It's not bad enough I'm fighting fungal issues and pests again this summer, now I have RKN issues in a couple spots in my garden. I know it won't be long before they take over the entire garden as per previous incidents with these horrid little creatures.
I pulled a couple of pepper plants that look like they are on their last leg, but should be doing great in this environment and the unmistakable signs of root knot nematodes is there as clear as the disgusted look on my face upon seeing the gnarly, misshapen ball of roots that should be nice and stringy and vigorously growing now.
I've been telling my wife for the past few years that I was thinking about not gardening in the summer months and this latest development may just ice the cake. I didn't have any issues in the fall garden with them when I had a garden at another house years ago, so hopefully they will go dormant, or at least subside with their damage then and I can at least get that garden in and producing.
Such is life.
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applestar
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That's such a bummer! 
I had read somewhere that red mustard is a cover crop that when tilled in will suppress nematodes, so I went to find that article, but instead, came across this. And it's rapeseed that is being recommended, AND apparently they are started in the fall, so I was pretty far off. But the solarlizing part caught my eye.
For me, solarization has been an idea that just doesn't seem to work out because when the sun is good and hot in the summer, my garden beds are full. But if you are going to take a break in the garden for the summer, this seems like the perfect opportunity to prep and cover. I have heard though not verified that you can use 2x or 3x layers of thinner plastic sheeting -- I always wondered if painter's drop cloth might not be the perfect product....
What Can I Do About Nematodes? | North Carolina Cooperative Extension
https://pender.ces.ncsu.edu/2012/09/wha ... nematodes/
I had read somewhere that red mustard is a cover crop that when tilled in will suppress nematodes, so I went to find that article, but instead, came across this. And it's rapeseed that is being recommended, AND apparently they are started in the fall, so I was pretty far off. But the solarlizing part caught my eye.
For me, solarization has been an idea that just doesn't seem to work out because when the sun is good and hot in the summer, my garden beds are full. But if you are going to take a break in the garden for the summer, this seems like the perfect opportunity to prep and cover. I have heard though not verified that you can use 2x or 3x layers of thinner plastic sheeting -- I always wondered if painter's drop cloth might not be the perfect product....
What Can I Do About Nematodes? | North Carolina Cooperative Extension
https://pender.ces.ncsu.edu/2012/09/wha ... nematodes/
A practice gaining in popularity is the use of certain cover crops to reduce nematode populations. One of the most promising is rapeseed, a relative of mustard and canola. When tilled into the soil, decaying leaves from this crop suppress root knot nematode levels.
Rapeseed is seeded in the fall, from late September through late October. Seed should be broadcast across the garden. Plants are left to grow through the winter and tilled into the soil in March. Rapeseed crops have a high sulfur requirement, a nutrient that is commonly deficient in sandy soils. When growing rapeseed for nematode control, be sure to take a sample of your soil to your local Cooperative Extension office for testing to find out if you need to add additional sulfur. If sulfur levels are too low, the rapeseed crop will not be able to generate the organic compounds that suppress nematode populations.
Other practices that reduce root knot nematode levels in vegetable gardens include frequently tilling the soil in the spring and summer to expose nematodes to sun and air, adding compost to the soil, and soil solarization. Gardeners can solarize their soil by tilling and watering the garden then covering it with clear plastic for several weeks in summer. To keep nematode levels down, gardeners will need to employ as many of these practices as possible every season.
That's the thing, once you have them, it is near impossible to control them without extensive measures being taken. I have had a great early fall/winter garden for years and if I had to plant rapseed and let it grow all throughout the fall, that would negate my fall garden.
I know about solarization since I had this problem once before and tilled my garden in the summer and covered the ground in black plastic to heat the soil to levels sufficient to kill the nematodes. Problem is, they are in the surrounding soil and eventually creep back in. I've also used marigolds as a deterrent for nematodes, but that just make more work for the gardener in the long run and my experience finds it negligible in effectiveness.
I think I'll just stick to fall gardening when I know nematodes are at the lowest harmful level. Thanks for the information you have posted, but for now, I'm just pretty much disgusted with the whole mess and ready to throw up my hands in defeat for summer crops.
