Hi I'm installing a DIG drip irrigation system in my front yard. I found the below order of installation on a website. Does this look ok? And also, where in the order does the timer go?
1. Faucet
2. Backflow Preventer
3. Pressure Regulator
4. Filter
5. Tubing adapter
6. Tubing
Thanks!
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HonoluluGirl
- Senior Member
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 7:01 pm
- Location: Hawaii
faucet
anti siphon adapter
Timer ( If you are installing a faucet mounted timer you can omit this since the timer will have an antisiphon device built in, but just in case it fails it does not hurt to have the anti siphon adapter.)
In line filter ( if you have hard water or you want to fertilize through the sytem, a filter helps)
Pressure regulator
Female end adaptor
distribution tubing ( usually 1/2 inch line)
1/4 inch microtubing or 1/8 inch microtubing (depending on the size of your emitters)
assortment of connectors T, straight, goof plugs, end plugs for the main line or clamp. You will need connectors to fit the main line as well as the smaller connecting tubing. I use hose end plugs with caps, since I can open the cap to flush the system and because I have three different brands, the only way they are compatible is to have beginnings and ends.
If you are going to use standard sprinker heads or low pressure heads then you need the adaptor T's, risers and riser caps or regular sprinkler heads.
If you are connecting this to a standard sprinkler system or adapting and existing sprinkler to drip there are riser adapters to convert from pvc to drip.
If you use a multi function program timer and tie it into a manifold then you can run multiple zones.
When you zone the drip system remember you cannot run pressure compensating and non-pressure compensating emitters in the same zone.
Make sure you have enough pressure and you do not exceed your gallons per hour. If you add one too many emitters everything stops and you will need to take some emitters out. (Been there, done that)
This is important for the anti siphon device to work properly it should be higher than your highest head. You may have to lift the faucet higher or make sure your highest riser is below the antisiphon device.
Draw out a plant before you put the system together so you will know where your main lines will run and how many emitters, soakers, and/or sprinklers you will need. You will also be able to count how many T's and elbows you need.
You will always need more goof plugs, straight connectors on hand to fix mistakes and tweak the system.
The crimping tool is easier on your hands than the hole punch if you need to make a lot of holes.
Since I sometimes do not have enough pressure to run my entire system at the same time, and because I want to work in an area while I water the others, I have in line valves installed. It takes planning to make sure the side lines to individual areas get in line valves so that I can isolate the middle and still water the beginning and end. If I place the inline valves on the main line. everything distal to that valve gets shut off even if I don't want it that way. (Been there, done that too)
I keep my lines on the surface. It will last longer buried, but mine lasted twenty years before the main lines became so brittle I had to replace them. With the lines on the surface, I still hit them with the pick but less so than if they were buried. At least they are easier to repair than pvc tubing. I can adjust the position of the emitters and main lines a little bit and when I have to work on the bed I can pull them off the bed completely so I don't hit them with my pick.
I had an irrigation system installed by a landscaping company. I have two zones for standard irrigation (grass and shrubs) and 4 zones connected to my drip system. I have had to change the timer once, and since I can no longer get parts for my richdel manifold. I am replacing the irrigation control valves as they start to leak. (I hate pvc and glue).
If you have a landscaper install a manifold, tell them to put the manifold in an out of the way place by the fence where you don't have to pass or trip over it everyday, but still be easily accessible and you don't want it near the house, because when it leaks, it is better if it leaks into the yard not your foundation. (I learned this after I had the first system installed, the next time, I specified that the manifold should not be in the path around the house or next to the foundation the landscaper thought that was a smarter thing to do too. If you let them choose, they will invariably choose a spot close to the house and walkway. The manifold does need to be accessible and visible because you have to check to make sure it isn't leaking regularly.
anti siphon adapter
Timer ( If you are installing a faucet mounted timer you can omit this since the timer will have an antisiphon device built in, but just in case it fails it does not hurt to have the anti siphon adapter.)
In line filter ( if you have hard water or you want to fertilize through the sytem, a filter helps)
Pressure regulator
Female end adaptor
distribution tubing ( usually 1/2 inch line)
1/4 inch microtubing or 1/8 inch microtubing (depending on the size of your emitters)
assortment of connectors T, straight, goof plugs, end plugs for the main line or clamp. You will need connectors to fit the main line as well as the smaller connecting tubing. I use hose end plugs with caps, since I can open the cap to flush the system and because I have three different brands, the only way they are compatible is to have beginnings and ends.
