I don't use fish emulsion often. The neighbors complain about the smell if I use it too often. It is a good source of fast organic nitrogen, and I do use it especially when I suspect a nutritional issue but I cannot quite figure it out exactly what it is. Fish emulsion is a complete organic fertilizer. I used blood meal once, I will never do that again after I ended up inhaling it. Kelp is actually not readily available here. I found it years ago but not recently. I have tried EM1 in an attempt to improve the nitrogen fixing of the cowpeas, but EM1 costs about $20 for 16 oz. I also tried crumbles. I did not see a lot of difference with the crumbles. I still got short corn with only organic inputs. I admit, I did not do the weekly supplementation, though. I have brewed AACT and non aerated compost tea. It does improve plant health, but my dog also liked to drink it out of the bucket. It was a bit of work for a 5 gallon bucket that did not go that far in the garden. I prefer to make my tea using vermicompost.
I have had some better luck with bokashi, but it takes time to make it. Bokashi does not get bigger plants or yields but does support the soil microbiota and that in turn seem to keep the plants healthier.
I have seen some improvements in soil health and growth with gro power. It is just hard to find gro power now. Gro power is
mostly humus based.
https://www.gropower.com/home_garden/home_faq.htm
I admit I am an impatient gardener. I also don't like to haul a lot of poundage around, it is too hard on my already aching back.
I have tried different organics and have made some mistakes with it. The first compost piles I made were not balanced and were mostly greens with very little carbon. They were stinky, slimy and since I composted tropical weeds, they grew a lot of weeds unless I bag composted them first. Compost piles attract centipedes, ants, spiders, and pill bugs. Probably other stuff as well and it would be too close to my house no matter where it is in my yard. Trench composting is easy, fast and does not take up a lot of space so it was something I was willing to do when I had enough inputs for it. It also was a way to get rid of some trimmed leaves. There are not many deciduous trees in the tropics. The trees that do drop leaves annually are aliens from temperate climates. I don't compost grass clippings since I leave the clippings on the grass and my grass has some nasty weeds. I can only compost material that is not diseased since I would not be hot composting.
I did try to go totally organic, but after one season of short corn, it really was not worth it for me. I used compost and organic fertilizers, but I did not supplement with compost tea or fish emulsion. Although, I have been growing in the same space for many years, and the garden has been planted intensively, it was a disappointing result. It is not like I started with a nutrient poor soil to start with. I probably should have planted a legume instead in the first season instead of a nitrogen hog like corn, but I can't eat that many beans ( I really don't like beans much anyway). I did not supplement and that aggravated the nitrogen problem since nitrogen is the hardest thing to supply organically. Maybe if I could have stuck it out a couple of years and planted less nitrogen demanding plants and supplemented the nitrogen weekly, I could have successfully transitioned to organic. It is not practical to do no till. Red clay gets solid fast without the fluffing with the compost and I have a lot of weeds to deal with as well. Tilling kills more soil microbes than probably anything else.
In the end, I chose to do a combination that works for me. I add about 4 inches of compost and till in residues after each crop. I do not need to rototill, a shovel works fine now that the garden has been amended heavily over the years. I still am foolish enough to work soil too wet and get the clod problem. I try to use different composts and use a lot less Big R since it is primarily composted sawdust, which is great carbon but dries really fast and a single source so not really a good deal for the garden. So much carbon eats up nitrogen, which is not a bad idea in my garden but would be problematic in a nitrogen poor environment.
I spent a year trying to get the nutsedge out of the garden, but now I get what I can and plant over it. Keeping the garden planted is actually the best way to keep the weeds from taking over. The nut sedge still grows but it needs light to do well.
I use newspaper mulch in the garden to keep the weeds down and cut up the soil bags and use it as a mulch in the large pots. It keeps down weeds and helps retain moisture. Plastic also reduces splashing on the tomatoes.
I usually use water for pest control, alcohol is second, and sulfur for fungal diseases. Thrips, I live with it. Snails and slugs are hand picked. I buy a ton of slug bait, and I still am losing that battle. I am looking for a few toads to that job, so far no takers. Unfortunately slug bait attracts rats and birds who eat it heartily and come back for more but it is better at killing toads and frogs than at killing slugs and snails. I practice cultural controls. I cut back the host plants, I am bad about picking up all the plumeria leaves, but the rust only affects plumeria. Thrips cannot be controlled since I really am not willing to give up the plumeria, Jasmine sambac, gardenia, roses, citrus, or orchids and even these are rarely treated with anything more than water. I do have a good garden patrol and for the most part the plants are productive and while there will always be some damage, it is not enough to do anything about it.
I do test my soil every three years. I only need nitrogen in all plots (for the last 8 years) and potassium in the acidic plot to improve root crops.
I use synthetic fertilizers with micros and low numbers (below 15) and slow nitrogen. I usually use citrus food for everything in a pot, but I do use 10-20-20 for some pots and specific plants on occasion. Sulfate of ammonia is my main fertilizer and all that is required. It is best done in divided doses and I need very little of it. I use a scavenger (Asian greens) after corn to scavenge leftover nutrients. Occasionally, I might use some manure and I can only use chicken manure for the orchids and for the acidic plot. Fish emulsion for suspected nutritional deficiencies. Synthetic fertilizers are more standardized and I don't have to haul all that poundage around. I don't use urea because, it only comes in 50 lb bags, and is too concentrated and very easy to over apply. I need to intensively plant my garden to make the best use of the space. I don't row plant, except for corn and I interplant heavily. It would be hard to deliver sufficient nitrogen organically and I don't want to have to do it every week.
I do wonder about this being one factor: Pine trees block the morning sun from my garden. Does anyone else have this problem? 
I have attached photos of my garden with times of the sunlight. The sun starts hitting my garden mid-morning when the sun rises over the pines and by 6 or after, the evening sun is blocked by my house. I cannot move my garden elsewhere- my yard slopes and heavy rains causes little rivers and huge puddles in places.
I think they just want to take advantage of people who want organic stuff. 
Also, when I built the NKG, I was equally inspired by the mandala garden design and the permaculture concept of increasing "edges" to maximize space -- so the idea was to be able to walk around and have access from the INSIDE EDGE of the bed as well as the OUTSIDE EDGE.
This Smith & Hawken composter was one of the early designs built to the standard minimum compost pile size specs rather than the newer reduced size (and therefore inefficient thermal mass) design plastic bins. So it really feels like it's taking up a good chunk of space.
). I'll layer that with wind blown pile of leaves from along the back fence, and by the time I finish cleaning the patio of all debris and weeds, adding some grass clippings and kitchen scraps along the way, the bin should be filled and ready to cook.
