Tomatoes are challenging to be grown in BC. You are probably growing in a pot.
First make sure you select the right cultivars. You want the early varieties that will mature in less than 70 days and you will need to start indoors or from transplants early. A lot of the tomatoes that Applestar has will probably work.
The best pot size is 18 -20 inches in diameter. Tomatoes have a lot of roots and you want enough soil mass so it does not dry out.
Peppers can go into smaller pots but since hot peppers can live for me for years, I prefer them in 5 gallon buckets.
Peppers are less demanding than tomatoes. I use either MG potting soil or my homemade peatlite with osmocote. I will need to supplement with additional tablespoon of vigoro fertilizer per pot per month and I also give them a tablespoon of osmocote when I repot them in about 6 months. If you are only going to keep peppers for one season then use a 4 gallon egg can. It is a deep pot and gives the roots more room to spread out.
In a pot, if you are using something like miracle grow potting soil, it already contains fertilizer for the first three months NPK= 0.21 - 0.11 - 0.16. The bag says six months but I live in a hot climate and slow release fertilizer generally lasts half as long. I would supplement every month with a couple of tablespoons of a balanced fast release fertilizer or at least one that has numbers under 15 ( I prefer under 10) with a lower nitrogen. Ideally you want an NPK ratio close to 1:2:2
[b]Any complete fertilizer will work, so don't get hung up on the numbers. If you are using fertilizer with higher numbers, use half as much. Instead of the numbers look at the ratio's NPK 1:1:1, 1:2:2, 1:0:1. 2:0:1
There are specific fertilizers for different types of plants, but anything that says it is for general purpose or garden vegetables will work. I use vigoro citrus and Avocado food because it fits the needs of most of my potted plants. It has low numbers under 10, micro nutrients, and slow release nitrogen.
I only have three kinds of fertilizer.
Sulfate of ammonia because nitrogen should be given to plants in divided doses and not all at once. Nitrogen is a limiting factor of growth and is important that it is available for seedlings to grow. It is also quickly lost through natural processes (the nitrogen cycle) so dividing the total requirement into 2 or 3 applications over the life of the plant or over the year for perennials is better. You want to avoid too much nitrogen for fruiting and blooming plants or they will produce more green and less flowers. My soil tests also indicate that all I need to add is nitrogen since my soil is alkaline in two plots (pH 7.4 and pH 47.
and pH 6.4 at another and the phosphorus, potassium, and calcium are all high or extremely high. I still get some phosphorus and potassium from the compost I add which is also alkaline at a pH of 7.8, but composts helps to buffer pH so it behaves more neutral. If I add manure, I only use composted steer manure as chicken manure will only make the pH worse.
I use citrus food (Vigoro 6-4-6) from home depot. The NPK is low but the nitrogen is slow release and it also contains micro nutrients. I do use MG potting soil for my tomatoes, but I also add a 1/2 cup of this fertilizer as a starter. I use this as a supplement for my 18 gallon tomato tubs every month. About 1-2 tablespoons. Most vegetables prefer slightly acidic conditions and this is an acidic fertilizer. I could probably use a little less because I have big tomato plants over 8 ft tall, they are very productive. If you want to grow anything alkaline like cabbages, or baby's breath then you either have to have alkaline soil or add lime six months before.
Slow release fertilizer. osmocote , nutricote and apex. I use these in my starter mixes for seedlings and transplants. I make my own soil with 50/50 peat moss and perlite. I also use slow release to feed my orchids. I mix about 1/3 cup in a 5 gallon bucket of peatlite.
I do occasionally use bulb food in pots for bulbs like lilies, onions, amaryllis, and glads.