June-August is the slowest time of the year for me. Summer is like your winter. It is so hot, and there are so many pests that only perennials muddle through and few things actually get planted. However, fall is the real start of my growing season. This is when I will start my cool weather plants and change varieties to plant what would typically be your warm weather plants cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, greens. I do have to start the warm vegetables eggplant, hot peppers, onions, cucumbers, garlic (needs to be chilled in the frig since July) can be planted October 25. Texas grano seeds, broccoli, carrots, brassicas can be started in September. Some should be able to start in August, but I don't have much luck with August plantings. I planted corn in July and it should be ready in October. Then I can plant the main garden with the cool crops. Broccoli, kale, perpetual spinach, chard, bush beans. komatsuna, pak choi, choi sum, and semposai I can plant in containers, bush beans. mizuna, beets, daikon, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers. In November I can start the cool leafy greens like lettuce and arugula. It could plant gobo if If I can get a tall container together, but I probably won't, it would take too much soil to fill it.
Perennial plants will just keep going but may slow production. Hot peppers, eggplant, ginger and turmeric (harvest in November), taro, and sweet potato.
I have to stock up on media and garden supplies before the garden shops run out. They will stop ordering garden supplies so they have space for Christmas items.
A lot of you will transition to indoor gardening, but do any of you have a long enough growing season to do some fall planting?
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pepperhead212
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I planted some more cucumber seeds, to maybe get some in later September. And some early cabbage and cauliflower varieties - I usually don't have luck with cauliflower, but this is the earliest (8-5) I've planted them, and they took quite a while to come up, compared to the cabbage. Much later, in September, I'll plant faster greens, and kohlrabi. I never have great luck with broccoli, either, but most of the Asian greens grow well for me.
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applestar
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I planted brassicas inside the Sunflower Hoophouse — Eastern Magic and Green Magic broccoli, Fioretto 60 stick cauliflower, Alcosa cabbage, Minuet napa… a couple of Umaina that managed to come up, along with Ishikura Winterlong, and Kyoto Kujo, as well as Flagpole scallions. You can see a some of them in the photo of near corner (SW) of the hoophouse in the collage.
I also cleared the far corner (NE) for planting — maybe fall potatoes?
…BOTTOM RIGHT quadrant — pics of beets (some sugar peas along opposite edge), brassicas in the hoophouse, and another insect mesh low tunnel with 60 day daikon, turnips, and carrots.
Estimated harvest dates (with extra 7 days added for fall crop) according to my seed starting table —
I also cleared the far corner (NE) for planting — maybe fall potatoes?
Estimated harvest dates (with extra 7 days added for fall crop) according to my seed starting table —
In zone 12a, with short days, I can only plant short day varieties. The big box stores will sometimes bring in some onion bulbs in the Spring, but they are not the right varieties for my climate. So, I always start onions from seeds. Likewise, most companies will not ship bulbs here, so I get my garlic from the store in July, usually Costco, they have the right kind of garlic. I plant garlic on October 25. It just works out to be the best day. It is still hot in October, but it will cool down consistently by mid November.
I went to the onion field day this year and there were a couple of other short short day onions that did well and I may try them if I can find seeds in time.
I don't plant bulbing plants much. They actually take up too much space for a very long time and they don't do that well in this climate.
However, because I don't have any frost, some things which are annuals in colder zones are perennials here.
I went to the onion field day this year and there were a couple of other short short day onions that did well and I may try them if I can find seeds in time.
I don't plant bulbing plants much. They actually take up too much space for a very long time and they don't do that well in this climate.
However, because I don't have any frost, some things which are annuals in colder zones are perennials here.
I have some rattlesnake beans, silver queen corn and late crop tomatoes trying to make it thru the hot August weather. If they do then prospects are good. I grow tomatoes in big containers so when they started dying off in July I pulled them up and planted bean and corn seed.
Each year when I save tomato seed I test plant from each saving to see about germination. Most worked very well and I had plants to try for the fall.
Here's hoping and I will try to get some pictures
Each year when I save tomato seed I test plant from each saving to see about germination. Most worked very well and I had plants to try for the fall.
