[img]https://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g413/Boomslang131/Picture076.jpg[/img]
This pic is when I was cleaning out my system
My hydro system..............
Here is a pic of my hydroponic system that I made. I'm still new to hydro, however. I bought a 24" grow light with 8 T5 bulbs. I grew some cantaloupe just to see how it would do inside. They did fine until they were about 4 weeks grown, then the leaves started turning brown and splotchy. I believe I had my nutrients too strong when I last changed them. Trying to decide what to try next. Any suggestions?
[img]https://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g413/Boomslang131/Picture076.jpg[/img]
This pic is when I was cleaning out my system
[img]https://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g413/Boomslang131/Picture076.jpg[/img]
This pic is when I was cleaning out my system
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TCHarris32
- Full Member
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 2:46 pm
- Location: Indy
Was really just trying to keep them off the bottom and a little closer to the root system. Don't guess it matters much since the bubbles will float up anyway. 
I tend to over-think things a bit.
How much do you cut back on the nutrients according to what the nutrient label recommends. I think that's what happened to my cantaloupe experiment. I cut back some but not enough and caused nute burn.
I tend to over-think things a bit.How much do you cut back on the nutrients according to what the nutrient label recommends. I think that's what happened to my cantaloupe experiment. I cut back some but not enough and caused nute burn.
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TCHarris32
- Full Member
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 2:46 pm
- Location: Indy
I'm using Botanicare Power plant and at the recommended 15mL/G it puts the TDS at about 825-850ppm. For vegetative, I am told that's too high. My plants seem to be doing alright but next time around now that I have a TDS meter, I'll be watching more closely. So I guess what I'm saying is probably start out about 25% and see what happens. If you don't have a TDS meter, get one. The TDS-3 is about $37msrp and so far appears to work well. You can find it cheaper online if you look around.
As far as the stones go, I would probably take them off the racks. The root systems will grow around that and you'll have a headache on your hands if you have to pull the plant for any reason. Replacing the stone, cleaning the bucket, etc...
As far as the stones go, I would probably take them off the racks. The root systems will grow around that and you'll have a headache on your hands if you have to pull the plant for any reason. Replacing the stone, cleaning the bucket, etc...
Looks like a nice system your putting together Boomslang! Couple of thoughts that come to mind when I read your post and looking at your picture: I'd do ike TC said and lose the baskets the air stones are tied to. Wont do anything to increase the disolved oxygen content of your nurtient solution but will be a pain to clean after a grow is completed.
Speaking of growing, every indoor garden has the same limitation, mine and yours and anybody else who tries their hand at it and that is light. The light system you have is a good choice, got 2 of them myself, but it has its limits. It and just about any other fluorescent out there will only grow plants in an area the size of the lights. Your 8 bulb 2' T5 system is basically a 2' x 2' square frame so that's going to be about the size of growing area your plants will thrive in. 4 (5gl) DWC pots you have in the picture will be pushing the capabilities of your lights. Remember that light intensity (lumens is the best measurement we have available today) decreases by 50% for every 12" of distance from the bulb. Your bulbs are 24 watts each so you have to keep them really close to the plants.
I've tried a number of plants of the years and all things being equal, light is the determining factor. I've ran every thing from a 1000 watt dual arc HID system down to a 125 watt cfl. So the best advice I could give you as to what to grow is to match the available light to the plants needs.
Oh, that TDS tester is really important but so is the Ph of your water. Each nutrient has a specfic range of ph that it is readily available to the plant. A ph of 5.8 - 6.1 covers most all the nutrients. You can have the ideal PPM in your solution but if the ph is 7.5 then plants can't access those nutrients efficiently.
Enough rambling from me, enjoy your garden and I'll be back to see your results. Good luck with your grow!
hydroguy
Speaking of growing, every indoor garden has the same limitation, mine and yours and anybody else who tries their hand at it and that is light. The light system you have is a good choice, got 2 of them myself, but it has its limits. It and just about any other fluorescent out there will only grow plants in an area the size of the lights. Your 8 bulb 2' T5 system is basically a 2' x 2' square frame so that's going to be about the size of growing area your plants will thrive in. 4 (5gl) DWC pots you have in the picture will be pushing the capabilities of your lights. Remember that light intensity (lumens is the best measurement we have available today) decreases by 50% for every 12" of distance from the bulb. Your bulbs are 24 watts each so you have to keep them really close to the plants.
I've tried a number of plants of the years and all things being equal, light is the determining factor. I've ran every thing from a 1000 watt dual arc HID system down to a 125 watt cfl. So the best advice I could give you as to what to grow is to match the available light to the plants needs.
Oh, that TDS tester is really important but so is the Ph of your water. Each nutrient has a specfic range of ph that it is readily available to the plant. A ph of 5.8 - 6.1 covers most all the nutrients. You can have the ideal PPM in your solution but if the ph is 7.5 then plants can't access those nutrients efficiently.
Enough rambling from me, enjoy your garden and I'll be back to see your results. Good luck with your grow!
hydroguy
