Its ramping down.
- KitchenGardener
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- Greener Thumb
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- Greener Thumb
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- Location: Gardening in western U.P. of MI. 46+ N. lat. elev 1540. zone 3; state bird: mosquito
Frost for me too at my higher elevation gardening spot Sept. 15 and 16. I was really surprised. Frost on windshields, roof, and birdbaths iced over. Looks like I will have short growing seasons here. I don't expect frost at my lower elevation gardening spot for another month, sometimes not til November 1st.
The squash leaves got nipped slightly, but tomorrow I am going to take all the squash anyway. Then I'll get areas ready for a cover crop! Tomatoes hanging on, but don't look very good.
This summer we had the hottest temp ever recorded in our town of 105. (for any date) Yet we had unusually cool spring with late frosts.
Happy birthday too James! Looks like possible snow clouds building over the mtns.
The squash leaves got nipped slightly, but tomorrow I am going to take all the squash anyway. Then I'll get areas ready for a cover crop! Tomatoes hanging on, but don't look very good.
This summer we had the hottest temp ever recorded in our town of 105. (for any date) Yet we had unusually cool spring with late frosts.
Happy birthday too James! Looks like possible snow clouds building over the mtns.
- jal_ut
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Haw, haw! Well I will spend some time cleaning up then run the tiller over the area. When the leaves come down, they will beKitchenGardener wrote:So then what, James? Do you get to go inside and sit by a fire until Spring comes?
raked and put out on the garden. Mow the lawn one last time. Find the snow shovel, and put the scarper on the tractor to move
snow.............. I used to spend some time hunting, but gave up the hunting a few years ago. Guess just bird watching now?
- jal_ut
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Its been an interesting season. My date for planting squash, corn and cukes is May 5. Usually that works. This year I planted as usual then on July 5 we had a killing frost, so starting over a month late. Some things like carrots did not want to germinate in the July heat. The squashes were late coming on and the vines got froze 6 of September, so not much in the squash department this year. Oh well, that's gardening, plant in good faith and hope. Take what you get.
- jal_ut
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The crooknecks and zucchini came on fast and I got plenty of those, Some of the pumpkins made a small fruit. The rest of the squash were pretty much a wash out. Oh well, there is always next year?
Its interesting that here at 5000 ft elevation, the so called 100 day varieties take 110 days here to mature. I have high mountains on both East and West sides so the sunshine hours are less than they would be in flatter country.
Its interesting that here at 5000 ft elevation, the so called 100 day varieties take 110 days here to mature. I have high mountains on both East and West sides so the sunshine hours are less than they would be in flatter country.
- rainbowgardener
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- jal_ut
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We usually get June, July and August frost free with maybe 5 or six days on both ends. Somewhere around 105 to 110 days frost free. People fuss around with hot caps, and row covers and starting indoors or in greenhouses for later transplanting.
That July 5 frost was a bit unusual. I have seen frost every month of the year here at this location though.
That July 5 frost was a bit unusual. I have seen frost every month of the year here at this location though.
I think I would feel right at home in your area.jal_ut wrote:We usually get June, July and August frost free with maybe 5 or six days on both ends. Somewhere around 105 to 110 days frost free. People fuss around with hot caps, and row covers and starting indoors or in greenhouses for later transplanting.
That July 5 frost was a bit unusual. I have seen frost every month of the year here at this location though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfXib9DJL0A
- jal_ut
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Walked through the garden this morning. There are some cucumbers still putting on fruit, the winter squash and pumpkins about ready, I picked the last of the corn a few days ago. Saw a few red tomatoes. Weird season, but we still got a harvest. We had a frost a while back that nipped things, but didn't totally kill the plants, so many of the cukes, squash and pumpkins still trying to make it.
Picked a handful of Lemon cukes and a couple of crookneck squash.
Picked a handful of Lemon cukes and a couple of crookneck squash.
James, it sounds like my garden! I must be 500 miles north and 3,000 feet lower in elevation. Yes, weird season - kind of extreme, at times. But, there was fair production ... I don't feel that I put in the resources and was, somehow, cheated.
Lemon cukes are good! They run a little late even with early planting and one year, we nearly missed a harvest.
