A Happy Seedling
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Homemade Seed Starters

Homemade seed starters can work surprisingly well if you build them correctly. Here you can share homemade seed starter ideas.

I will start off with:

Find apples that come in those big plastic cases with large bumps on either side to enclose the apples. Finish the apples. Put soil into each depression on the bottom, plant a seed to a pair of seeds in the middle of each cell. Voila, your homemade seed starter!

A Happy Seedling
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Also, you can do the same thing as mentioned above with egg cases (made of plastic) and egg cartons (made of cardboard). The cartons are easier to cut apart but the cases are sturdier. The cartons may get soggy and disintegrate, while cases are unaffected by water (but cases don't have drainage). I personally have not made a water bottle bottom planter yet, but it seems to be a pretty good option for seed starting if you make many. Note that there is no room for large pits in these starters.

A Happy Seedling
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Wow, my new topic Homemade Seed Starters could really benefit from these! It's amazing how many materials can be turned into cups/pots/planters. Just use your imagination!

A Happy Seedling
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Oops that was supposed to be a topic, let me try to move them.

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applestar
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I planted some sprouted peppers in 2" miniblocks. 8 miniblocks fit perfectly in this 1/2 gal Rice Milk carton -- with approx. 3/8~1/4" spacing to separate the blocks for air pruning the roots.

The question I'm still trying to solve is how to effect air pruning on the bottom. I tried putting a piece of cardboard on the bottom, but that didn't work. A 1/2" layer of sand just meant the roots grew in the sand. This box has X's cut all over the bottom with a box cutter. I ordered a roll of food grade dehydrator mesh to try. I read about some people using plastic craft mesh, but I'm not sure about using them. The dehydrator mesh is rated "food grade", BPA-free, and withstands temps to 450°F, which should mean they don't break down so easily.
Image

Left photo shows the sprouted Eggplants in pudding cups, and extra peppers in K-cups.

Emptying and saving the UCG (used coffee grounds) from K-cups and using the little cups for starting and first uppot of small and slow-growing seedlings is an on-going experiment. One or two holes made by the Keurig brewer is definitely not enough, and you have to do something about the interior filter.

Last year, I tried removing the filter completely vs. leaving the filter intact -- which lost almost 1/4~1/3 of the volume and left a gap. Celery seedlings that were able to grow roots through the filter did better but we're still stunted compared to celery seedlings that had the entire K-cup to grow in and received ample water at each watering. I tried applying the SIP (sub-irrigated planter) method of keeping water in the drip tray just to the filter level, but it was too difficult to maintain such a shallow water level and required an absolutely level surface. The variation in filter material also had an effect.

Some brand K-cup filters didn't break down quickly enough and the plants became root bound and dried up. When removing the plants from the K-cups, some seedlings that grew roots into the deteriorating filters were stuck when the glued on filter edges wouldn't come off -- some brands pulled right off, others were so stuck that the filters had to be ripped off, breaking the roots in the process.

But removing the filters completely is a tedious and messy process. It adds to the overall processing time and effort.

This year, I'm trying just ripping up the filter by poking a hole in it while I'm scraping out the UCG a with a spoon or a chopstick, then stacking the empty K-cups and pushing them into each other. This completely rips the filter but then it's bit hard to pull the K-cups apart. You could cut your hand trying if not careful.

For drainage, last year I tried punching holes with an awl which was tedious, and cutting slits with box cutter which didn't drain enough and caused anaerobic mess.

This year, I realized it's much simpler to just cut the bottom edge where the side of the cup meets the bottom with scissors. I'm trying three snips vs. four. I'm also trying cutting a few vertical slits with the box cutter,mbut that may not be necessary.

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applestar
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K-CUPS --

I've tried a bunch of different ways to create drainage holes, but decided snipping the bottom corner in 4 places is the easiest and most efficient way to mass prep these. I also trim the top rim to save space (comfort grip angled blade utility scissors can handle the job without causing hand strain)
image.jpg
-- still deciding if it's worth the extra time and effort to pull off the filters.... It's easier to slip the rootball out from the smooth sides without filters -- so seedlings that expect only a short period in the K-cups (when the filters still remain relatively intact) should have their filters removed, but if growing in them until warm weather (about two months) then I think the filters will be soggy and decomposing by then.

greenhill
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This year we used newspapers. I didn't want to use tape though, so I'll be able to just plant it as is. I found a way to fold it, origami style, that doesn't require tape. The wife and I spent about 2 hours off and on folding and filling. Monotonous, but definitely worth the effort. They come out perfectly square and hold together very nicely. I'll let you know how they hold up to the watering and transplanting!
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A Happy Seedling
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All great ideas! Have you tried the trays tomatoes come in? They are nice and deep, plus they come with a greenhouse lid!