I know about solarization since I had this problem once before and tilled my garden in the summer and covered the ground in black plastic to heat the soil to levels sufficient to kill the nematodes. Problem is, they are in the surrounding soil and eventually creep back in. I've also used marigolds as a deterrent for nematodes, but that just make more work for the gardener in the long run and my experience finds it negligible in effectiveness.
I think I'll just stick to fall gardening when I know nematodes are at the lowest harmful level. Thanks for the information you have posted, but for now, I'm just pretty much disgusted with the whole mess and ready to throw up my hands in defeat for summer crops.
Man, I hate to hear the problems you are having, gumbo. I always depend on you for good reports of early maters and lots of okra. The soil bourne issues are a bugger to fight, especially in hot humid climates. Also, it is hard for me to figure what the exact problems are.
There is no doubt that I cannot get more than a couple years out of soil for tomatoes. I have moved almost totally to big containers for tomatoes, so I can empty them out every few years and refill with fresh soil from the farm where I grew up. Lots of work but worth it when the crop is successful. For the pots with older soil, I will place a tomato, let it grow. If it fails then I pull off the green maters, pull up the plant, and plant corn or okra.
I have one larger area where I emptied many pots last winter. For the most part I have peppers, squash and corn in this are, but planted four Gary O'Sena tomato plants. They have been doing so well. I guessed that perhaps moving the soil helped with the issues in the pots. Well, two days ago one of the beautiful plants showed signs of the Southern Bacterial Wilt. My issue may be something else, but everything I read points to this. One day the plants are beautiful, the next they completely wilt, even with consistent watering. Here is a picture of the dying plant. It has a half dozen beautiful green tomatoes on it.
There is no doubt that I cannot get more than a couple years out of soil for tomatoes. I have moved almost totally to big containers for tomatoes, so I can empty them out every few years and refill with fresh soil from the farm where I grew up. Lots of work but worth it when the crop is successful. For the pots with older soil, I will place a tomato, let it grow. If it fails then I pull off the green maters, pull up the plant, and plant corn or okra.
I have one larger area where I emptied many pots last winter. For the most part I have peppers, squash and corn in this are, but planted four Gary O'Sena tomato plants. They have been doing so well. I guessed that perhaps moving the soil helped with the issues in the pots. Well, two days ago one of the beautiful plants showed signs of the Southern Bacterial Wilt. My issue may be something else, but everything I read points to this. One day the plants are beautiful, the next they completely wilt, even with consistent watering. Here is a picture of the dying plant. It has a half dozen beautiful green tomatoes on it.
Allyn wrote:Screw the summer garden! I'm starting my seeds next month for fall. You and me, Gumbo; let's do fall gardens. Screw the summer.
That's my thinking since this latest development. Don't get me wrong, I still have cucumbers coming in like mad, okra doing well, eggplant still producing and some of my pepper plants looking like they have no issues-----yet.
But add every bean plant, all the tomato plants, squash and many of the pepper plants to the list of failed crops for this summer. I've been thinking of not planting a summer garden for a few years now and this just may finally be the thing that sets it in stone.
This has been frustrating since I had a much better garden last summer and only lost tomatoes to fungal issues and squash to the perennial vine borers that plague them in the summer months. Everything else did fine until the July/August heat took its toll.
Tomatoes, lettuce, beans, carrots, kale....... what else have I got?-
applestar
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Well, you know you folks in the south will be showing off pics of GREAT STUFF while we up here in the north are huddled around the fire while freezing temps rage outside come late fall and winter. Maybe it's OK to take it easy inside while the temps soar in the 100's outside? 
I'm really sorry for the disappointment. That I can relate with -- garden disasters arrive in all kinds of ways.
...am I crazy to be having same thoughts as Allyn -- to start some seeds for fall "next month/week"?
I'm really sorry for the disappointment. That I can relate with -- garden disasters arrive in all kinds of ways.
...am I crazy to be having same thoughts as Allyn -- to start some seeds for fall "next month/week"?
