What information or strategies do you have for veggie growing in hot dry summers? Our weather is going way past previous norms. (Edited to add): AND the region is facing severe water shortage.
- What to grow/encourage (cultivated or wild!)
- How to help it beat the heat
- How much water does each plant really need & how best to provide it.
- Is it safe to withhold watering until you see wilt.
- All with frugality & practicality in mind!
My list of questions could get very long ....
In January I tested some cabbage & cauliflower seed. When it germinated, I couldn't bear to throw it away. I was dubious about transplanting it 'out of season' but did it anyway - and now those are almost the only plants doing well in my garden. That leads me to think about starting things 'far too early' in future, with whatever heat/light/protection is feasible.
I'd like to hear everyone's thoughts & advice - thanks.
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Vanisle_BC
- Greener Thumb
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applestar
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This is a pretty complicated subject…
I guess to start with, important element is to learn individual needs of the plants you want to grow.
Even referencing some of your questions, answer will most likely “it depends on the plant”
In terms of where to plant — it’s easier to plant where existing conditions most closely match the plant’s needs, rather than changing the conditions so you can plant something where YOU want to plant it.
So exploring your property and finding microclimates and observing year-round sun exposure, etc. is a very important step.
Then, finding perennial crops that are tolerant of the conditions you have in the garden….
Extra-deep rooted asparagus 10~15 feet total depth, would certainly be considered drought tolerant, if you have the necessary well drained location such as on a slope.
Fruit trees are great once established.
Cane fruits like raspberries and black berries will grow by themselves (and take over) but you will need to figure out what to do about wildlife.
I adopted the permaculture practice to plant on raised/mounded wide beds with contoured swale/paths to help irrigate while keeping the plants from drowning. This has worked well and I do this with almost all of my vegetable garden beds of various shapes.
Some plants that can tolerate/prefer it are planted in “rain garden” type concept beds.
I am also exploring season extending structures and protective covers.
I find that the season here is just a tad too short, with deep freeze that are too cold in winter and too-brief fall and spring season that make successful cool season crop a chancy endeavor. But unseasonable cool periods can delay growth and maturation of summer crops.
Warmer spring and fall heatwaves mean pests linger longer, and summer heatwaves driven by weather systems from the south bring rare/unusual pests more frequently, so insect mesh low tunnels and hoophouses have become part of my gardening style.
I guess to start with, important element is to learn individual needs of the plants you want to grow.
Even referencing some of your questions, answer will most likely “it depends on the plant”
In terms of where to plant — it’s easier to plant where existing conditions most closely match the plant’s needs, rather than changing the conditions so you can plant something where YOU want to plant it.
So exploring your property and finding microclimates and observing year-round sun exposure, etc. is a very important step.
Then, finding perennial crops that are tolerant of the conditions you have in the garden….
Extra-deep rooted asparagus 10~15 feet total depth, would certainly be considered drought tolerant, if you have the necessary well drained location such as on a slope.
Fruit trees are great once established.
Cane fruits like raspberries and black berries will grow by themselves (and take over) but you will need to figure out what to do about wildlife.
I adopted the permaculture practice to plant on raised/mounded wide beds with contoured swale/paths to help irrigate while keeping the plants from drowning. This has worked well and I do this with almost all of my vegetable garden beds of various shapes.
Some plants that can tolerate/prefer it are planted in “rain garden” type concept beds.
I am also exploring season extending structures and protective covers.
I find that the season here is just a tad too short, with deep freeze that are too cold in winter and too-brief fall and spring season that make successful cool season crop a chancy endeavor. But unseasonable cool periods can delay growth and maturation of summer crops.
Warmer spring and fall heatwaves mean pests linger longer, and summer heatwaves driven by weather systems from the south bring rare/unusual pests more frequently, so insect mesh low tunnels and hoophouses have become part of my gardening style.
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applestar
- Mod
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- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
I recently watched an interesting related video (it’s in Japanese and auto translated is iffy tho)
Initially on whiteboard, he’s pointing out the root system structures (shallow rooted vs. deep water-seeking roots) and native climate for Tomatoes, Cucumbers, and Eggplants, and why their needs for the amount of water per 3 days are different.
