of processed food, and don't eat out, but I can sometimes score things from recycling.
sometimes I drill or puncture holes in the bottoms, sometimes not. some things crack or break with holes put in them

thegarden@902
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Hi there. I am trying eggshells for the first time. :) I am growing morning glories in them! I'll be sure to report back how it goes!

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ElizabethB
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Egg Shells? What a novel idea! I usually rinse them out and crush them up and toss in the compost bin. I do make use of the egg cartons for seed starting. Punch a few holes in the bottom of each cell for drainage.

I love this forum. So many creative and inventive ideas.

Thanks all

BTW - I use egg cartons to store my earrings in. Nice an tidy>

evtubbergh
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Bobberman wrote:I see all these started sets for one container its $6 when there are all kinds of thing to use that are something that you just throw away. One thing I found that I like for a small seed starting container is the container I buy with a whole chicken at Wal Mart of Shop & Save. It is black plastic at the bottom but clear at the top lid. The lid is 6 by 8 by 3.5 inches and the black bottom is is almost 2 inches deep. What is nice is the black absorbs the heat so the seeds start quicker. The clear top will hold the moisture even after the seed starts. I bet I can leave a tomato in this box till it gets sever sets of leaves!
Milk cartons along with many other containers you just pitch! I buy boiled peanuts in a 25 ounce can Wal Mart the can is over 4 inches deep and 3.5 inch round and I plan on using them for up pots! They sell the boiled peanuts all over the south but here in Pa. I can only buy them at Wal Mart for $1.99 a can and they are great still in the shell! How about some container ideas!?
I also use the chicken containers from the grocery store. They make fantastic greenhouses. And I don't worry about the space because when they get bigger I move them anyway.
imafan26 wrote:I use the grape containers to start seeds. They come with their own ventilation holes. I did think of using the chicken containers but the shape did not use space efficiently and I don't need a dome on my seedlings except for peppers and that is because the birds eat the seeds.
I did get plenty (I was offered 500) clear plastic mushroom boxes with hinged lids and drainage holes. They are really perfect for germination. I use them for indoor early starting.

roseycheeks
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I got some cardboard cups from somebody and thought I would plant 1 and only 1 forget-m-not seed in it, so I filled the cup till it was about 1/2 inch from the top, laid the seed in it and poured(gently) water on it until the water came out the hole that I put in it. Then I put it in a cottage cheese container to catch the potting soil and excess water and put it under the flourescent lamp, they say windowsill, but mine is getting too cold to do that with. So will let you know of the progress, I decided that it would be better if I just planted one seed and see what happens with it, instead of a whole pack. It was a little easier with these seeds, they were not that tiny and I was able to snag one with my tweezers. So the experiment begins.......

xtgold
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toilet paper rolls stapled together like a beehive config
for deeper use paper towel rolls full size or cut in half.

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applestar
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I sometimes ran into problems with mold growing on the TP tubes and sudden N deficiency when the roots reach the cardboard. What have your experiences been like?

xtgold
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I never had that problem with tomatoes,usually it's the tubes falling apart too fast.
I try to make the bunch a tight fit in a plastic container to retain the soil.

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applestar
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Subject: 2014-15 Winter Indoor Tomatoes... + sugar snaps and cucumber
applestar wrote:The upstairs Coyote finally bit the dust. I'm pretty sure upstairs is not as suitable for Winter Indoor Tomato growing because it's warmer = drier.

But I had some Utyonok seedlings in reserve, so I uppotted it after doubling the container capacity to 2 gallons:
Image
This window gets the sun from sunrise until the sun turns the house corner. Amount of sun exposure will increase every day now as the sun rises a little earlier and further east every day. 8)

A Happy Seedling
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Homemade seed starters can work surprisingly well if you build them correctly. Here you can share homemade seed starter ideas.

I will start off with:

Find apples that come in those big plastic cases with large bumps on either side to enclose the apples. Finish the apples. Put soil into each depression on the bottom, plant a seed to a pair of seeds in the middle of each cell. Voila, your homemade seed starter!

A Happy Seedling
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Also, you can do the same thing as mentioned above with egg cases (made of plastic) and egg cartons (made of cardboard). The cartons are easier to cut apart but the cases are sturdier. The cartons may get soggy and disintegrate, while cases are unaffected by water (but cases don't have drainage). I personally have not made a water bottle bottom planter yet, but it seems to be a pretty good option for seed starting if you make many. Note that there is no room for large pits in these starters.

A Happy Seedling
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Wow, my new topic Homemade Seed Starters could really benefit from these! It's amazing how many materials can be turned into cups/pots/planters. Just use your imagination!

A Happy Seedling
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Oops that was supposed to be a topic, let me try to move them.

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applestar
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I planted some sprouted peppers in 2" miniblocks. 8 miniblocks fit perfectly in this 1/2 gal Rice Milk carton -- with approx. 3/8~1/4" spacing to separate the blocks for air pruning the roots.