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applestar
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I really like the origami paper pot idea. I had instructions for a similar no glue/tape, tuck in origami pot and tried it a few years ago, but had some problems. I've been experimenting with soilblocks and would recommend using a web flat/solid tray combo for holding the origami pots and bottom watering.

I found the paper pots deteriorated too much for some seedlings that don't get planted out until well past last frost. I like this new design because there is some extra layers for the sides to stiffen (and no taping/gluing). But if the bottom is single layer, then that might become a problem... too many multi-layer bottom can be a problem, too.

I'm definitely going to try folding some of these as soon as I get the chance.
I might try making these for the last uppot of tomato and pepper seedlings -- I need something that would let me deep-plant tomato seedlings growing in 2" mini soilblocks.

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applestar
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OK, made some trial paper pots today :D
This is a good design -- I like it a lot. Since I'll be using packing paper, I found a way to adjust for dimensional differences (just a matter of an extra fold), but since the design uses self correcting square-making folds, it adjusts itself to form a cube if you follow the basic design concept.

One standard packing paper made 3" cubes... Which doesn't fit exactly to fill a web tray. I did find ONE packaged cake insert that holds three of them exactly, and uppotted Cardinal (or Feurio) chards 8) ... But that was the only one.
image.jpg
Another one made a 4" cube. I'm going to try all different packing papers to see how they turn out without intentionally measuring and cutting to size. THEN if none of them will automatically end up as desired size, I'll try to figure out what size paper I need to start from.

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applestar
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Latest revision on K-CUP recycling for seed starting -- reviewing and learning from previous experiments, this is my latest/improved method for repurposing them for seed starting.

1-3/4' diameter after cutting off the rim is a very good size for starting tiny seeds up to tomato/pepper seed size. 7 of them fit snugly in the larger takeout sandwich and pastry clamshells, optimizing space.

One disadvantage is that it lacks sufficient depth when the seedlings are ready to start growing true leaves, and I always want to plant tomato seedlings deeper when uppotting.

Last year, I started experimenting with double-deckering them after they outgrew the cup. This year, I've hit upon a way to make this process easier. Also decided the filter creates more problem than it's worth, and easiest way to get them out is to simply cut the top rim off along with the attached lid, then trim the top edge another sliver to cut off the glued edge of the filter along with the plastic. Then the filter and UCG dump out easily.
image.jpeg
Because the inner cup has no bottom, they Can be popped out easily for dividing and uppotting as necessary. For simply double-deckering, I just pull the inner cup out, fill the bottom cup, and stack. A tape on each side has turned out to be essential to keep the upper cup from falling off until the roots fill the bottom cup. At planting time, I simply cut off the bottom and sometimes cut up the sides to use as plant label (a little nail hole and twist tie). :mrgreen:

It turned out that I can fit 14 2Kc's in tripled clear plastic egg carton lid. Only problem is they have to be matching cartons. I hope I can find more among the saved egg cartons. 8) I think the larger clear container is the one from H-mart (Korean super market) I can't remember how many, but the 2Kc's also fit exactly. :-() The white one looks like a 1/2 dozen egg carton, but is actually a tray in which Mochi Icecream came in, and it wastes space due to the spacing between the cells, but I can make it work by putting two more on the ledge between the cells for total of 8. It's sturdy and can also be strengthened by stacking two trays. Image

babybadger_417
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Can I use the recycled container method for lavender or Nasturtiums? The room I'm growing them in is very dry, and I think that this could help.

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Which recycled container method? If you mean Spoonzip, lavender takes too long to germinate -- it will be too much trouble to monitor and maintain the tiny environment, and nasturtium seeds are too big.

There's a thread about starting lavender from seeds somewhere. I remember posting details about starting them last year or the year before.