Here's hoping and I will try to get some pictures
@lakngulf, I also have a trellis of Rattlesnake Beans and with a slow start, most will be picked late for dry beans and Winter soup. The bush beans are playing out but there is another sowing that will start soon. Snow pea seed were sown at the end of July. The seedlings will struggle along in this heat but, hopefully, begin growing a little stronger soon and produce before frost slows them (& damages blossoms).
Cucumber starts were set out while the first sweetcorn planting was still being harvested and could shade them. Those stalks have been cut now for about 10 days. The cucumbers look fine but haven't made much growth. Usually, late cukes are set between early broccoli plants before they are pulled but Gypsy broccoli has proven that it can produce both early and late so the corn patch was tried.
Bok choy and choy sum have been growing here at home in an area that receives afternoon shade. The choy sum has been pretty much harvested with the bok choy just about ready to cut. Lettuce in with them has not really grown at all. More small choy sum and bok choy were set out yesterday in the distant garden but they are in full sun -- we will see if they can take that exposure. There was some cilantro to go in with them since seed did not germinate among the corn plants.
Steve
Cucumber starts were set out while the first sweetcorn planting was still being harvested and could shade them. Those stalks have been cut now for about 10 days. The cucumbers look fine but haven't made much growth. Usually, late cukes are set between early broccoli plants before they are pulled but Gypsy broccoli has proven that it can produce both early and late so the corn patch was tried.
Bok choy and choy sum have been growing here at home in an area that receives afternoon shade. The choy sum has been pretty much harvested with the bok choy just about ready to cut. Lettuce in with them has not really grown at all. More small choy sum and bok choy were set out yesterday in the distant garden but they are in full sun -- we will see if they can take that exposure. There was some cilantro to go in with them since seed did not germinate among the corn plants.
Steve
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pepperhead212
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I grow rattlesnake pole beans, too, and they are very good as far as not getting stringy early on, and they have a really good flavor. They vary, as far as color, some darker than others, and the seeds vary, some also darker. And late in the season they can be saved for drying, though I never have enough of any for that. And they do loose most of their color when cooked - just turn green. And these are one of the more heat resistant varieties I've grown, besides the long beans. Most others stop producing in the heat of the summer, and start again, once the temps drop.
Here are those Rattlesnake Beans, showing the lighter and darker beans on the same plant.
Rattlesnake beans, 3 different colors on the same vine. by pepperhead212, on Flickr
Here are those Rattlesnake Beans, showing the lighter and darker beans on the same plant.
Rattlesnake beans, 3 different colors on the same vine. by pepperhead212, on FlickrThat is why I bought them. I need to grow heat resistant beans in summer. Yard long beans are also reliable. Some pole beans do ok, but I have problems with the birds eating the vines and the beans. The haricot vert beans don't do as well in the heat. I like Provider the best, it has pretty good heat tolerance. but I have not had temperatures over 85 degrees which is the point where their heat tolerance will be put to the test. Provider is the best bush bean for production and disease resistance. Contender has nematode resistance, so it is one of the crops I can grow where I do have nematodes. Maxibel works in the tower, but it does not produce as well once it gets hot.
There are no Japanese beetles here. Chinese rose beetles will riddle holes in beans, roses and strawberries. It is the reason why I put some of the strawberries in a container so I could get a tree bag on it. A strong light will deter them. A Japanese beetle trap will trap them, Asian flower beetles and bees. So the floral lure needs to be taken out from dawn to dusk, to avoid capturing the bees.
I have only had stinkbugs because of the neighbors hibiscus hedge (and mealy bugs, ants, and leaf hoppers). They like tomatoes, and the cucurbits.
The biggest problems have always been the birds and ground mealy bugs. There are several flocks of birds. Java rice birds are nesting in my roof, I have to get a pest control company to come out and get rid of them. Society finches, riddle holes in kale and will strip the leaves to the veins. They are particularly fond of Lacinato kale. Mejiro will eat fruit, particularly if you have a good papaya, ( so will the bulbuls), Cardinals will open the bags and eat the tomatoes if they are not twist tied. Bulbuls will eat any kind of fruit, peppers, tomato, papaya, and they are particularly fond of orchid buds and leaves. Something just ate the buds off the vanda. They also will eat the bean tips, leaves and beans. It is why the Provider beans are in a container with a cage on it. Doves like to eat the seeds out of the seed starts, so I have to cover the pots when I start seeds with another tray. They are particularly fond of pepper seeds. They will also eat any other seeds around. Right now they are after basil. If I had sunflowers, those seeds would be gone too.
