I live in the Washington DC area and I am getting my garden ready for the year. I just started all of my seeds inside last night, but I need some advice on what to do to control the soil diseases that devastated my garden last year. I have four contained beds that do not have bottoms on them. They are all about 4x6.
Last year I planted tomatoes, peppers, squash, cucumbers, and a few other odds and ends. Everything got off to a good start and seemed to be growing tall and strong. After about a month in the ground, there was a period of about a week with constant rain. After that. the diseases set in and I was never able to salvage much. The peppers were unaffected, but the squash, cucumbers and tomatoes were hit hard. The squash and cucumbers were hit with powdery mildew I believe, and never yielded a single thing. I'm not sure what the tomatoes got, but the fruits were often black at the end, the leaves began turning brown and wilting, and the stalks became very weak and began to bend and break. I got a few tomatoes, but not much.
From my understanding, most of these issues are likely due to fungal diseases that live within the soil. This year I'm going for tomatoes, squash, peppers, and herbs, and I would like to knock these diseases out so they don't plague my crop again.
I've done my research on a few methods for controlling disease, and most have pointed me to solarization as the best method. I should have at least 6 weeks before my seedlings are ready to go into the ground, so time is not a concern. However, I am concerned that it will not be warm enough here to heat the soil to a high enough temp. I was hoping that I could find some kind of fungicide to mix directly into the soil when I till this weekend, but ive struck out on that.
So, can anyone help me out with some advice on what I should be doing here? I would like to stay as chemical free as possible, but I also don't want to have everything die again for the sake of not using chemicals, so everything is on the table. Please help!
Sam
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samscordato
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sweetiepie
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I don't plant in contained beds so I am not much help as far as that. I plant in a typical garden plot. I have never experienced powdery mildew. (Knock on Wood) I think it is because we have so much wind here.
But your tomatoes sound like they got blossom end rot. That usually happens when they get two much water and the nutrients get flushed or drain away. They are lacking calcium, which I have used crushed up egg shells applied to the dirt.
But your tomatoes sound like they got blossom end rot. That usually happens when they get two much water and the nutrients get flushed or drain away. They are lacking calcium, which I have used crushed up egg shells applied to the dirt.
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applestar
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I've read a lot about solarization since the 1980's but I've never been able to successfully achieve the kind of conditions required, and typically not at the right time for planting unless preparing for fall crops to be planted in mid to late summer.
I think foliage fungal issues like powdery mildew isnt only in your soil but blows in with the wind, so it's better to start spraying susceptible plants preventatively as soon as the humid/muggy season starts in your area, BEFORE you start seeing the actual signs. I use milk spray and AACT (actively aerated compost tea). You'll find a big, rambling, but extremely informative thread about it at the top of the Compost Forum.
Good compost with diverse microbes and microorganisms will help your garden beds out compete or outright prey on the disease causing fungi and bacteria. Some people use single organism soil treatment, but I prefer the diversity. Take a look at the Forum on Teaming with Microbes. You may want to get and read that book, too.
I agree the blackened ends/bottoms on tomatoes are Blossom End Rot (BER) -- informative sticky thread about that in the Tomato Growing Forum. Important to start with sufficient calcium but physiological incapacity to uptake calcium is the cause even when there Is calcium available in the soil. Some varieties are extra susceptible so growing varieties that don't get BER under the same conditions would help. Some varieties will get BER in the first truss regardless, then go on to produce perfectly good fruits like nothing happened.
Tomato stalks getting weak and bendy -- what kind of support did you use? What varieties of tomatoes were you growing? -- what will you be growing this year?
Tell us what kind of soil is in the beds and conditions are like when there is heavy/excessive rainfall.
I think foliage fungal issues like powdery mildew isnt only in your soil but blows in with the wind, so it's better to start spraying susceptible plants preventatively as soon as the humid/muggy season starts in your area, BEFORE you start seeing the actual signs. I use milk spray and AACT (actively aerated compost tea). You'll find a big, rambling, but extremely informative thread about it at the top of the Compost Forum.
Good compost with diverse microbes and microorganisms will help your garden beds out compete or outright prey on the disease causing fungi and bacteria. Some people use single organism soil treatment, but I prefer the diversity. Take a look at the Forum on Teaming with Microbes. You may want to get and read that book, too.
