Problem with my tomatoes and peppers
Hello no need so say much just see the pictures I have uploaded. My tomatoes and peppers turn black at the bottom what is the problem? Ι live in a very sunny area where temperatures in the summer are from 30 to 42. The plants do not show any symptoms on the leaves just the vegetables is the problem. I notice the same problem in potted plants too.
- Attachments
-
-
Classic case of Blossom End Rot. Tons written about this condition. Notice use of word condition not disease. This is the result of a plant's inability to move calcium from the soil into the plant and fruit. The cause is generally thought to be from inconsistent watering; too much and then too little. Another cause is temperature swings from cool to hot and back and forth. Almost never is the lack of calcium attributed to soil conditions although I do not know about Cyprus. BER is most often an early season problem that straightens itself out after fluctuating conditions of rain and temperature become steady.
As stated, there is much information about this condition available. Unless your soil test indicates a lack of available calcium in Cyprus, adding calcium is not the fix.
As stated, there is much information about this condition available. Unless your soil test indicates a lack of available calcium in Cyprus, adding calcium is not the fix.
thanks for your reply,
I don't know what caused the inability of the plant to absorb calcium maybe it is the soil because I put a lot of manure this year so it is the high levels of nitrogen in the soil, or because it is hot here(35-39 day 22-25 night) but I am not sure. If I apply a 20-20-20 fertilizer will it fix the ph levels and the soil?
I don't know what caused the inability of the plant to absorb calcium maybe it is the soil because I put a lot of manure this year so it is the high levels of nitrogen in the soil, or because it is hot here(35-39 day 22-25 night) but I am not sure. If I apply a 20-20-20 fertilizer will it fix the ph levels and the soil?
-
applestar
- Mod
- Posts: 30550
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 7:21 pm
- Location: Zone 6, NJ (3/M)4/E ~ 10/M(11/B)
Wow those are some high numbers. You'd better show us how the plants look first.
I suspect this isn't the right time to apply such a fertilizer though, unless extreme case and in need. Chemical/salt based high nutrient fertilizer in the soil will make it more difficult for the plant to absorb water by osmosis. As already mentioned, uneven watering and difficulty moving calcium while the fruit is setting and developing is the primary cause of BER.
Take a look at the multi-page Blossom End Rot sticky thread at the top of the tomato growing forum for details and remedies.
Subject: BER -- Blossom End Rot
If you do need to fertilize now, with the tomato plants blooming and setting fruits, the nutrient ratio should be higher in the P and K but lower in the N (first number). If you've already been fertilizing with the 20-20-20, I suspect you wouldn't need any more at this point,
I suspect this isn't the right time to apply such a fertilizer though, unless extreme case and in need. Chemical/salt based high nutrient fertilizer in the soil will make it more difficult for the plant to absorb water by osmosis. As already mentioned, uneven watering and difficulty moving calcium while the fruit is setting and developing is the primary cause of BER.
Take a look at the multi-page Blossom End Rot sticky thread at the top of the tomato growing forum for details and remedies.
Subject: BER -- Blossom End RotIf you do need to fertilize now, with the tomato plants blooming and setting fruits, the nutrient ratio should be higher in the P and K but lower in the N (first number). If you've already been fertilizing with the 20-20-20, I suspect you wouldn't need any more at this point,
pH cannot be adusted by fertilizer alone. Sulfur is usually used to adjust pH but it takes six months so it would not help the plants now.
BER is rarely an actual calcium deficit. It is a physiological condition, a relative calcium deficit. The plants are growing faster in response to the longer days and even if there was enough calcium in the soil, the plants are not able to transport enough calcium to support the rapid growth. There is increased transpiration and the plants are losing water at a time when the plants are demanding more.
Uneven watering added to the water loss from transpiration and the fact that you have large fruiting plants that are demanding more water makes it harder for the plant to transport the calcum to the growing part so the plant does what it needs to do to survive and takes the calcuim from the fruit to support the plant growth.
Fertilizing more won't help the BER in the short run and it may acutally spur more growth and more BER.
If you are using a synthetic fertilizer, if may still be lacking minors like calcium , magnesium, iron, and Zinc.
Some varieties are more prone to BER than others .
I plant tomatoes in self watering pots. That way whty are always moist as the reservoir whould not be emptied.
BER is rarely an actual calcium deficit. It is a physiological condition, a relative calcium deficit. The plants are growing faster in response to the longer days and even if there was enough calcium in the soil, the plants are not able to transport enough calcium to support the rapid growth. There is increased transpiration and the plants are losing water at a time when the plants are demanding more.
Uneven watering added to the water loss from transpiration and the fact that you have large fruiting plants that are demanding more water makes it harder for the plant to transport the calcum to the growing part so the plant does what it needs to do to survive and takes the calcuim from the fruit to support the plant growth.
Fertilizing more won't help the BER in the short run and it may acutally spur more growth and more BER.
If you are using a synthetic fertilizer, if may still be lacking minors like calcium , magnesium, iron, and Zinc.
Some varieties are more prone to BER than others .
I plant tomatoes in self watering pots. That way whty are always moist as the reservoir whould not be emptied.
here you can see the plants. By the way, I pruned the tomatoes so you will see 1 picture before and one after pruning. The plants seem healthy so what problems are we rejecting? Maybe soil PH is ok? Temperatures may be the problem
Here you can see the temperatures in my area: https://www.google.com.cy/?gws_rd=cr,ss ... emperature
An other problem can be too much nitrogen in the soil?
Here you can see the temperatures in my area: https://www.google.com.cy/?gws_rd=cr,ss ... emperature
An other problem can be too much nitrogen in the soil?
- Attachments
-
-
-
If you had too much nitrogen you would have a monster plant and very few fruit. I have more nitrogen than I need and my plants are over 8 ft tall and have already gone over the top of the trellis and starting to hang down. I do not have that much excessive nitrogen because I am still getting fruit. I will be replacing some of my tomatoes since they are over 4 months old now and the red cherry looks practically dead. I cage my tomatoes so I do very little pruning.
Even if I did prune, I could not take off so many leaves in the summer in Hawaii. The fruit would scald.
Even if I did prune, I could not take off so many leaves in the summer in Hawaii. The fruit would scald.