All the birds will eat sluggo, so I have changed to Sulfur bait.
There is a new bird pest that came from a pair of pet birds that got away on Kauai and is now in my neighborhood. The rose ringed parakeet. They travel in flocks of hundreds. I have not had them in my yard, probably because these other birds are so territorial, but one of my neighbors said they have seen how destructive those birds are. They are a problem for farmers because they can destroy a fruit tree crop in a weekend. They don't eat all the fruit, but they will peck out all the fruit on a tree.
The birds ate the corn and bean seeds and seedlings I planted earlier which is why I had to put up bird netting on the main garden.
There is a stray cat coming through my yard regularly and it has actually kept the birds at bay. It is also giving my cats fleas, so I have to treat my cats every month.
The only birds that don't cause much damage are the cattle egret (although it will eat geckos), and the mynahs ( they like worms, insects, geckos, and fruit, but there is only one pair that does not come around that often). The Sharma, also only comes around once in a while.
All of these birds are alien species and all of them except for the cattle egret were kept as pets and were released. Except for cats, they have no natural predators. Oh, I forgot, the feral chickens will also eat everything in sight, but they have not come back for a while.
I have only had stinkbugs because of the neighbors hibiscus hedge (and mealy bugs, ants, and leaf hoppers). They like tomatoes, and the cucurbits.
The biggest problems have always been the birds and ground mealy bugs. There are several flocks of birds. Java rice birds are nesting in my roof, I have to get a pest control company to come out and get rid of them. Society finches, riddle holes in kale and will strip the leaves to the veins. They are particularly fond of Lacinato kale. Mejiro will eat fruit, particularly if you have a good papaya, ( so will the bulbuls), Cardinals will open the bags and eat the tomatoes if they are not twist tied. Bulbuls will eat any kind of fruit, peppers, tomato, papaya, and they are particularly fond of orchid buds and leaves. Something just ate the buds off the vanda. They also will eat the bean tips, leaves and beans. It is why the Provider beans are in a container with a cage on it. Doves like to eat the seeds out of the seed starts, so I have to cover the pots when I start seeds with another tray. They are particularly fond of pepper seeds. They will also eat any other seeds around. Right now they are after basil. If I had sunflowers, those seeds would be gone too.
All the birds will eat sluggo, so I have changed to Sulfur bait.
There is a new bird pest that came from a pair of pet birds that got away on Kauai and is now in my neighborhood. The rose ringed parakeet. They travel in flocks of hundreds. I have not had them in my yard, probably because these other birds are so territorial, but one of my neighbors said they have seen how destructive those birds are. They are a problem for farmers because they can destroy a fruit tree crop in a weekend. They don't eat all the fruit, but they will peck out all the fruit on a tree.
The birds ate the corn and bean seeds and seedlings I planted earlier which is why I had to put up bird netting on the main garden.
There is a stray cat coming through my yard regularly and it has actually kept the birds at bay. It is also giving my cats fleas, so I have to treat my cats every month.
The only birds that don't cause much damage are the cattle egret (although it will eat geckos), and the mynahs ( they like worms, insects, geckos, and fruit, but there is only one pair that does not come around that often). The Sharma, also only comes around once in a while.
All of these birds are alien species and all of them except for the cattle egret were kept as pets and were released. Except for cats, they have no natural predators. Oh, I forgot, the feral chickens will also eat everything in sight, but they have not come back for a while.
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applestar
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Wow. That is a lot of pests to contend with. It’s surprising to me that so many are winged/feathered kinds since I view most of the birds as helpful and only catbirds and robins as a problem for berries that I have to plan protection for.
That said, they are welcome to most of the mulberries and some of the blackberries and elderberries which I had originally planted as part of the wildlife/wild bird habitat scheme.
When I see Cardinals in the tomatoes, they are looking for hornworms, cutworms, and other tomato pests. A few days ago, a pair of Blue Jays landed in the Spiral Garden and proceeded to run down and gobble up something on the ground. I couldn’t see exactly what but from the way they were seemingly disturbing, making mini-dashes, picking up and gobbling, I think bug that would fit would be crickets (or spiders, but crickets are more likely for these bigger sized birds).
