River
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Joined: Wed Aug 20, 2014 10:18 pm
Location: Mobile

Figured how to build up the soil

One of my 20x20 plots holds moisture. I added horse manure and added lime after I did a soil test from auburn. I also planted a cover crop of Crimson clover over the late fall and winter. I just mowed it down on Tuesday .

Last week we received over 3 inches of rain. The other plot close by was dry enough to till yesterday. I tilled the cover crop under last month. Plus I already had a few rows of tomatoes planted. I just needed to form new rows. Then I checked the other plot because I wanted to turn under the cover crop so it would breakdown.
So I checked part of it and it was okay to till not as dry as I would have liked it, but we are expecting rain for the next 4 days. I got to a point where some areas were muddy.

I plan on adding a lot of compost in the fall. First I have to build them now, but in the meantime I need to do something now. I am going to plant okra in a few rows and legumes (southern peas) in the majority of the plot. I have a mountain of shredded leaves. I have one large pile of compost from last summer which I could concentrate where I am planting the okra.

I have a mountain of shredded leaves for building compost piles. I figured I could add a bunch plus a few bags of soil conditioner ( fine bark) to help build it up now. I wouldnt think the carbon would be a problem for the legumes.

Can u think of a better way or do u think this might help?
I planned on adding a lot of compost in the fall regardless.
I have 2 choices I can get 8-10 yards of fine pine bark and build it up to 6-8 inches and plant in that. It will drain well, but I may have to water on between the rain. The cost is going to be the issue. Plus I was told a bed in a pick up holds 2 scoops which they said a half yard so between my utility trailer and truck it would be a lot of trips and $$ 16-17.50 per scoop. I am going to see if I can find a better source which is a long shot, or the other alternative costs very little but I would have to wait till next year.

I could just collect leaves and stack them 3 feet or better and just keep them wet
Add some lime due to our acid soil and just wait till next spring

Like a giant raised bed

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jal_ut
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Posts: 7447
Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:20 pm
Location: Northern Utah Zone 5

I would not plant in pine bark. Ok to add some to the compost piles, but it doesn't go on the garden till it is composted.
IMO

It is good to add finished compost, and use leaves as a mulch, but don't overdo it.

If you till, the finished compost can be added and tilled in before planting.
In the fall organic matter can be added then the plot tilled before winter sets in.
Come Spring, you can just go plant the early things, and till very shallowly to get the weeds for the later plantings.

Try a few things, and keep a notebook, so you can check your notes next year and see what worked well....... and
take a picture here and there. Thanks for posting. Let us know how it goes?

Have a great garden.

imafan26
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Joined: Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:32 am
Location: Hawaii, zone 12a 587 ft elev.

Adding finished compost is ok, but adding leaves and uncomposted material may be a problem. Mulch material on the surface are fine but tilled in, they suck up nitrogen while they are composting.

If you have clay soil, working it wet will ruin the soil structure and you will end up with coarse clods when it dries.

If your plot is not sited in a low spot , and the soil has good drainage it might just be better to wait until it is dry enough to work.

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Gary350
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Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2009 1:59 pm
Location: TN. 50 years of gardening experience.

One year I mulched my garden with several things to keep down weeds just for an experement. Every thing I tried was NOT composted and it sucked the nitrogen from the soil and all my plants turned yellow. I forget the technical name for this sickness but once the plants become too yellow it is beyond repair no matter how much nitrogen or fertilizer you add plants die anyway. That year I lost 28 of my 30 tomato plants, had to replant beans, corn and several other things.

Best way to keep down weeds is 5 minutes twice a week hoe the tiny weeds they are easy to kill when they are 2" tall.

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ElizabethB
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Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2012 12:53 am
Location: Lafayette, LA

When I had my landscaping business I frequently had to deal with wet areas. I used a combination of French Drains and catch basins to move the excess water away from the planting area.

Another option is to use that area to plant bog loving ornamental plants and move your vegetable garden to a dryer area.

The level of wetness that you describe would require a large amount of amending. You basically need to build up the area to a point where the water retention is no longer a problem. That means extreme raised beds.

Using a drainage system to move the water would require a lot less effort. So would moving your garden to a dryer part of your property.

Good luck



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