You are in zone 8. Your temperatures are ok for tomatoes. However, if your day temps are over 85, you cannot grow most of Applestars tomatoes. I cannot grow them, I tried coyote, but it is not heat tolerant. As Rainbow said environmental stress will cause blossom drop and stressed plants will fail to set fruit just to protect themselves.
SIP containers help with water stress and BER. A five gallon reservoir worked well for me and it kept the tomatoes from wilting in midday. I also plant tomatoes in 18 gallon pots with plastic mulch. The pots are shaded by taller plants (in summer it is corn on the western side, so it helps the pots and roots stay cooler.
Your choice of variety will matter. Heat resistant tomatoes are a must. Heatmaster, Sunchaser, Solar Flare, Arkansas Traveller, Better Boy, Big Beef, Early Girl, New Big Dwarf, Heatwave II, Roma, San Marzano, Homestead, Super Sioux, Quarter Century (aka Matchless), green zebra, Celebrity, Sunmaster, Solar Flare, Pruden's Purple, Cherokee Purple, Kewalo, and Creole. Most of the cherry tomatoes will do well like sun cherry, gardener's delight, red current, Juliet, Fourth of July, sungold (it cracks), sweet 100 or sweet million, and grape. Texas Wild, Nichol's and Punta Banda tomatoes were suggested especially for Texas. You do get snow so you will need to probably start the tomatoes indoors since most of these tomatoes need 80 days. Early Girl was a surprise, it is 50+ days so it can set fruit early. It does stop producing in the heat, but when the weather cools it produces again. This may not work for you, because of your location. Snow is never and issue and technically things that you consider tender annuals can live a year or more here. Tomatoes could technically live more than a year here if it were not for all the diseases.
I have grown Brandywine successfully, even though I was told it would not pollinate well because of pollen clumping in the heat.
It actually is something to try. In Pennsylvania where it grows it can get over 100 degrees in summer. Humidity was not a problem for me. The tomato was the best tasting, but required the most babying since it has very little disease resistance. I had to grow it in a SIP 18 inches off the ground. I also had to fungicide it weekly because it has very little resistance to fungal diseases and rugose leaves don't help. Brandywine is a large tomato, so it is not as productive as plants with smaller fruit. I have a lot of humidity which makes it seem hotter than it is the temperature is 89-91 degrees in summer with a few days in August around 100 degrees (if I am in Waipahu surrounded by concrete and with Kona weather.
A lot of times, something has to be given up for disease or heat tolerance. It might be tougher skins or flavor. You will need to try out some of the tomatoes to see if you like how they taste. Kewalo, tastes ok and has good disease and heat resistance to fungal diseases but like most of the UH seeds, the skins are tough. Creole from Louisiana, is also a good tomato with good heat resistance. Florida has developed many heat resistant tomatoes, I had trouble growing them because while they are heat resistant, they did not have the right disease resistance to grow well for me. Heatwave is an older heat resistant variety that will set fruit even in the high 80's. It is not a flavor winner, but it is ok for me. It is better than no tomatoes at all. The cherry tomatoes are the sturdiest as they are prolific (good because the birds get most of the larger tomatoes), disease and heat resistant. Outdoors, tomatoes are self pollinating and are wind pollinated. Failure to set is usually from heat or drought stress.
Shading can help with the heat stress. Planting tomatoes in summer on the east side is better than a west or south face. My yard is small. My house would shade the plants in the front yard in the afternoon. Tomatoes are planted in 18 gallon pots and I only need to water them once a day. Corn is planted in summer on the west side of the tomatoes. The taller plants keep the pots cooler, while the tops of the tomatoes are still in the sun. I mulch the pots with the potting soil bags to hold in moisture and limit splashing. It is better not to try to grow anything that is not heat resistant in July-August. Just solarize the beds instead.
I don't have any of the critters you have. I don't even have mongoose. I do have mice, but they have not been a big problem in the garden. The mice like to eat the slug bait. Asian flower beetles go after over ripe fruit. The biggest pest I have are the birds and I have to get to things before they do and put up barriers. You may need to go with fencing around the garden and it would have to be tall to keep anything from jumping over. I would probably build a kennel and totally cage it. It would also be easier to put up shade cloth over the top. For me it is practical because my garden is 8x16 ft. My back yard has a depth of 15-30 ft and is 54 ft wide. Most of my plants are actually in containers. I only plant things in the veggie garden that need to be massed like corn, okra, and I usually plant herbs and a few cut and come again plants like komatsuna, perpetual spinach, chard, cutting celery, and Asian greens. I have a permanent trellis for things like tomatoes which I grow in 18 gallon pots. Citrus trees, ginger, most of the peppers, eggplant, and taro are in pots. I have a few escapees I have to deal with. I can't plant obvious veggies in the front yard because of HOA restrictions. I can plant edibles they don't know about like roses, daylilies, garlic chives, strawberries, taro, Jaboticaba, and nasturtiums. I don't plant most of them for eating, I plant them mostly because I know they are technically edible and the HOA are idiots.
https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/veg ... em-solver/
https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/veg ... HT-043.pdf
https://agrilifeextension.tamu.edu/brow ... /tomatoes/
https://bonnieplants.com/gardening/how- ... t-weather/
Happy gardening in Hawaii. Gardens are where people grow.