Do you have any seasonal relief? Here, there are resident local birds vs. migrant birds that are either only passing through or stay for the warm or cold season — and they switch out.
Also, we get the summer pest bugs that only arrive with the hottest days/weeks and are killed off with the frost/freeze (6 to 7 months of the year) or are in winter hibernation as adults, nymphs or eggs. There are some pests that are more prevalent depending on mildness of the winter prior to the season or on frequency of tropical storms moving through from the southwest (I’m convinced the pests are transported by the storm system).
That’s why planting a fall garden can be a challenge because late summer is when the worst of the hot weather/tropical pests are most abundant.
I’ve learned that insect mesh protection is essential since predators are not enough. Plus with the mesh in place. I can spray/treat inside without worrying about killing the predators. And the predators can then be confident that the Garden Patrol predators are concentrating on the uncovered, open parts of the garden. I can ALSO opt to introduce appropriate predators INSIDE the mesh protection where they will stay and enjoy the all you can eat buffet
I think my Garden Patrol natural eco system also responds to the pest pressure and changes with the invading pest profile — predators gather and breed in the garden so that there are more of the predators handling the pests next season, after a winter hiatus.
That said, they are welcome to most of the mulberries and some of the blackberries and elderberries which I had originally planted as part of the wildlife/wild bird habitat scheme.
When I see Cardinals in the tomatoes, they are looking for hornworms, cutworms, and other tomato pests. A few days ago, a pair of Blue Jays landed in the Spiral Garden and proceeded to run down and gobble up something on the ground. I couldn’t see exactly what but from the way they were seemingly disturbing, making mini-dashes, picking up and gobbling, I think bug that would fit would be crickets (or spiders, but crickets are more likely for these bigger sized birds).
Do you have any seasonal relief? Here, there are resident local birds vs. migrant birds that are either only passing through or stay for the warm or cold season — and they switch out.
Also, we get the summer pest bugs that only arrive with the hottest days/weeks and are killed off with the frost/freeze (6 to 7 months of the year) or are in winter hibernation as adults, nymphs or eggs. There are some pests that are more prevalent depending on mildness of the winter prior to the season or on frequency of tropical storms moving through from the southwest (I’m convinced the pests are transported by the storm system).
That’s why planting a fall garden can be a challenge because late summer is when the worst of the hot weather/tropical pests are most abundant.
I’ve learned that insect mesh protection is essential since predators are not enough. Plus with the mesh in place. I can spray/treat inside without worrying about killing the predators. And the predators can then be confident that the Garden Patrol predators are concentrating on the uncovered, open parts of the garden. I can ALSO opt to introduce appropriate predators INSIDE the mesh protection where they will stay and enjoy the all you can eat buffet
I think my Garden Patrol natural eco system also responds to the pest pressure and changes with the invading pest profile — predators gather and breed in the garden so that there are more of the predators handling the pests next season, after a winter hiatus.
Most of your birds are native to North America, so they have predators like hawks, and eagles. We have no hawks, which is why the cats are a danger to native birds because they build nests on the ground, but can't control pests like the rose ringed parakeet because they roost in trees and will also nest in attic spaces.
Mynahs are plus minus, they like to eat fruit, but also eat insects and pests. Mynahs lurking on Bermuda lawns are usually there looking for army worms.
The cattle egret was imported by the plantations because they used to burn the cane fields to harvest it. When they did that all the rats would flood into neighborhoods nearby. The plantations are gone, but the cattle egret will follow lawn mowers or alight on freshly mowed lawns looking for bugs.
My mom's neighborhood was across the road from one of Oahu Sugar's fields. Whenever they burn cane, you cannot hang out laundry because of the ash in the air, and the rat population would swell. I had always kept cats, so at those times, my cat would refuse to eat and she would rather catch rats. Some of those rats were almost as big as she was. I would get presents left on my slippers a lot. I also had a dog, who liked to chew my slippers and the house, and another dog, before that was taught by the cats to catch mice. In that neighborhood there was at least one or two cats on every street.
