Chinese elm bonsai seedlings
Do I prune the tree and roots on a 1 yr old seedling? If so, how do I go about doing that? Can I start to wire the tree yet or does it need to grow more first? I am obviously a beginner and I'm having trouble finding answers to these specific questions. I also wonder how you can reduce the leaves on this seedling as they are rather big for a bonsai, please help - Thanks for your time!!
Elm (for me) did best simply alowed to grow for three to seven years before much pruning or training went on. I just repotted into bigger pots for those first years.
Leaf size is reduced by leaf cutting. I cut off about 80% of each leaf (in late May) and a second (smaller) set will grow in to replace them. Leaf cutting slows growth, trunk girth, and nebari growth.
Um, keeping the tops of exposed roots covered with a thin layer of soil or mulch will also speed their growth.
I don't think I ever wired an elm. it was all clip and grow.
Keep talking elms up, and I may have to get some again...
Oh phoey, I just noticed this is in the "Indoor Bonsai" forum. Elms and zelkova might need a cold frame in your zone. But they are not an indoors tree. A-n-d I would expect a cold frame it more as protection against winter breakage, than because the tree is too tender for your zone (TN?)
Leaf size is reduced by leaf cutting. I cut off about 80% of each leaf (in late May) and a second (smaller) set will grow in to replace them. Leaf cutting slows growth, trunk girth, and nebari growth.
Um, keeping the tops of exposed roots covered with a thin layer of soil or mulch will also speed their growth.
I don't think I ever wired an elm. it was all clip and grow.
Keep talking elms up, and I may have to get some again...
Oh phoey, I just noticed this is in the "Indoor Bonsai" forum. Elms and zelkova might need a cold frame in your zone. But they are not an indoors tree. A-n-d I would expect a cold frame it more as protection against winter breakage, than because the tree is too tender for your zone (TN?)
-
Gnome
- Super Green Thumb
- Posts: 5122
- Joined: Wed Jul 05, 2006 12:17 am
- Location: Western PA USDA Zone 6A
rosie1011,
The first re-potting of any seedling intended for bonsai is important. At the minimum the taproot should be reduced or removed if possible. You should always work toward a radial arrangement of the roots, furthermore they should all emerge at the same level, like the spokes of a wheel. This thread has some pictures of the process. It will be a process though and every re-potting is an opportunity to improve the trees root system.
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3423
I think you should forgo leaf reduction for now, it is way too early to worry about aesthetics. First develop a good root system and trunk, then primary branches and finally ramification and leaf reduction. You are several years away from this step for even a small bonsai, perhaps a decade for a larger one.
Wiring can impart movement to the lower trunk, as can an aggressive trunk chop later. This process involves several years of growth followed by a trunk chop. This induces movement and taper, while wiring can only create movement. Be prepared though to chop your future bonsai and trash a good portion of it, retaining only the lowest part of the trunk. That's why any thought of leave reduction now is premature.
Read this article:
https://www.evergreengardenworks.com/trunks.htm
Norm
The first re-potting of any seedling intended for bonsai is important. At the minimum the taproot should be reduced or removed if possible. You should always work toward a radial arrangement of the roots, furthermore they should all emerge at the same level, like the spokes of a wheel. This thread has some pictures of the process. It will be a process though and every re-potting is an opportunity to improve the trees root system.
https://www.helpfulgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3423
I think you should forgo leaf reduction for now, it is way too early to worry about aesthetics. First develop a good root system and trunk, then primary branches and finally ramification and leaf reduction. You are several years away from this step for even a small bonsai, perhaps a decade for a larger one.
Wiring can impart movement to the lower trunk, as can an aggressive trunk chop later. This process involves several years of growth followed by a trunk chop. This induces movement and taper, while wiring can only create movement. Be prepared though to chop your future bonsai and trash a good portion of it, retaining only the lowest part of the trunk. That's why any thought of leave reduction now is premature.
Read this article:
https://www.evergreengardenworks.com/trunks.htm
Norm