Here's an odd question, DW gave a couple of nice zucchini to a neighbor. Her husband grows crookneck every year in the 10+ we have known them. She asked what they were. She is from southern Idaho; he's from northern Utah. I bet there are plenty of Americans who wouldn't recognize something commonly grown in gardens, elsewhere. Okra and collards come to mind, probably those lemon cukes, although they might not be "common," anywhere. However. Familiar with crookneck squash?! But doesn't know ... zucchini?!
Steve
Lemon cukes are good! They run a little late even with early planting and one year, we nearly missed a harvest.
Here's an odd question, DW gave a couple of nice zucchini to a neighbor. Her husband grows crookneck every year in the 10+ we have known them. She asked what they were. She is from southern Idaho; he's from northern Utah. I bet there are plenty of Americans who wouldn't recognize something commonly grown in gardens, elsewhere. Okra and collards come to mind, probably those lemon cukes, although they might not be "common," anywhere. However. Familiar with crookneck squash?! But doesn't know ... zucchini?!
Steve
Growing up on the farm in Illinois everyone in the family grew crookneck squash. No one every grew zucchini squash. I learned about zucchini after moving to TN 1977. I did not grow zucchini often back then but now I think zucchini grows better than crookneck. This year I planted 4 of each 1 crookneck died early then 2 more died then the last one died they get some type root rot that kills them. Zucchini grows much better than crookneck so next year I will plant only zucchini but I like to eat fried crookneck better. Zucchini grows so fast it is hard to know what to do when 8 plants all have squash to harvest at the same time. Squash turns into mush if I can it in mason jars so Alice froze several bags this year. It is good fried with or without onions or potatoes and makes good bread also good on pizza. This year I learned to make zucchini smoothies.
Last edited by Dirt Man on Tue Oct 11, 2016 8:09 am, edited 2 times in total.
- jal_ut
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I plant both crookneck and zucchini. I like the young crookneck sliced and fried with an onion. They get all hard and knobby if let to get large. Not much good for anything but decorations. Zucchini on the other hand is good when small for frying, or as it gets larger it has been used in many ways. Do a google search for zucchini recipes.
We could probably put our feet up and do some remembering ... and bore the younger gardeners .
People had dinner parties that featured spaghetti in the '50's. I still remember when I had my first slice of pizza, after the first pizza parlor opened in town. Maybe zucchini arrived with those and attracted attention because of it's Italian origin .
Freezing this morning by 3:20am.
Steve
who remembers when a picture of an Early Girl tomato first showed up on the front cover of the Burpee catalog.
People had dinner parties that featured spaghetti in the '50's. I still remember when I had my first slice of pizza, after the first pizza parlor opened in town. Maybe zucchini arrived with those and attracted attention because of it's Italian origin .
Freezing this morning by 3:20am.
Steve
who remembers when a picture of an Early Girl tomato first showed up on the front cover of the Burpee catalog.
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- Greener Thumb
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It has frosted here (over 5500 feet) the last few nights lightly. I have some volunteer potato plants coming up from this year's crop; must have missed digging a few small ones. Funny thing is, the frost is not hurting them. I think volunteer plants are stronger than sown ones. Some are actually getting up to about 15 inches high and real bushy.
Could I possible get a second potato crop in the same year from volunteer plants? That would be something. Maybe at least some small new potatoes! In this zone and at this elevation that would be unusual.
Could I possible get a second potato crop in the same year from volunteer plants? That would be something. Maybe at least some small new potatoes! In this zone and at this elevation that would be unusual.
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Yeah it won't hurt. The potatoes are coming up right in the middle of a bed of green onions I planted as a follow up crop, so it's an easy matter to pull the onions as I need them without disturbing the potatoes!
BTW, glad you're getting a nice apple harvest! Last year my tree was loaded, this year not a single apple. Just don't get it!
BTW, glad you're getting a nice apple harvest! Last year my tree was loaded, this year not a single apple. Just don't get it!
I tried this deliberately one year.Taiji wrote:... Some are actually getting up to about 15 inches high and real bushy.
Could I possible get a second potato crop in the same year from volunteer plants? That would be something. Maybe at least some small new potatoes! In this zone and at this elevation that would be unusual.
Purple potatoes are a common "miss" for my careful, spud digging. Really, I usually find them all since I dig out the entire bed to about 8" in the harvest. Don't find all the purples, however. They come back as the tiniest of plants and account for nothing by season's end.