We do have a lot of pests and no natural predators or winters to keep them in check. That is one of the reasons why the agricultural restrictions are so strict. Once a pest gets here, it is almost impossible to eradicate because if they don't have predators already here, and they become established, they are here to stay.
The HDOA is understaffed, most of their efforts are concentrated on keeping things from coming in and they will try to work on small populations, but once they get bigger, like the little fire ant, rose ringed parakeet, and coconut rhinoceros beetle, and coqui frogs (Big Island), they don't have the resources to control them. Agricultural pests like the erythrina gall wasp and the avocado lace bug, never had a chance to be controlled.
The state is also very slow in importing predators. They have a bad history, of importing predators, that turned out to be even bigger pests. The famous one that they have never lived down was importing mongoose to control rats. Well, rats are primarily nocturnal and raided the chicken eggs at night. Mongoose are diurnal, and made a deal with the rats for the mongoose to raid the chicken eggs in the daytime.
Mongoose, may have a saving grace, we have always been concerned with snakes and a few have been found brought in illegally, most have been found dead, a few live ones were turned in, but the brown tree snake has been a concern for years because they can come in on cargo, and planes from Guam. Guam's bird population was devastated by the brown tree snake. The military are the usual culprits, since the state cannot inspect their cargo. The military has their own beagles checking military cargo and the airport routinely checks cargo and the wheel wells of the airplanes coming in from Guam. Dead snakes have been found. There is also fencing around the airport and the airport has a lot of mongoose. In India, mongoose usually fight with snakes. I knew someone who worked for the military. They have to keep the dogs trained to hunt for snakes. They only have a dead snake to use. A dead snake does not smell the same as a live one, so they tried to get a permit to bring in a live sterile male snake for training purposes. The state refused, because it might reproduce. (Oxymoron here?!).
The state will also not allow any beneficial insects to be imported without a permit which is very hard to get. Those insects do exist here already, but if you want to boost the population in your garden, you can't easily do that.
Most of the native birds don't live in urban areas and their native habitat is under siege from development and and invasion of non native plants, pigs, cats, and diseases. Most of the native birds are already on the vulnerable or endangered lists. Some of the native animals are host specific and their populations are interdependent. The decline of native species that the animals depends on, in turn leads to decline of the animals as well.
Mynahs are plus minus, they like to eat fruit, but also eat insects and pests. Mynahs lurking on Bermuda lawns are usually there looking for army worms.
The cattle egret was imported by the plantations because they used to burn the cane fields to harvest it. When they did that all the rats would flood into neighborhoods nearby. The plantations are gone, but the cattle egret will follow lawn mowers or alight on freshly mowed lawns looking for bugs.
My mom's neighborhood was across the road from one of Oahu Sugar's fields. Whenever they burn cane, you cannot hang out laundry because of the ash in the air, and the rat population would swell. I had always kept cats, so at those times, my cat would refuse to eat and she would rather catch rats. Some of those rats were almost as big as she was. I would get presents left on my slippers a lot. I also had a dog, who liked to chew my slippers and the house, and another dog, before that was taught by the cats to catch mice. In that neighborhood there was at least one or two cats on every street.
We do have a lot of pests and no natural predators or winters to keep them in check. That is one of the reasons why the agricultural restrictions are so strict. Once a pest gets here, it is almost impossible to eradicate because if they don't have predators already here, and they become established, they are here to stay.
The HDOA is understaffed, most of their efforts are concentrated on keeping things from coming in and they will try to work on small populations, but once they get bigger, like the little fire ant, rose ringed parakeet, and coconut rhinoceros beetle, and coqui frogs (Big Island), they don't have the resources to control them. Agricultural pests like the erythrina gall wasp and the avocado lace bug, never had a chance to be controlled.
The state is also very slow in importing predators. They have a bad history, of importing predators, that turned out to be even bigger pests. The famous one that they have never lived down was importing mongoose to control rats. Well, rats are primarily nocturnal and raided the chicken eggs at night. Mongoose are diurnal, and made a deal with the rats for the mongoose to raid the chicken eggs in the daytime.