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KitchenGardener
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- Location: Northern California; Hardiness Zone 10a, Climate zone: 17
Gumbo and Lakngulf: I am really sorry to hear that despite doing everything right, you are feeling somewhat defeated. It sucks and just seems well, unfair. If you grow in above ground containers, will the fungus issues and nematodes find their way there as well?
And yeah, maybe the only bright spot is that not having a summer garden means you won't have to be out in the 100 degree weather fighting for your plants. Probably a small consolation for such avid gardeners as yourselves, though.
And yeah, maybe the only bright spot is that not having a summer garden means you won't have to be out in the 100 degree weather fighting for your plants. Probably a small consolation for such avid gardeners as yourselves, though.
Since fungal issues can be soil borne and nematodes definitely soil borne, I'd say gardening in containers can just about eliminate those problems. Like Lakngulf mentioned, he changes out his soil in his containers to keep fungal issues at bay. It does make for more work, but how much is a good crop of tomatoes worth as opposed to having plants wither and die from fungal and pest issues.
And yes, you have a point about trying to garden in our oppressive summer heat. All my gardening work is done from sunup until around 8 a.m. or later in the evening just before sunset. But in the early a.m. is a lot easier since the ground has cooled a bit overnight.
And yes, you have a point about trying to garden in our oppressive summer heat. All my gardening work is done from sunup until around 8 a.m. or later in the evening just before sunset. But in the early a.m. is a lot easier since the ground has cooled a bit overnight.
Nematodes are a fact of life here. There are ways to suppress nematodes but not really to eliminate it.
Certain species of marigolds like marigold Single gold (Burpee sells the single gold marigold as nemagone ) and crackerjack to supress southern root knot nematodes.
Beware that it is important to know what species of nematodes you are dealing with. While certain marigolds help to supress some nematodes they can also be hosts to others.
Incorporating lots of organic matter like compost and chicken manure helps to keep nematode numbers down mainly because it encourages a healthy soil community and beneficial nematodes will kill the bad ones
Solarizing helps but solarization does not kill much below the first 4-6 inches of soil, it does reduce their numbers.
Nematodes have multiple hosts so the weed hosts would be reservoir
Nematodes don't naturally travel very far by themselves usually only about 3 ft a year. However, you can move them around on your tools, boots, clothes, body and by transplanting infested plants unknowingly.
The strategies I use to control nematodes are that if I find a spot particularly infested with nematodes. I plant Crackerjack marigolds, or sunhemp thickly on it for at least a year. Weeds still have to be removed because they are hosts for nematodes.
When I work in the garden, I work the known nematode areas last and make sure the tools, boots, hands,feet, and clothing are washed and disinfected afterwards I like to use pinesol for equipment. I can add it it to the laundry and soak the tools and boots in it.
I need to plant primarily nematode resistant crops. The tropical corn I grow does not get attacked by nematodes at least not here so planting a non host like corn and under planting with nemagone or crackerjack drives the nematodes away.
Most of the locally developed sees are nematode resistant and have some fungal resistance as well.
Usually, a small number of pathogenic nematodes is tolerable, you can still get a decent crop.
For susceptible crops like ginger, the farmers plant alternate rows with marigolds to suppress nematodes and alternate planting rows. Ginger farms have strict rules to prevent nematodes from being imported. One farm only allowed authorized persons into the field. They had to wear overalls and boots that were only used in that field and everything was disinfected after leaving the field. If a ginger farm gets infested with nematodes, the farmers don't try to get rid of it, they just move the farm instead.
I usually plant nematode resistant vegetables Poamoho string beans, VFFFNT tomatoes, and bell peppers like Charleston bell, Kaala, bell (miniature), California Wonder, Keystone and yolo wonder.
I plant ginger and most of the tomatoes that I don't know the resistance of in 18 gallon tubs using sterile potting mixes. I like to raise the tubs and plants off the ground on blocks or benches.
When I have had a hard time getting rid of nematodes in a particular spot even after planting rotating plants and growing supression plants, I have dug out the soil and replaced it. My planting areas are separated and not large so it is possible to do a soil replacement.