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Subject: 2016 -- starting seeds and cuttings for the new season
applestar wrote:Tomatoes really are not that fussy. They are all germinating and sprouting at once! :shock:

Transplanting the sprouted seedlings into 2Kc's (doubled K-cups) is tedious but the process is pretty much automatic now while listening to music or audio-book. :wink: Sand size DE is working out great. The roots slide right out after adding enough water to puddle (a squirt with a pipette ...or a sprayer... makes it easy and uneventful). I use a moistened bamboo skewer to "handle" the seedlings in Spoonzip (A plastic fork for the seedlings in seed starting mix).

Image

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applestar
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applestar wrote:Latest revision on K-CUP recycling for seed starting -- reviewing and learning from previous experiments, this is my latest/improved method for repurposing them for seed starting.

1-3/4' diameter after cutting off the rim is a very good size for starting tiny seeds up to tomato/pepper seed size. 7 of them fit snugly in the larger takeout sandwich and pastry clamshells, optimizing space.

One disadvantage is that it lacks sufficient depth when the seedlings are ready to start growing true leaves, and I always want to plant tomato seedlings deeper when uppotting.

Last year, I started experimenting with double-deckering them after they outgrew the cup. This year, I've hit upon a way to make this process easier. Also decided the filter creates more problem than it's worth, and easiest way to get them out is to simply cut the top rim off along with the attached lid, then trim the top edge another sliver to cut off the glued edge of the filter along with the plastic. Then the filter and UCG dump out easily.
image.jpeg
Image

Because the inner cup has no bottom, they Can be popped out easily for dividing and uppotting as necessary. For simply double-deckering, I just pull the inner cup out, fill the bottom cup, and stack. A tape on each side has turned out to be essential to keep the upper cup from falling off until the roots fill the bottom cup. At planting time, I simply cut off the bottom and sometimes cut up the sides to use as plant label (a little nail hole and twist tie). :mrgreen:

It turned out that I can fit 14 2Kc's in tripled clear plastic egg carton lid. Only problem is they have to be matching cartons. I hope I can find more among the saved egg cartons. 8) I think the larger clear container is the one from H-mart (Korean super market) I can't remember how many, but the 2Kc's also fit exactly. :-() The white one looks like a 1/2 dozen egg carton, but is actually a tray in which Mochi Icecream came in, and it wastes space due to the spacing between the cells, but I can make it work by putting two more on the ledge between the cells for total of 8. It's sturdy and can also be strengthened by stacking two trays. Image
I like to gather them on recycled containers that are sized to fit them snugly without leaving much wasted space. Then once I have enough of them, I put them on a web tray inside a standard no-hole tray -- 66 2Kc's or single K-cups fit almost exactly ... 6 rows of 11:
image.jpeg

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applestar
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I Uppotted a couple of double-deckered 2KC tomato seedlings today. I took the two pieces of tape off, eased the bottom cup off, then cut the upper bottomless cup open to ease the rootball out. I originally intended to cut the bottom cup off, too, but I'm running out of K-cups and have to re-use these. Rubbing alcohol easily removes permanent marker like sharpie. Marks-a-Lot which DOES NOT FADE in the sun like Sharpie, needs a brief soak then a little elbow grease.
image.jpeg
I got 5 oz drink cups at Walmart to uppot in and these narrow cups fit in a standard tray exactly. I'll post a picture later (iPad ran out of battery :roll: )

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applestar
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Did I ever show which paper pot method I settled on? I’ve tried various methods for making paperpots, including glueing, stapling, taping, as well as no-fastener origami. My conclusion has been that methods requiring cutting papers to specific size and/or dimensions as well as those requiring fastening device are too time-consuming. My time is limited.

Newspaper, etc. thinner papers no matter how many layers are too flimsy.

I had tried toilet paper (TP) and paper towel (PT) core tubes in the past and failed. Several issues — open bottoms tubes resulted in lost potting mix and unacceptable subsidence. While kitchen paper towel tubes feel “cleaner,” they need to be cut down to size which disqualified them in the end in addition to the above issues. Cutting TP tubes in half was rejected.

They also tend to end-up with weird mushrooms growing out of them, or mildew, and other fungal growths. There was also the issue of too much moisture retention similar to peat pots, etc. Also, often seedlings ran into N deficiency/deprivation when the roots came in contact with the yet-unbroken down tube wall.