Mongoose, may have a saving grace, we have always been concerned with snakes and a few have been found brought in illegally, most have been found dead, a few live ones were turned in, but the brown tree snake has been a concern for years because they can come in on cargo, and planes from Guam. Guam's bird population was devastated by the brown tree snake. The military are the usual culprits, since the state cannot inspect their cargo. The military has their own beagles checking military cargo and the airport routinely checks cargo and the wheel wells of the airplanes coming in from Guam. Dead snakes have been found. There is also fencing around the airport and the airport has a lot of mongoose. In India, mongoose usually fight with snakes. I knew someone who worked for the military. They have to keep the dogs trained to hunt for snakes. They only have a dead snake to use. A dead snake does not smell the same as a live one, so they tried to get a permit to bring in a live sterile male snake for training purposes. The state refused, because it might reproduce. (Oxymoron here?!).
The state will also not allow any beneficial insects to be imported without a permit which is very hard to get. Those insects do exist here already, but if you want to boost the population in your garden, you can't easily do that.
Most of the native birds don't live in urban areas and their native habitat is under siege from development and and invasion of non native plants, pigs, cats, and diseases. Most of the native birds are already on the vulnerable or endangered lists. Some of the native animals are host specific and their populations are interdependent. The decline of native species that the animals depends on, in turn leads to decline of the animals as well.
My Rattlesnake beans look the same on the vine and then turn green when cooked. Young tender beans indeed are string free and very good. Older beans can be shelled. I save seed each year and replant. No telling how long that process has been.
My tomatoes and corn are coming along. I should have a couple of good months once I get thru August. October will bring some cool temps but it is odd to get a killing freeze. Here's hoping. Sorry some of the pictures are sideways. I could not find a rotate option after loading
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applestar
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I’ve been studying fall potatoes — planting potatoes once worst of the heat is over and trying to grow a crop.
A long time ago, I posted about an article written by a Pennsylvania master gardener about his method for overwintering late fall planted potato crop under deep mulch for harvesting with spring peas.
I’ve been keeping an eye on Gary350’s trials, and his successes are similar to the Pa. MG’s
After trying to keep root crops alive through the deep freeze in various ways, I don’t think overwintering is going to work in my area.
I’ve been watching Japanese gardening videos for the past three seasons describing planting in late summer for late November harvest…. So needs to be early maturing varieties.
This requires some adjustment because in my area, ground starts to freeze around late November and first average frost arrives as early as mid-October… but lately, weather can warm up even after killing frost and ground may not freeze solid until somewhat later.
So I’m ready to try throwing everything I can at them to keep the soil/roots warm and protect from foliage killing temperatures with tunnels, to see if it might be possible to grow a fall crop of potatoes.
There was another video posted today — summarizing what I’ve learned so far:
1. Good drainage. Advance soil prep — not too much nitrogen — composted cow manure and a little bit of composted chicken manure. Form raised wide row with drainage moat/trench all around — water well, cover with black plastic mulch and wait for cooler weather to plant
2. Choose southern regionally cultivated varieties. Pre-sprout WHOLE seed potatoes — don’t cut up (if cut, must dry cut surface very well to succeed). Keep out of direct sun in in cloth or paper lined basket tray or cardboard, bright light, well ventilated location not to exceed 30°C/86°F. Generally keep seed potatoes dry but mist sprouts with water once sprouts begin to grow so they don’t dry out.
3. Plant when sprouted to about 1cm and expected daytime high temp does not exceed 30°C/86°F for the next week.
3. Don’t use black plastic mulch over the planted potato bed at planting time. Use straw mulch to shade/keep down ground temp and control weeds, or try using aluminized silver shade cloth as ground mulch.
4. Key to successful Fall potato cultivation is to get the upper foliage growing quickly and then, once cooler weather arrives, keep them in warm but well ventilated conditions to prevent foliage diseases. Over fertilizing will invite pests.
5. Black plastic mulch once sun’s rays become weaker, insect mesh tunnel to keep out pests and then surround with wind break, start to layer with floating cover and eventually vented poly.
…I think I probably should have tried to move up the schedule by a couple of weeks, and missed my optimum timing for this area , but I’ve started trying to pre-sprout the “seed” potatoes — can’t get actual certified seed potatoes in fall so I’ll go ahead and experiment with blemish-free organic potatoes from the store. No way to know their varieties, but I’ll try several and see what happens.