…I found out from watching this video that I was waiting too long and letting the cucumbers dry out too much between watering because I’m more familiar with drought tolerance of tomatoes.
Initially on whiteboard, he’s pointing out the root system structures (shallow rooted vs. deep water-seeking roots) and native climate for Tomatoes, Cucumbers, and Eggplants, and why their needs for the amount of water per 3 days are different.
…I found out from watching this video that I was waiting too long and letting the cucumbers dry out too much between watering because I’m more familiar with drought tolerance of tomatoes.
1. Variety selection. For summer, I select cultivars for heat and disease resistance. I grow different varieties for cooler months.
2. If you are growing in containers, you can tweak your mix so that you have more water holding components, peat moss or compost so the mix dries out slower. Double potting and painting containers white also helps to keep roots cool.
3, Mass containers, so that they increase humidity around the pots and the outer pots will help insulate the inner pots from the heat. Larger pots dry out slower.
4. Mulch to retain moisture.
5. Adjust your watering, smaller containers, need more water than larger ones and containers will need more water in the summer than in the cooler months. You may have to water twice a day in some cases.
6. Shade cloth. Use hoops or tent frames covered with shade cloth to decrease the intensity of very hot sun so it won't burn sensitive plants and shading helps. Misting system can be added on a tent frame to help with cooling and providing additional humidity.
7. Locate sensitive plants to the east side of the house or in the shadow of trees where they can benefit from morning sun and afternoon shade.
8. During the hottest months June-August. Only heat tolerant plants would be started, I would harvest out plants and amend and solarize the soil in the hottest months to prepare for fall planting. Cover barren ground with clear plastic to solarize or tarps to keep weeds from taking over. Fewer plants means less to water and my water bill is already too high and I pay sewer rates for water that does in the garden not the sewer.
9. Make sure you dress for the sun: Sunscreen, hat, long sleeves (cool shirt), have cold water available. Work in the garden in the morning before 10 a.m., or in the afternoon after 2:30 p.m. Between times you can do activities that you can work on in the shade. I bring my pots into the lanai to work on them, repot, weed, pot up, and then take them out afterwards rather than work on them in the sun. I have a tilting beach umbrella. If I work on a section for awhile, it is worth while setting up the umbrella in the stand to provide shade. If I am not going to be in one place that long, I wait for the area to be shaded by the trees or the house. The time varies depending on the season.
2. If you are growing in containers, you can tweak your mix so that you have more water holding components, peat moss or compost so the mix dries out slower. Double potting and painting containers white also helps to keep roots cool.
3, Mass containers, so that they increase humidity around the pots and the outer pots will help insulate the inner pots from the heat. Larger pots dry out slower.
4. Mulch to retain moisture.
5. Adjust your watering, smaller containers, need more water than larger ones and containers will need more water in the summer than in the cooler months. You may have to water twice a day in some cases.
6. Shade cloth. Use hoops or tent frames covered with shade cloth to decrease the intensity of very hot sun so it won't burn sensitive plants and shading helps. Misting system can be added on a tent frame to help with cooling and providing additional humidity.
7. Locate sensitive plants to the east side of the house or in the shadow of trees where they can benefit from morning sun and afternoon shade.
8. During the hottest months June-August. Only heat tolerant plants would be started, I would harvest out plants and amend and solarize the soil in the hottest months to prepare for fall planting. Cover barren ground with clear plastic to solarize or tarps to keep weeds from taking over. Fewer plants means less to water and my water bill is already too high and I pay sewer rates for water that does in the garden not the sewer.
9. Make sure you dress for the sun: Sunscreen, hat, long sleeves (cool shirt), have cold water available. Work in the garden in the morning before 10 a.m., or in the afternoon after 2:30 p.m. Between times you can do activities that you can work on in the shade. I bring my pots into the lanai to work on them, repot, weed, pot up, and then take them out afterwards rather than work on them in the sun. I have a tilting beach umbrella. If I work on a section for awhile, it is worth while setting up the umbrella in the stand to provide shade. If I am not going to be in one place that long, I wait for the area to be shaded by the trees or the house. The time varies depending on the season.