If you are going to use standard sprinker heads or low pressure heads then you need the adaptor T's, risers and riser caps or regular sprinkler heads.
If you are connecting this to a standard sprinkler system or adapting and existing sprinkler to drip there are riser adapters to convert from pvc to drip.
If you use a multi function program timer and tie it into a manifold then you can run multiple zones.
When you zone the drip system remember you cannot run pressure compensating and non-pressure compensating emitters in the same zone.
Make sure you have enough pressure and you do not exceed your gallons per hour. If you add one too many emitters everything stops and you will need to take some emitters out. (Been there, done that)
This is important for the anti siphon device to work properly it should be higher than your highest head. You may have to lift the faucet higher or make sure your highest riser is below the antisiphon device.
Draw out a plant before you put the system together so you will know where your main lines will run and how many emitters, soakers, and/or sprinklers you will need. You will also be able to count how many T's and elbows you need.
You will always need more goof plugs, straight connectors on hand to fix mistakes and tweak the system.
The crimping tool is easier on your hands than the hole punch if you need to make a lot of holes.
Since I sometimes do not have enough pressure to run my entire system at the same time, and because I want to work in an area while I water the others, I have in line valves installed. It takes planning to make sure the side lines to individual areas get in line valves so that I can isolate the middle and still water the beginning and end. If I place the inline valves on the main line. everything distal to that valve gets shut off even if I don't want it that way. (Been there, done that too)
I keep my lines on the surface. It will last longer buried, but mine lasted twenty years before the main lines became so brittle I had to replace them. With the lines on the surface, I still hit them with the pick but less so than if they were buried. At least they are easier to repair than pvc tubing. I can adjust the position of the emitters and main lines a little bit and when I have to work on the bed I can pull them off the bed completely so I don't hit them with my pick.
I had an irrigation system installed by a landscaping company. I have two zones for standard irrigation (grass and shrubs) and 4 zones connected to my drip system. I have had to change the timer once, and since I can no longer get parts for my richdel manifold. I am replacing the irrigation control valves as they start to leak. (I hate pvc and glue).
If you have a landscaper install a manifold, tell them to put the manifold in an out of the way place by the fence where you don't have to pass or trip over it everyday, but still be easily accessible and you don't want it near the house, because when it leaks, it is better if it leaks into the yard not your foundation. (I learned this after I had the first system installed, the next time, I specified that the manifold should not be in the path around the house or next to the foundation the landscaper thought that was a smarter thing to do too. If you let them choose, they will invariably choose a spot close to the house and walkway. The manifold does need to be accessible and visible because you have to check to make sure it isn't leaking regularly.
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HonoluluGirl
- Senior Member
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 7:01 pm
- Location: Hawaii
You could put the pressure regulator before the filter if you like. I have very low water pressure which is why I have a drip system in the first place and I have a long system so I have removed my regulator altogether. My water pressure sucks it is only 38 psi from the street. Most homes are supposed to get at least 55 psi. Pressure regulators reduce the pressure to 25 psi or 30 psi depending on the regulator. If you are connecting to a standard sprinkler manifold you will not need the anti siphon or pressure regulator since the irrigation valve will have an antisiphon built in and the pressure can be controlled with the valve. The main reason to have the pressure regulator is to keep the pressure from breaking the tubing.
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HonoluluGirl
- Senior Member
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 7:01 pm
- Location: Hawaii
Thanks Imafan. We have good water pressure here. In fact, it might be too high. I haven't measured it, but it's more than enough for the irrigation in the back yard. Now I'm doing the irrigation on the front yard, and I lost the instructions from my original DIG kit. I didn't buy the kit again. I bought all the pieces separately this time, so I don't have instructions. That's why I posted my question.
This link shows how to hook up a faucet timer and filter to a drip line. This one puts the anti siphon adapter after the timer.
https://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/DIY-D ... #div=step2
https://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/DIY-D ... #div=step2
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HonoluluGirl
- Senior Member
- Posts: 129
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 7:01 pm
- Location: Hawaii