A long time ago, I posted about an article written by a Pennsylvania master gardener about his method for overwintering late fall planted potato crop under deep mulch for harvesting with spring peas.
I’ve been keeping an eye on Gary350’s trials, and his successes are similar to the Pa. MG’s
After trying to keep root crops alive through the deep freeze in various ways, I don’t think overwintering is going to work in my area.
I’ve been watching Japanese gardening videos for the past three seasons describing planting in late summer for late November harvest…. So needs to be early maturing varieties.
This requires some adjustment because in my area, ground starts to freeze around late November and first average frost arrives as early as mid-October… but lately, weather can warm up even after killing frost and ground may not freeze solid until somewhat later.
So I’m ready to try throwing everything I can at them to keep the soil/roots warm and protect from foliage killing temperatures with tunnels, to see if it might be possible to grow a fall crop of potatoes.
There was another video posted today — summarizing what I’ve learned so far:
1. Good drainage. Advance soil prep — not too much nitrogen — composted cow manure and a little bit of composted chicken manure. Form raised wide row with drainage moat/trench all around — water well, cover with black plastic mulch and wait for cooler weather to plant
2. Choose southern regionally cultivated varieties. Pre-sprout WHOLE seed potatoes — don’t cut up (if cut, must dry cut surface very well to succeed). Keep out of direct sun in in cloth or paper lined basket tray or cardboard, bright light, well ventilated location not to exceed 30°C/86°F. Generally keep seed potatoes dry but mist sprouts with water once sprouts begin to grow so they don’t dry out.
3. Plant when sprouted to about 1cm and expected daytime high temp does not exceed 30°C/86°F for the next week.
3. Don’t use black plastic mulch over the planted potato bed at planting time. Use straw mulch to shade/keep down ground temp and control weeds, or try using aluminized silver shade cloth as ground mulch.
4. Key to successful Fall potato cultivation is to get the upper foliage growing quickly and then, once cooler weather arrives, keep them in warm but well ventilated conditions to prevent foliage diseases. Over fertilizing will invite pests.
5. Black plastic mulch once sun’s rays become weaker, insect mesh tunnel to keep out pests and then surround with wind break, start to layer with floating cover and eventually vented poly.
…I think I probably should have tried to move up the schedule by a couple of weeks, and missed my optimum timing for this area , but I’ve started trying to pre-sprout the “seed” potatoes — can’t get actual certified seed potatoes in fall so I’ll go ahead and experiment with blemish-free organic potatoes from the store. No way to know their varieties, but I’ll try several and see what happens.
Have you measured the soil temperature in your tunnel in winter or the does the ground freeze in the tunnel too? This is does not happen here, but I'm just curious, because some places say that they can still grow winter hardy greens like kale and lettuce because they can tolerate a light frost. I wonder if the size of the tunnel matters since they have large tunnels, some of which are bigger than the footprint of my house.
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applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30551
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
I haven’t measured the ground temp, but air temp last winter inside the Sunflower Hoophouse went down to 9.5°F at lowest around Winter Solstice, then around 11.8°F in early February.
I’m prepared to measure the ground temperature this year, but, currently, my new remote thermometer with 2 cabled probes has been pre-empted to keep an eye on our aging refrigerator/freezer. Haha
The extra-high roof that is helping to moderate the high temp right now works against keeping the ground level temp warmer during the winter. I need to come up with better way to insulate than low tunnels layered with 3 poly and non-woven cloths — not enough light. Plus all the extra layers need to be actively managed since daytime high can get to be too much…, but I wasn’t able to get out there with any amount of frequency… and the entrance needs some kind of airlock vestibule, etc. etc.
Still working out ideas.
I’m prepared to measure the ground temperature this year, but, currently, my new remote thermometer with 2 cabled probes has been pre-empted to keep an eye on our aging refrigerator/freezer. Haha
The extra-high roof that is helping to moderate the high temp right now works against keeping the ground level temp warmer during the winter. I need to come up with better way to insulate than low tunnels layered with 3 poly and non-woven cloths — not enough light. Plus all the extra layers need to be actively managed since daytime high can get to be too much…, but I wasn’t able to get out there with any amount of frequency… and the entrance needs some kind of airlock vestibule, etc. etc.
Still working out ideas.