I agree the blackened ends/bottoms on tomatoes are Blossom End Rot (BER) -- informative sticky thread about that in the Tomato Growing Forum. Important to start with sufficient calcium but physiological incapacity to uptake calcium is the cause even when there Is calcium available in the soil. Some varieties are extra susceptible so growing varieties that don't get BER under the same conditions would help. Some varieties will get BER in the first truss regardless, then go on to produce perfectly good fruits like nothing happened.
Tomato stalks getting weak and bendy -- what kind of support did you use? What varieties of tomatoes were you growing? -- what will you be growing this year?
Tell us what kind of soil is in the beds and conditions are like when there is heavy/excessive rainfall.
Powdery mildew and downy mildew are problems that occur in the humid days that follow a rain. Prevention is to spray with a fungicide preventively. I prefer horticultural oil when I know a storm is coming because it will not wash off easily and it does help the leaves to wick off the water. If I did not get around to doing that before the storm, then I prefer to use sulfur as a preventive (it can only be used if an oil has not been used in the last two weeks), milk, or horticultural oil used within three days of rain will usually prevent any serious problems. Even alcohol works. Some plants will start to mildew quickly. Pick off and destroy any leaves you see, do not let it drop on the ground.
The other thing would be to make sure you have allowed enough space between the plants to get good air circulation. Crowding and planting up against solid objects (like walls or fences) block air movement.
BER- I rarely get that, but some cultivars are more susceptible. Some people do add a bit of lime to the pot for calcium when they plant their tomato. ( I don't do that). If it rains a lot you cannot control that, but if it is because the plant is watered and then goes through a dry period, wilts frequently, then consider planting the tomato in a self watering container. It solve the issue of uneven watering if you have at least a 5 gallon reservoir and you don't let it go empty.
Heavy rain is more likely to cause cracking than BER, from the rapid expansion of the tissues when it is growing faster than the skin can expand, or getting a lot of water and the shrinkage when the plant dries out. Some cultivars are more susceptible than others. Genetics plays a part and some fruit will almost always crack. The cracking is usually radial. If you have concentric cracking that is from uneven watering. Again a self watering container usually fixes that.
Unless you have a serious soil issue like phythoptora, or black rot. Rotating crops that have had problems to another part of the garden helps. There isn't much you can do about phythoptora, it can stay in the ground for years.
Fungal issues are usually problems with the soil being too wet for too long. Either from poor drainage or too much water. Repeatedly tilling the soil and exposing it to light and letting it dry out will help to kill a lot of the fungal problems.
I unfortunately will do in many of the good soil microbes too. Solarization needs to be done in the hottest months of the year around July and August. It will only reach down about 4-6 inches. The other choice would be replace the soil or raise the bed and create a garden bed above the problem area. There are good soil fungicides, but unless you have a license, it may be restricted. Subdue is a good one, and it is very expensive.
Adding organic matter is a two edged sword it improves drainage but also holds on to water. The other thing is to learn to water only when needed.
If you know you have problems with some things, then look for resistant cultivars. Sometimes, there is a trade off between resistance and taste or texture, you just have to experiment.
Sometimes all you need to do is some rearranging in the garden and adjusting planting times to find the sweet spot where the plants are the happiest and planting at the times that avoids the worst of the problems like rain for mildew prone plants, planting in cooler weather or in the shade for plants that cannot take the heat, and planting slightly out of season to avoid the worst of the pests , or at least be prepared in advance to minimize their damage (row covers, bt, preventive antifungal sprays, insect traps, netting, plant pollinator, nectar, and trap plants to attract predators, etc.), and companion planting to figure out what works best together.
You won't be able to eliminate all of the problems, but you should still be able to get enough out of your garden to make it worthwhile.
The other thing would be to make sure you have allowed enough space between the plants to get good air circulation. Crowding and planting up against solid objects (like walls or fences) block air movement.
BER- I rarely get that, but some cultivars are more susceptible. Some people do add a bit of lime to the pot for calcium when they plant their tomato. ( I don't do that). If it rains a lot you cannot control that, but if it is because the plant is watered and then goes through a dry period, wilts frequently, then consider planting the tomato in a self watering container. It solve the issue of uneven watering if you have at least a 5 gallon reservoir and you don't let it go empty.
Heavy rain is more likely to cause cracking than BER, from the rapid expansion of the tissues when it is growing faster than the skin can expand, or getting a lot of water and the shrinkage when the plant dries out. Some cultivars are more susceptible than others. Genetics plays a part and some fruit will almost always crack. The cracking is usually radial. If you have concentric cracking that is from uneven watering. Again a self watering container usually fixes that.
