Vanisle_BC
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Location: Port Alberni, B.C. Canada, Zone 7 (+?)

Very spotty growth pattern in plantings

I grow mostly heritage or open-pollinated vegetables.

In many cases the results of my seedings are non-uniform to say the least. I don't understand why I so often get a patchwork of highly variable vigour, from maybe a couple of sturdy specimens through a range of much lesser ones right down to puny non-viables. This happens especially with direct-seeding but to a lesser extent with transplants as well. Sometimes a group will fade from large to small almost evenly from one side, or one row, to the other.

I envy people who can post photos with uniform ranks of pretty, upstanding young plants. What's MY problem and what can I do about it, aside from maybe switching to hybrid varieties?

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applestar
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Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)

Hmm I don’t know... I only grow heirlooms and op’s for the most part as well. I only occasionally grow greens that are hybrids. Or accidentally purchased on a whim cucumber, squash..... It’s true I’m struck by how hybrid seeds all sprout at the same time and grow at the same rate.

I also intentionally grow my crop in different beds to take advantage of microclimates around the garden, and in observing/analyzing, I’ve become more familiar with little differences among them, and even one side of the bed vs the other due to sun/shade, moisture, tree roots, etc. I don’t till so each part of the bed has its own biosphere unless the bed was in Potato or sweet potato rotation and the soil in the bed got thoroughly dug up and blended.

I’m USED to same batch of seeds and plants NOT growing up together, and think of it as an advantage because I don’t have overwhelming harvest at the same time....

Do you think there might be differences within the row and from one row to the other?

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PraticalGardener
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Location: Potomac Highlands region, West Virginia, USA (Zone 6a?)

I tend to give the smaller individual corn or potato plants a more diligent weeding, mulch, and/or extra water; whatever is needed at the time. When I tried this, sometimes the plants would catch up in growth (usually the potato plants), but sometimes they don't. My experiences may be influenced by how I usually garden though; which is in rows and only watered occasionally in summer.

The corn plants on the outside rows, or at the sunnier ends of the rows, tend to grow more vigorously. I've always assumed it was normal since they received the most sunlight, due to their location.

Vanisle_BC
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Location: Port Alberni, B.C. Canada, Zone 7 (+?)

applestar wrote:Hmm I don’t know... I’m USED to same batch of seeds and plants NOT growing up together, and think of it as an advantage because I don’t have overwhelming harvest at the same time....
Hah! Now didn't I read about that just the other day - Happiness isn't having what you want, it's wanting what you have.

Duh!

imafan26
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Location: Hawaii, zone 12a 587 ft elev.

I have a range of seedling sizes as well. Most of the seeds will germinate a few day from each other but occasionally, if I planted them deeper they take a few days longer. I also have a tree that needs pruning annually otherwise the seedling on that side of the garden always come up shorter because of the extra shade. This year, I did have a section of corn not come up. It turns out the birds ate the seeds and the seedlings and I had a sprinkler malfunction and someone tied it off, but did not fix it so no water = no plants.

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Gary350
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I have noticed when buying seeds some sellers have the seeds marked, 85% germination, or 90% or 60% etc. 60% is pretty bad. I have very good luck with Ebay seeds from, China, Thailand, Ireland, Vietnam 100% germination. I buy corn seeds from Farmers co-op they are not marked for germination percentage. This year about 70% of my corn came up, I replant the 30% and I still have seeds that do not come up. Today I notice the farmer up the road planted his corn and it appears he is not having a problem with 30% not growing, his crop is 6" tall and 100% perfect it was machine planted. That makes me wonder if my seed planting depth is uneven? Maybe I need to buy a seed planter for my corn & beans? Seed depth is very important, not deep enough soil is too dry and seeds never germinate, seeds too deep take longer to come up than seeds not so deep. My beans did the same thing I am guessing 10% never germinated. Sometimes it can be very frustrating last summer only 30% of my corn grew so I planted it again. This year corn on south side of my garden did not germinate well I think the trees to the south blocked the blowing rain soil was not wet enough for seeds to grow there. My south/east corner of garden holds water like a pond when soil is dry enough nothing wants to grow there. Farmer up the road has the same problem field has a low spot that fills up with water like a pond after soil is dry farmer plants and only 10% of the seeds in the low spot germinate? That makes me think standing water damages the soil nothing wants to grow there even after soil is dry.
Last edited by Gary350 on Thu May 31, 2018 9:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

imafan26
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Location: Hawaii, zone 12a 587 ft elev.

I think seed companies have to guarantee a certain percentage of germination as long as seeds are properly handled. I don't think it has to be 100%. I know that some seeds don't last very long. Cacao has to be germinated from a pod that is freshly picked, even a few days will be too long. Corn germination drops off precipitously and germination rates drop fast. Seeds germinate poorly by the third year. I do sometimes plant extra seeds when I plant in the ground. I do have problems with robbing birds and mice when I plant peppers and corn outside, so I have to cover the pepper seeds with a tray and put out mouse traps if they start to steal the seeds. The birds stole seeds and seedlings from the planting of corn in the pollinator garden so I have patchy plants. If I am germinating seeds to plant out, I usually germinate in community pots because I don't get 100% germination in individual pots anyway.



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