James, I used to think that if I had pelleted seed I just might be able to start carrots right through the summer. I did find that I could push my luck while pushing my carrot planting opportunity window. The only time I had a guarantee of success with germination was sowing seeds about the last week April, unless I used pelleted seed.
Here's something that also works for me with late carrot plantings: cornstarch gel. One tablespoon cornstarch to one cup of boiling water makes the gel. Put it in a sandwich bag.
Make a bead of gel the proper depth in the soil. Sprinkle the carrot seed ON the line of gel and cover with soil. Here's where I got the idea. I just simplified it.
https://www.coopext.colostate.edu/4dmg/V ... /fliud.htm
Steve
Here's something that also works for me with late carrot plantings: cornstarch gel. One tablespoon cornstarch to one cup of boiling water makes the gel. Put it in a sandwich bag.
Make a bead of gel the proper depth in the soil. Sprinkle the carrot seed ON the line of gel and cover with soil. Here's where I got the idea. I just simplified it.
https://www.coopext.colostate.edu/4dmg/V ... /fliud.htm
Steve
When I put the seeds in the gel, I had real problems with spacing, AppleStar. Sprinkling seed on the gel works well.
It takes an extra step and quite a lot of gel to plant, say, 100 sqft of carrots. Therefore, I usually sow most of the seed in that April window of opportunity and not bother with the gel.
I always have problems with out of sight/ out of mind. My attempts with sowing under boards came up against that failing.
Steve
It takes an extra step and quite a lot of gel to plant, say, 100 sqft of carrots. Therefore, I usually sow most of the seed in that April window of opportunity and not bother with the gel.
I always have problems with out of sight/ out of mind. My attempts with sowing under boards came up against that failing.
Steve
Just regular seed planted 1/4" deep or so.
I try to do daily watering until germination but am usually only partly successful in doing it every day.
Also not in full sun.
I try to do daily watering until germination but am usually only partly successful in doing it every day.
Also not in full sun.
Last edited by Peter1142 on Sat Jul 09, 2016 9:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
This seems like a good spot for a related question, rather than a new thread.
I had good success with transplanting carrot seedlings into my buckets at the beginning of the season. My buckets are now sitting idle.
Would you reckon they will do OK if I start seedlings indoors and keep the buckets in part shade after transplanting?
I had good success with transplanting carrot seedlings into my buckets at the beginning of the season. My buckets are now sitting idle.
Would you reckon they will do OK if I start seedlings indoors and keep the buckets in part shade after transplanting?
- jal_ut
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I would be tempted to plant the seed where it will grow. I reckon sunshine is good once they are growing. I always grow carrots in full sunshine. I am going to say: Try Something!
I planted a row of seed. It is 95 degrees today. This will be interesting?
Have you heard of the "Plank Trick"? you take an old board and lay it over the newly planted carrot row to help hold in the moisture. Watch, and when you see germination take the board off.
I planted a row of seed. It is 95 degrees today. This will be interesting?
Have you heard of the "Plank Trick"? you take an old board and lay it over the newly planted carrot row to help hold in the moisture. Watch, and when you see germination take the board off.
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I am not having any luck with extra short carrots like Paris Market/Tondo and Danvers. Earlier on, they had been a source of disappointment compared to other varieties because they LOOK nice sized in diameter but pull out short and stubby -- sometimes as short as 1/2 just the greenish shoulder and 1/2 orange, while the longer ones were respectable even as thinnings.
So I harvested almost all of the longer carrots but decided to let these short ones grow full season -- well, now there are Black Swallowtail caterpillars everywhere ... And I'm too tenderhearted to get rid of them.
Fortunately, my patch of Golden Alexander wildflower foliage are managing to survive beneath all of the flourishing other wildflowers, so I have been clipping off the carrot greens with the caterpillars and tossing them in the wildflower garden.
-- today, I verified that they are doing well -- 4th and 5th instar caterpillars are everywhere in that patch... No room to walk. 
So I harvested almost all of the longer carrots but decided to let these short ones grow full season -- well, now there are Black Swallowtail caterpillars everywhere ... And I'm too tenderhearted to get rid of them.

Fortunately, my patch of Golden Alexander wildflower foliage are managing to survive beneath all of the flourishing other wildflowers, so I have been clipping off the carrot greens with the caterpillars and tossing them in the wildflower garden.