All plants infected with nematodes have to be destroyed and cannot be composted. I do a similar thing with clubfoot in cabbages. I have to rotate the location and get rid of residues.
solarization uses clear plastic. but it needs to lie in close contact with the soil the edges have to be sealed or buried so air cannot get under the plastic. I tried using the painter's plastic, it worked in the beginning but the very thin plastic starting having holes in them and there were more holes than I could keep up with. The 6 ml painter's plastic sheeting was stronger and the holes were easier to patch.
https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/PD-35.pdf
https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/pd-84.pdf
https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/sustainag/n ... rigold.pdf
Commercial farms here solarize and use a soil fumigant like vapam which is very effective, but probably will require a pesticide license so it needs to be hired out.
Certain species of marigolds like marigold Single gold (Burpee sells the single gold marigold as nemagone ) and crackerjack to supress southern root knot nematodes.
Beware that it is important to know what species of nematodes you are dealing with. While certain marigolds help to supress some nematodes they can also be hosts to others.
Incorporating lots of organic matter like compost and chicken manure helps to keep nematode numbers down mainly because it encourages a healthy soil community and beneficial nematodes will kill the bad ones
Solarizing helps but solarization does not kill much below the first 4-6 inches of soil, it does reduce their numbers.
Nematodes have multiple hosts so the weed hosts would be reservoir
Nematodes don't naturally travel very far by themselves usually only about 3 ft a year. However, you can move them around on your tools, boots, clothes, body and by transplanting infested plants unknowingly.
The strategies I use to control nematodes are that if I find a spot particularly infested with nematodes. I plant Crackerjack marigolds, or sunhemp thickly on it for at least a year. Weeds still have to be removed because they are hosts for nematodes.
When I work in the garden, I work the known nematode areas last and make sure the tools, boots, hands,feet, and clothing are washed and disinfected afterwards I like to use pinesol for equipment. I can add it it to the laundry and soak the tools and boots in it.
I need to plant primarily nematode resistant crops. The tropical corn I grow does not get attacked by nematodes at least not here so planting a non host like corn and under planting with nemagone or crackerjack drives the nematodes away.
Most of the locally developed sees are nematode resistant and have some fungal resistance as well.
Usually, a small number of pathogenic nematodes is tolerable, you can still get a decent crop.
For susceptible crops like ginger, the farmers plant alternate rows with marigolds to suppress nematodes and alternate planting rows. Ginger farms have strict rules to prevent nematodes from being imported. One farm only allowed authorized persons into the field. They had to wear overalls and boots that were only used in that field and everything was disinfected after leaving the field. If a ginger farm gets infested with nematodes, the farmers don't try to get rid of it, they just move the farm instead.
I usually plant nematode resistant vegetables Poamoho string beans, VFFFNT tomatoes, and bell peppers like Charleston bell, Kaala, bell (miniature), California Wonder, Keystone and yolo wonder.
I plant ginger and most of the tomatoes that I don't know the resistance of in 18 gallon tubs using sterile potting mixes. I like to raise the tubs and plants off the ground on blocks or benches.
When I have had a hard time getting rid of nematodes in a particular spot even after planting rotating plants and growing supression plants, I have dug out the soil and replaced it. My planting areas are separated and not large so it is possible to do a soil replacement.
All plants infected with nematodes have to be destroyed and cannot be composted. I do a similar thing with clubfoot in cabbages. I have to rotate the location and get rid of residues.
solarization uses clear plastic. but it needs to lie in close contact with the soil the edges have to be sealed or buried so air cannot get under the plastic. I tried using the painter's plastic, it worked in the beginning but the very thin plastic starting having holes in them and there were more holes than I could keep up with. The 6 ml painter's plastic sheeting was stronger and the holes were easier to patch.
https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/PD-35.pdf
https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/oc/freepubs/pdf/pd-84.pdf
https://www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/sustainag/n ... rigold.pdf
Commercial farms here solarize and use a soil fumigant like vapam which is very effective, but probably will require a pesticide license so it needs to be hired out.