Back to re-planting deliberately one year: Potato harvest starts in my garden in July with earliest variety. Yukon Gold is an early variety and I moved some tubers to another location and replanted. I'd talked briefly to an actual potato farmer about this and he said that he didn't think it would work. Advice from a Virginia gardener was that it would work. I don't live in Virginia ...
I didn't even see those plants emerge that year. It was a mild winter, which is becoming somewhat common here. Those potatoes showed up in the spring. They produced tubers but didn't do as well as that year's plants. I don't know why that was.
I'd hoped for 2 harvests in the same year from a quick maturing variety. It didn't work. The tubers must have had their own ideas on the process. Your 15" tall plants sound like you have a good chance in your garden. I think it's worth a try to deliberately try this in some environments and with some varieties. It would be helpful if several ag schools would take it on as a research project.
Steve
- applestar
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I don't know if I can find it now, but there was an article by a Pennsylvania master gardener who wrote about fall-planting potatoes for next year's early new potato harvest to coincide with green pea harvest. I posted the link here a long time ago.
Vaguely remembered technique was to plant in a raised mound to avoid winter water logging and mulch really well 8-10" if I remember. It's ok for the tops to get frosted and die -- or maybe they were pruned down to be covered with the mulch. So even if they are not ready, you may be able to get them to survive the winter?
Vaguely remembered technique was to plant in a raised mound to avoid winter water logging and mulch really well 8-10" if I remember. It's ok for the tops to get frosted and die -- or maybe they were pruned down to be covered with the mulch. So even if they are not ready, you may be able to get them to survive the winter?
- Gary350
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applestar wrote:I don't know if I can find it now, but there was an article by a Pennsylvania master gardener who wrote about fall-planting potatoes for next year's early new potato harvest to coincide with green pea harvest. I posted the link here a long time ago.
Vaguely remembered technique was to plant in a raised mound to avoid winter water logging and mulch really well 8-10" if I remember. It's ok for the tops to get frosted and die -- or maybe they were pruned down to be covered with the mulch. So even if they are not ready, you may be able to get them to survive the winter?
I have done that, plant potatoes on the high part of a slope then cover them with about 1" of soil. As the plants grow keep covering them up until I have them covered with 12" of soil. Then cover them with straw. If frost kills the surface plants they grow back. The 12" of soil protects the potatoes from freezing. If I plant in Sept I will have potatoes in Dec. We sometimes don't get a hard freeze until after Christmas. I leave potatoes all winter and dig them in spring. This is the best potato crop I can get in TN. I usually get 100s of nice potatoes but nothing larger than 2 1/2" diameter.
I planted potatoes Wednesday weather man said rain but no rain, it has not rained here in 2 1/2 months.
I don't have a problem with having potatoes with peas ... unless, it's the opposite of that Pennsylvania gardener.
Potatoes go into the soil just a few days into April, in a bed I've prepped the year before. After cultivation tasks are a little further along and the soil dries more from winter snow, the pea seed goes in.
Here are some varieties I grow - early potatoes, Potato Garden. There will be plenty available in early July when I have peas.
If anything, I'd like the peas to hurry up and produce about 2 weeks earlier. But, I can only push them so fast in cold, wet soil.
Steve
Potatoes go into the soil just a few days into April, in a bed I've prepped the year before. After cultivation tasks are a little further along and the soil dries more from winter snow, the pea seed goes in.
Here are some varieties I grow - early potatoes, Potato Garden. There will be plenty available in early July when I have peas.
If anything, I'd like the peas to hurry up and produce about 2 weeks earlier. But, I can only push them so fast in cold, wet soil.
Steve
- jal_ut
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Overwintering potatoes at this locale is out of the question. The ground always freezes and with it any potato. Potatoes can be Spring planted early April. The same time you would plant pea seeds. Have fun!
About hilling potatoes, It is only necessary to pull a couple of inches of soil up around the vine. This simply to keep the expanding tubers from seeing the sun and turning green. Any more than that is a waste of the plants resources.
About hilling potatoes, It is only necessary to pull a couple of inches of soil up around the vine. This simply to keep the expanding tubers from seeing the sun and turning green. Any more than that is a waste of the plants resources.