95 degrees may be challenging. We do plant carrots at 86 - 91 degrees in full sun but the beds need to be kept constantly moist. We use pelleted seed planted two inches apart. in shallow trenches barely covered. I don't have the land James has so I plant in a deep container or small bed filled with perlite and coir. I make sure the soil is thoroughly moistened but not soggy, I put down the seeds and barely cover them. On top of that I will put paper towels or newspaper over the seed and water through the paper. The paper acts as a mulch and helps to keep the seeds moist. I check in about 10 days to see if the seeds are germinating. Once the sprouts start coming up then I remove the paper but watering needs to be gentle. In a pot it is easier to copper band it to keep the snails out. I have window screen in the bottom of the pot to try to keep them from getting in through the drainage holes. If I plant in a container I can choose a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade.
The problem is not so much growing them here if I pick the right varieties, it is that most of the time carrots are bitter in the heat so they are best when the temperature does not exceed 70 degrees which is about January for me.
The most heat resistent carrots were Danvers half long (grows well but does not taste very good) ,Nantes, Nelson, red cored chanetenay, and Kuroda. Yaya, and mokum also grew, we just liked Nelson best.
The problem is not so much growing them here if I pick the right varieties, it is that most of the time carrots are bitter in the heat so they are best when the temperature does not exceed 70 degrees which is about January for me.
The most heat resistent carrots were Danvers half long (grows well but does not taste very good) ,Nantes, Nelson, red cored chanetenay, and Kuroda. Yaya, and mokum also grew, we just liked Nelson best.
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- KitchenGardener
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- Greener Thumb
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This year I planted 2 types of carrots not having planted any for a long time. My Scarlet Nantes did really well here; some nice 5 and 6 inch carrots. I will go with those in the future. I was amazed how many I got from just a 5 or 6 foot row. I planted in cool spring weather.
I tried some Danvers also, but the roots were short and stubby too. Better for me to go with something where I get a better bang for my buck!
I tried some Danvers also, but the roots were short and stubby too. Better for me to go with something where I get a better bang for my buck!
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I've never had much luck with carrots either. Best I had (and that isn't saying much) were the ones I grew in the raised bed the first year I put the bed in. Funny thing was, the seeds were very old, 5 years or so, and I planted them very very early in March. I think the freeze/thaw cycle woke them up. I was going to try them in pots this summer but got sidelined with a much more pressing project.
Like James, I'll give them another shot in the spring!
Like James, I'll give them another shot in the spring!
Catalog descriptions of carrot varieties often refer to soil types.I have very little experience with clay soils but imagine that they are not the easiest for growing carrots.
I have multiple garden locations. I only try to grow carrots in well-cultivated soil but even so, it's gravelly stuff! One problem is the rapid draining and the possibility of the roots splitting because of uneven moisture during their growth.
Shorter growth time, shorter carrots. It's best for me to grow short, quick-maturing varieties. Nelson Nantes is about as long as I'd care for them to grow. Really, I'd like even shorter and using pelleted seed and staggered sowings, can have a long carrot harvest, at least. But no ... DW likes looong carrots! Of course, the longer that root, the more likely it will fork when it works its way around pebble. The more time it takes to grow, the more things that can go wrong
.
At one time, I had a garden in what must be described as sandy loam. Carrots grew well there
.
Steve
I have multiple garden locations. I only try to grow carrots in well-cultivated soil but even so, it's gravelly stuff! One problem is the rapid draining and the possibility of the roots splitting because of uneven moisture during their growth.
Shorter growth time, shorter carrots. It's best for me to grow short, quick-maturing varieties. Nelson Nantes is about as long as I'd care for them to grow. Really, I'd like even shorter and using pelleted seed and staggered sowings, can have a long carrot harvest, at least. But no ... DW likes looong carrots! Of course, the longer that root, the more likely it will fork when it works its way around pebble. The more time it takes to grow, the more things that can go wrong

At one time, I had a garden in what must be described as sandy loam. Carrots grew well there

Steve
I have good luck with Danver half long carrots here in TN. I like carrot tops in salad better than the carrots but carrots are very good in stew and soup in winter. If I don't pull them up before the soil freezes they will not pull up until spring. Carrots get woody and bitter in hot weather but get sweet and tender again in cold weather. I have good luck planting seeds in the snow they come up in spring when the weather gets right but it gets too hot too soon. I have better carrots if I plant now and harvest before the soil freezes last week of Dec.
I was always told carrot seeds need 3 weeks of cold weather to germinate but not sure if that is true. I use to till my garden then lay it out with metal marker stakes at the ends of all the rows. If we get snow I would sprinkle carrot seeds in the snow between the markers for the carrot row. Soon as the snow melts enough to see the soil carrots would be coming up. We do not always get snow in TN so the best thing to do here is sprinkle seeds in the row before it rains too much to turn the garden to mud usually Halloween weekend carrots will be coming up in spring soon as the weather gets right. I make my carrot row about 8" wide sprinkle seeds like grass seed. Thin the carrot row the tiny carrots including tops are good in salad. If you have carrot tops you don't need lettuce.
- jal_ut
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The carrot seeds are small so must be planted close to the surface. The trouble here in hot dry Utah, the top inch of soil drys out quickly and the lil seeds will die if their root is not down into the moisture below. One trick I have used here is to plant the carrot seeds then lay a board over the row to hold the moisture in. After 3 days take the board off.
Dirt Man, I don't know about that 3 weeks thing. Ya I guess if you plant in cold weather it may take 3 weeks to see them? As with any seeds it takes a little time, some moisture and appropriate temperatures. I am thinking gardening in TN may require different techniques than here in High Dry Utah?
Dirt Man, I don't know about that 3 weeks thing. Ya I guess if you plant in cold weather it may take 3 weeks to see them? As with any seeds it takes a little time, some moisture and appropriate temperatures. I am thinking gardening in TN may require different techniques than here in High Dry Utah?