Unless you have a serious soil issue like phythoptora, or black rot. Rotating crops that have had problems to another part of the garden helps. There isn't much you can do about phythoptora, it can stay in the ground for years.
Fungal issues are usually problems with the soil being too wet for too long. Either from poor drainage or too much water. Repeatedly tilling the soil and exposing it to light and letting it dry out will help to kill a lot of the fungal problems.
I unfortunately will do in many of the good soil microbes too. Solarization needs to be done in the hottest months of the year around July and August. It will only reach down about 4-6 inches. The other choice would be replace the soil or raise the bed and create a garden bed above the problem area. There are good soil fungicides, but unless you have a license, it may be restricted. Subdue is a good one, and it is very expensive.
Adding organic matter is a two edged sword it improves drainage but also holds on to water. The other thing is to learn to water only when needed.
If you know you have problems with some things, then look for resistant cultivars. Sometimes, there is a trade off between resistance and taste or texture, you just have to experiment.
Sometimes all you need to do is some rearranging in the garden and adjusting planting times to find the sweet spot where the plants are the happiest and planting at the times that avoids the worst of the problems like rain for mildew prone plants, planting in cooler weather or in the shade for plants that cannot take the heat, and planting slightly out of season to avoid the worst of the pests , or at least be prepared in advance to minimize their damage (row covers, bt, preventive antifungal sprays, insect traps, netting, plant pollinator, nectar, and trap plants to attract predators, etc.), and companion planting to figure out what works best together.
You won't be able to eliminate all of the problems, but you should still be able to get enough out of your garden to make it worthwhile.
PM was bad last year due to the cooler summer. I think it dies out when above 85. I was thinking about trying MKP (Monopotassium Phosphate 0-52-34) this year as a foliage spray. Some guys are using it aquaponics to treat PM and give a P an K boost. It can't be that bad since that's what they put in gatorade. You don't want extra phosphates getting into the drain water since the farmers already pollute it enough. Technically it is supposed to be put on early to promote root growth.
I thought about it, and I wouldn't worry too much about solarizing the soil. Basically powdery and downy mildew spread on spores in the air.
Making sure the garden is cleaned up well and the diseased plants are bagged and burned is the best way to handle that.
Selecting the resistant cultivars, proper plant spacing, and preventive anti fungal sprays when conditions favor mildew are the best defense.
Realize that cucumbers, zucchini, squash for the most part end up more susceptible to mildew as they get older. Sometimes, you just have to bite the bullet and pull them out.
Making sure the garden is cleaned up well and the diseased plants are bagged and burned is the best way to handle that.
Selecting the resistant cultivars, proper plant spacing, and preventive anti fungal sprays when conditions favor mildew are the best defense.
Realize that cucumbers, zucchini, squash for the most part end up more susceptible to mildew as they get older. Sometimes, you just have to bite the bullet and pull them out.
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samscordato
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Thank you guys very much for all of your advice. Truly a big help.
I went home yesterday and did some digging to see how the soil looked below the first 8 inches. I discovered that it was very dense and clay like, and realized that the main issue looks to be drainage. It hasn't even rained much here lately and the soil was soaked. Granted it has been a pretty wet winter, it should have at least dried out a little.
Per your advice, I think I'm going to forego the solarization, and focus on tilling and loosening the soil about 2 feet deep to see if that helps improve drainage. I will keep turning for the next few weeks to help dry it out, and amend with some compost from one of the local farms. Also, I am going to plant less plants this year in order to give them plenty of space and air flow. I may have crowded them a bit last year in my excitement to have a bunch of variety. I will also try either milk spray or some oils as preventative measures.
As far as the types of tomatoes that I'm growing this year, they are San Marzano, Better Boy, and Early Treats. All Burpee seeds that I picked up at home depot. Not sure if these are resistant types, but I will check them out tonight.
For irrigation, I was going to bury soaker hose so I could just turn the water occasional to water directly at the roots. Is this a good idea with my soil conditions or should I just go with regular spray watering?
Thanks!
Sam
I went home yesterday and did some digging to see how the soil looked below the first 8 inches. I discovered that it was very dense and clay like, and realized that the main issue looks to be drainage. It hasn't even rained much here lately and the soil was soaked. Granted it has been a pretty wet winter, it should have at least dried out a little.