The question I'm still trying to solve is how to effect air pruning on the bottom. I tried putting a piece of cardboard on the bottom, but that didn't work. A 1/2" layer of sand just meant the roots grew in the sand. This box has X's cut all over the bottom with a box cutter. I ordered a roll of food grade dehydrator mesh to try. I read about some people using plastic craft mesh, but I'm not sure about using them. The dehydrator mesh is rated "food grade", BPA-free, and withstands temps to 450°F, which should mean they don't break down so easily.
Image

Left photo shows the sprouted Eggplants in pudding cups, and extra peppers in K-cups.

Emptying and saving the UCG (used coffee grounds) from K-cups and using the little cups for starting and first uppot of small and slow-growing seedlings is an on-going experiment. One or two holes made by the Keurig brewer is definitely not enough, and you have to do something about the interior filter.

Last year, I tried removing the filter completely vs. leaving the filter intact -- which lost almost 1/4~1/3 of the volume and left a gap. Celery seedlings that were able to grow roots through the filter did better but we're still stunted compared to celery seedlings that had the entire K-cup to grow in and received ample water at each watering. I tried applying the SIP (sub-irrigated planter) method of keeping water in the drip tray just to the filter level, but it was too difficult to maintain such a shallow water level and required an absolutely level surface. The variation in filter material also had an effect.

Some brand K-cup filters didn't break down quickly enough and the plants became root bound and dried up. When removing the plants from the K-cups, some seedlings that grew roots into the deteriorating filters were stuck when the glued on filter edges wouldn't come off -- some brands pulled right off, others were so stuck that the filters had to be ripped off, breaking the roots in the process.

But removing the filters completely is a tedious and messy process. It adds to the overall processing time and effort.

This year, I'm trying just ripping up the filter by poking a hole in it while I'm scraping out the UCG a with a spoon or a chopstick, then stacking the empty K-cups and pushing them into each other. This completely rips the filter but then it's bit hard to pull the K-cups apart. You could cut your hand trying if not careful.

For drainage, last year I tried punching holes with an awl which was tedious, and cutting slits with box cutter which didn't drain enough and caused anaerobic mess.

This year, I realized it's much simpler to just cut the bottom edge where the side of the cup meets the bottom with scissors. I'm trying three snips vs. four. I'm also trying cutting a few vertical slits with the box cutter,mbut that may not be necessary.

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applestar
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K-CUPS --

I've tried a bunch of different ways to create drainage holes, but decided snipping the bottom corner in 4 places is the easiest and most efficient way to mass prep these. I also trim the top rim to save space (comfort grip angled blade utility scissors can handle the job without causing hand strain)
image.jpg
-- still deciding if it's worth the extra time and effort to pull off the filters.... It's easier to slip the rootball out from the smooth sides without filters -- so seedlings that expect only a short period in the K-cups (when the filters still remain relatively intact) should have their filters removed, but if growing in them until warm weather (about two months) then I think the filters will be soggy and decomposing by then.

greenhill
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This year we used newspapers. I didn't want to use tape though, so I'll be able to just plant it as is. I found a way to fold it, origami style, that doesn't require tape. The wife and I spent about 2 hours off and on folding and filling. Monotonous, but definitely worth the effort. They come out perfectly square and hold together very nicely. I'll let you know how they hold up to the watering and transplanting!
IMG_2186.JPG
IMG_2187.JPG

A Happy Seedling
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All great ideas! Have you tried the trays tomatoes come in? They are nice and deep, plus they come with a greenhouse lid!

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applestar
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I really like the origami paper pot idea. I had instructions for a similar no glue/tape, tuck in origami pot and tried it a few years ago, but had some problems. I've been experimenting with soilblocks and would recommend using a web flat/solid tray combo for holding the origami pots and bottom watering.

I found the paper pots deteriorated too much for some seedlings that don't get planted out until well past last frost. I like this new design because there is some extra layers for the sides to stiffen (and no taping/gluing). But if the bottom is single layer, then that might become a problem... too many multi-layer bottom can be a problem, too.

I'm definitely going to try folding some of these as soon as I get the chance.
I might try making these for the last uppot of tomato and pepper seedlings -- I need something that would let me deep-plant tomato seedlings growing in 2" mini soilblocks.

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applestar
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OK, made some trial paper pots today :D
This is a good design -- I like it a lot. Since I'll be using packing paper, I found a way to adjust for dimensional differences (just a matter of an extra fold), but since the design uses self correcting square-making folds, it adjusts itself to form a cube if you follow the basic design concept.

One standard packing paper made 3" cubes... Which doesn't fit exactly to fill a web tray. I did find ONE packaged cake insert that holds three of them exactly, and uppotted Cardinal (or Feurio) chards 8) ... But that was the only one.
image.jpg
Another one made a 4" cube. I'm going to try all different packing papers to see how they turn out without intentionally measuring and cutting to size. THEN if none of them will automatically end up as desired size, I'll try to figure out what size paper I need to start from.



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