...HOWEVER... I kept going back to the TP tubes because the diameter and height of the tubes/depth for the roots were ideal for certain kinds of seedlings, especially ones that don’t like to be disturbed.

Well, I discovered that the fungi and moisture problems is partly a question of using a container for the tubes that drain excess water from the bottom and is more breathable than plastic. Using cinnamon and chamomile tea as fungus gnat preventive also helps to reduce fungal growths. Also, choosing seedlings that grow relatively fast and do not need to be kept in the tubes for too long, and are resistant to fungal contamination from these kinds of fungi. I also realized the N-deficiency issues could be overcome without burning the roots by introducing compost worms to the soil after the seedlings reach a certain size. They also help to break down the tubes faster and create weak spots for the roots to grow through, but I decided to help the roots even more.

I fiddled with the structure and assembly some more — this is my current design:
1) use a pill bottle as depth and base folding form.
2) cut 8 vertical slits in the sides to help the roots escape
3) 9 tubes fit with a little deforming in a straight sided ice cream tub.
4) after the tubes are all in, cut upside-down V between the tubes along the base of the tub just above the bottom for drainage.
5) put a leaf or a pice of paper in the bottom of the tubes before filling to temporarily keep mix from falling out, and use a cut-off plastic bottle funnel to direct the potting mix.

Image

Ice cream tub fits well in a Chinese take out tray as drip tray. I prefer white ones for light reflection.

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I'd observed the same about the various DIY paper/cardboard seedling pots. I'm glad you mention you gave up on making them out of newspaper because I figured I just was too impatient or not thinking it through. It never was satisfactory for me. I like the idea of folding the end of a TP tube down a bit for the bottom, and slits in the side for eventual rooting through.

Good ideas.

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I can’t believe it! I realized I hadn’t posted about how I’m prepping the K-cups this year. I know every year, I change my methods and say THIS is the best way by far.... but I think maybe THIS is REALLY the final version :P

The first post at the top of this page (Page 8 ) details the progression in 2016. The doubled K-cup design was almost perfect except that when I was removing the rootball, I had to snip off the remaining corners and also delicately extract roots that grew out from the cut corners... which, last year, I decided was too much trouble.

So this year, I went one step further and almost completely cut off the bottom of the inner K-cup. The flap is held in place by the fact that it is doubled with the 2nd K-cup which is not cut at all and only has the single hole punched in the bottom by the Keurig machine. The top photo shows how I trim the top edge by cutting twice around with the utility scissors - first to cut off the rim and 2nd to cut free the filter.

Image

By doubling the K-cup the container becomes sturdier. The flap allows the roots to escape without hindrance and removal only requires pushing the rootball out from the bottom. The roots that has escaped to the outer K-cup generally coils in the bottom and rarely tries to escape from the tiny hole. The moisture/humidity retained between the two cups from bottom watering helps keep the roots from drying out.

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I also use the toilet rolls and paper towel rolls, cut to size. Had the same issues with soil falling out when moving them, so I also started folding the bottoms over. The other thing I found handy is when planting the "tubes" into the beds, I gently partly cut the cardboard before filling in around it. This gives the roots more chance to spread before the cardboard breaks down, and since doing that, have had less failures.

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This thread is right up my alley I am a pack rat I save and reuse everything. I save 1 gallon milk jugs, 2 liter soft drink bottles, 16 oz soft drink bottles, water bottles, metal food cans, glass jars, styrofoam cups, plastic cups, wine bottles, deli plastic food containers, nursery 1 gallon & 2 gallon pots, plastic coffee containers, 5 gallon buckets, junk microwave ovens, junk TVs, cardboard boxes, styrofoam insulation boards, old water hoses, misc PVC pipe pieces, scrap lumber, used nails, tarps, ropes, wooden & metal stakes, and many other things too.

Poke a tiny pin hole at the bottom side of a milk jug fill it with water then set it next to a new plant in the garden that needs water for several day until it grows larger roots to stay alive without help. Water very slowly leaks out and keeps the plant wet.

Plastic coffee containers are good to keep fertilizer in. Leave them in the garden where they are needed rain will never get fertilizer wet with the snap on lid.

2 gallon plastic flowers pots work great for me to start seeds. Sprinkle 50 seeds on soil surface the large soil volume does not dry out fast if I forget to water for a week no problem. I scoop plants out with a tablespoon to transplant in the garden.