Per your advice, I think I'm going to forego the solarization, and focus on tilling and loosening the soil about 2 feet deep to see if that helps improve drainage. I will keep turning for the next few weeks to help dry it out, and amend with some compost from one of the local farms. Also, I am going to plant less plants this year in order to give them plenty of space and air flow. I may have crowded them a bit last year in my excitement to have a bunch of variety. I will also try either milk spray or some oils as preventative measures.
As far as the types of tomatoes that I'm growing this year, they are San Marzano, Better Boy, and Early Treats. All Burpee seeds that I picked up at home depot. Not sure if these are resistant types, but I will check them out tonight.
For irrigation, I was going to bury soaker hose so I could just turn the water occasional to water directly at the roots. Is this a good idea with my soil conditions or should I just go with regular spray watering?
Thanks!
Sam
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samscordato
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Taiji
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I remember years ago on the Victory Garden he covered the entire prepared bed with black plastic, then punched holes in it to plant the tomatoes in. He thought it might protect the plants from soil borne diseases better. Don't know if it helped or not, I never tried that. I will say when my tomato leaves start to wilt and curl up, it is on the bottom branches.
Not sure how the plants get water after that, maybe by hand thru the punched holes near the stems? Maybe you could pre-bury a soaker hose underneath?
Speaking of the Victory Garden I recently found and ordered Jim Crockett's book: The Victory Garden on ebay. Expect it any day now!
Not sure how the plants get water after that, maybe by hand thru the punched holes near the stems? Maybe you could pre-bury a soaker hose underneath?
Speaking of the Victory Garden I recently found and ordered Jim Crockett's book: The Victory Garden on ebay. Expect it any day now!
Will work but may be an expensive route.samscordato wrote:Another quick question. What are your thoughts on mixing potting soil in with my garden soil to fluff it up a bit and prevent heavy compacting in the future. I know potting soil is designed for better drainage, so I was thinking mixing it in might help my soil drain better.
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SFloridaGardener
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Sorry to hijack this thread but it seems like a good place to ask about my soil problem...
A week or two ago I started to have a powdery mildew problem with my squash and zucchini...so I've been spraying an organic copper antifungal spray...today I noticed mold/moss? Growing on the soil of most the garden (raised bed)...what should I do about this? For now and after the season is over and I'm preparing the soil for new planting? Thanks!
A week or two ago I started to have a powdery mildew problem with my squash and zucchini...so I've been spraying an organic copper antifungal spray...today I noticed mold/moss? Growing on the soil of most the garden (raised bed)...what should I do about this? For now and after the season is over and I'm preparing the soil for new planting? Thanks!
Your soil is heavy in organic matter. That is a two edged sword. It helps to soften hard soils and retain water. The mold, algae and chunks of bark tell me this
1. Either there is too much water in the soil or it is not draining properly.
2. The chunks of bark if it is throughout the soil and not just on top is still decomposing, so that will steal nitrogen and fungi will grow on the decaying matter.
If you have a choice back off on watering
If not try to cover the garden if heavy rain is in the forecast.
When you can try to improve soil drainage. Raise the bed higher add more drainage material. If you add coarse sand, a little won't be enough, you need to add about 15% by volume and mix it in well.
Leaves and bark on top as mulch o.k. they will get moldy. Unfinished decomposing organic matter in the soil will steal nitrogen, so you need to replace it.
1. Either there is too much water in the soil or it is not draining properly.
2. The chunks of bark if it is throughout the soil and not just on top is still decomposing, so that will steal nitrogen and fungi will grow on the decaying matter.
If you have a choice back off on watering
If not try to cover the garden if heavy rain is in the forecast.
When you can try to improve soil drainage. Raise the bed higher add more drainage material. If you add coarse sand, a little won't be enough, you need to add about 15% by volume and mix it in well.
Leaves and bark on top as mulch o.k. they will get moldy. Unfinished decomposing organic matter in the soil will steal nitrogen, so you need to replace it.
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meshmouse
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samscordato -
As others have said, black ends of tomatoes is 'blossom end rot' and the cure is calcium, which I believe allows the cells to absorb water and nutrients, thus solving the problem. There are many courses of action that in the long term will provide calcium to your soil (crushed eggshells or sea shells in compost or soil, but as I understand it, those takes a year or more to be plant available).
Now, take these following thoughts with due caution. I have no direct experience with them. I have heard of two ways to introduce calcium foliarly (sprayed on the leaves) that supposedly have a more direct affect.
One, is to take a few eggshells (some people microwave them first, some boil them, some do neither), then crush them up reasonably fine and put them in a small jar and generously cover them with plain old white vinegar. They will bubble as they dissolve. Once or twice a day, give them a stir. After a few days, they will be mostly dissolved. You can tell when you have dissolved as much calcium as the vinegar is capable, when you dip a finger and to your tongue, it is no longer acidic. Some people add a tiny bit of baking soda (also anti-fungal), just to be sure they won't 'acid-burn' their plants. Strain thru a coffee filter and use diluted.
The other way that I've heard of to introduce calcium foliarly is to get some 'Pickle Crisp' and dissolve it in water. Pickle Crisp is calcium chloride (food grade, as compared to the 'pet friendly ice melt' product) and is available where ever you find canning jars and supplies (Ball/Mason, etc.)
What the proper dillutions are, I don't know. Will it do more harm than good, I don't know. These are just things that I have come up with in my research. Tread carefully, if at all.
I'm very interested to find out what some of our more experienced members might have to say about these approaches to adding calcium foliarly. Are there any other ways?
Oh, and peat moss is a much less expensive additive than potting soil to bring humus to your soil.
Good luck,
meshmouse
As others have said, black ends of tomatoes is 'blossom end rot' and the cure is calcium, which I believe allows the cells to absorb water and nutrients, thus solving the problem. There are many courses of action that in the long term will provide calcium to your soil (crushed eggshells or sea shells in compost or soil, but as I understand it, those takes a year or more to be plant available).
Now, take these following thoughts with due caution. I have no direct experience with them. I have heard of two ways to introduce calcium foliarly (sprayed on the leaves) that supposedly have a more direct affect.
One, is to take a few eggshells (some people microwave them first, some boil them, some do neither), then crush them up reasonably fine and put them in a small jar and generously cover them with plain old white vinegar. They will bubble as they dissolve. Once or twice a day, give them a stir. After a few days, they will be mostly dissolved. You can tell when you have dissolved as much calcium as the vinegar is capable, when you dip a finger and to your tongue, it is no longer acidic. Some people add a tiny bit of baking soda (also anti-fungal), just to be sure they won't 'acid-burn' their plants. Strain thru a coffee filter and use diluted.
The other way that I've heard of to introduce calcium foliarly is to get some 'Pickle Crisp' and dissolve it in water. Pickle Crisp is calcium chloride (food grade, as compared to the 'pet friendly ice melt' product) and is available where ever you find canning jars and supplies (Ball/Mason, etc.)
What the proper dillutions are, I don't know. Will it do more harm than good, I don't know. These are just things that I have come up with in my research. Tread carefully, if at all.
I'm very interested to find out what some of our more experienced members might have to say about these approaches to adding calcium foliarly. Are there any other ways?
Oh, and peat moss is a much less expensive additive than potting soil to bring humus to your soil.
Good luck,
meshmouse
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SFloridaGardener
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Thanks for the input! When I cultivate the soil after this season I will add some sand. I have cut back on watering but we are still getting frequent daytime showers here which keeps everything wet. Is it okay to add mulch on top of this soil? The pea plants and tomatoes don't seem to be getting enough water on hot dry days so I was reading mulching could help...Thanks again!
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rainbowgardener
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Read applestar'so post on previous page . Blossom end rot is about calcium uptake . Very rarely has anything to do with calcium deficiency in the soil . More likely is related to irregular watering , cultivating the soil too close to the plant , damaging the roots , or soils too high in soluble salts, as with excessive synthetic fertilizer use.
If it is anything like tipburn on lettuce which is a problem also with calcium, it may be that the longer days of summer cause the plants to grow faster than they can take up water and nutrients.
Variety will probably matter, I think a few people always get BER and I hardly have any on my heat resistant tomatoes which is mostly what I do grow.
Planting in self watering containers though, can really cut down on uneven watering issues. A five gallon reservoir is good. A tomato in full production on a hot day can drink up to 4 gallon of water a day.
Variety will probably matter, I think a few people always get BER and I hardly have any on my heat resistant tomatoes which is mostly what I do grow.
Planting in self watering containers though, can really cut down on uneven watering issues. A five gallon reservoir is good. A tomato in full production on a hot day can drink up to 4 gallon of water a day.