Metal food cans are good for adding iron to garden soil. Burn cans in a fire to remove varnish they rust faster. Keep cans in a 5 gallon water bucket they rust away in a few month. Bury cans in the soil they are gone in 6 months.

I use large 8" tall restaurant styrofoam cups to root cuttings. Put rooting powder on 8" long cuttings put them in 8" deep cup then fill with soil. Poke nail holes in styrofoam cups near the bottom all the way around the sides. Place cup in a plastic coffee container with 2" of water in coffee container. Cut bottom off of a 2 liter soft drink bottle place bottle over styrofoam cup like a green house. Leave plastic cap on soft drink bottle. Water in coffee container keeps cuttings wet for months. Keep this outside in full shade new leaves start to grow in 1 months, leaves are much larger in 2 months.

After electronic parts are removed from microwave oven for fun projects lay microwave over on its back fill inside with soil it makes a good flower pot.

Remove plastic case from old junk large 100 lb or 150 lb TV they make large free flower pots. I saw large 10 gallon flower pots $30 each at Lowe's last week.

I used a Root Beer soft drink bottle and clear plastic deli container to make my own clear see threw covid-19 face shield. Those masks with ear straps get tangled in my glasses & hearing aids plus they tickle my face & nose and fog my glasses so I can not see.

I have collected 6 large kitchen stove cardboard boxes, refrigerator box, kitchen cabinet boxes, to build several projects. Paper tape, stapler, glue, makes it easy to build.

I have an assortment of different size glass jars for seeds and dry herbs.

Empty plastic cat food bags are great to remove dry beans from pods. After first bean harvest let remaining beans make seeds and dry on the plants for 1 month. Put dry beans/pods in bag beat bag against a tree of brick wall. On a very windy day pour beans on a tarp the light weight dry pots blow away then beans on tarps are ready to scoop up into jars.
Last edited by Gary350 on Sat Jun 20, 2020 5:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Vanisle_BC
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Gary;

Great hints & suggestions .

I'm conducting a private war, or at least a few battles & major skirmishes, against plastic. So I try to avoid acquiring any more of it; as well as wringing the last possible use out of whatever I already have. My frugal upbringing/nature helps a lot :).

Those waxed (?) milk cartons can be used to grow deep roots on tomatoes. You can slit them part way down the corners and fold the sides down (hold down with rubber bands) to make smaller pots until the seedlings start strong growth; then bring the sides up progressively, adding more soil around the stem until you have a deep-rooted plant ready to set out.

Cardboard tubes: Make a few slits up from the bottom to form tabs you can bend under to keep the soil in. I also use a kitchen fork to poke small holes near the bottom to help roots escape. It's good to bury the top rim of the tube when transplanting; if sticking up it can wick moisture away from the soil.

I've tried various origami-type paper pots but in my case they tend to suffer from the same drying-out syndrome; unless I keep them very wet, in which case they lose strength & often fall apart.

OJbottl.jpg
I now have several of these OJ bottles (plastic, Grrrr). With the bottoms cut off and the caps off I think they will make great cloches.

Fun projects with microwave parts? I'll pass on that one. Sounds as though it could be hazardous in the wrong hands (like mine.)

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I am a chronic recycler/repurposed! When you are on a tight budget it's almost mandatory. I raised chickens for about five years and after thoroughly reading and researching ways to do it I found that the possibilities are limited by your imagination only! I found free stuff everywhere and located leftover materials of my own that functioned fine (I'm all about function over form), and have no regrets as it worked out well. My coop was actually an old A frame swing set!

I currently use seed trays my mother had in storage years ago. They work great.

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I continue to use cookie boxes from the supermarket for starting seed.

( ;) I wish that I hadn't used tinypic etc. for photo hosting on the forum, long ago ;).)

Something somewhat new is that I use berry boxes from the market. They require extra material and effort but we have had quite a few available. The multiple holes in the bottom and the lid are too many. It's necessary to cover the entire box with a plastic bag. A piece of the bag is then cut to fit into the lid when the lid is cut off the box to be used as a tray beneath the box for the time before the seedlings are moved into 4-packs.

All that is not as efficient as the cookie box. A smaller-size container that works better is the one used at the deli for sandwiches. Holes for bottom watering have to be punched but the sandwich boxes are not common to our shopping habits.

Steve



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